Hi, all. Apologies if this question has been asked before. At the "Nation's Gun Show" next weekend, I'm hoping to buy a .38 Special K frame, 4" barrel. Are there any models that I should avoid? I'm not talking about an occasional bad experience, but some that, by reputation, were dogs. For example, If I end up going with Model 10 or Model 15, is there a "dash" number that I should avoid? Thanks.

Hi, all. Apologies if this question has been asked before. At the "Nation's Gun Show" next weekend, I'm hoping to buy a .38 Special K frame, 4" barrel. Are there any models that I should avoid? I'm not talking about an occasional bad experience, but some that, by reputation, were dogs. For example, If I end up going with Model 10 or Model 15, is there a "dash" number that I should avoid? Thanks.

I personally won't have a Smith & Wesson with a lock. Other than that I'd say they're all good. Some folks prefer the "pinned" barrel so a pre-1981 revolver with a pinned barrel might be the best choice of all.

It's like shopping for a used car, I think. The condition of the one you're looking at is far more important than that particular model's reputation. That said, I've never heard of one or another S&W model having a bad reputation. There may be anecdotal stories saying such-and-such is a lousy gun (for instance, I had a Model 59 and absolutely hated it!), but these are individual preferences and don't establish a pattern.

As to the lock, a lot of people refuse them because of the risk of breakage tying up the gun. Apparently it does happen now and then, usually caused by a broken spring. If I were shopping for a defensive weapon, I wouldn't have the lock for that reason. Ditto, for a gun used in competitive shooting or on an expensive hunting trip. OTOH a lock wouldn't bother me on a gun meant strictly for "fun" shooting.

Some people prefer the pinned barrels; some prefer prewar guns on the theory that the fitters were true craftsmen in those days.

Modulo the lock issue and your intended purpose for the gun, mechanical/cosmetic condition is everything.

I hope not. I had a 10-5 that really surprised me with its accuracy, so I bought a 15-3 and later traded it for a 15-2. And now I bought a 14 no dash to see how accurate they can shoot with a 6" barrel. I've been pleased with the few that I have had so far.

Don't limit your search to 38 specials, you should also look at the M-19s, 66's, etc.

If you plan on shooting it alot, avoid the Model 12 airwieght. If you plan on carrying it alot, seek out a Model 12.

Nobody ever went far wrong buying a Model 10.

The thing is, if the best K-Frame you see is an M13, buy that instead. It will fire .357 Magnums as well as .38 Specials. Buy the one that is in the best condition for the best price, is the point.

You might also think about K-Frames with adjustable sights, if that feature appeals to you.

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You're shy a few manners.

What everyone's already said, it's a matter of individual condition of the example.
To me given good condition, I can't recall ever shaking hands with a K frame I didn't enjoy the experience with, in .22 to .357?

MX-5, I'd say anything with a model number is fine. Some of the pre-models may not be a good fit for someone new to S&Ws. Other than that, I don't know of any caveats.

On a personal note, I won't buy one with the internal lock. But that's just me.


Sgt 127, the Model 12 will handle pretty much anything you throw at it. Maybe not competition levels, but I'm guessing from the OP's questions that he's not looking for a comp gun.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/eve/for...3481091842/p/1

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Hoot Gibson

MX-5,

Don't fall into that Gun Show loophole while you're there.

Shoot safe and join the NRA. John

I bought a 64-3 recently from Thiokol on this forum, who was a pleasure to deal with, btw, and I love it. Cost to me was $475 to Thiokol, $61 to FedEx, and $20 to local ffl. Worth every penny, gun was in perfect condition.

I recommend getting a .38 revolver if that's what you're actually going to be using in it. Avoid thinking that (1) you could use a .357 someday so you want the flexibility or (2) that it's going to have higher resale value later because of that flexibility. Over time, a cylinder chambered for .357 will lose metal around the end of a .38 cartridge because of the hot gas that's spreading out at that point, resulting in premature wear. So your gun could actually lose value over time, if you really use it for .38's and shoot it a lot. If you don't really want the flash-bang-and-recoil of a .357, don't get a gun chambered for .357. There are commercially available cartridges out there, besides, in .38 special +P which rival the lower end of the .357 world ballistically, anyway.

Lots of folks make a religion out of having pinned barrels and recessed cylinders and no internal locks. I have preferences, but don't make a religion of it. A pinned barrel is not going to rotate over time as a screwed-in barrel can, which will throw the front sight out of alignment; a recessed cylinder will contain the pressure better; and the lock cam can be easily removed if you don't like it (though that's a lot harder now on new guns - I believe the factory's quietly solved that problem). Also forged steel parts rather than molded metal parts will hold up to stress better. I've never had any problem with any of that stuff on a S&W revolver of any description (though I've had adventures with a couple of Rugers).

Good luck in your search. That Dulles Center can be such a zoo. Plan to spend Friday afternoon and evening there, at least. Check with Tom Drinkwater, probably on the right in the rear of the hall - he's likely to know who's got what, if he doesn't have what you want himself. He goes by "T & R FIREARMS & SHOOTING SUPPLIES". Big guy, graying hair and beard.

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Not legal advice/solicitation

OMG. Not again.

I doubt you would wear one out either. But, for me anyway, the steel frame is alot more pleasant to shoot alot of rounds out of, especially if you are shooting +P. If weight is not an issue, I would go for the steel frame.

Only badly worn out ones. That is, if you could actually find one that has been worn out.

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Sceva
OGCA SWCA NRA

As one other poster mentioned, a Mod 12 is not a favortie K frame to shoot. I've never liked airweight guns. I own two but seldom shoot 'em, that's why I don't like 'em.
As has been said, look for a "low mileage" revolver and it would be hard to buy a bad S&W K frame!

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SWCA #2420

There are many factual errors in this post. Enough that I would ignore it completely.

On that note, don't be scared away by finish wear. My M10-5 is the ugliest handgun in my safe, but it's also the most accurate and has the best trigger.

I'd be interested to know what they are, and why they're in error. I don't pretend to be the ultimate authority, but I got all of that from people whom I consider pretty authoritative. But I'm always open to learning new and better information, so please enlighten me. By email if you prefer.

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Not legal advice/solicitation

Yes, watch out for anything that looks modified. Especially British Victories that may have been rechambered from 38 S&W to 38 Special.

I'm not saying all modification are necessarily bad, but if your just starting out shy away from anything that does not look factory stock.

Look out for screws with damaged slots because that may indicate less than qualified modifications have been made. Factory grips are usually preferred. I think there is a page on what to look for in a used S&W revolver in the FAQ section. I'd print that out and read it a couple times.

Hi, all. Thanks for all of your comments. I printed and read each one (I'll take to the show with me). I kept my original question short, but I suppose that I should have put in a bit more detail. I'll try to respond to all points made, and apologize if I've missed any.

I already own an S&W Model 36 (1 7/8" barrell), and used to own a Combat Masterpiece. I also now own a Beretta .380 (84FS) and 9mm (92FS). I've fired many hundreds of rounds of different ammo with the Model 36, but even with Pachmayr grips, I get blisters. So I figured that I would get a K frame. Since I wasn't planning to go moose hunting, I also figured that I didn't need to get a .357. That's why I was leaning towards something like a Model 10 or a Model 15 in .38 Special.

I'm not a fan of gun locks, but I understood that in the blue steel guns there was less of a risk of malfunction. All things being equal, I'd get a gun without a lock. Just on principle.

I never read a bad thing about the Model 10. At the last show I went to, two vendors were selling Model 10s for $300. I think that one was a 10-7, and the other a 10-8. Other than the fact that one was clean and one was dirty, both had good timing, wood grips, and showed little wear. I settled on the clean one (I think it was the 10-7), but the vendor would only take cash which I didn't have. So I didn't buy either. Is a 10-7 "better" than a 10-8? From the comments made, it looks like it doesn't make much of a difference. I'll assume that all Model 10's are worth consideration. But, as mentioned, it's like buying a used car, so I have to be on the look-out for someone who might be trying to take unfair advantage.

Yes, I plan on shooting a lot (I go to the range every weekend if I can). So I agree that an Airweight would not be a good choice, at least not a good choice for me.

I agree that the Model 15s are deadly accurate. I think mine had a four inch barrell. I was astonished how well it shot. Coming from the Model 36 with a 1 7/8" barrell, I'm inclined to move up the ladder gradually, so I probably won't be getting a six inch barrel. Also, I really like the look of the K frames with 4" barrels.

Thanks for mentioning adjustable sights. I wasn't even thinking in that direction. Beyond that, I wasn't looking for anything sophisticated. A "pinned" barrel would be wasted on someone like me. Just a bread and butter, reliable, enjoyable blue steel k frame.

Elsewhere, I asked for comments regarding .38 Special only v. .357 that also fires .38 Special. I know that each side made good arguments. My preference is for simplicity, so I'll probably get one that only fires .38 Special. Ditto on the +P. The regular powered load is enough for me. And since I hope to keep forever, resale value is not an issue for me.

That should about do it for me now. For those interested, the UPS man just returned to me my .380 Beretta. I'll open the box later, and post the results in the Lounge where I started a thread about how this gun fell apart during field stripping. Later.

Always, always take cash money to a gun show.

Hi, arfmel. Yes, always take cash. I have been doing so. Then I went to a gun show a few months ago and ran into a vendor in a McDonald's. "Didn't I see you at the last show," I asked. "Yup," he said. "How's business," I asked. "Terrible," he said. When I visited his table, he had a sign saying that he now took credit cards (he didn't earlier). When I didn't have enough cash to buy a gun from another vendor, the other vendor took my credit card for part payment. So I figured that I wouldn't need all the cash next time. Wrong! I already have on my to-do list emptying my checking account sometime this week. Later.

Of course, the K model 38s of all variations were great guns. Whether one should be avoided or not is a matter of the use to which it will be put. For example, I understand that some agency runs of Model 10 have different height front sights if specified for a different load than the 158 grain.

I have never put it next to a micrometer, but have been told by someone I trust that the US Marshal Model 10s were set up for the 110 grain +P+ Treasury Load. Thus, they may shoot to a different point of impact with 158 grain +P LHP loads.

Other than that, I cannot think of any bad ones. It is my personal preference to have at least a 3 inch barrel for self defense in a K frame so you get full length case ejection, but if it is bought for collector purposes or whatever, then even that is not important. That said, I prefer the versions that have the left hand ejector rod threads, and a couple of the later improvements if it is to be a shooter or carry gun.

Hi, Shawn. Thanks. Good points. I think that I read in a magazine somewhere within the past year that different agencies set their .38s up differently, as you mentioned. Also, with the smallish ejector on the Model 36, I've grown accustomed to shaking the gun a bit to dislodge the cases. It'll be a pleasant change not to have to do so with a K frame. Anyway, I made my first visit to the ATM today in preparation for Saturday's purchase. I'm getting kind of impatient, so I may take Friday off to go to the show. Maybe not quite the same as sneaking out to go to a ball game, but just as enjoyable. Thanks again.

I don't want to hijack this thread but I've never heard or seen this before. You can get a build up of residue in the chamber of a .357 using .38s. This can then cause increased pressure when firing .357s. The solution is to clean the chambers out well with a brush.