Hello everyone,

I checked the cleaning links in the FAQ and did some quick searches, but didn't see anything that directly addresses my questions:

I just purchased a new in box S&W Model 27 6 1/2 inch barrel nickel revolver. I am getting ready to take it to the range soon.

Before I do, I'd like to know if there are any special precautions I should take when cleaning a weapon with a nickel finish.

Will my standard cleaning and lubricating regimen be compatible with this finish? I generally use Hoppes #9 for cleaning, then I flush the weapon with Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber, which completely washes all traces of oil/lubricant/contaminants off of the weapon. Then, I lubricate with either Slip 2000 or Break Free CLP. Are all these chemicals compatible with a nickle finish?

Also - will brass brushes harm or scratch the finish?

Finally - although I seldom find it necessary - is the use of Copper Cutter OK for use on a nickel finish?

In general, is a nickel finish softer than a stainless steel finish?

Thanks for any advice!

Hello everyone,

I checked the cleaning links in the FAQ and did some quick searches, but didn't see anything that directly addresses my questions:

I just purchased a new in box S&W Model 27 6 1/2 inch barrel nickel revolver. I am getting ready to take it to the range soon.

Before I do, I'd like to know if there are any special precautions I should take when cleaning a weapon with a nickel finish.

Will my standard cleaning and lubricating regimen be compatible with this finish? I generally use Hoppes #9 for cleaning, then I flush the weapon with Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber, which completely washes all traces of oil/lubricant/contaminants off of the weapon. Then, I lubricate with either Slip 2000 or Break Free CLP. Are all these chemicals compatible with a nickle finish?

Also - will brass brushes harm or scratch the finish?

Finally - although I seldom find it necessary - is the use of Copper Cutter OK for use on a nickel finish?

In general, is a nickel finish softer than a stainless steel finish?

Thanks for any advice!

Is this a joke question ?

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NRA Instructor

JohnK-

OK, OK, I've obviously demonstrated extreme ignorance by asking these questions...This is my first nickel weapon. I have several other handguns and so far, the method of cleaning/lubing mentioned above has been working fine for me.

I take it what I described above is completely inappropriate for a nickel-finish? What should I use? Sorry for the dumb questions...

I offer you my sincere apologies.

I really did think it was in fun.

Hoppe's, contains ammonia, which can get "under" a pit, or defect, nickel plating, and destroy it.

The plating is relatively soft, and brass brushes should not be used on the external finish at all. Only bore, and chambers.

Breakfree CLP, will not harm the finish, and is a good all around cleaner,lubricant, and protectant

I don't currently own a nickel finished gun, but if I did, I'd clean it with Breakfree, dry, and apply Renaissance wax, (external finish) to protect it.

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NRA Instructor

Not familiar with Copper Cutter, so I googled it.

It also contains ammonia, so it's a definite no-no.

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NRA Instructor

This is just one person's opinion: I don't mess with nickel guns; the finish is too fragile for me - they can easily lose condition unless you are extremely careful with them, and especially if you shoot them. Also, nickel does not wear as gracefully as blue. By that I mean a 98% blue gun looks a whole lot better than a 98% nickel gun.
However, I am sure there are those who can shoot a nickel gun for 40 years and it still looks 99.9%. That's great if they can..... Mike

JohnK -

Thanks much for this info! I am glad I asked first, no offense taken, just a bit embarrassed :-)

This is a really nice-looking weapon. Since it is my first nickel finish, I wanted to find out these answers before doing anything with it.

At least I asked first before doing anything :-)

I've not heard of Renaissance wax - is this a common gun cleaning/polishing product?

I recall a letter in American Rifleman years ago, the writer said he put a nickeled S&W cylinder in Hoppe's to soak, it removed the nicklel plating.

This is NOT a dumb question at all. Your cleaning procedure sounds ok to me. The main concern with nickel plating was that sometimes, a copper plate would be applied before the final nickel finish was applied in the old days.

From what I've read S&W has not used a copper base in many, many years. Some folks have said they NEVER used it.

Cleaners containing ammonia are used to attack the copper residue left in the barrel and cylinders when shooting jacketed bullets.

All this being said, if you'll read the directions on a bottle of Hoppe's No.9, it will tell you not to soak nickel plated firearms in Hoppe's. But cleaning in the normal manner with brass brushes won't hurt anything in my humble opinion.

I don't know what's in Birchwood Casey's Gun Scrubber. As long as it does not have any chlorinated compounds in it, you should be good to go.

Chlorinated compounds should absolutely NOT be used for cleaning guns, mainly stainless ones.

I don't know what Copper Cutter is so I don't have an opinion about it. I also do not know if a nickel finish is softer than ss. Others on this forum will be able to answer that one.

I just started using it myself. Popular on the forum. It's absolutely great.

It's a wax invented for museum stuff, PH neutral, and is great at protecting gun finishes (knives, what have you). It's available through Cabelas (I think), some other gun supply places, or art stores, etc. Some one will come along and give you current dealers.

Your Smith sounds like a beautiful revolver, wish I had one.

I've always admired nickel finishes, but was to chicken to get one as a "user" gun.

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NRA Instructor

I agree with JohnK on how to clean.

I have had nickeled S&W guns since the early 1980's and have never had a problem with the finish.

I clean the bore and cylinders with Break Free CLP and finish up with an oily patch.

It is normal for nickel plating to discolor some with use. Nickel is corrosion resistant but not corrosion proof and is chemically somewhat reactive with the salt present in human skin. This usually results in some yellowing especially around the backstrap. Most attempts to clean this result in a mess. Learn to accept some discoloration as indication of good, honest use.

Well, as the saying goes, when all else fails, read the directions :-)

Just as Texas Roots noted, Hoppes # 9 specifically says, "Do not soak nickel-plated firearms in No. 9. Wipe nickel surfaces dry after cleaning".

As JohnK pointed out, Copper Cutter also contains ammonia. This is really obvious when you smell the stuff. The directions say, "Always be sure to wipe stock and nickel surfaces dry after cleaning".

Neither Break-Free CLP, or Slip-2000 CLP make any reference to nickel surfaces.

I checked the directions for Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber. It says it contains Trichlorethylene. I'm no chemist - Texas Roots - is this considered a clorinated compound, that you said should be avoided? The directions say it works on all metal gun parts, and says it may "harm some plastics, wood finishes and painted surfaces". It really makes my other handguns look great, but in my experience, you have to be sure to wipe the weapon down completely with a fresh coat of oil, because this stuff strips off all traces of lubricant.

Just don't use Hoppies on Nickle. Mothers Mag Wax works well on Nickle to, heck car wax works good on it. Nickle will last if you take care of the gun, if you have a hard time in taking care of it - get a stainless or have it hard chromed.

I have a nickel 27-2 that has been either in my Dad's or my care since around 1980.

Nearly 20 years of that with Dad, he only wiped it down with WD-40... I KNOOOOOOW...

In my care, it has been cleaned with Breakfree CLP, which is great stuff, but getting pricey. The last year or so, I've gone to Rem Oil on everything since I shoot and/or clean at least every few months.

--jcd

I use Mothers to remove carbon/lead stain from the front of stainless steel and nickel cylinders. Renaissance wax is a good neutral was for blued, nickel, stainless or other metals as well as wood, ivory, or horn stocks. Some people I know put a layer of car wax on the front of the cylinder without buffing before shooting to make the carbon/lead deposits easier to remove; but I have not tried it myself.

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Revolver luvin' Mountaineer

I have a number of nickel revolvers and use flitz to clean and polish them. Nickel is a tougher finish than most folks think. IMHO it was first used to protect against black powder.

I remember reading that as well. Also, in one of P.O. Ackley's small yellow Questions and Answers books, he used to put out in the late 60's, there's a fellow writes in and tells about a S&W revolver he had wrapped up in a rag that was used for Hoppes and when he unwrapped it the nickle finish was destroyed. Another guy wrote in and asked what to use to clean up his nickle revolver, and P.O. Ackley told not to use Hoppes as it takes the cupro nickle off the inside just as well the outside. He suggested a soft rag with some gun oil.

btanchors, I should have said that the mixing of chlorinated compounds and ammonia compounds to clean 416 Stainless barrels can cause real problems.

At least one professional barrel maker/pistolsmith mentions this on his website.
You can check it out at www.schuemann.com under Barrel Cleaning.

My statement of caution to use a gun cleaner containing a chlorinated compound for gun cleaning was missleading. I should have stated that the MIXING of two cleaners, one containing a chlorinated compound and the other containing ammonia, should not be used to clean 416 stainless steel barrels or gun parts.

Further, I do not use cleaners, mixed or not mixed that contain cholrine or ammonia on any of my nickel plated S&W handguns. I do use Hoppe's to clean the bores of my non-nickel plated guns.

I've got a nickel Mod.13 that is older than me,well maybe not,but lots of years.I've used everything out there to clean it,store bought and home made,no damage to the finish yet. jwr

I seem to remember this as well although I did not remember in being in that magazine. In any event, I agree with the earlier post - use Break Free only and no metal brushes except in the bore and charge holes, and wipe off any excess from the surface.

It is my understanding that S&W began using electroless nickel plating in the 1970's and that form of nickel plating does not use a copper undercoat -- so using ammonia based cleaners should not be a problem for most guns made in the last 40-50 years.

I've been led to believe that the electrolytic nickel finish (which had been around since the late 1870s or so) may have had a copper undercoat, and that form of nickel plating was porous, and ammonia could seep through and oxidize the copper, thereby loosening the nickel layer. I've seen old S&W revolvers that look like they had acne, but don't know why they were that way.

Electroless nickel plating is more evenly applied, has a harder surface, will give a bit more without damage, etc. It costs a lot more but is much more corrosion resistant.

I don't think many gun makers use electrolytic (old, traditional) nickel plating any more -- and none of the ones using electroless nickel need copper undercoats/bases.

I spray mine down with WD40 after shooting, let it sit overnight.Next day Hoppe's #9 in the bore/cylinder brush, followed by patches with lighter fluid (no smoking allowed), then use Rem-Oil,Break Free, Ballistol to wipe it all down. If there is a spot that doen't want to clean, up a bit of Simichrome polish with a rag and gentle pressure. Nickle looks good as new. Just don't leave the Hoppe's #9 on the nickle long term.