I was out relaxing today and dusted/polished off many guns, at least four of which were J-frames. I swear each and every one are totally different to the feel when dry-firing in double action. I don't get the same with my K-frames, which to me are more consistent and smoother to the pull. What's the rule?

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COURAGE=Fear+Prayer

I was out relaxing today and dusted/polished off many guns, at least four of which were J-frames. I swear each and every one are totally different to the feel when dry-firing in double action. I don't get the same with my K-frames, which to me are more consistent and smoother to the pull. What's the rule?

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COURAGE=Fear+Prayer

Depends on the J-frame. The Model 40 (lemon squeezer) has a harder trigger pull because it is double action only and has a grip safety. The J's that have exposed hammers usually have lighter pulls. My model 36 which has been in the pockets of my family members since the early '70s has an awful DA trigger pull, becuase the lockwork is probably covered in dirt and worn down. K-frames and N-frames to me also have much smoother pulls.

Stacy,

Yup, it's cooling down enough to actually handle a gun without burning your fingers

J frames have smaller parts than K, L or N frame guns. Also, they use a coil mainspring, rather than a flat mainspring. A primer needs a certain amount of firing pin impact to reliably ignite, and if you have a lighter hammer (less momentum) you have to get more of the the striking energy from the mainspring.

IMHO, all this adds up to a different DA feel for J's versus the larger frames, generally more "springy" feeling and a little less smooth. I also tend to agree that there seems to be alot of variation in the feel of J frame triggers, particualrly when comparing steel guns to alloy frame guns.

FWIW, in my limited experience I find the L frame revolvers seem to have consistanly nice DA triggers - although the K & N frames ain't bad at all

Bill

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Bill

Thanks Bill, that does answer some questions. Hey, I'm planning to go out soon and sight in my 29-3 that I'm trying to get fine-tuned adjusted, the rear sight is out of alignment, but man those Spegel grips make it all the better, thanks again on that tip! I'm also going to find out once and for all (sand bag shoot) if my Ruger Speed Six has a cocked barrel or not. I'll let everyone know the outcome!

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Blackcloud2 I installed a Wolf spring kit for J frame's from Brownell's I put the 13 lb. spring in and cleaned out the old grease and oil and now it is very sweet and I've had no problem's as far as falure's to fire. I want to pick up another kit for my model 37 I'm hoping it will be as sweet as my model 60.

Sureshot, let me know how it goes, I have a 37 and a 60, I'd be interested

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I hav a few Js (36 & 37) with regular hammers, plus a 49 (shrouded hammer) and a 640. I feel the 640, maybe because of the different design of the hammer, has a much crisper, easier to roll through DA pull. The 49 has a larger hammer that seems to take more effort and the 36/37 seem to each be the same.

Maybe there is a basic difference, based on geometry, between regular hammers & closed frame hammers.

If your tactical need is for J-frames, never make the mistake of firing a well broken in Model 66 or Model 65 K-frame Smith.

Here's a small bit of info I found on the Hammerless Centennials from Grant Cunningham that I found very interesting..
They have a different sear geometry & no Firing Pin Block making them have better trigger pulls than other J Frames..
Grant Cunningham "Battle of The J Frames"

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MightShowYouHisSmith&Wesson

Good stuff Gary!