686 cylinder won't hinge out

[scwcharlie]

My cylinder has "locked-in" rather than "locked-up". Trigger pulls, cylinder turns, but won't release for loading. Will turning the gnarled rod (sorry, don't know proper name)somehow allow it to release?

[scwcharlie]

My cylinder has "locked-in" rather than "locked-up". Trigger pulls, cylinder turns, but won't release for loading. Will turning the gnarled rod (sorry, don't know proper name)somehow allow it to release?

[s&wchad]

Welcome to the forum.

Is it loaded?

[pred]

If the rod has loosened, It will prevent you from opening the cylinder,
I forget which threads it has, Left or right, But try turning it and see what happens!
PB

[qballwill]

the ejector rod probably worked loose. If you can tighten it, it will hopefully open.

[Rich S]

but if it is loaded please be careful and aware of muzzle direction while turning the ejector rod back in.
let us know when it is all safe then we can discuss more permanent fixes.
Be safe,
Rich

[scwcharlie]

The 686 is, of course, not loaded. I've attempted to turn it in both directions until it stops to no avail. I'd add more pressure to possibly turn it further but need to know whether the threads are right or left handed before I add more force. (Using a wooden wedge to turn it.)

[xrmattaz]

The ejector rod is loose, naturally.

[Sgt 127]

If you are SURE its unloaded (just a disclaimer, no offense) follow along. Take a tough piece of cloth, denim, something along those lines, feed it around the extractor rod, like you would for a shoe-shine rag. Then manipulate the hammer slightly back until the bolt clears the cylinder and it spins freely. Then while holding the cloth tight, use it to hold the rod while you turn the cylinder by hand.

Three hands are useful at this point. Option 2 is to jam a chopstick or other soft wood inbetween the knurled end of the rod and the shroud, then repeat the hammer thing and tighten the rod by turning the cylinder...

(That make sense?)

[scwcharlie]

Originally posted by Sgt 127:
If you are SURE its unloaded (just a disclaimer, no offense) follow along. Take a tough piece of cloth, denim, something along those lines, feed it around the extractor rod, like you would for a shoe-shine rag. Then manipulate the hammer slightly back until the bolt clears the cylinder and it spins freely. Then while holding the cloth tight, use it to hold the rod while you turn the cylinder by hand.

Three hands are useful at this point. Option 2 is to jam a chopstick or other soft wood inbetween the knurled end of the rod and the shroud, then repeat the hammer thing and tighten the rod by turning the cylinder...

(That make sense?)

THANK YOU!!!!!
Three hands or not, it worked. Used the "wedge",turned the cylinder far enough to allow opening of the cylinder. Gripped the knurled end and LH tightened the shaft.
Thank you very much.
Stay safe,

Charlie

[Rich S]

now unscrew it all the way out and put some blue (low strength easy to disassemble) locktite on the threads and reassemble it. (don't use red high strength threadlocker as it will permanently glue it in.) it is just inherent in machinery that once in a while certian threads will walk out under certian vibration just a bit of locktite will keep you perking along for about ever.
Regards,
Rich

[scwcharlie]

Suggested elsewhere on this forum, though not in this thread, I believe "fingernail hardener" was suggested for the same purpose as the lower strength locktite. Would that stuff cause any problems now/later?

[s&wchad]

You don't need to use any sealant or adhesive on the threads (I suggest you don't). Finger tightening isn't adequate, but don't use pliers on the ejector rod or you'll bugger it up. There's a tool available, but a drill chuck works fine. Load the cylinder with fired cases so you don't damage the extractor or the guide pins when you torque it. Snug it up, but keep in mind it's not a lug nut. Now that you know they can come loose, you'll routinely check it.

S&W cylinders rotate counter-clockwise. Around 1960, they changed the direction of the ejector rod threads so the rotation of the cylinder tightens the rod (left hand thread). Guns without a shrouded ejector are easier to get open when this happens, because you can get your fingers on the rod. My trick for shrouded guns (that are unloaded) is to press a pencil eraser against the rod and pull the trigger half a dozen times.