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S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors WITH Model Numbers


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  #1  
Old 09-05-2008, 09:47 PM
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Gatofeo Gatofeo is offline
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Bought an S&W Model 10-5 with 4" tapered barrel at Cabela's in Salt Lake City two weeks ago. Nickel plated beauty in .38 Special. Like new.

Serial number C711XXX on butt. When was this made?
I paid $299. Looked a little worn but after I cleaned it up I realized that much of its "wear" was just grime. Carefully scrubbed (with a nylon brush) old carbon off the cylinder and around the frame and barrel and it shone like a new dime!
Not one pit or blemish in the barrel or chambers. The nickel plating is almost flawless except for some very tiny, almost imperceptibly fine scratches.
Locks up tighter than a wine cork. Single action breaks at about 3-1/2 pounds. Double action is smooth and easy, but I don't have a means to measure it's weight of pull.
Wooden grips with silvery S&W medallion are not numbered. They don't have the diamond, but have a small checkered area in the grip that kinda follows its contours.
Are these the right grips for this revolver, or have they been replaced with a newer version?

Fired it for the first time last week: 25 yards off a benchrest, with Sight Black to cut the glare on the bright sights:
My reloads with a 160 gr. lead SWC over 3.2 grs. Bullseye - 4 to 5 inch groups.
Winchester 130 gr. FMJ of recent manufacture: 4 to 6 inch groups.
Sellier & Bellot 148 gr. wadcutter: 4 to 5 inch groups.
I began to believe I had a lemon, especially after the wadcutter loads wouldn't shoot worth a hoot.
Then I fired some older, el-cheapo CCI Blazer, aluminum-cased ammo with 158 gr. lead roundnose.
Six rounds into 1-1/2 to 2 inches, each time!
I'm sure the ol' girl can shoot tighter, but my 53-year-old eyes can't see better.

I'm wondering if the bullet needs to be seated a little further out, for better accuracy.
Each gun is an individual, so this revolver may require bullets closer to the forcing cone.
Sorry I have no photo. It's late and I'm tired.
Love this old gun. A real beauty and I believe I got a good price on it for $318 (after taxes added).
Did I?
My guess is that it dates to the early 1960s. What say you?
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  #2  
Old 09-05-2008, 09:47 PM
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Gatofeo Gatofeo is offline
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Model 10 nickel plated - When made? Model 10 nickel plated - When made? Model 10 nickel plated - When made? Model 10 nickel plated - When made? Model 10 nickel plated - When made?  
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Bought an S&W Model 10-5 with 4" tapered barrel at Cabela's in Salt Lake City two weeks ago. Nickel plated beauty in .38 Special. Like new.

Serial number C711XXX on butt. When was this made?
I paid $299. Looked a little worn but after I cleaned it up I realized that much of its "wear" was just grime. Carefully scrubbed (with a nylon brush) old carbon off the cylinder and around the frame and barrel and it shone like a new dime!
Not one pit or blemish in the barrel or chambers. The nickel plating is almost flawless except for some very tiny, almost imperceptibly fine scratches.
Locks up tighter than a wine cork. Single action breaks at about 3-1/2 pounds. Double action is smooth and easy, but I don't have a means to measure it's weight of pull.
Wooden grips with silvery S&W medallion are not numbered. They don't have the diamond, but have a small checkered area in the grip that kinda follows its contours.
Are these the right grips for this revolver, or have they been replaced with a newer version?

Fired it for the first time last week: 25 yards off a benchrest, with Sight Black to cut the glare on the bright sights:
My reloads with a 160 gr. lead SWC over 3.2 grs. Bullseye - 4 to 5 inch groups.
Winchester 130 gr. FMJ of recent manufacture: 4 to 6 inch groups.
Sellier & Bellot 148 gr. wadcutter: 4 to 5 inch groups.
I began to believe I had a lemon, especially after the wadcutter loads wouldn't shoot worth a hoot.
Then I fired some older, el-cheapo CCI Blazer, aluminum-cased ammo with 158 gr. lead roundnose.
Six rounds into 1-1/2 to 2 inches, each time!
I'm sure the ol' girl can shoot tighter, but my 53-year-old eyes can't see better.

I'm wondering if the bullet needs to be seated a little further out, for better accuracy.
Each gun is an individual, so this revolver may require bullets closer to the forcing cone.
Sorry I have no photo. It's late and I'm tired.
Love this old gun. A real beauty and I believe I got a good price on it for $318 (after taxes added).
Did I?
My guess is that it dates to the early 1960s. What say you?
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  #3  
Old 09-06-2008, 04:28 AM
jim sobieski jim sobieski is offline
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Sounds like a goodun. scsw says 1963-1965. Hope this helps. Jim.
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Old 09-06-2008, 08:29 PM
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Gato,

Certainly you know Cabela's is in Lehi, 25 miles and the sixth city south of Salt Lake don't you???
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  #5  
Old 10-05-2008, 05:23 PM
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Gatofeo Gatofeo is offline
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Model 10 nickel plated - When made? Model 10 nickel plated - When made? Model 10 nickel plated - When made? Model 10 nickel plated - When made? Model 10 nickel plated - When made?  
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Yes, I know that Cabela's is in Lehi.
I rounded off the location geographically because this is an international forum and certainly relatively few people have heard of Lehi, Utah.

I haven't shot the M-10 since I posted this. Been busy with other things. Hope to work up an accurate load over the winter, weather permitting.
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  #6  
Old 10-05-2008, 09:52 PM
bountyhunter bountyhunter is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by jim sobieski:
Sounds like a goodun. scsw says 1963-1965. Hope this helps. Jim.
Sounds about right. My dad bought one just like it new at a gun show in the late 60's and gave it to me. I still have it, they are pretty.
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bullseye, model 10, model 10-5, scsw, wadcutter


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