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S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors WITH Model Numbers


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  #1  
Old 08-03-2008, 05:18 PM
georg of ohio georg of ohio is offline
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Here is my dumb question of the day- As I was cleaning my gun after a day at the range, a buddy stop by. As we talked I finish cleaning my gun. Like always after it was cleaned I put a light coat of car wax (carnauba wax) on it before I put it back into the safe. He said that he have never hear of putting wax on a gun to protect it finish, and it would not protect it as good as oil. Have I been wrong for the past 40 years, or should I tell my buddy to bring some better beer over the next time he stopped by?
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Old 08-03-2008, 05:18 PM
georg of ohio georg of ohio is offline
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Here is my dumb question of the day- As I was cleaning my gun after a day at the range, a buddy stop by. As we talked I finish cleaning my gun. Like always after it was cleaned I put a light coat of car wax (carnauba wax) on it before I put it back into the safe. He said that he have never hear of putting wax on a gun to protect it finish, and it would not protect it as good as oil. Have I been wrong for the past 40 years, or should I tell my buddy to bring some better beer over the next time he stopped by?
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Old 08-03-2008, 05:35 PM
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Tell him to bring the brew's. I use this Renaissance Wax on my Model 29 and it keeps it looking like it just came out of the box.

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Old 08-03-2008, 05:38 PM
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Moisture causes steel to rust. Oil prevents moisture from contacting the metal....so no rust. Wax, I suspect, does the same thing.
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Old 08-03-2008, 06:43 PM
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Good wax is better than oil. It stays longer.
John
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Old 08-03-2008, 06:49 PM
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++1 On the Renaissance Wax...
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Old 08-03-2008, 07:13 PM
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I use Renaissance Wax.
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Old 08-03-2008, 07:34 PM
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Wax-it shows you care for fine arms.

Oil-keeps fine arms functioning.

Cosmoline-the stuff found on mil-surp guns from the last war.

Peanut butter-the stuff dropped in my deer rifle. OOps.
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Old 08-04-2008, 08:20 AM
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If I'm using the gun frequently, (weekly) I use oil. If I just use it occasionally, I use Renaissance Wax. I think the Wax enhances the blueing and shine, and lessens fingerprints from showing.
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Old 08-04-2008, 02:17 PM
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I've tested some oils and greases for corrosion protection on steel. RIG grease is an excellent protector. So is Hoppe's Gun Grease. Also WD40. But ordinary Johnson's paste wax is as good as anything I've ever tested. Buffed up, it doesn't hold dirt like oil and grease will. I'll try the Renaissance wax. Sounds really good.

By the way, motor oil seems to INCREASE corrosion. Same with gear oil. Put some on clean steel, wet it with the hose, and let it sit.
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Old 08-04-2008, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Also WD40.
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Old 08-04-2008, 03:41 PM
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A caution on wax: search for a non-abrasive type. Most car waxes have an very fine abrasive in the wax to smooth out pits in car finishes. That is NOT what you want.

Read the wax labels carefully.

I haven't systemically tested it -- and defer to those that have -- but have yet note a rust benefit from WD40. Maybe that is the new thing i learn today.

-- gary ray
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Old 08-04-2008, 03:54 PM
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for shootin - oil/clp/grease

for lookin at - Renaissance
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Old 08-04-2008, 04:08 PM
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The PRE-LIM product is a good adjunct if you need some surface prep. I use it sparingly and most often on the wood.

I use 5 times as much Renaissance Wax as Pre-Lim, but is a good thing to have around.
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Old 08-04-2008, 04:25 PM
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Wax all the way for this old boy. Why waste time and the mess of oil, its not worth it. Oil joints, wax the rest.
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Old 08-04-2008, 04:28 PM
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I have used Johnsons Floor Paste Wax with good results.
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Old 08-04-2008, 05:42 PM
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This wax thing is new to me. Where do you get Renaissance wax? Any application tips?

Thanks
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  #18  
Old 08-05-2008, 06:24 AM
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I used oil until a few months ago. I'm now a wax convert.

Renaissance Wax thread
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Old 08-05-2008, 09:13 AM
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Nygma,
Thanks for the thread.
Regards
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Old 08-05-2008, 11:12 AM
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I've posted this before, but it has been a while.
It may help answer your question Brownells Test
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Old 08-05-2008, 03:07 PM
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Back in the old days when I still used to hunt, I would wax the barrel and receiver of my pump shotgun with (at the time) best paste wax (Turtle) . People laughed as it was a beater Mossberg 500 pump, but 40 years later there isn't a speck of rust. I still use car wax on my weapons and like the way they look.

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Old 08-05-2008, 03:46 PM
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I've used Turtle Wax on my blued guns since about 1970, on pistols and long guns. It began in the police academy when we all carried blued model 19s. In learning how to care for our revolvers (they were ours, not issued), it was explained that when you mix water and oil, the oil floats to the surface of the water, exposing the metal to moisture. When water hits wax, the water beads off, protecting the metal. Keep it away from the internal parts and friction points.

Besides it highlights the engraving and looks really cool.

Here's my 38 year old former police duty weapon with it's wax finish. Nothing fancy, just good old car wax.

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  #23  
Old 08-07-2008, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by smith41mag:
Quote:
Also WD40.
I respectfully disagree with using WD40 on firearms. It gums up very badly.

In the mid to late 1970s, our Highway Patrol (Missouri) used WD40 and a trooper got into a shooting with his Model 66 4 inch. The weapon misfired.

Subsequent lengthy laboratory examination revealed that the WD40 had gummed up inside the action and had actually slowed the fall of the hammer and sort of "cushioned" the blow, causing light primer hits.

I was pretty surprised at the results and did not believe it until I checked a number of revolvers in the safe, and found every one of the WD40 ones had a "crud" build up that had to be removed by the use of Hoppes No. 9 solvent.

Now, I don't want to offend anyone at all, and we are all adults here, so everyone feel free to do as he, or she, pleases, but as for me and mine. . .we reserve the WD40 at my house, and the houses of my friends and relations, for squeaky door hinges.

The only approved solvent we use is Hoppes No 9 Nitro Powder Solvent, and the only official lubricant/protectant is Break Free CLP.

Thank you for allowing me to nicely post my concerns about WD40, but a friend of mine nearly got killed over its use.
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Old 08-07-2008, 08:29 PM
shawn mccarver shawn mccarver is online now
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Quote:
Originally posted by smith41mag:
Quote:
Also WD40.
As a follow-up to my earlier post, this is what the Brownell's test of lubricant/protectants had to say about WD40:

"Plate L - WD-40
Brownells P/N: N/A
Thickness: Ultra-thin liquid
Odor Rating: 4 (moderate to strong)


WD-40 lubricates, cleans and displaces moisture to prevent rust. Manufacturer recommended for firearms and other sporting equipment. Easy to apply formula contains petroleum distillates that could affect certain stock finishes. May cause gumming on internal components and inside receivers. Long-term use on gunmetals has been thought to limit the effectiveness of certain bluing solutions. WD-40 has been around a long time and earned the reputation as an excellent rust preventive for exterior surfaces of firearms. A favorite among old timers.

Test plates show excellent moisture displacement. Minimal rust formation is present; almost no pitting is visible after degreasing."

The moral is keep WD40 out of the inside of the firearm. Since that is hard to do, we don't use it at all on any part of the firearm.

I forgot to mention that we use RIG grease for long term storage. We have used a supply of Bianchi Blue Bags since they first came out and I have proof that 10 years in such a bag with no protectant resulted in NO rust.
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Old 08-08-2008, 09:24 AM
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As the owner of a bicycle shop I love it when people use WD40 to "lubricate" their chains. I sell a lot more replacement chains that way.
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Old 08-18-2008, 08:32 AM
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Right - I should have mentioned that WD40 is BAD for mechanisms. It dries as a wax. Probably no wax is good for mechanisms. But WD40 competes very well with most good rust preventers, and it is thin enough to get down into small contours without caking like wax does. But never spray if it can get inside a fine mechanism. Just use damp rag or Q-tip, and only on the outside. WD40 has its uses.

Easy to test the various rust preventers. Just grind or sand a bare spot on steel, put the stuff on as you would your gun, sprinkle with the hose like rain would, and let it dry.
Amazing differences!

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Old 08-18-2008, 12:41 PM
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I have been using RIG for a long time...It's great stuff for long term. Put a coat of that on, and your good to go.

It's getting hard to find though.
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Old 08-20-2008, 02:32 PM
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MAAS cream followed up with a good coat of Johnsons Wax on all my guns.I became a believer with Tornado in February that took all of my house but the closet wife and I were in. Guns were in closet with us. No roof and no way to recover guns (another tornado was on way and did hit just 2 miles away! It rained all night on uncovered guns. I had long guns and handguns. The blued guns with Remoil and CLP on them rusted badly. The guns I has just started waxing had no rust, (unfortunately the waxed ones were my plinkers and my .410.) Big bore guns all rusted, except Mossberg 835, which had been waxed.I am still steel wooling and buffing some of the guns, but I am shooting the waxed guns, no harm done by storm to them. I WAX!
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Old 08-20-2008, 02:51 PM
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I have used WD40 for cleaning (but still don't recommend it). It is NOT a good lubricant, nor is it good as a rust preventative. It is a penetrating oil for breaking loose stuck bolts, and frankly, that's about all it's good for. It is TOO THIN for use as a lubricant. It will actually run off the metal, leaving it bare, and taking with it any real oil or grease that might have been there before. I used to work for a company selling industrial sewing machines. We had several of them set up as demo machines in another warehouse, and I was instructed to take some WD-40, spray them down to "keep them from rusting". Well, I did what I was told and went to the warehouse and saw all the machines there that were in fine shape, and rust free just as they were, and sprayed them down with WD 40. Well the WD40 basically ran off the surfaces of the metal, and removed what oil was there already, and literally within a few days the machines were all quite rusty.

WD 40 will also gum up the works, as has been stated.

I use beeswax/olive oil mixture for the outside. I have this made up as patch lube (for flintlock rifles).
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Old 08-20-2008, 03:14 PM
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That WD40 WILL congeal on your guns. I know from personal experience.
I think you can find the Renaissance Wax on Ebay if you must have it. However I have a 1 lb. can of Johnson's Paste wax I've used for 40 years with good success. Put it on with a shoe waxing dauber and buff with a shoeshine brush then an old "T" shirt. Your good to go.
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Old 08-20-2008, 04:19 PM
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I agree. Johnson's paste wax is an excellent corrosion preventer. I've tested it many times and it comes out better than most other compounds. By the way, I found Rennaisance Wax at Arizona Silhouette. $25 for 200ml size, cheap shipping, came right away. Thanks for the info.

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Old 08-21-2008, 10:21 AM
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WD-40 IS NOT a lubricant. WD stands for water dispersant. which is what it was designed for many years ago. And that is what it is very good at. It has mistakenly being used as a penetrating oil and lubricant.
For rust prevention it is great.
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Old 08-21-2008, 10:28 AM
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Great thread
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  #34  
Old 08-21-2008, 10:37 AM
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WD40 is a penetrating fluid. It doesn't lubricate, just "Frees sticky mechanisms."

If I remember correctly, it has an effect on rust & corrosion, and bluing is a form of rust.
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Old 08-21-2008, 10:49 AM
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I got my Renaissance wax from ebay, 27. inc. s&h
it was here 4 days later.
Wife took it and now I don't know where it is but I do know where she has used it, and the wood table that is 55 years old looks great!
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Old 08-21-2008, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Babalooie:


If I remember correctly, it has an effect on rust & corrosion, and bluing is a form of rust.
GOOD POINT!! I never put 2 and 2 together, until now. Bluing is nothing more than a chemically generated oxide (rust).

I switched over to wax last year and have never looked back.
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  #37  
Old 08-22-2008, 03:40 AM
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FYI, The Brownells article that was referenced:

GUN CLEANING CLINIC: Knowing The Limits Of Rust Preventives, By: Steve Schmidt
<span class="ev_code_WHITE">zzz</span>
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  #38  
Old 08-22-2008, 05:44 AM
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I use Johnson's Paste Wax or Mother's pure Carnuba Wax for cars.
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Old 08-22-2008, 06:45 AM
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Thompson Center Bore Butter works as well or better than anything I have ever tried. A light coat spread evenly over firearm, rub with clean soft cloth till its gone. You will be amazed, I promise.
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Old 08-22-2008, 09:06 AM
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Here's something that touches on the subject and is interesting to others...

http://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html
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Old 08-22-2008, 10:19 AM
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Was introduced to RIG as a teenager early on in my gun hobby. Here 30-something years later I'm still using RIG and never have rust. In hot Texas summers guns can get sweaty. A few times through the years I have inadvertently overlooked a timely wipe-down, yet RIG came through and protected the finishes. I enjoy waterfowling and my firearms have withstood typical damp duck hunting environments because of RIG.

RIG has worked well for long-term storage for me.

RIG has always been reliable and I don't intend to give it the heave-ho for wax.
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Old 08-22-2008, 02:00 PM
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I use RIG and swear by it for storage and protection. When I set up at a gun show I wipe down with a RIG rag when it's over. Never any worries. I use Johnson's paste wax for pictures.
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Old 08-22-2008, 02:09 PM
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I learned a LOT from this thread. Thanks!
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Old 08-22-2008, 09:53 PM
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I have been using the same can of Johnson's paste wax for a long time. 
Does anyone have any experience with Boeshield T-9? I use it of my fly fishing gear in salt water. I dries to a soft waxy coating.
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Old 11-09-2008, 01:56 PM
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The consensus seems to be wax to protect the finish. (With a strong undercurrent of grease like RIG, too.) But what about these when the gun is shot a lot? Do any of these generate a lot of smoke when the gun gets hot? That is, are they "shootin'" or just "lookin'" finish protection?
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Old 11-09-2008, 03:30 PM
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With a waxed weapon, how do you clean it after a range session? Do you remove the wax to clean the weapon and then reapply it? If so, what do you use to remove the wax? Does Breakfree or Hoppe's, etc., remove the wax when you apply it? Thanks.
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Old 11-09-2008, 05:06 PM
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Okay, I'm probably doing something wrong. I applied Renaissance Wax in a very thin coat and let it sit for a few hours to dry. It was very hard to buff out and left a thick residue that looked awful. I'm sure it was my fault. Maybe let it dry too long? How do I do it right? Thanks for any help.
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Old 11-09-2008, 07:19 PM
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I apply it with my fingers to the whole gun then wipe it clean immediately. It dries in seconds.
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Old 11-09-2008, 11:01 PM
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Oil likes to "SUCK" up water. I use Mother's Mag Wax on my guns, I try to stay with USA items and not inport junk. Mother's will take care of the toys like Mom did you .
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Old 11-10-2008, 09:03 AM
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I've used Johnson's paste wax for 25 years on all of my guns, steel and wood. I've also used Renaissance more recently but actually prefer the Johnson's.

With Renaissance, I wipe off and polish within a minute or so to avoid the difficult buffing.
If you wait too long just apply another coat, then buff immediately. Johnson's I allow to dry a little longer, until it becomes a little tacky, then buff to a high luster.

On the long guns that see wet weather, I remove the wood stock and apply generously to the inletting and hidden portions of the barrel and action. I usually don't bother to buff these areas, just wipe away any excess when dry.

I suppose most of the wax is removed when cleaning, especially by any of the bore cleaners, but reapplying takes only minutes and has worked well for me for many years.

Roe
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bianchi, brownells, commercial, flintlock, lock, military, model 29, model 66, primer, renaissance, serrated, silhouette, solvent, thompson, trooper

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