Link to the 38/44 Heavy Duty Website:

www.38-44heavyduty.com

__________________
www.38-44heavyduty.com

Thank you for posting this, Magnum Nut. One thing I don’t understand is why there is not more discussion of the grind the flag technique vs. the remove the whole thing and deal with the hole in the frame technique.

It’s entirely possible I do not understand the mechanics of this thing, but it seems a person could grind the flag and reinstall it. Even if the lock fails, it will fail in a “safe condition” and not prevent the gun from firing. An added bonus is you don’t have to deal with the hole in the side plate either. Then buy a replacement flag from S&W and stick it in the drawer until/if you need to install it to sell the gun. Or if it is a fitted part, maybe it would be better to grind and install the new replacement flag and put the original flag in the drawer for later?

I don’t understand why this would not be the path of least resistance? Unless people desire to remove the whole thing just for cosmetic reasons as well as the practical reason? I apologize if this has been covered before but I don’t recall any pictorial for this technique being posted before?

Thanks

Please note that this list is a general guide and not meant to be exact. There is some dispute regarding the dates on some serial numbers and your gun may actually be a year off from what is listed. The precise shipping date as "lettered" can be several years off depending on model. For the exact date on your gun request the letter from Roy Jinks.

Post-War S Series N frames:

S62,489 – S67,999……..1946 - Early 1947
S68,000 – S71,999……….Late 1947 – Early 1948
S72,000 – S72,499……….Late 1948 - Early 1949
S72,500 – S74,999……….Late 1949 – Early 1950
S75,000 – S80,499……….Late 1950 – Early 1951
S80,500 – S85,999……….Late 1952 – Early 1952
S86,000 – S94,999…….…Late 1952 – Early 1953
S95,000 – S102,999…….Late 1953 – Early 1954
S103,000 – S139,999……Late 1954 – Early 1955*
S140,000 – S149,999….Late 1955 – Early 1956
S150,000 – S175,999……Late 1956 – Early 1957
S176,000 – S181,999……Late 1957 – Early 1958
S182,000 – S194,499……Late 1958 – Early 1959
S194,500 – S206.999……Late 1959 – Early 1960
S207,000 – S219,999……Late 1960 – Early 1961
S220,000 – S227,999……Late 1961 – Early 1962
S228,000 – S231,999……Late 1962 – Early 1963
S232,000 – S235.999……Late 1963 – Early 1964
S236,000 – S257,999……Late 1964 – Early 1965
S258,000 – S261,999……Late 1965 – Early 1966
S262,000 – S289,999……Late 1966 – Early 1967
S290,000 – S304,999……Late 1967 – Early 1968
S305,000 – S329,999……Late 1968 – Early 1969
S330,000 – S333,454……Late 1969 – Early 1970

*Note that a number of N frames with serials in the S138000-S140000 range (and the range may be wider either way) are seen that were shipped much later than the serial would suggest should be the case. In one known example a gun with serial S136431 was not shipped until June of 1958. It's possible that a large block of serial numbers that appear to be from 1954-55 were not actually used until 1957-58. It at least one case a gun has a 5-screw serial and was built as a 4-screw gun.


N Series N Frames:

N1 – N60,000………….......1970-72
N60,001 – N 190,000…...1972-74
N190,001 – N430,000…...1975 – 77
N430.001 – N 550,000…..1978
N550,001 – N580,000….. 1979
N580,001 – N790,000…...1980
N790,001 – N932,999...…1980-83

Post-War S Series K Frames:

S811,120 – S999,999…….1946 – 48

C Series K Frames: (Fixed Sight Models)

C1 - C233,999………….....1948 – 52
C236,004 – C261,483…….1953
C277,555 – C314,031….…1954 – 56
C402,924 – C405,018…….1957
C405,019 – C429,740…..1958 – 59
C429,741 – C474,148…….1960
C474,149 – C622,699…….1961 – 62
C622,700 – C810,532…….1963 – 65
C810,533 – C999,999…..1966 – 67

D Series K Frames: (Fixed Sight Models)

D1 – D90,000…………….....1968
D90,001 – D330,000……..1969 -70
D330,001 – D420,000………1971 – Early 72
D420,001 – D510,000………Late 1972 – Early 73
D510,001 – D659,901………Late 1973 – Early 1974
D659.902 – D75000………..Late 1974 – Early 1975
D750,001 – D870,000………Late 1975 – Early 1976
D870,001 – D999,999………Late 1976 – Early 1977
2D00001 - 2D80,000……….1977
2D80,001 – 2D99,999………1978
4D00001 – 6D10,000……….1979
6D10,0001 – 7D10,000……1980
7D10,001 – 9D44,500…..1981
9D44,501 – 17D8,900………1982
17D8,901 – 21D0883……….1983

K Series K Frames (Adjustable Sight Models)

K101 – K614……………......1946
K615 – K18,731…………....1947
K18,732 – K73,121……..…1948
K73,122 – K84,149……..…1949
K84,150 – K104,047…...1950
K104,048 – K136,690...1951
K136,691 – K175,637...1952
K175,638 – K210,095...1953
K210,096 – K231,255...1954
K231,256 – K266,154...1955
K266,155 – K288,988...1956
K288,989 – K317,822...1957
K317,823 – K350,547...1958
K350,548 – K386,804...1959
K386,805 – K429,894...1960
K429,895 – K468,098...1961
K468,099 – K515,478...1962
K515,479 – K553,999....1963
K555,000 – K605.877....1964
K605,878 – K658.986....1965
K658,987 – K715,996....1966
K715,997 – K779.162....1967
K779,163 – K848,781....1968
K848,782 – K946,391....1969
K946,382 – K999,999....1970
1K1 – 1K39,500.........1970
2K1 – 2K22.037.........1970
1K39,501 – 1K999,999...1971
2K22,038 – 2K55,996....1971
3K1 – 3K73,962.........1971
2K55,997 – 2K99,999....1972
3K31,280 – 5K6,616.....1972
4K1 – 4K1,627..........1972
4K1,628 – 4K54,104.....1973
5K6,617 – 5K73,962.....1973
4K54,105 – 4K99,999....1974
5K73,963 – 6K58,917....1974
7K1 – 7K26,043.........1974
7K26,044 – 7K70,577....1975
6K98,918 – 8K20,763....1975
8K20,764 – 9K1.........1975
8K20,000 – 9K100,000...1975
9K1,001 – 9K99,999.....1976
10K001 – 24K9,999......1977
25K001 – 56K9,999......1978 – 79
57K001 – 91K6,800......1980
91K6,801 – 124K000.....1981
125K000 – 269K9,999....1982
270K000 – 311K273......1983

1980 Three-Letter Prefix Series Begins at AAA000

Contact me if you see any errors.

__________________
saxon_pig@hotmail.com

It should come as no suprise to anyone..I don't agree with the K frame numbers/dates from the 1946-7 era. From our earlier discussions, we know that the serial sequence started at K101 in December of 1946. They shipped less than 50 guns in 1946 using K prefix. The guns above at least K150 are 1947 guns.

The guy at the gunshows displaying K137 lettered it as a 1946 gun. Drew's K117 is a 1946 gun (December). My K155 and K166 both letter as January 1947. These were all K22s, with the K32 and K38 coming later in 1947.

__________________
Dick Burg

Does the diagram depict the 'trigger hook' in contact with the base of the stone? When you refer to the 'hammer notch', is that the part of the hammer that rests inside/comes into contact with the trigger hook? Sorry for 'dumb' questions.

I have a J-frame model 49. I want to smooth out the trigger pull without changing the mainspring. I currently have a 13# Wolff rebound slide spring installed. The rebound slide has been stoned a bit. I still find the pull to be a bit less smooth than desired.

I have tried a 8# mainspring and there is a noticeable difference with trigger pull. But I want the gun to be 100% reliable with any ammunition or primer. Testing the gun with that reduced 8# mainspring and empty primed cases with CCI primers (about six were used for the test)did not result in a FTF, but I would rather be safe than sorry-so I'm sticking with the factory mainspring.

parasite -- disassembly is easy enough, it's getting it back together that can be vexing.

Like many others, I'd recommend you get the kuhnhausen book for S&W revolvers. It's quite useful if you ever take the side plate off a S&W revolver.

There are loads of disassembly how-to's on the web.

Here's how i do it.

Get a 1 gallon zip lock bag and a small bowl to put parts in. You'll need the bag to catch the inevitable wayward spring.

Take out your GUNSMITH HOLLOWGROUND SCREWDRIVERS. Make sure they properly fit the sideplate screws. If not, stone one down until it fits properly -- with no slack.

1. Ensure the revolver is unloaded!
2. Remove grips. Remove the screw, take panels off.
3. Ensure the revolver is unloaded.
4. Remove the side plate screws. Pay attention to which screw goes in which hole. It's important for reassembly.
5. DO NOT PRY THE SIDEPLATE OFF. To remove the sideplate, hold the revolver by the barrel and rap the grip frame firmly with a non-marring hammer. The side plate will pop loose.
6. Lift the side plate off. Note the tab at the top of the side plate. When you reassemble, the top goes in first, with the tab inside the frame. DO NOT PRY the SIDEPLATE OFF -- it will bend. Do not force it back in place, it will bend.
7. lift the hammer block off. Note that the little looped end goes on the rebound slide when you put it back together.
8. Loosen the strain screw (it's that little screw in the grip frame that holds the main spring under tension.
9. Lift the mainspring out and rotate it off the hammer stirrup.

Put the revolver in the zip lock bag now.

10. GENTLY pry up the rebound slide. The spring will fly out when it decompresses. Try to catch it with your hand. If not, the bag will catch it (hopefully).
11. Retract the hand. While holding it back, GENTLY LIFT out the trigger-hand assembly. You can further remove the hand, but this is not generally required for detailed cleaning. Remember the hand is under spring tension, so if you take it off, remember to restore the original spring tension. It's important
12. Cock the hammer and lift it out of the frame.
13. GENTLY pry up the cylinder stop. It's under spring tension, and that little spring will decompress rapidly.
14. Open the cylinder. Gently pull the cylinder-yoke assembly toward the muzzle. It will come free from the frame.
15. Seperate the yoke from the cylinder.
16. Remove cylinder latch screw and cylinder latch (from the outside).
17. (Back on the inside of the frame). Retract the bolt and gently push it out. I push on from the outside of the frame. THIS TOO IS SPRING LOADED. THere's a little spring and plunger on the back of the bolt. It tends to fly away. Spring goes inside the bolt -- plunger on the outside.
18. If desired, remove adjustable sight assembly. Two screws. There's a small stud under the rear sight that slides into a groove in the frame. Easy to loose track of this if you're not careful.

That should do it for most purposes.

You can disassembly the cylinder. REmember, the threads on the ejector rod are left-hand, backward from most everything else.
EDIT- 6-28-09 The ejector rod threads are LEFT-hand threads AFTER about 1961.
BEFORE about 1961, the ejector rods have standard RIGHT-hand type threads.
Lee J.

I put six emtpy pieces of brass in the cylinder. Then, with padded pliers, grasp the ejector rod. Turn the cylinder and unscrew the ejector rod.
EDIT- 6-28-09 > I clamp the ejector rod in a vise padded with soft poplar wood jaws or a set of oak jaws padded with thick hard leather. Grooved plier jaws can cut THROUGH padding, even leather, when squeezed hard enough, and do serious damage to the ejector rod. Don't ask me how I know this......
Lee J.

The assembly pulls apart. You'll have the extractor star, two springs, a bushing, the ejector rod, and the cylinder.

That's as far as I usually go. This is only my procedure. Your mileage may vary. Look at the parts chart on page one of the FAQ.

I really recommend you buy the kuhnhausen book from MidwayUSA or other fine retailer before your get your revolver in the same room with a screwdriver. It will tell you lots about how your revolver works and potentially save headaches.

Can you elaborate on the staking and crimping of the rear sight nut? Do you use the punch for that? What is that spanner-wrench looking thing and what is it used for? Is it necessary? Thanks.

I am also curious about this tiny tool.

The instructions that come from Smith and Wesson with the rear sight blade kit call it a "forked windage nut wrench." I would like to purchase one, but cannot seem to find them on Brownells.com or MidwayUSA.com.

Also curious about the procedure for staking the screw.

Yuk yuk ...my 500's less than 6 months old and I've vibrated loose the following parts (with recoil):

- Extractor rod
- Rear sights (twice, lost the elevation nut once)
- Orange plastic insert in the front site

S&W graciously sent new sights and sights parts to me, but I found the only real fix on the rear sight is a drop of thread locker on the threads of the elevation screw. I had to put threadlocker on the extractor rod (inside) threads as well. I had to SuperGlue the orange insert back into the front sight. I have maybe 700 rounds through the gun, maybe only 50 full-house loads (with 535gr Keith style bullets, 30 gr H110). I wonder what'll vibrate loose next?

Brian

What is the cylindrical stub on the side of the older hands above the trigger assembly for and can they be replaced with newer hands without the stub in older revolvers with no trouble?