I've seen a few references that nickel guns should not be stored with the stocks on. Is this true? If so, what's the problem?
Dave

Well, I leave the stocks on mine.
But I also take them off when I clean it and store the gun(s) in low humidity to avoid problems with finish, nickel or blue.

GF

Leaving the stocks on revolver finished in nickel can lead to discoloration and/or flaking of the nickel. I store all of my revolvers finished in nickel without the stocks. I have not had a problem with guns finished in blue.

I don't know why the problems occur, only that they do.

Bill

This is good to know, just when I thought I knew everything. You drop this bit of information on me. I will have to check mine out.Thanks.

It's pretty simple. Wood is acidic and will leave it's mark on any gun. Blue or nickle, it's not fussy. A light coat of oil on the back side of the stocks help prevent this. For long term storage I would remove them.
DW

Hmmm...I've never heard this one. And I've never had a problem with leaving the grips on a nickle gun. I do use a thin coating of Rig on the grip frame prior to putting them back on after cleaning.

Could someone who has experienced this problem with a nickle gun post some photos?

I store my Nickel guns with the grips on but I put several coats of Renaissance wax on the whole gun including the area under the grips. I do this for my blued guns as well.

I did buy a Nickel Model 27-2 that has a discoloration under the grips and I cleaned that up with Flitz and then appled the wax. Renaissance wax has a nutrual PH and protects the gun very well and is what Museums use on guns. It can be bought from Brownells and a can will last a very long time for $15.

What happens to the Renaissance Wax when you shoot the gun and it gets hot? Does the wax melt and get gooey?

When properly applied, its so thin you couldn't notice. Particularly under the grips, one of the least hot area's on a gun. But when you shoot a gun you have several choices later on. You can clean it and protect it, or you can ignore it an allow the gun to fend for itself. We've all seen examples of guns 100 years old that still look nearly new. Careful examination reveals the gun has been used, but no deterioration from the elements or corrosion. My best guess is the gun was cared for.

To me, that means after every firing session a minor clean up is in order. Sweaty hands and gunshot residue (a CSI term) probably aren't good for any metal object. If you're lazy, or just a slob, do as you wish. If you've got a nickel gun in good condition, you need to use powder solvent on it, then take some step to protect the finish. We know most oils just bead up and run off. So wax becomes a viable surface cover. Its you choice. No reason to be anal about it, either. If its cool outside, and you only fire the gun once (and you're not sweaty), leave the grips on. Then take them off the next time or two.

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Dick Burg

I have a nicklel pre-15 that is mostly pristine until you look under the grips...its pretty bad under there. I'll try to post some pics tonight.

this is new to me. I have had a preference for nickel N frames from the time I started buying them in the late 70's. I've always stored them with grips on. I to my knowledge have never had any problem. Perhaps I'll check some of them out that have never been fired. The fired ones get the grips removed and a good wipe down with breakfree from time to time.

Re the powder solvent comment on nickeled guns -- I'm sure it's old news here, but many powder solvents are designed to attack copper as well as powder fouling, and copper underlies the nickel. If it finds an opening anywhere in the nickel...

An oil like FP-10 might be a better choice for cleaning nickel guns. So I've read.

I've owned nickeled revolvers for 33 years. I like using wax after a good no solvent cleaning under the grips and entire gun rather than Break Free for all of my Smiths. Never a blemish or discoloration. I use McGuires but some folks prefer Renaissance Wax. I couldn't tell a difference between the 2 so went with Mcguires which is less expensive and does a great job of protecting all finishes. No need to worry about an obtrusive oil or solvent getting underneath the nickel.

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Roger / SG

I believe your MacGuires wax has an abrasive polishing compound in it that you might not want to use on guns. I considered it too, then I read the ingredients and decided against it. Renaissance Wax/Polish contains no abrasive ingredients at all. That is why it is recommended by most firearm museums and antique dealers. A $12 jar on Ebay will last you for a decade of protecting your guns.

http://www.woodfinishsupply.com/RenWax.html

I'm getting a real education here. Never even thought about taking the grips off. That's scary. Mine's pretty rare too.

I will add that in addition to coating the metal on my Nickel as well as the blue and stainless guns I also coat the inside of the grips with the Renaissance wax. This was not specifically recommended but since the wax is approved for wood I have adopted this policy when cleaning or just polishing. Since having the Renaissance recommended on this forum I have used it on all my firearms and knives and anything else that could corrode or rust. I am certainly not the source authority but until something better comes along this is my choice.

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Sam
S&WHF 333 S&WCA 2198

Didn't think to check out E-Bay. Beats the local car parts store prices by almost half price. I'll try it.

Thanks for the tip texagun!

Roger

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Roger / SG

Leaving the grips in place on nickel guns can cause problems. I found this out the hard way when I left a set on a nice Model 57 for more than five years without cleaning under the grips. When I finally removed the grips, the finish was slightly discolored and there were couple of small rust spots starting. Nobody to blame but myself.

The only nickel plated gun I have is my Browning BDA380. I bought it in the mid 80s. The date code in the serial number is PX. I don't have my Browning book with me to check the date. Anyhow, I just removed the walnut grips, and the metal is perfect. Now, there is a difference between my Browning and a Smith & Wesson. My Browning was electroless nickel plated on an aluminum frame, while a S&W is conventionally nickel plated on a steel frame. I wonder if this makes a difference?

I had my Remington R-1 bright nickel plated last summer by Mahovskys Metalife and just removed the wood grips and cleaned and waxed with collinite double coat wax by two coats on all mating surfaces. If i hadn't read this forum i wouldn't have thought of it. I will recheck in a month or so. Thanks, Joe

It's simply a chemical reaction between the natural chemicals/oils in the wood and metal. I'm sure everyone has noticed a bit of green growing between the wood and nickeled S&W medallions of the grips. Seems to be greater between the more exotic woods than with American walnut or rosewood.

I will pull the grips on my airweight as it is a aluminum frame and see if it has change any as the gun is a mid 70's model and looks to have never been off.

Well, once again, time invested reading these forum posts is time well spent!!

As Johnny Carson often said "I did not know that!"

After reading through all of these posts this morning I went through my entire collection this afternoon. I may be wrong, but there appears to be finish residue from the target grip finish on the inside of the grips where it contacted the revolvers. It was shiney, and had an oil base to it. I wiped it all off and then applied the Renaissance Wax to both the grips and the revolvers. One of my 29-2s nickels did have some pitting already under the grips, just as Doc44 described. It was too late for the Flitz.

As several members have also recommended, I did the same for my blue finish Smiths. Can't give them enough TLC for the job that they do for me!

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That's what we do!