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S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors WITH Model Numbers


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Old 03-26-2024, 10:59 AM
Beauseph Beauseph is offline
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I'm brand new to the revolver world. I've shot them and always thought they were "neat" but I never actually considered their reliability until I thought of all the malfunctions you can have with an autoloader compared to a revolver.

In addition, revolvers are the best looking handguns.

It seems that my timing is terrible as all of the older model Smiths have skyrocketed in price... well I guess I should've expected that (and I did). I missed out on the surplus/turn in sales from companies and now I've been researching based on what I can find online.

What should I look for in my first revolver? I'm partial to age, history, and older designs in my search. I do like the added value of them being used as police / military in their history - I don't necessary need a prior marked LE/MIL gun though.

My intended uses are mostly going to be range use and the occasional walk in the woods gun. It may be delegated to the wife's side of the bed since it's so easy to use in comparison to my decked out autoloaders with optics.

I'm going into this with limiting my purchase to one gun at this time. Like a, if you could only have one, which would it be, type of scenario. If I enjoy it, I may get others.

The options I've researched have been:

Model 10 (Dash 4, 5, 6)
Model 19 (Pre lock)
Model 66 (Pre lock)
Model 686+ (Prefer pre lock but that's been thin picking)

I've been trying to find a decent price for these and they've seemed to be all over online. Anybody able to give me a good range to start with/go by?

I've gravitated toward a 4 inch barrel and I don't have a huge preference on blued vs SS.

As far as caliber, I'm not terribly partial but I'd think a .357 capable gun is the best option currently since you can run 38s through it.

Any other insight, recommendations, pricing history, etc is greatly appreciated.

Last edited by Beauseph; 03-26-2024 at 11:01 AM.
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Old 03-26-2024, 11:08 AM
22hipower 22hipower is offline
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They're like potato chips, nobody can have just one. But you have to start somewhere and those you've listed are as good a place to start as any. Personally of those listed I'd go with a 4 inch M19 or 66. Whichever I found first at a reasonable price ($600-$900 where I shop) without box/papers/etc. While I was looking for one, should I stumble on a Combat Masterpiece .22 (M18) I'd grab that too. After those, the sky is the limit. Good luck and be sure and show them off here. And welcome to the Forum.

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Old 03-26-2024, 11:14 AM
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They're like potato chips, nobody can have just one. But you have to start somewhere and those you've listed are as good a place to start as any. Personally of those listed I'd go with a 4 inch M19 or 66. Whichever I found first at a reasonable price ($600-$900 where I shop) without box/papers/etc. While I was looking for one, should I stumble on a Combat Masterpiece .22 (M18) I'd grab that too. After those, the sky is the limit. Good luck and be sure and show them off here. And welcome to the Forum.

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I appreciate the reply. So far I'm leaning toward the 19/66 with a slight preference to the 19 because a blued gun is nicer to my eyes to look at.

Finding one seems to be the difficulty, at least locally. I've been to no less than a dozen gun stores and pawn shops with no luck finding any of the listed models.

What's the range on that M18?
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Old 03-26-2024, 11:25 AM
ColumbusJBR ColumbusJBR is offline
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All of those are fine choices. If you want the flexibility to handle .357 rounds, eliminate the model 10.

I’ve yet to meet a person who dislikes their Model 19 or 66 (They’re essentially the same gun, 19 is usually blued, 66 is stainless). K frame is a great size, adjustable sights, .357 mag flexibility… what’s not to love?

686 also a fine weapon, albeit a little beefier than the K frames. If you want to shoot a LOT of .357, the 686 was designed specifically to handle that. Not that you can’t shoot .357 in the 19 or 66, but there have been rare but documented instances of the forcing cone cracking due to overuse of hot .357s… just something to consider. I wouldn’t let that deter me from a 19 or 66 if they check all the other boxes.

For realistic pricing, it’s helpful to check completed auctions on GB. Gives you a current idea of what people are willing to pay, and just as important, AREN’T willing to pay.

And IF I could only have 1? That depends on the person, but personally I’ll be dead and gone before I sell my blued Model 19 4”. It’s mine forever
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Old 03-26-2024, 11:31 AM
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I've owned all of the models listed would choose Model 66 . Blued guns are nice but most used and show scratches and wear. You can cold blue but usually rubs off . Stainless can be lightly sanded and polished . other models 64 ,67 and Model 65 mag. Other common blued model would be Model 14
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Old 03-26-2024, 11:33 AM
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Welcome to the FORUM from Michigan! Once you start you want more! Good luck with your search. Bob
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Old 03-26-2024, 11:43 AM
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I've always told newcomers to choose what fits the hand well, but even having said that the K-frames you listed are easily adapted to any size/shape hand by changing the grips...I would suggest any .38/.357 that fits your budget as a first one since you'll have a very wide variety of target/plinking/defensive ammo to choose from...Of the ones listed you have one with fixed sights and the others with adjustable sights...Choose the sights that are quickly acquired by your vision...Those are my suggestions based on what you have listed...

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Old 03-26-2024, 11:56 AM
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Range and "walk in the woods" gun, the 686 since most can handle the weight for those kinds of instances (unless you plan on spending hours upon hours in the woods). If you would plan on daily carrying the 66 hands down. I have the 686+ and while it's a superb firearm with an excellent trigger it gets a little long on the tooth for EDC as far as weight is concerned. I'm on the lookout for a good 66.

As has already been mentioned get your hands on them and see what feels best. If it feels good in your hand you'll shoot good with it. I've never seen the opposite so far...

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Old 03-26-2024, 12:07 PM
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As long as it has adjustable sights, you can’t go wrong.
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Old 03-26-2024, 12:07 PM
Beauseph Beauseph is offline
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I really appreciate all of the replies and information provided! It seems I made a great decision by joining up.

I've been hesitant on the 686 because of the extra weight. When I go into the woods, it's normal for me to be out there for an easier counted amount of days rather than hours, so weight is a factor.

That being said, I've carried my full size 20 round Staccato P on over night trips already. I'd consider the revolver for shorter, lighter weight type treks rather than over night, deep woods excursions.

It seems I'm settling on a model 19 the most. I don't mind that the bluing shows some wear and age, as long as I do my part, it should be a non-issue as far as corrosion / pitting is concerned. I just like the look of blued better.
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Old 03-26-2024, 04:14 PM
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If I had a desire to shoot .357 magnums, I’d buy a 686.

But as you say you don’t have your heart set on this I’d vote for a 4” Model 10. They are the quintessential service revolver, they’re easy to find, they are the least expensive of the presented options, and they’re a hoot to shoot.
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Old 03-26-2024, 04:28 PM
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If you want a revolver. Buy the epitome of a revolver. S&W 10-5 or 10-6 depending on your barrel preference. You’ll never regret it
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Old 03-26-2024, 04:31 PM
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If I had a desire to shoot .357 magnums, I’d buy a 686.

But as you say you don’t have your heart set on this I’d vote for a 4” Model 10. They are the quintessential service revolver, they’re easy to find, they are the least expensive of the presented options, and they’re a hoot to shoot.
I like the option of being able to load some 357 for the woods, if desired. How does the 10 hold up to .38 +P?
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Old 03-26-2024, 04:41 PM
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You sound a little like me. My first firearm was a four-inch Model 19 with the "three Ts" - target trigger, target hammer and target stocks. I now own 22 Smith & Wesson pre-lock, pre-MIM revolvers, including the Model 66 version of that Model 19 (pictured below) so they are infectious. My suggestion is a four-inch Model 66 because of its flexibility - it can be used for target shooting, hunting and self-protection as that barrel length is not unhandy to carry - and its low-maintenance finish. Three of my S&Ws are Model 66s.

The slightly larger-framed Model 686s are nice - I have a small fleet of them as well - but the K-frame is to me just a little nicer. All that said, if you can find a nice older Model 19 their bluing is gorgeous. Shucks, you could just buy them all!

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Old 03-26-2024, 04:47 PM
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Shucks, you could just buy them all!
No you can't!...I've been trying for years...Everytime I think I've bought them all, there's another one on the horizon...I feel like the poor, drunken Canadian sailor who sat crying under the billboard that read "Drink Canada Dry!"...He lamented over and over, "It can't be done, it can't be done!"......Ben
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Old 03-26-2024, 04:48 PM
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You sound a little like me. My first firearm was a four-inch Model 19 with the "three Ts" - target trigger, target hammer and target stocks. I now own 22 Smith & Wesson pre-lock, pre-MIM revolvers, including the Model 66 version of that Model 19 (pictured below) so they are infectious. My suggestion is a four-inch Model 66 because of its flexibility - it can be used for target shooting, hunting and self-protection as that barrel length is not unhandy to carry - and its low-maintenance finish. Three of my S&Ws are Model 66s.

The slightly larger-framed Model 686s are nice - I have a small fleet of them as well - but the K-frame is to me just a little nicer. All that said, if you can find a nice older Model 19 their bluing is gorgeous. Shucks, you could just buy them all!

Ed
I do have to say that 66 looks gorgeous. I'm back and forth for sure whether 19 or 66. Maybe both is the right answer.

Does a 66 normally take more out of the wallet to purchase compared to a 19?

Last edited by Beauseph; 03-26-2024 at 04:57 PM.
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Old 03-26-2024, 05:34 PM
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A model 19 or 66 in decent shape will fire 38 specials forever and a lot of 357 mags if you use bullets around 158gr and don't +p absolute max loads on the 357s. A 4" 686 will digest a lot of about anything and is about 42oz while a the 19 or 66 are about 36oz

If your really weight conscious and only fire a couple hundred 357s a year go with the K frame Or you could keep an eye out for a 386. A Scandium alloy L frame 357 that is about 18 oz

So says the guy with J, K and N frame 357s LOL. The 5 shot J steel frame is kind of brutal and having several scandium 44 specials and 45 acps, I will tell you the recoil with the real light guns is "SNAPPY"
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Old 03-26-2024, 06:54 PM
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When comparing on-line auction prices be sure to only look at SOLD auction prices under completed auctions.
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Old 03-26-2024, 06:55 PM
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I like the option of being able to load some 357 for the woods, if desired. How does the 10 hold up to .38 +P?
The SAAMI max pressure for .357 Magnum is 75% higher than that for 38 +P. I would trust a Model 10 to stand up to a steady diet of the latter much more than I would a trust Model 19 to stand up to a steady diet of the former.
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Old 03-26-2024, 07:29 PM
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Having carried and qualified with a K frame for 20 years, my personal overall choice is a Model 64 4 inch...I have a really nice Model 10, Model 15, 1969 Colt Trooper MkIII, etc. but a basic K frame stainless is just hard to beat.

With stainless, you don't have that inevitable cylinder drag wear line that is so obvious on a blued gun...Plus, the fact that the value is never going to go down...If you want L frame, the 4 inch pre-lock 686 is awesome too...But again, go stainless if you plan on using the gun...You can always buff a little cylinder drag line away from a stainless gun....Blue requires major surgery.
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Old 03-27-2024, 09:02 AM
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Having carried and qualified with a K frame for 20 years, my personal overall choice is a Model 64 4 inch...I have a really nice Model 10, Model 15, 1969 Colt Trooper MkIII, etc. but a basic K frame stainless is just hard to beat.

With stainless, you don't have that inevitable cylinder drag wear line that is so obvious on a blued gun...Plus, the fact that the value is never going to go down...If you want L frame, the 4 inch pre-lock 686 is awesome too...But again, go stainless if you plan on using the gun...You can always buff a little cylinder drag line away from a stainless gun....Blue requires major surgery.
I appreciate the reply and advice regarding stainless. I've been slowly convinced that maybe I should grab up a stainless variant over blued. If I get into collecting these, then I'll grab a blued or two that will be occasional shooters and keep the stainless for carry options.
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Old 03-27-2024, 10:01 AM
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Blue finish ( I detest the looks of stainless myself) holds up a ton better than most people believe or say and I don’t care for this steady diet commentary we see a lot. Unless you reload or are a rich guy, you simply are not going to shoot full house magnums or plus p 38’s routinely. I know lots of revolver people and no one does. They use standard pressure 38’s 90+% of the time, leaving full house loads for carry and maybe shooting a few boxes a year. At that rate a gun in good condition will function fine until your great grand child inherits it.
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Old 03-27-2024, 10:10 AM
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I'll throw a fly in the ointment. Let's not forget the about the 4in model 13/65's.
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Old 03-27-2024, 11:12 AM
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I'll throw a fly in the ointment. Let's not forget the about the 4in model 13/65's.
Did not know about these. Thanks!
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Old 03-27-2024, 11:32 AM
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When I was a police officer I mostly carried a Python. At that time,we were not allowed to carry a stainless gun. My 4" blued Python does show wear from daily carry. (Still in my safe after 40+ years) When stainless was finally approved, I bought a model 66 and loved it. I tried a 4" model 686 but found it too heavy for daily carry. Today I have several K frames in my safe but no L frames. As others have said the 686 is a great gun, it is better for magnum use but too heavy. Buy a 66.
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Old 03-27-2024, 11:43 AM
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Welcome to the Forum, Beauseph! You've come to the wrong place if you want a suggestion on purchasing ONE revolver. I don't think that there's anyone here on the Forum that owns and/or shoots only one S&W revolver. Collecting or acquiring vintage S&W revolvers is addicting, and there's no 12-step Plan to help you! LOL! You will get dozens of opinions and suggestions, but only you can decide in which direction you want to go. Personally, I'm a fan of the larger N-frame revolvers, but I do have some great K-frames (early M&Ps, K-22s, Model 10s, 19s). L-frames (like the 686s) are fantastic revolvers, too. I also prefer adjustable rear target sights on my revolvers in lieu of the simple fixed "combat" sights. Price wise, a 686 or Model 10 (.38 Spl) would probably be the cheapest purchase options. But the blued Model 19s are beautiful revolvers and a blast to shoot. I have a 4" 19-3 (1973) Texas Ranger Commemorative and a 2-1/2" 19-4 nickel snubby and I really like them both. I'm sure that the Model 66s are great too. Like you said earlier, maybe you need a Model 19 and a Model 66 to kick off your collection! Good luck with your search!
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Old 03-27-2024, 11:43 AM
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If you are going to shoot magnums, I would suggest L frame. Model 686 or it’s fixed sight brethren,Models 581 or 681.
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Old 03-27-2024, 12:23 PM
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I recommend adjustable sight guns, IMHO fixed sights are either for nostalgia or collectability.
I have often seen the M-19/M-66 described as a "38 that can shoot .357s" though some will dispute that. For steady shooting of .357s the S&W N or L frame-the latter was designed IMHO to compete with Colt Python/Trooper, I have seen few complaints that they cannot hold up to steady shootig of magnum loads.
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Old 03-27-2024, 12:53 PM
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I can't see the standard fixed sights well enough for my purposes, but the platforms are capable of the same accuracy. A standard .38 of reasonably modern manufacture (anytime 1930 or later, probably) will stand up fine to 38+p. The late member Art Doc/Saxon Pig posted a lot about his research indicating that modern +p is not that hot compared to old school .38s (especially the .38/44 load, which S&W allowed in any K or large platform).

Part of your decision making for the woods gun is what you reasonably might encounter. 2 legged predators and nothing bigger than a wolf or cougar, the 357 is fine. Most of the 4 legged critters want to avoid you unless they are sick, weak, etc. Depending on your climate, stainless might be preferable. I have a slightly customized 4" 66 (gold bead front sight and action job from the PC, round butted by BMCM) that I shoot well. I have qualified with stout-ish .357 loads (Silvertips), but for most uses prefer .38 SWC. If shooting a LOT of 357s, the L or even N frame are better choices. Very few will shoot more than a couple hundred full house .357 in a year due to expense. I happen to dislike the full lug barrel which eliminates most L frames.

There is little wrong with a 19/66 for starting out. You can shoot light target loads to train initially and make empties if you want to reload, then move up to heftier loads when you feel like it. LE learned that training/qualification with the target loads and then carrying duty ammo is not a good practice. I'll admit that most of my training is with auto-pistols as I started in LE during the transition period to those, but my first duty weapon was a .41 magnum (M 58).
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Old 03-27-2024, 03:53 PM
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Everyone started some place and 38/357 is as good a place as any. In the last 45 years, I have owned between 95 and 105 S&W revolvers and currently have 16. 4" guns are a standard for holster carry since WWII, but 5" and longer were common before that. That may be a holdover from Black Powder days.

The most common S&W revolver has to be the Model 10, called a M&P before 1957 model numbers never existed. The stainless equivalent is the Model 64 (Not old enough to have a name). I have owned several 10's and one 64, and find them to be a tried and true standard for firearms! The 4" guns I had all shot about the same accuracy. I stumbled into a 6" model 10-7 as it was being traded in. It is the most accurate fixed sight gun I have ever owned. You might wish the "Lengthen your List" when finding used guns.

As to 357's; they started in N frames, which can be considered heavy for all day/everyday carry. So, S&W brought out K frame 357's as duty guns. They have a few minor problems as a group (but not many problems as individual shooters). SO, S&W brough out the 586/686 series (581/681 is the fixed sight version). N-frame upper half, K frame grip, weight about in the middle. I had One 4", a "No-dash" with the "M" (for factory recall service), my brother had a 586 6". We found nothing that outstanding about the guns and opted for 4" or 6" N frames.

3" N-frames are a niche gun all their own, and worth a long look at.

I would like to invite you to a different area of S&W revolvers: The big bores! From turn of the Twentieth Century 44 Specials, through the WWI 1917's in 45 ACP, the 1920's with Steer carved grips, the late 30's in 357's, The Military Targets in 44 Special & 45 Colt to the "Dirty Harry Days" of 44 Magnum. There is also the "Cult Following" of the models 57 & 58, in 41 mag.

The Wonderful World of N Frames! My personal shortest is a 629-10 with a 2 5/8" barrel to my longest, a 29-3 Classic with a 8 3/8" barrel. There are dozens of variants, and always something new on the Horizon! As both a warning and an encouragement remember: IT ONLY TAKE ONE TO BECOME HOOKED! My first was and is my 4" Model 28-2, in 357, I shoot it with a fairly heavy loaded 180 grain load I developed for a companion carbine. The heavy load has a felt recoil of a target load in a 4" model 10!

Yes, N frames will pull your pants down, if you let them! They will also cure whatever ails you, if you give them a chance.

In addition to your N frames, you also NEED a brace of 22's. A K-22 (model 17/617) with a 6" barrel is considered to be one of the finest revolvers on earth. A Kit Gun (J frame 22 with 3 or 4 inch barrel) is also a fine gun for anyone outdoors.

This is totally outside the area you were looking at, and uninvited, however I didn't want you to wander around for years without knowing the JOYS (and expense) of the world of N-Frames.

Ivan
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Old 03-27-2024, 04:07 PM
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[QUOTE=Beauseph;141961614]I like the option of being able to load some 357 for the woods, if desired. How does the 10 hold up to .38 +P?[/QUOTEned

Get a model 19/66. Either is everything you need and nothing you don't need. They are the bestall-around pistols very made.

P/s I carried one or another daily for many years, and Never thought was under gunned.
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Old 03-27-2024, 06:17 PM
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You cannot go wrong with a 4-in Model 10 as a first revolver. It is the least costly option, there are plenty of good used revolvers for sale, it will handle all the 38 spl +P you want to shoot, and there are excellent modern hollow-point cartridges available.
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Old 03-27-2024, 06:19 PM
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No idea where you are but don’t rush into anything. By chance you live in a normal state where there are no crazy gun laws drive a little and save a lot. Go to some small town gun shows and see what there. Look up what and how to check any revolver for miss use or damage. By chance you know some one that is already “ into revolvers” ask them for help.
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Old 03-27-2024, 08:16 PM
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I would not rule out a nickel plated gun if you are concerned about the durability of a blue finish.
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Old 03-27-2024, 08:21 PM
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I'll throw a fly in the ointment. Let's not forget the about the 4in model 13/65's.
I definitely concur!
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Old 03-27-2024, 09:06 PM
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It's really hard to beat a Model 19. While prices are indeed climbing you can still find a clean pre-lock 19 for under a grand. I lucked into the one below at a local gun shop a year or two ago for around that price. Yes I know there are guys claiming they find these for $600 all the time, but they obviously don't live where I do.

And BTW not sure what your budget is, but if it's under $1500 don't rule out the new Colt Pythons either. Hopefully I don't get banned for saying that.
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Old 03-27-2024, 09:11 PM
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If I were to choose just one, it would be a 4” model 686.
I have a model 65 which is close to weight of the 4” 686 and have carried them both many hours a day in the hills and trails and in a sturdy holster and belt, I for one, cannot feel any difference in heft on the belt as the L frame is only 4 or 6 ounces heavier than the k frame heavy bbl. I have found the L frame to be the easiest to hit with and when in hand on target, that is where I feel a bit more heft in terms of stability/balance. I also have a 6” 686 and it balances a little more nose heavy but not problematic….
One might think about a shorter barrel such as the 3” or 2.5” L frame or the 2.5” model 66. Another favorite is the k frame model 15s’ with tapered 4” and now that is definitely a lighter feel also with excellent handling and accuracy…..I also have a 2” model 15 and it is a honey….the model 15 is a k frame .38 with adjustable sights that shoots +p quite well too….you have a lot to consider, good luck!
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Old 03-27-2024, 10:16 PM
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My first revolver was a 4" M-19. I bought it for its touted versatility, ruggedness, reasonable size/weight, ... It was a good choice and served me well for many years. For full-power .357s, the blast and flash really gets your attention out of a 4" barrel. I personally sure wouldn't want to try these in anything any shorter.

Later on I came across "deals too good to pass up" on a nickel 4" M10-6 and a blue 3" M10-7. Both of these are great guns. The 3" has become my favorite. Of all the guns mentioned so far, I would bet that your wife would find it to be her favorite too. Of course both of these guns are .38 Special Only but that's all most people shoot out of Magnums anyway.

I looked at your profile and didn't see a geographic location, so I don't know if wolf/cougar/bear encounters are a realistic possibility. If so, I would just suggest carrying one of your autoloaders. At least you'd have more shots (if it doesn't jam).
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Old Yesterday, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
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No idea where you are but don’t rush into anything. By chance you live in a normal state where there are no crazy gun laws drive a little and save a lot. Go to some small town gun shows and see what there. Look up what and how to check any revolver for miss use or damage. By chance you know some one that is already “ into revolvers” ask them for help.
I've reached out and most of my colleagues aren't into revolvers. WI is still mostly normal for now.
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Old Yesterday, 08:26 AM
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I would not rule out a nickel plated gun if you are concerned about the durability of a blue finish.
I was wondering about the nickel plated guns. I found a 19 that is nickel plated
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Old Yesterday, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
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My first revolver was a 4" M-19. I bought it for its touted versatility, ruggedness, reasonable size/weight, ... It was a good choice and served me well for many years. For full-power .357s, the blast and flash really gets your attention out of a 4" barrel. I personally sure wouldn't want to try these in anything any shorter.

Later on I came across "deals too good to pass up" on a nickel 4" M10-6 and a blue 3" M10-7. Both of these are great guns. The 3" has become my favorite. Of all the guns mentioned so far, I would bet that your wife would find it to be her favorite too. Of course both of these guns are .38 Special Only but that's all most people shoot out of Magnums anyway.

I looked at your profile and didn't see a geographic location, so I don't know if wolf/cougar/bear encounters are a realistic possibility. If so, I would just suggest carrying one of your autoloaders. At least you'd have more shots (if it doesn't jam).
There aren't a lot of critters to run into in WI unless you're far north. Most critters here are two legged.

I do venture out west often, at least yearly, for back packing excursions, hunting trips, etc. The plan is to eventually move out there too.
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Old Yesterday, 09:21 AM
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Re: OP. Welcome to the forum!!! Here you will find excellent people with a depth of knowledge that is encyclopedic. We welcome you and look forward to your participation.

Have done a fair amount of hiking, camping ranging from over night to a week. Have walked many a mile in the woods and fields. Have carried K, L and N frame revolvers, mostly chambered in .38/.357. For out and about hiking, camping, etc., I really like a four inch L frame ... 686 or 586 as the adjustable sights make it easy to get POI + POA with whatever load I am using. I am 67 years old and in reasonably decent physical condition. I do not find the tad bit of additional weight to be a problem. I carry using a Bianchi 111 Cyclone which I use cross draw. This prevents any problems when I am carrying my rifle on a sling. Also it allows me to zip my coat up over my revolver when the weather is wet. HTH. Sincerely. bruce.
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Old Yesterday, 10:00 AM
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I was wondering about the nickel plated guns. I found a 19 that is nickel plated
A nickel plated Model 19 would be an excellent choice. Nickel has been used as a durable finish for a long time, and they're pretty to boot! They do require some care, but aren't as fragile as some folks think.
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Well as you can see, ask and you will receive. There's A lot of great advice here, so now it a matter of personal preference. One thing I would recommend is getting a copy of "Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson, Forth Edition". If you want to do a deep dive and learn about the nitty gritty of whatever model your interested in this is invaluable. I down loaded a copy to my Kindle and go to it all the time. One thing I pay attention to are milestones in production that Smith has made over the years. A lot of them are common to all models. Like, when they added Model Numbers (1956), the dash numbers, Stocks (grips) discontinued the Diamonds (1968), Pinned and Recessed, 5-Screw, 4-Screw guns and on and on. Each model had long and rich history that is fascinating. As you can probably tell I drank the coolaid . Good luck, good hunting and enjoy.

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Old Yesterday, 11:49 AM
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Also, keep an eye on the classifieds here on the forums. I've seen some good deal but be quick. The good deals go fast.
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Either the 19 or the 66 depending on whether you want blue or stainless.
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Old Yesterday, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
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What should I look for in my first revolver?

It may be delegated to the wife's side of the bed since it's so easy to use ...

I'm going into this with limiting my purchase to one gun at this time. Like a, if you could only have one, which would it be ...

Any other insight, recommendations, pricing history, etc is greatly appreciated.
I would suggest a "K" or "L" frame revolver in 357 Magnum or second choice a 38 Special.

Revolvers require training and my wife prefers a 45 ACP 1911.

I would get a current production S&W 686 Plus four inch. If you like it then get others in the herd. I am not sure how often you shoot but getting into the Hobby of Reloading is highly recommended by me. Especially with revolver calibers and 50 years ago 38 Special the most affordable and now it is not.
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Old Yesterday, 11:05 PM
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I have no recommendation since I am a novice at S&W revolvers, however, after reading the posts I don't recall any mention of a method of carry. Since it seems the OP was looking for a woods gun, if weight is an issue would a shoulder or chest carry rig be a better option than belt carry?
Just wondering.
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Old Yesterday, 11:17 PM
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Default There should be loads of....

...model 10s to choose from. It was one of the most produced revolvers ever and now many people would rather have a semi auto. They don't come cheap, but there are plenty to choose from

And I'm also partial to the 686. I wouldn't worrry about the lock or even MIM parts but I would like to hold whatever I bought, or at least have an inspection period. Of course if you can find one pre-lock and pre-MIM, more power to ya!

For .357 I definitely prefer the 'L' frame over the 'K' frames but there isn't anything wrong with having a 'K' frame .357.
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