I'm not sure of this model. I think there where problematic as I read once before.

Anybody have the -2 and could verify if they were quality guns or was there teething problems with these first 625-2 guns.
This is the model of 1988 which is stamped and have the ramped front sight. I think these were only made in 1989.

Thank you!!

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I have never heard of or had any problems with the 625-2, the 1988 model is the most sought after model of that time. I only sold mine because I wanted to mount a red dot on it, and it was not drilled and tapped for that. Only the 625-4 and later were drilled and tapped for scope mounts.

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May God Bless The USA

Check out this thread as there should be some 25-2 specific information you may find useful.
Model 25 best and worst model or years?

I had one for a while. Shot well and gave me zero issues. OF course I had purchased it "well used".

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Dave

i have had no problems with mine

Some -2's came with the floating hand (not mine), which disappointed somebody's wife's brother's second cousin twice-removed. This was duly incorrectly reported on the internet and blown completely out of proportion. In stainless I have a -2, -3, and -6. They're all extremely accurate, all have approx. 451 throats, and none are for sale. The great advantage of the -2 (1988) is stamped vs. etched barrel markings which, to me, looks much better.

Except finding one at a reasonable price ,of course!


Allen Frame

Oh man-o-man, I want your gun!

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What is considered a reasonable price for a 625-2 these days?

When the Model 625-2 first shipped, a gun writer named J.D. Jones (American Handgunner) got one of the first and it had apparently been slapped together. It shot like ****, I remember, but what was faulty I forget. He returned it and they either sent him another bad one or returned the first one without fixing it. He savaged the gun and S&W for most of the rest of the year, I seem to recall.

I think I remember a few others, letters to editors or some such, who had poorly fit sixguns, as well.

I bought the first one I saw, s/n BDC06XX, on March 3, 1989. We didn't have the internet then. Mine was put together just fine, and I still have it. Several friends bought them and none of them had troubles, either.

There is nothing about the design of this model that is faulty. It is like any mechanical device, if it isn't assembled to specifications, there can be trouble. The demand was so high for this revover that I think S&W was in a big hurry to pump them out the door.

Reasonable would be anything $600.00 or less, but I have seen them go as high as $750.00 to $800.00 you just don't know.

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May God Bless The USA

I thought the 625-3 had the longer cylinder stop cuts and some other mods designed for the model 29/629 for hard use in competition. Supposidly the 625-2 lacked these features.

I own a 3" 625-3 (Model 1989), and it has the long cylinder bolt cuts.

The going rate for Stainless pre-lock N frames these days is $500. to $700. There is a 625-2 on an auction site right now for $700. buy now.
If I really wanted one and had the dough I'd not hesitate to get it.

RESEARCH the auction sites for completed auctions for the model you are looking for.
Have the auction site you use e-mail notify you when a gun of your search criteria comes up for sale.

It is a new world out there, the computer age is upon us. Use the tools available to assist you in finding what you want.

Good luck ,,Allen Frame

This seller won't do local transfers. I will have to pay the extra $35 + $40 at my dealer to mail the gun 30 miles.

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I have a 625-8 with the lock and I havent had any problem with my gun or lock with over 2,000 rounds put thru it. rz625-8

I can say that if you get a S&W revolver in 45 ACP, of the barrel length you like, that works 100 % you will have one great revolver...

I prefer a 45 ACP revolver to a 357 mag revolver...

I just picked one up at a auction 95% with box and tools plus an extra cyl and yoke for $475 I bid the $475 and I was was surprised I got it at that price and wasn't expecting the box and xtras as they weren't listed or with the 625-2 when we looked it over before the bidding started.
It shoots just fine.......

I just recently purchased a used 625-2 from a local gunshop. Timing, fit, finish, function, all are excellent. I have fired it single and double-action at 15 yds. Results have been simply outstanding. This is one of the most accurate handguns I have ever used or owned. JMHO. Sincerely. brucev.

I just bought a 625-2 that needs work from a local dealer. The gun was dropped with minor damage on the sights, but after I brought it home, I noticed it was altered by a want-to-be gunsmith and it's damaged where it needs a few parts that I don't have like a yoke and extractor. The hub was filed down smooth to the ratchets and the yoke tube is bent, crushed & straightened!

I sent it to the performance center a few days ago, so hopefully they will have the parts to get it working.

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"625-2 that needs work... dropped... altered... damaged..." That's bad. But short of catastrophic damage to the frame/barrel, etc., there is little that the S&W PC can not fix. When it gets back to you it will likely be as factory new. All you will need to do is take it to the range, load it up and start shooting! Sincerely. brucev.

I had the chambers reamed and chamfered on mine because it was a real pain to get a full moon clip to drop in. It works great now.

It's my understanding that that is a common problem with the -2's that was corrected by Smith on the later models.

I had the floating hand replaced at the same time just because I don't know of and good gunsmiths in my area and thought while I'm sending it off why not. I was told in rare cases the floating hand causes timing problems.

OK here is the "New" 625 I bought 2 weeks ago. It was broken and I sent it back to smith because it needed an extractor and yoke..
I asked to express the repair and got it back in 5 days!!!

Anyway I bead blasted it and added new sights so it looks new. Just finished it a couple hours ago.

When I took it apart to blast it they thru away the floating hand. They re-timed the gun nice too! (I checked it before and after) The preformance guys are top notch.

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I have a 625-2 that I purchased about 5 years ago. No problems what-so-ever. It reloads quickly with the full moon clips and shoots without fail with out them. One of my favorite revolvers. It is awesome accurate. Wife bought a set of Ahrends rb fingergroove grips in exotic wood and it fits my avarage hand to a tee. Mine is not for sale.

I did not get box, papers or tools. What box was this gun shipped with?

A dark blue cardboard box. The kind that hinges open.

In the 70's the boxes would separate in two half's.

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The three "fixes" that I know about going from the -2 to the -3 were:

1. Cylinder notches lengthened and deepened. This happened because of the .44 Mag 629 that would occasionally unlock under heavy recoil. It wasn't needed for the 625, but it was simpler to have one cylinder notch spec.

2. Elimination of the "floating hand". Probably a good decision, but one can replace it with a standard hand anytime it is desired.

4. Tight cylinder chambers. This wasn't completely fixed until the -4 model. Again, something that can be easily fixed with a chamber reamer. It isn't a problem with a typical range session followed by cleaning. But these guns were competition guns that would have 100-200 rounds at a time through them. I have to run a chamber brush through my -3 every couple of stages. With the -4, I can go a couple of matches.

In short, nothing wrong with the -2 that can't easily be corrected, if you want to.

Buck

I am not fond of stainless guns (prefer blue), but for a # of years I've owned a Model 626-6 Mountain Gun in .45 Colt that I would not willingly part with under any circumstances. I dressed it in Eagle grips to rid it of the round butt, and I promise the thing shoots better than I can by a considerable margin. I shot a few pix, but can't upload them 'til I find the cable dingus for
the computer. Then I will.
Only thing: I wish I knew when it was made (s/n is CARxxxx). I'd guess sometime in the '80s, since I think my 5" Model of 1989 was made later. (I won't part with it, either).
M. G. Smith

Here is an excellent article by John Taffin specifically on the 625-2. It thoroughly outlines the problems he ran into when trying to use some of the heavier bullets:

SMITH & WESSON'S 625-2

Of course, the simple solution to this is to have the cylinders reamed:

Cylindersmith.com Hand reamed cylinder throats

For those that reload here is an excellent general information article by John Taffin on loading and shooting various models of revolvers chambered for the .45 ACP/.45 Auto Rim:

Many good guns | American Handgunner | Find Articles at BNET

I have two 625's (a 625-6 Model of 1989 5" barrel and a 625-8 JM Special with 4" barrel) that I shoot extensively. I have not had to do ANYTHING to these revolvers but I did install a Bang, Inc spring kit on both (I tuned them to double action 9.0 lbs and single action 3.0 lbs and installed after market firing pins for positive ignition with all brands of primers).

As a matter of interest, my cylinder throat diameters are right at .452" and I can feel the heavier bullet's front band seat in the throat (they are also sized at .452") - that includes the Lyman 452664 Cowboy Bullet and the Lyman 454424 Keith bullet. I have not worked with these bullets extensively, as yet.

However, I have shot several thousand H&G #68 200 gr SWC and H&G #130 200 gr SWC with extremely good results. These will group well under 1" at 25 yards from both of my revolvers with 4.0 grs of Bullseye or equivalent. A suitable load of Unique behind either bullet will safely drive these bullets at over 1000 fps for an excellent SD load with match accuracy, also.

I cannot imagine a more satisfactory general purpose revolver. They are not ammo sensitive, seeming to shoot any reasonable load with match accuracy. That can be VERY satisfying:



This was shot standing at 25 yards on the NRA 25 yard slow fire target a few days ago. It was my personal best and I don't mind telling you, at my age it was VERY satisfying (74 years old). I have had both lens replaced (cataracts) and now have to use my left eye to shoot right handed, so this is particularly "heart warming" for a "Certified Old Fart".

A good example of these revolvers will greatly add to shooting satisfaction for anyone who frequents the range.

I would NOT be hesitant buying a 625-2, if I wanted one, but would be prepared to send the cylinder to Cylindersmith (or in my case, do it myself - Brownell's has the proper reamer and pilots for this job) to correct any minor cylinder throat problems. Keep in mind, if you don't reload, factory ammo will work "as is". It is only lead bullet reloads that have the problem. I shoot ONLY cast lead bullets and would want it "cast bullet friendly".

S&W's are not the only revolvers with cylinder throat problems. Ruger Single Actions in .45 Colt and .45 ACP are notorious for undersize throats in the newer guns. I have a Ruger Vaquero that I have competed with in BPCR side matches (black powder and fixed sights are a match requirement) that was slightly tight (.450"-.451") that was easily fixed and a brand new, just recently received a Ruger SS Bisley .45 Colt/.45 ACP convertible. The .45 Colt is just slightly undersize (.450"-.451") but the .45 ACP cylinder is WAY undersize that will not allow me to chamber my standard SWC cast bullet reloads. This will be solved shortly by reaming the cylinders.

It is interesting to me to note, that in Elmer Keith's "Sixgun Cartridges and Loads" (published in 1936) clearly stated the proper dimensions for cylinder throats and we still have issues with these. Manufacturers are apparently NOT interested in those that reload. Proper dimensions shoot extremely well with factory ammo as well as reloads and I can see NO downside, so why do we still have problems? Well, I have no answer for you but DO state that Smith now has their act together on the 625's and they are now MARVELOUS revolvers for the serious shooter.

FWIW
Dale53

I was actually communicating with JD during this period as I too had a gun that was a mess. There were a bunch of shooters who were appalled by these early 625's and Jones led the charge. American Handgunner printed one of my letters but they heavily edited it to protect their income. The 625 was the start of the British takeover of S&W and was led by Steve Melvin and a bunch of real slick advertising types. They gutted the custom shop and believed they could install CNC equipment and overnight rid themselves of expensive old time labor, etc.

Anyway there are some glaring problems with the early 625's and one of them is that the original Pachmayr grip screw interferes with the mainspring. As the spring is compressed it hits the screw and sort of creates a major stress point which in turn reduces the hammer drop power. It took them a while to catch on but they fixed it. My gun had a barrel that was crooked and not properly indexed, a hammer that was rubbing on the frame and headspace issues with moon clips — otherwise from a Ransom Rest it grouped well. It took me almost a year to get satisfaction from the S&W and finally they sent me a new gun. But I think JD Jones got himself into trouble from some magazines for crossing the line against an advertiser and telling it like it was

Regards