Greetings to All,

Background: My yin and yang are out of balance. Or maybe it’s my feng and my shui.
I am well armed (courtesy of the SIG Sauer semi-automatic pistol), but incomplete.
A man needs some wheelguns.
It’s in our DNA I think.

I have some wheelguns that were my Daddy’s (some of which I’ve posted about here).
But I sort of want to leave them retired.
And get me my own to train with, drag around, etc.

If I’m looking for something to carry...
And to supplement my SIGs...
My natural entry point, I’ve decided, is the j-frame.
(...in particular, in the .32 H&R Magnum caliber, which is a whole ‘nother story [and thread] )

Here is my QUESTION:

What are the pros and cons, the ins and outs of the Chief’s Special “style” vs. the Centennial “style.”

Here’s the areas it breaks down into for ME:

1- Aesthetics
They certainly look "different” but beyond that, it’s simply not worth talking about.
To each his own. De gustibus non est disputandum.

2- Use
a) the Chief’s can be fired DA or SA, whereas the shrouded Centennial is DAO
b) the Chief’s hammer could conceivably snag on the draw, whereas the Centennial has no hammer to snag.

Do you wise old heads go with Chief’s or Centennial because you like one “trigger” over the other?
Do you avoid the Chief for carry because of the hammer?
Or is your manual-of-arms just to put your thumb on the hammer on the draw, and... carry on?

3- Maintenance
My SIGs I can field strip in 15 seconds and get to everything I need to to clean and/or oil.
I have NO IDEA about the care and feeding of the j-frame revolver.
But I’m thinking...cylinder face, chambers, barrel the same on both the Chief’s and the Centennial.
But what about the Centennial hammer and other sundry parts UNDER THAT SHROUD?
Does daily shooting and proper cleaning need make the Centennial style more of an “issue” than the Chief’s style, with its direct access to the hammer, etc.
Or is everything copacetic to be just left alone under that shroud?
Or you need to be taking the side plate off regularly to clean under there?

4- Any other issues/differences I’ve overlooked between the Chief’s and the Centennial?

All comments, information and opinions much appreciated by this enthusiastic student !

James

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Happy to be here!

I had a chief's special, but since my J is always going to be pocket carried, I spun myself in circles about a possible (although admittedly remote) drawstroke hammer snag.

I considered bobbing my hammer, but found it easier to sell out of the hammered and go to Centennial.

I don't disparage those with hammers, but after really thinking about and carrying a hammered model, for me, I could never see myself needing to cock back a hammer and take a 'precision' shot. Hell, it's a snubby for cryin' out loud, and although I will NEVER be in a gunfight in my life...it's reeeeel difficult for me to imagine explaining to a jury how I was in imminent fear of death, but had the extra time and presence of mind to cock back my hammer for a 'William Tell' instead of beating feet out of the situation. (JMO of course)

The Bodyguard model 638 (shrouded hammer, humpback style) is something you might consider if you just HAVE to have that ability to go SA.

Cleaning and maintenance should be the same, although there is a school of thought that claims a Centennial will capture less pocket lint and debris in the mechanism due to being a more 'sealed' system. A rancher buddy of mine says all the hay he gets in his pockets really made a Centennial his best option.

There are many many owners of Smith revos who have never removed the sideplate, and truth be told, more damage has occurred to revos by removing a sideplate improperly or carelessly than has been prevented by it. Point being, you don't NEED to remove the side plate ever, but I can't help myself, and always do upon initial cleaning and then every few years.

Be advised, slideplate removal is not too difficult and shouldn't intimidate you, but you need to be really careful when removing it to prevent any screwdriver slips or chipping of the finish around the side plate seams. MPO is that the matte black ala 442 is a more durable finish than the matte silver which seems to wear quickly, especially on the backstrap and looks ratty in short order. (My experience with a recent production 642)

One thing I do like to do is remove the cylinder and crane from the frame, (which can be done w/o complete removal of the side plate...just the foremost screw) and flush that cylinder axis with BrakeCleen, let dry and then work in 2 drops of good lubricant like Weaponshield on those axis parts. Cylinder spins for days.

Hope that helps...good luck with your search.

Knuckles,

Thanks for your post. I hope I get a lot more!
You said JMO and MPO and such all through your post, and that is, of course, what I'm looking for.
Then it's my job to sort through all the various ideas, comments, opinions and information, and figure out what makes the best sense for me.

Best regards,

James

P.S. I too use Weapon Shield. Just think it's the cat's pajamas.

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Happy to be here!

James: Regarding the issues you mentioned above:

1) Aesthetics: I actually love the look of both styles. The Chief's Special is practically "THE" classic snub design, while the Centennial is streamlined, sleek, and beautiful. With that said...

2) Use: ...I only carry the Centennial. In a personal defense situation, there is no reason why I'd ever cock the hammer on a snub revolver. Police departments all over the country have mandated some variation of double-action-only (including semiauto actions like Sig's DAK and HK's LEM) for safety reasons, and I agree with their thinking. Also, the Centennial has nothing pointed or sharp that might tear clothing or catch during a draw, and it can be fired from a pocket without worrying that a hammer (or hammer-mounted firing pin) might catch on something and fail to fire.

3) Maintenance: With reasonable care, you could carry and shoot either model for a lifetime without ever having to remove the sideplate. A Model 640 Centennial that I bought 20 years ago this coming spring has never had the sideplate off since it left the factory, yet the action is still crisp, smooth, light, and perfectly reliable. Unless you drop the gun in sand, mud, or some other contaminant, it should be fine with just basic cleaning--no disassembly necessary. I use BreakFree CLP on my revolvers, and it keeps everything (barrel, cylinder, exterior, etc.) nicely clean and lubricated.

I did have a couple J-frames that came from the factory feeling like the actions were full of grit, so I took off the sideplates, brushed out and flushed out the actions with BreakFree, then closed them up again. If done correctly (removing the sideplate without prying or bending--I'm sure instructions can be found here on the forum), using the correct gunsmithing screwdrivers, it's a simple and harmless procedure.

4) The only other difference I can think of is something I read here on the forum--that the geometry of the hammer is different on the Centennial, which can make it feel smoother than exposed or shrouded hammer revolvers like the Chiefs or Bodyguard. I'm not a gunsmith so I can't confirm that, but I have definitely noticed a difference. Most of my revolvers are Centennials, and almost without exception I've found them to be smooth and easy to shoot right out of the box. Part of the reason might be that they're almost all from the early 1990's, when S&W was still hand-fitting forged parts, but even compared to Chiefs and Bodyguards from the same era, for me the Centennials have had an edge in overall smoothness and shootability.

What works for one person doesn't necessarily work for another, of course, so I'd suggest trying out both styles if possible, and choosing whichever you shoot best.

Boy, hard to add to whats already been posted! I would lean towards the centennial for it's snag free profile and ability to fire out of a pocket without hang ups. However just to be a bit difficult may I add the Bodyguard to the mix? It's a little of both with it's shrouded hammer.

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Stay safe people!

Another view of the maintenance of a revlover is, NONE! I have a rifle case full of revolvers that me and my wife shoot all summer long in bowling pin shoots and practice. This year was a little slow but other years the round count would be at least 5000+! Maybe once a week I run a brush thru the bore and cylinders other wise these guns get "cleaned" once, in the winter months. DO NOT soak the internals with oil! When dust and dirt collect in the oil it becomes lapping compound which produces wear on the internal parts! Again, once a year wash the internals with brake cleaner and one drop of oil on the pivot points and rebound slide!
jcelect

JamesD;
SweetKnuckles is right, IMO, as to use of the gun. When I decided
to get a "snubbie", I got a 642, even though I considered it to be
ugly as sin. It grows on you. Had the same thoughts as to a Chief's,
but, since I've gotten one of each, I find that I only fire DA now,
unless I'm shooting a .22 for plinking. Accuracy with the DA trigger
will come in due course. I, too, have noticed that the DA pull on the
642 is at least as good, if not better than, the DA pull on my M36.
The only suitable gun I had for CCW course was the 642, so I
got pretty good/passable in a hurry.
Of course, a spare snub-nose lying around is not a bad thing.
JMHO, TACC1.

I can only add that I have carried both as well as a Bodyguard (which I got rid of cuz I thought was butt ugly), and I have settled on the Centennial. At CQB distances I can shoot the gun very well. I would never go into an armed encounter with my revolver cocked (or my Sig for that matter) as it may not come to shooting and would not want to accidentally trip the trigger and open myself up to liability.

I'm sure the BrakeCleen doesn't help your finish any.

Since I carry the 5 shot S&W in my front pocket, been doing so for 35+ years, why not split the difference and tet the "Bodyguard".

With its hammer shroud it is "slick" out of the pocket, and you can still thumb cock if necessary.

If my choice was the Chief or the Centennial I would pick the Centennial.

My wife carries the Centennial.

Also, you can always "bob" the hammer of a Chief.

Buy them both and you'll have a choice. I have an early Bodyguard in excellent shape which I got guilty over and stopped carrying much as I didn't want to muck it up.
I do carry regular a model 36 with bobbed hammer and a model 37 DAO from factory. I carry all three in an Uncle Mikes pocket holster BTW and recommend them highly.
I like to keep it simple and always the same with my basicly DA J frames.

SweetKnuckles said it pretty well. I have a few things to add, but, in the end, I strongly favor the Centennial, although I really don't have a problem with a bobbed 36 or 37.

The Centennial is less likely to crud up in the first place. Although I am likely to have the sideplate off the first week I have the gun, it may not be off again for another ten years.

I still feel more comfortable having a gun capable of accurate aimed fire. However, for me, that does not eliminate the Centennial. At my present level, I can shoot DAO just as accurately as SA, although perhaps slightly slower (and more safely).

Since I would carry a J frame only bobbed, SA isn't an advantage I would count even if it really were an advantage.

It is much easier to holster a 36 or 37 safely than a 640 or even a 40 - just keep your thumb on the bobbed hammer, pushing it into the frame. With a Centennial, you have to be almost as careful as with a Glock, maybe even more so. When inserting a Centennial into a Renegade ankle holster, you should put your finger into the trigger guard BEHIND the trigger while forcing the gun most of the way into the holster. Remove your finger only when you have to. With a 37, all you have to do is keep your thumb firmly on the hammer, ready to slack off if something starts pushing against your thumb.

One LEO on this board recommended checking for free cylinder spin (hindered by high primers) after closing the cylinder. I agree with him, and do this with revolvers that have hammer spurs. Without a spur, and certainly without a visible hammer, this is something that you should not do except on the range, or out your back door in the country when you know where your wife and kids and neighbors are.

Despite the slight drawbacks, particularly the last, I still prefer a Centennial, especially a 40 or 42 with a grip safety. But a bobbed 37 is OK, too.

You can also check for high primers by placing you ammo on a flat surface or running the base of the cartridge over a ruler...

But I still always spin the cylinder...

If you are in the city you can use 8 to 10 inches of phone book at the muzzle while you do the spin test.

No defensive handgun round I know of will penetrate 10 inches of phone book.

I have them all, including some adj. sighted models. For defensive, everyday go-to-market carry, both my lady and I carry the centenniels. Maybe I got lucky, but both actions have what I call a two-stage trigger...move the cyl and lock up, then release. It's just like having a single action. My hammer wheel guns only go with me when I hit the "wilds" of the Pacific Northwest. However...whenever I'm headed to the Big Chitty, I've got a 1911 somewhere on my carcass, either with a Grip-clip or in a shoulder rig. You have to do what you have to do. Some folks like blondes, some redheads and me...I have a gorgeous brunette who looks simply wonderful with her cross-draw .38! Good luck and stay safe!

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Term limits!

I have carried centennials and chief specials. My current BUG is a 37-2 with the factory bobbed hammer. I shoot it better than the centennials.
My suggestion is try them both and get whichever one suits you best.

I've carried both and can't really see any major functional difference between them. I "retired" my Bodyguard when I got a 642 only because the 642 is +P rated. I think this is one case which can be decided by looks alone, and you will be well served by either choice.

I prefer the Centennial..yeah you can bob the hammer on a 60...but it still don't make it 100 percent reliable for firing in a coat pocket...and in the winter, I like to put it there with my hand on it for those late night walks to the car...

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Thirty characters. Exactly...

I have both the Chief's Special and the Centennial. I much prefer the Centennial.

I would have thought you'd prefer the Centenniel...

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Thirty characters. Exactly...

I pocket carry my M&P360 daily. I read an article in a gun magazine by Massaad Ayoob where he emphasized the importance of a cylinder check. That is pulling the hammer back slightly with muzzle pointed in a safe direction so that one can rotate the cylinder to verify no high primers etc. This article is why I chose the exposed hammer design. I'm difinitely in the minority, but I really am glad I chose this design. Drawing from my pocket is 100% snag free with my thumb over the hammer. It's second nature for me to draw this way. Go with the Chief's Special.

James D
The centenial (640) is an awsome configuration of the J frame. I have had one for almost 20 years like some others on this thread and it is my go to carry. With the centenial one thing is practice practice practice. If it is a little rough it will smoth out over use. Also in the beginning start out with some milder loads to get used to that little 5 shot and work up. They are a lot of fun and a real easy carry. (pocket,ankle,hip,etc) Oh I find if I carry my chief's special it is on my hip the centenial leaves alot more options for carry for myself. Only time I shoot my model 36(Chief's special) single action is plinking at cans etc long distance or with shot shells at a snake otherwise it is DA all the time.
Carl

I went with the 640 in 357 Magnum "Centenial Style".With the hammer shrouded it is ideal for pocket carry with a pocket holster.The shroud prevents snaging on the draw and acts to protect the internals from the debris that the gun can encounter when in pocket carry mode.As far as cleaning I take off the crane and cylinder and clean the entire surface area with breakthru and lubricate it with Militec-1 dry impregnated lube.Once a year I carefully remove the sideplate and clean the internals.I also take a few Q Tips and lubricate the trigger mechanism with Militec-1.That is all that is needed under the sideplate.For a carry gun the "Centenial" is a better option because you can only fire it in Double Action mode and elliminate the arguement that you terrorized the perpetrator by cocking the hammer back making him comtemplate being shot.You could of ran rather than shooting him because you had sooooooo much time....LOL.Be well and keep em in the 10 ring...Mike

My reason is this: I liked my M36 Chief for pocket carry, SA/DA choice and lightweight. But, traded for a M640-1 Centennial because I like the 38/357 option carry, covered hammer, extra weight, slightly longer barrel, smoother trigger pull and it's stainless. Plus, for me it's more accurate. However, I've found the 640-1 a little larger for pocket carry and now use a OWB holster.

Maybe I missed it, but I didn't see where the OP said whether he was going to carry his J-frame: pocket vs IWB? If you're pocket carrying, then I think that the Centennial is a better choice. If you're carrying IWB, then I think they are both equally viable.

Or...just get both.

TMann

I would pick Centenial, I believe that when you have it in your pocket you can just squeeze and not worry the hammer will snag on clothing or something. I think when a bg jumps on you and you shove the Centenial in to the bg's ribs and you can press your thumb where the shrouded part of the revolver you can make sure the gun points where you want.

Hey! Everyone!!

I’ve just been sitting back enjoying checking this thread everyday, reading what all everybody was saying, and just realized IT WAS MY THREAD.

And I haven’t been saying anything. Like being a bad host at a party! Let me make my amends.

First, I have read EVERY word of every post by everybody. Without trying to single out and respond to each, I’d just like to say thanks to everybody. This thread really did what I was looking for.

After due consideration and reflection, I think, mainly, I’m just an old man who is used to a world where... guns is s’posed to have hammers on ‘em. I think I’d sort of miss it if it wasn’t there.

I’ve sort of imagined having a Centennial, and I think it’d sort of creep me out knowing that there was a hammer in there somewhere but I couldn’t see what it was up to. :-)

Plus, the issues of spinning the cylinder for high primers (which I actually have heard reference to before) and having a trigger to keep your thumb on when holstering make great sense to me. The latter, in particular is a (cousin to the) habit I have developed with my SIGs to insure the slide doesn’t come out of battery on reholstering.

Finally, I have a Model 36 and a Model 37 that were My Daddy’s Two J-Frames, from the ‘60s and early ‘70s respectively, which I do not really want to make into daily carry guns. They are extremely clean, and I’d rather retire ‘em than carry ‘em. But I have carried the 36 for just a couple of days here to get the feel of it (in a Mika that I picked up at some point). And I find that my thumb goes quite naturally to the hammer. Actually it’s sorta difficult to put it anywhere else (harder to make a fist in your pocket than a “knife hand”).

So, all things considered, I am going with... drum roll please... the Chief’s Special.

I know I’ll be in the minority. Just me and Robert B I think.
But it just feels like it's what's right for me.
And, plus, there’s little doubt that I will end up doing a “semi-bob” on it (modeled after one of doc540’s and another I saw but can’t remember whose).

Nothing’s perfect in this world. But this is what I think will please me the most and work the best for me.

Thanks, everybody.

JamesD

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Happy to be here!

We'll something tells me that this thread isn't over yet anyway. Seems we get very passionate around here on our J frame preferences.

Congrats on your decision!! Now go out and fine a nice one .

FWIW, your not totally in the minority, despite having owned bodyguards and centennials myself, my two current and longer term carry guns are a 360PD and Mod 60. For my needs (which sometimes require SA shooting), they work best. BTW, both have bobbed hammers which I think is a worthwhile (1hr?) project. Here is my mod 60.

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Dave

Thanks for the reply Wee/Dave.

And sure, if this thread has some life in it yet fine with me, passion about things is a good thing!

Couple of questions for you?

Is that a Barami Hip Grip I see hiding on the back side of your 60?
Do you carry per it a lot?
How do you like it?
DOES YOUR 60 EVER HOP OFF YOUR BELT? LIKE...WHEN YOU SIT DOWN OR BEND OVER OR SUCH?

And...

You mention shooting SA. With the 60 you have pictured?
Is that enough hammer to cock with???

Best regards,

JamesD

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Happy to be here!

Sorry I didn't see this thread sooner. To me the ONE reason to have SA ability on a pocketable J-frame is the high-primer or crud in the BC gap issue, which is enough of a rarity with a clean gun and high-quality ammo that I don't sweat it. I carry Js as backups almost every day, and they are all either Centennial types (usually a 342Ti), a 37-2 with bobbed hammer, or an old no-dash 37 I bobbed myself. (Which, BTW, can be cocked by starting the hammer back with the trigger and then cocking it.) I recently picked up a Ruger LCR with Lasergrips, and that ugly little rascal has no exposed hammer, either. (Has a WONDERFUL trigger, though!)

Since I sold my old no-dash 60, the only carry-snubby I have that has any hammer spur is my Colt Magnum Carry, and I've removed about 35-40% of its hammer spur in more of a "recontour" job. It is only ever carried in an ankle rig that protects the stubby hammer, and its DA pull is actually about a half pound lighter than its SA!

I had to chime in for the Centennial also I carry the 340PD

Someone already mentioned checking ammo for high primers by placing the rounds on a table or using a straight edge....

Am I the only person who thinks loading your revolver, then pulling back on the hammer or trigger and "spinning" the cylinder to check for out of spec rounds is one of the dumbest ideas ever put forward. Sounds like a technique used by The Cisco Kid and Pancho!

I was taught that after loading your revolver that one should not handle the controls until you are ready to shoot. Playing with the hammer or trigger of a loaded revolver is just asking for trouble.

And am I to believe this idea orignates from the "don't disconnect a safety", "don't shoot reloads" and "there's a personal liability lawsuit waiting" after every shooting school of thought?

But then there are people who believe that Barack Obama will help us by fixing the "broken" health care system....

9303: You're not the only one.

Believe it, or not, there are ways to check for high primers - other than spinning the cylinder on a live cocked revolver.

I have several Model 36s, 60s and Centennials. My primary carry is a Centennial style 642. High primers can be checked for on ANY uncocked revolver by spinning the cylinder full rotation when it is just barely unlatched. MA is right, high primers should be checked for on a self defense gun - but it doesn't have to dictate what gun you choose.

My main reason for moving to the 642 was the "sealed" hammer design. I live in a dirty world (don't we all ?) and have a terrible problem with debris falling into the space between the hammer and frame on M36 / 60 type guns when I pocket carry. The Centennial does not have this problem. I have also become very fond of the way the DA trigger stages on this model.

Now, that said, I don't think anyone truely believes that Barack Obama will help us by fixing the "broken" health care system (there can't be anyone really that stupid)...

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Mitch
SWCA 2438

Yes that's a Barami. I love the concept personally. No bulk or install grief with holsters. Just stick it in my waistband and go. It also rides low and conceals better than many holsters IMHO. I wear this gun in this fashion most of the time I carry. It has never come loose on me in the slightest. The cylinder of the gun sits below the belt so my belt tends to hold it down/in till drawn. My only gripe with the barami's is that they are plain Jane and a little slick. I'm thinking about ordering a wood set from collinscraft.
Yes, there is enough hammer there to cock with (easily) but you need to modify your motion a bit. I generally get my thumb on the hammer and then put just enough pressure on the trigger to move the hammer back a hair then take over with the thumb. It becomes second nature and one fluid motion with very little practice. Likewise, I decock by pulling the trigger and riding the hammer down with my thumb. (As long as you let the trigger return freely, the hammer block safety will reset before the hammer gets close to its seated position.) FWIW, I have three snubies with bobbed hammers. ( 60, 380pd and mod 64) I generally only use the SA feature on any of them when checking for cyl rotation and "plinking" on woods walks. Nice feature to have when you want it though.
hth

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Dave

Dave,

Can you please elaborate on the short passage I pulled out of your above post.

Again, I've been shooting for 50 years, but way sort on "detail" when it comes to the S&W revolver.

I've been "playing" with my Daddys 36 and 37 (unloaded). Trying to listen to all the little clicks it makes as you draw the hammer back. Watching all the little timing stuff go on. Trying to figure out just how this mechanism "thinks".

So, my question... trying to figure out how the hammer can be "returning freely" when you're riding it down with your thumb, the overall action of the hammerblock safety, etc.

Oh, I've got so much to learn. But I WILL NOT operate a machine without understanding it. (Any machine, but especially this kind!) And the only way I know to learn is to read and/or ask questions.

Thanks for any help on this!

James

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Happy to be here!

Ok first, for legal reasons, I'm NOT advocating anybody pull the trigger on a loaded gun to cock it. I'm also not advocating anybody modify their own gun or imitate what I've done in anyway. It can be unsafe if done incorrectly.
I'm merely describing on how I do it (at my own risk and often on an empty gun.). That said, here is what I do.

With the bobbed revolver in my shooting hand ,pointed in a safe direction, I rest my thumb on top of the hammer stub like I was going to thumb cock the gun. I then (with my trigger finger) start putting increasing pressure on the trigger until I feel the hammer start to move back. Once the hammer is back only a 1/8-3/16"" or so there is enough exposed top surface of the hammer to get a good purchase on it with my thumb. I then use a curling motion with my thumb to firmly catch the hammer and complete the cocking motion. This transfers the cocking force from the trigger to the hammer in one motion. Note it's important I take my finger OFF the trigger as soon as my thumb takes over so I don't pull through. ( My thumb locked down on the hammer somewhat prevents this anyway, but it's important to be safe as possible.)

The decock I do is just the reverse of this action but I also use the thumb and forefinger of my left hand to firmly pinch the hammer and ride it down to the last 1/8" of drop (with finger off the trigger immediately after the sear/hammer is released.) At that point the trigger has come forward and allowed the hammer block safety to reengage. There is also very little inertia in the hammer/spring so I can just let it slip the last 1/8" ( again with the gun pointed in a safe direction.)

BTW: When I first started learning this procedure, I would purposely allow the hammer to drop along it's arc from different positions ( on an EMPTY GUN!) while closely watching behind the cyl for the firing pin. What I noticed was the point on the gun where the hammer block safety engaged/kept the FP from popping through the frame towards the (empty) cyl. I think it's important to know my gun's parameters if I'm going to be doing this type of manipulation.
hth

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Dave

Thanks, Dave.

I myself completely understand that describing what you may do is never to be construed as giving advice or a recommendation to someone else. But it never hurts to add a disclaimer.

Thanks for the step-by-step of your procedure.
Especially the last little paragraph where you describe your experiments ON AN EMPTY GUN with how the various components behave at different points in the arc.

That's very much what I'm trying to do with this new type of "machine" I want to master:
watch, observe, learn, understand.

Thanks for your time.

JamesD

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Happy to be here!

Didnt read all the replys so dont know if I have anything new. To me a J frame is a pocket gun. A hammer spur does not belong on a pocket gun to snag and rip your pants or get you killed. Why wear a J on your belt? If you want a belt gun you can as easily carry a 3" or 4".
Bob that hammer to where you can carefully cock it for single action if you really want to. I carried a "bobbed" model 60 for many years untill it was stolen along with my truck. I replaced it with a old model 40.
Just today I stuffed it in a nice old holster that I forgot I owned and just found. No point in it, just will try it out for a few outings. In winter I always used to like carrying a snub in a jacket pocket, and just in my front pants pocket in summer. Done that for about 40 years off and on. Some of my uniform coats used to have a special inside left side butt forward pocket sewed in with a snap strap. Those were the best I ever found. Now for that set up the hammer didnt need to be bobbed, but for everthing else I liked a bobbed hammer or model 40. I do own a old 2" model 34 that I have been debateing on bobbing, but really I dont carry it that much so probley wont.

My old model 60 # R 4266. If you see it, its hot and I want it back!



The model 60s replacement, a old model 40. I have the pocket holster, but most the time just carry it loose in my pocket.

BTW,
Here is a pic of my 360pd which has a bobbed hammer. Notice the hammer stub is considerably smaller than the older mod 60 (no dash) I posted. The newer J frames have a MIM hammer too which is considerably smaller (and pointier) than the old versions. They "Bob" differently.
hth

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Dave