Strain screw length

[329]

Does anyone know the strain screw length for a 629-6 round butt? Me thinks the previous owner did minor surgery. Thanks.

[stang1911]

.505" OAL and .380" under the head for Rd Butt

[jeffrefrig]

Coincidence, but I bought the same gun in 6" barrel, used. At the gun shop it had one of the nicest trigger pulls. I found out previous owner loosened up the screw to lighten up the action the 1st time I had it out. Several light strikes in double action. 1 1/2 turns on the screw to tighten it and it's been fine ever since. Not sure what your previous owner did, but I got off lucky. S&W will send you a new screw if you ask or need one.

[toad67]

You can always put a used primer over the end of the screw to confirm your problem.

[329]

Originally Posted by toad67

You can always put a used primer over the end of the screw to confirm your problem.

I cannot get the primer in between the spring and frame? Any suggestions? I put a .0.015 shim between the screw and spring and we are at 10 lbs 10boz now.

[329]

Originally Posted by stang1911

.505" OAL and .380" under the head for Rd Butt

I'm .470 and .345...looks like som shaving has been done. Thanks for the help.

[rct269]

The factory tells us the strain screw is to be TIGHT-----PERIOD!!--and not messed with. We, collectively, think different----and oft times get ourselves in all kinds of trouble.

Then there's Jerry Miculek, he of fame and fortune, who's perhaps best known for some VERY fast (and accurate) shooting with S&W handguns. He is also known for his spring kits----from his company (BANG, INC.). I don't know the first thing about any other spring kits, but I can tell you his is the neatest thing since sliced bread---primarily because you can set the double action trigger pull to whatever floats your boat----just so long as you don't go below 7 lbs---below which he tells us your gun may not go bang. He also tells us to use Federal ammunition/primers at that level.

Setting the trigger pull to suit you involves loosening the strain screw to the point you achieve your goal, then measuring the amount the screw head protrudes from the grip frame, and then removing that amount from the other end.

The amount was .090" in my case, which I dutifully removed---and then tightened the screw----TIGHT---and leaving it alone from then on. It worked like a charm for me---gave me 7 lbs.-----and even works with WW ammo---because I didn't have any Federal.

Try it----you'll like it!

Ralph Tremaine

As an aside, the $20 dollars or so you'll spend for his spring kit AND the instructions will be the best $20 you've ever spent; and provide greater benefit than all the fiddling you've ever done------or ever will do.

[329]

Originally Posted by rct269

The factory tells us the strain screw is to be TIGHT-----PERIOD!!--and not messed with. We, collectively, think different----and oft times get ourselves in all kinds of trouble.

Then there's Jerry Mickulek, he of fame and fortune, who's perhaps best known for some VERY fast (and accurate) shooting with S&W handguns. He is also known for his spring kits----from his company (BANG, INC.). I don't know the first thing about any other spring kits, but I can tell you his is the neatest thing since sliced bread---primarily because you can set the double action trigger pull to whatever floats your boat----just so long as you don't go below 7 lbs---below which he tells us your gun may not go bang. He also tells us to use Federal ammunition/primers at that level.

Setting the trigger pull to suit you involves loosening the strain screw to the point you achieve your goal, then measuring the amount the screw head protrudes from the grip frame, and then removing that amount from the other end.

The amount was .090" in my case, which I dutifully removed---and then tightened the screw----TIGHT---and leaving it alone from then on. It worked like a charm for me---gave me 7 lbs.-----and even works with WW ammo---because I didn't have any Federal.

Try it----you'll like it!

Ralph Tremaine

The screw is tight but short. Thanks for the reply.

[rct269]

Originally Posted by 329

The screw is tight but short. Thanks for the reply.

Fine! Get a new screw AND Miculek's spring kit. Now that I think about it, you might want to get several screws. Then you can fiddle around to your heart's content.

[BC38]

Originally Posted by 329

I cannot get the primer in between the spring and frame? Any suggestions? I put a .0.015 shim between the screw and spring and we are at 10 lbs 10boz now.

Easy peasy.
1) Make sure you remove the guts of the primer (anvil etc.).
2) Back out the strain screw until it isn't even touching the spring
3) Keep backing it out until you can put the primer cup over the end of the screw
4) Hold it in place as you screw it back in until it touches the spring.
5) Keep turning it until it is all the way in and snug.

VOILA' you're done!

[Mike, SC Hunter]

Originally Posted by toad67

You can always put a used primer over the end of the screw to confirm your problem.

Been there......Done that.

[rct269]

A question arises-------------------

"What's in the spring kit?"

The regular stuff---mainspring (odd looking little fella, with a forward bend about 3/8"-1/2" down from the top), rebound slide spring, and the instructions.

Now if you're anything like me, you don't need any instructions to replace a couple of springs; so I didn't bother with those----at least the first time around. Nothing would move after the first time around---gun's locked up as tight as a tick.

The moral of this story is read the instructions---and follow the instructions---they were written by a very hip dude!

Ralph Tremaine

[s2harry]

So I saw a video forget who gunsmith. He showed that if you loosen the strain screw the hammer spring touches the rebound slide or something. Like my explantation?

[rct269]

The "or something" in this case was the mainspring was jammed up against the under side of the hammer; right at the apex of the "forward bend" of the spring I mentioned-----and nothing would move. The most embarrassing part of all that was it was as plain as day as soon as I popped the sideplate off---the second time around. (But like I said, I don't need any instructions to replace a couple of springs------at least sometimes.)

I don't recall the why of it, but the bottom line is simply replacing the springs is only half of the job. Then comes the measuring and the cut to suit part-----insignificant, little minor details like that---which are neither insignificant nor minor----just simple---and more than a little bit clever---especially AFTER you follow the instructions. Then you get to go from "nothing would move" to 7 lbs.----or whatever you want.

Ralph Tremaine