Older M29 - Cylinder Skip

[mikero]

I have a M29-2 from the late 70's that is OCCASIONALLY skipping. It may go 80-100 trigger pulls just fine and normal, then skip one, or skip several in succession. Notice it more in DA. The hand appears to be functioning normally and the hand spring is working fine and correctly installed. I have tried to lightly "hold" the cylinder from turning with my fingers while pulling DA - it pulls right through and turns cylinder nice and normal. One thing I have noticed: barrell/cylinder gap seems really tight on left side, like about .001 ! Right side gap is more like .003. Tight compared to my other Smiths and not the same on both sides. This is a 8 3/8" P&R -2 model. It appears to be over my S&W capabilities head and is headed for certified gunsmith very soon, UNLESS one of you guys can advise me on what else to try. Super nice and clean older 29, can't stand to have it not "right"! Frustrated in Tulsa - MikeRo

[500 Magnum Nut]

Get over to the smithing section and click the faq sticky on top. Read about endshake and sing adjustments. I'd figure it needs a good cleaning inside and a little adjustment to the hand. When you tighten up the endshake the lock up will improve too.

[mikero]

I have cleaned it inside & out and used some good Teflon oil which did help slick it up some. Will check out end shake info as you said. Never have adjusted end shake but will see if I think I am up to it. Thanks for reply, 500!

[Joni_Lynn]

Is the cylinder stop free to move and not feel like it's slow or sticky in its movement?
If it needs work let me recommend you have S&W do it, if someone make a mistake on it it'll end up there anyway.
If it has end shake Brownell's should have the shims to correct it.

Welcome to the forum.

[mikero]

Joni, the cylinder stop is free and works easily. Once it locks it is well locked. I will check out the end shake and thanks for reminding about Brownells, I need some screwdrivers from there too. Gun has been apart and back together 3 times now, by me, first to re-spring with Wolff's and totally clean and lube, then to see what I did wrong when I noticed the intermittent skipping. New gun to me. Probably was shot single-action by previous owner most of the time, a friend of mine. More reliable that way. Looks like no re-assembly goofs by yours truly, I use the Kunkhausen book and pay attention... Thank You, have a good weekend.

[tennexplorer]

Did you replace the cylinder stop spring also?

[mikero]

no sir, I never have needed to before (on other S&W's)although on this older revolver maybe it could use a fresh one.
I just do the mainspring and trigger return, reduced power for target shooting. That is my habit with them, when I buy a used Smith. Take apart, detail clean, lube w/ teflon oil and put in one of Wolff's "shooter's packs" for a improved trigger. Some get a pro action job but most do not. Will keep your idea in mind, thanks for reply! MR

[Gort]

The most common skip I have seen is from the shooter aborting a DA trigger pull and resuming the pull. Sometimes not even consciously.
Gort

[cgt4570]

As Joni Lynn said, the most likely fix would be a stronger cylinder stop spring. The 29-629s are known to do this. I used to have a 629-1 that would sometimes skip with heavy loads. It would unlock after firing, back up a bit, then on the next shot, the previous spent case would be in line.
They corrected this problem, first with the 29-3E (endurance package), then incorporated the fix into regular production. Search the forum for more info on the endurance features.

[Skip357]

Call smith up and ask for a blue cylinder stop spring it will make stop come up stronger

[texmex]

S&W was in denial of this for years until someone made a high speed movie of a Model 29 in recoil. The momentum of the cylinder stop trying to remain still while the revolver recoiled up would unlock the cylinder. The cylinder would them try to remain still while the frame rotated from the torque. If this happens to make the cylinder rotate backwards just a little, the next pull of the trigger just brings up the already fired cartridge. Engineering changes started correcting this with the "endurance package" on some of the 29-3 models and it was fully incorporated on the 29-4 model. The same changes were incoroporated on the other concurrent N frame models. I believe part of the fix was a stronger spring on the cylinder stop. If I remember correctly, the problem started when they eliminated the screw in front of the trigger guard. The new arrangement didn't put as much upward pressure on the cylinder stop. The heavier the bullet, the more apt it was to do this. I even had it happen with a (sort of) mild load of a 240 gr. SWC over 10 grains of Unique. I'd replace the cylinder stop and spring if I was having this problem on a 29.

[mikero]

I never would have thought to do the cylinder stop spring until you guys let me know. A relatively easy and CHEAP fix. But I chickened out Sat. and took the 29-2 to a S&W certified gunsmith in Tulsa. Did not read all the later posts, I have no PC at home. Thing that concerned me, and my ability to potentially make a big mistake, was the barrel/cylinder gap being about .001 on one side and .003 or so on the other. So I get to pay the 'smith... The revolver is just WAYYY too nice (and valuable) for me to screw up. I am no gunsmith. I work on my own guns when I think I can handle it but I am "shadetree" and no professsional. I just wanted to get it done, can't stand to have one of my babies not functioning at 100 percent. I bought this one 'cause it is so slick and such a good investment. Although it is VERY accurate I will likely not shoot it much at all, if I am in a .44 Mag mood I have a Ruger Super Blackhawk that is my 'go to' gun for that caliber. I shoot my Model 19 with .38's more than anything else.... I like a K frame better than anything for just shooting. Thanks again - MR