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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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  #1  
Old 01-02-2010, 09:39 PM
Robert B Robert B is offline
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Default Titanium cylinders

It seems to me that I have read a lot of posts over the last year stating the drawbacks of titanium. What are the pro's and con's of titanium cylinders?
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Old 01-03-2010, 08:18 AM
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They come on guns with locks and made with MIM parts. Just kidding,I have no idea,good question.
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Old 01-03-2010, 09:27 AM
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The big advantage is strength without as much weight as steel. Rust-free, also.
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Old 01-03-2010, 10:24 AM
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Default The Disadvantages

- The expense.

- It requires extra care when cleaning, you can’t use anything abrasive. If you damage the surface finish, the metal degrades quickly. Follow the manufacturers recommendations and you’ll be fine.

- They’re ammo sensitive. You’ll typically find those ammo restriction written right on the barrel. My 296, 340PD and 342Ti all have different barrel warnings. Some magnum loads with light bullets can erode the front of the cylinder firing just a few rounds. Heavier bullets (jacketed and lead) can also cause a problem, where the gun acts a bullet puller for the remaining cartridges in the cylinder under recoil. In some cases the bullet(s) can extend past the cylinder face, seizing the gun. Follow the manufacturers recommendations and you’ll be fine.

Check out the photos in this thread.
Disappointed with the 340 scandium
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Old 01-03-2010, 02:25 PM
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i like titanium cylinders i have a 242 and a 646 none pc
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Old 01-03-2010, 03:07 PM
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I have never had a problem with Titanium cyls. I have them on 242, 646.

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Old 01-03-2010, 04:26 PM
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what type of brush do you use to clean them? obviously steel brushes are out. just wondering.
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Old 01-03-2010, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
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what type of brush do you use to clean them? obviously steel brushes are out. just wondering.
Mostly just an old toothbrush. Ordinary bore brush through the chambers.
One of the first things is to GET OVER the idea that the cylinder should not show any stains or firing marks. Just clean off the residue and leave the stains on the front of the cylinder in peace.
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Old 01-03-2010, 06:51 PM
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By ordinary bore brush do you mean brass?
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Old 01-03-2010, 08:22 PM
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First, let me say that I don't have a Ti cylinder, but as I understand it, you have to be very careful about rounds losing crimp and backing out therefore tying up the gun.
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Old 01-03-2010, 09:06 PM
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I have a 646 and a 329; both are what Skeeter Skelton used to call "Sunday guns" - carried more than shot. No problems - maybe if I shot them more the story would be different. The 329 has only had one cylinder full of .44 magnums. And won't be having any more with me, I don't care what kind of grip is on it. Like rburg, I think it's a great .44 Special. The 646 is a hoot. Mine is the "second" model of them with 686-style barrels and underlugs. It's a keeper.
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Old 01-03-2010, 10:22 PM
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I've had the cylinder on my 342 refinished in diamond kote. It gives a harder surface finish than the clear coat and powder residue wipes off with a rag.
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Old 01-04-2010, 12:43 AM
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Quote:
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By ordinary bore brush do you mean brass?
Yes. My 646 cylinder chambers clean very easily with a quick brush and mop. I leave them dry, as they cannot rust.
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Old 01-04-2010, 10:56 AM
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I've put many rounds thru my 332. Clean it with brass brush. The 'bullet pull' mentioned by s&wchad is not a function of the cylinder but a result of an overly light gun, which the titanium contributes to.

I find the cylinder no more of a problem than any other.

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Old 01-04-2010, 04:02 PM
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I have the 329PD, and all I ever do is, a brass bore brush down the barrel, through the cylinders, and Never Dull polishing wadding on the cylinder face. Back in the holster, and back on my belt.
I don't have light loads in the .44. With feral hogs right out my front door, its a stout loaded 240 gr. Laser Cast bullet. I do have the X frame S&W Hogue grips on it. I do use Past Recoil control gloves, when I remember them, and not loading trailers, splitting wood, or working on a piece of junk that broke.
I guess you would say, mine gets no special treatment, other than to make sure none of the bullets jump their crimp, when firing.
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Old 01-08-2010, 01:15 AM
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I have found that with my 340 M-Pro7 and a tooth brush/ AP brush works great for cleaning the carbon off the cylinder.
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Old 01-08-2010, 08:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeyJoe View Post
By ordinary bore brush do you mean brass?
Yes, brass is ok.

It isn't so much that the cylinders are ammo sensitive as that their lightweight makes the gun they're in ammo sensitive.

One potential drawback is that the combination of the Ti cylinders and the integral lug on the Al or Sc frame can result in a wear situation where the lug wears down and the cylinder is no longer held on the crane.

Final note: there are Ti-cylinder guns without the lock. I have a 342, 342PD and 396 that have no lock. There are others...
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Old 01-09-2010, 06:13 AM
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Default Titanium Cylinders

I have a PC 327 with a short 2 inch barrel 8 shot. I shot 125 grain .357 Magnums through it and with 100 rounds flame cut the face of almost every chamber hole. I returned it to the performance center for repair with a note that if they were having problems with the titanium cylinders to replace it with a 8 shot stainless steel cylinder from a 627 which they did. I noticed the new night guard revolvers have a matt finished stainless steel cylinders now.
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327, 329pd, 340, 340pd, 627, 686, crimp, hogue, lock, performance center, scandium, skeeter, skelton, titanium

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