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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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  #1  
Old 02-01-2010, 11:25 AM
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Default Donuts on my 686 Cylinder

I get quite frequently "donuts" on the front of my cylinder. Even Hoppies #9 with a toothbrush won't take off. I have heard there is a type of "treated cloth or rag" that is good for removing these donuts. I cannot recall what the name is of this cloth. Could someone please enlighten me on its name. Here is a picture of one that i simply cannot get off. Thanks guys.
Carl

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Old 02-01-2010, 11:31 AM
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I still have an old Lead Remover Cloth from Hoppes. It works pretty well. I found this listing on Midway: Tipton Metal Magic Rust and Lead Remover Gun Cleaning Cloth - MidwayUSA

These cloths work fine on Stainless Steel. DO NOT USE on a blued gun.

Rick
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Old 02-01-2010, 11:32 AM
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Try Simichrome it only takes a dab on a rag and it will be clean and polished. I use it my 460 XVR.
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Old 02-01-2010, 11:34 AM
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That is normal buildup of carbon etc form firing. I clean off as much as possible with a patch soaked in Hoppes#9 - what remains has never interferred with the operation of the revolver.
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Old 02-01-2010, 11:36 AM
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Talking Donut removal

I found that Scotchbrite pads will take it off very easily. Just for the record, those are not donuts. Is that cop talk for powder stains of the face of the cylinder.
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Old 02-01-2010, 11:53 AM
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I also use a lead removing cloth. does the trick everytime and does it very easily.
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Old 02-01-2010, 11:54 AM
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I use Nevr-Dull wheel cleaner on stainless steel. Find it at Wal-Mart.
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Old 02-01-2010, 12:17 PM
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I use a product called "Wipe Away" a treated cloth. Just cut a piece off and it cleans wonderfully. Made by Belltown, LTD, Kent CT.
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Old 02-01-2010, 12:18 PM
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leave it...it gives it character.

Last edited by RychenCop; 02-01-2010 at 04:53 PM.
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Old 02-01-2010, 12:56 PM
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Be careful with using anything too abrasive on the face of the cylinder, the exit throats should be kept sharp and uniform, like the crown on your barrel's muzzle since they perform a similar function when the revolver is fired. Damage caused by improper cleaning can degrade accuracy. It hurts nothing to leave the powder fouling on. If you need to clean it, soak the cylinder in a solvent or use Slip 2000's Carbon Killer and wipe it off. Let the chemicals do the work.

Mike
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Old 02-01-2010, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marshal tom View Post
I found that Scotchbrite pads will take it off very easily. Just for the record, those are not donuts. Is that cop talk for powder stains of the face of the cylinder.
I never understood why people made fun of us for eating donuts. They never make fun of nurses, electricians, etc., for eating them....
Then again it may have to do with the pot bellies that some officers carry around.
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Old 02-01-2010, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Be careful with using anything too abrasive on the face of the cylinder, the exit throats should be kept sharp and uniform,...
Excellent point. Lead Away cloth, or any other abrasive, can "dish out" the chamber mouths. I just clean loose carbon off with Hoppe's and don't worry about the discoloration.
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Old 02-01-2010, 02:05 PM
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I use the green scotchbrite pads or semichrome
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Old 02-01-2010, 02:10 PM
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I just use some Hoppe's and a couple of swipes with a bronze utility brush. That won't get rid of the burn marks (I don't care about those) but makes sure any carbon or fud that may be building up is removed, and a bronze brush certainly isn't going to do any harm to the stainless steel (I use a stiff, short bristle nylon brush on my blued guns).

I don't like the lead-away type clothes and such. Aren't they actually removing metal? I thought that's how they worked, but actually removing a layer of the steel with the carbon marks.

P.S. A regular old pink rubber pencil eraser will also do the trick.

Last edited by gwnorth; 02-01-2010 at 02:16 PM.
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Old 02-01-2010, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RychenCop View Post
leave it...it gives it character.
I second the motion... I would leave it alone for fear of causing more damage (to the surface). Normal wear and tear is NORMAL.
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Old 02-01-2010, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgrafsr View Post
I never understood why people made fun of us for eating donuts. They never make fun of nurses, electricians, etc., for eating them....
Then again it may have to do with the pot bellies that some officers carry around.
A local NH State Trooper's answering machine message: "Staties wear green, locals wear blue, we're out getting doughnuts, that's what cops do."
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Old 02-01-2010, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LDThornton View Post
I use Nevr-Dull wheel cleaner on stainless steel. Find it at Wal-Mart.
That's an excellent product for cleaning the powder & lead residue from Stainless revolvers. I buy it at an auto parts store.

I shoot a lot of lead bullets, and Never-Dull is the only product I've found that will easily wipe away the "donuts" as well as all other lead deposits. Those lead "wipe away" cloths just don't work as well for me. And as for #9, it doesn't work at all for removing lead deposits.
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Old 02-01-2010, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Galt View Post
Excellent point. Lead Away cloth, or any other abrasive, can "dish out" the chamber mouths. I just clean loose carbon off with Hoppe's and don't worry about the discoloration.

+1.**********
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Old 02-01-2010, 03:13 PM
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I quit trying to clean of the burn marks years ago-adds character. As far as cops+donuts; don't worry about it, it's a badge of honor, kinda like lawyers+scotch or doctors+scrub nurses
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Old 02-01-2010, 03:41 PM
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Flitz works great, with no abrasives. Great for blue finishes too. I swear by it.
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Old 02-01-2010, 04:49 PM
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I see you have a bright finish ,so if you pick up a pack of lead away patches or lead away gun cloth you will get all of your donuts off.
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Old 02-01-2010, 05:16 PM
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Yet another who leaves the rings around the cylinder mouths of my 686 (a plus). My reason is that they will come right back the very next time I fire a load. I do not accept carbon buildup in the flutes, however. There I use Leadaway cloth and my fingernails.

Cordially, Jack
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Old 02-01-2010, 05:20 PM
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On SS guns I use 0000 steel wool w/ hoppes 9 and follow up with Mother's.

Last edited by ARMinSC; 02-01-2010 at 06:28 PM.
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Old 02-01-2010, 05:43 PM
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If it is carbon, why couldn't you use a little oven cleaner? -just a thought
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Old 02-01-2010, 06:04 PM
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I have long wiped my revolvers down inside & out (except grips) with Breakfree CLP before a range session. Most of the dirt & powder residue wipe off after. I was sorry when I got lazy & skipped it. Our range officer adopted it for the dept for the next qualification... Better to prevent it than try to scrub it off after.
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Old 02-01-2010, 08:55 PM
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I just use a clean microfiber towel after shooting. I don't want it too clean else, someone may call it a "safe queen"! That gets the majority of powder off of it.
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Old 02-01-2010, 11:55 PM
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Whatever you do, do not use steel wool, unless it is stainless steel wool. It will result in corrosion.
I clean with a bronze brush. It removes most of it. I don't worry about a little discoloration.
John
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Old 02-02-2010, 12:43 AM
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I use hoppes 9 and a patch. Get the residue off and dont worry about the discoloration.
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Old 02-02-2010, 12:47 AM
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A plain old pencil eraser will take most of it off just fine.
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Old 02-02-2010, 12:50 AM
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Another Nev'r Dull user here.
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Old 02-02-2010, 01:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZretired View Post
A plain old pencil eraser will take most of it off just fine.
I never thought of this one. Very basic and simple.
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Old 02-02-2010, 01:27 AM
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this works every time on a stainless, won't cut the metal or stain the surface.

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Old 02-02-2010, 01:43 AM
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Those little "donuts" are a test to see if you have OCD or not.
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Old 02-02-2010, 01:54 AM
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Quote:
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On SS guns I use 0000 steel wool w/ hoppes 9 and follow up with Mother's.
steel wool would not be my 1st choice. ouch!
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Old 02-02-2010, 02:04 AM
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Nev-R-Dull is what I've always used & it works great..
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Old 02-02-2010, 03:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RychenCop View Post
steel wool would not be my 1st choice. ouch!
Why not? Here's the front of the cylinder of my 65 I just did the other day the way I described above.






Lots of corrosion here huh?
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Old 02-02-2010, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
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Why not? Here's the front of the cylinder of my 65 I just did the other day the way I described above.






Lots of corrosion here huh?
hey...if it works.
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Old 02-02-2010, 01:37 PM
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Guys, went down to Wally World this morning, back in the Automotive Department & found a 5 ounce can of NEVR-DULL for $ 4.47. Came home & tore off a small piece.. used it on the "donuts" and whata job. Took them all off that Hoppes #9 would not remove. The ones in my picture on page one are all gone. Thanks a million for the recommendations. It really works.
Carl !
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Old 02-02-2010, 01:47 PM
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Blitz cloths work great, got one years ago at Food Lion,keep it in a zip lock. Carfull on Blue !
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Old 02-02-2010, 02:12 PM
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A stainless steel brush, a little elbow grease and good ol' Hoppe's No. 9 will take it off.
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Old 02-02-2010, 02:17 PM
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I used to worry about now I don't
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Old 02-02-2010, 02:24 PM
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The reason for not using steel wool is that minute particles of steel wool will get embedded in the stainless steel and start corrosion in the SS.
John
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Old 02-02-2010, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exfebee View Post
Guys, went down to Wally World this morning, back in the Automotive Department & found a 5 ounce can of NEVR-DULL for $ 4.47. Came home & tore off a small piece.. used it on the "donuts" and whata job. Took them all off that Hoppes #9 would not remove. The ones in my picture on page one are all gone. Thanks a million for the recommendations. It really works.
Carl !
If you put that small piece back in the can it will absorb the chemicals from the rest of the wadding and you can use it again.
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Old 03-12-2010, 11:05 PM
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Some are saying the Lead Away cloth is abrasive and are recommending the Nevr-Dull product.

I recently purchased and used the Lead Away cloth and was very impressed with the results. Tonight, I bought Nevr-Dull but haven't used it yet.

While comparing the two materials it feels as if the Nevr-Dull would be more abrasive than the Lead Away cloth.

Does anyone know for sure?

Last edited by flgolfer29; 03-12-2010 at 11:05 PM. Reason: fixed typo
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Old 03-13-2010, 12:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeydio View Post
Be careful with using anything too abrasive on the face of the cylinder, the exit throats should be kept sharp and uniform, like the crown on your barrel's muzzle since they perform a similar function when the revolver is fired. Damage caused by improper cleaning can degrade accuracy. It hurts nothing to leave the powder fouling on. If you need to clean it, soak the cylinder in a solvent or use Slip 2000's Carbon Killer and wipe it off. Let the chemicals do the work.

Mike
Plus one! The lead removal cloths or any other mild abrasive backed by something flat, like a tongue depressor.

I have found that cleaning thoroughly with MPro7/Hoppe's Elite (and the lead remover cloths at first) then lubricating all the hot spots: cylinder bores, the cylinder face, the forcing cone, inner top strap, recoil shield, and barrel bore with a dry Teflon Lube (Elmer's Slide-All at about $5 a can) makes it easier to clean next time, cylinder face and rear included. Each time is easier, The rest of the metal gets a good gun oil. I use MPro7 Gun Oil, Breakfree CLP, or similar blown thin with compressed air.

Here's a 617 Plus cleaned that way (cylinder front):



617 Cylinder rear:



629 Cylinder front, forcing cone and inner top strap:




And a 547 Cylinder front (blued):



Elmer's Slide-All

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  #46  
Old 03-13-2010, 12:56 AM
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BIRCHWOOD CASEY Lead Remover & Polishing Cloth, "quickly removes....leading, burn rings, and carbon residue", (for stainless steel) available at Dick's.
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  #47  
Old 03-13-2010, 01:02 AM
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Trust me: Engineers + cheap whiskey!
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  #48  
Old 03-13-2010, 01:09 AM
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Shoot it more, the gasses will wipe it away
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  #49  
Old 03-13-2010, 01:20 AM
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Some strong "coffee" will wash away those "donuts".
If not, try a lead cloth and rub, rub, rub.
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Old 03-13-2010, 12:06 PM
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Default cleaning revolver cylinders

I use a worn down schotch brite pad (green) and bore cleaner. Works great on S.S. and if you go easy on blued ones.
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