I am new to this gun addiction thing and am wondering where I should start? Which revolver should i buy as I don't have anything presently? I would like something in 357 but I'm open to other calibers. I just love the way the SWs look but I don't know where to start. I also don't want to start any fights but....

My standard recommendation for someone who wants to start shooting revolvers is a medium-frame .357, a supply of standard .38 ammunition, and a good basic marksmanship and safety course, such as NRA Basic Pistol.
A gun such as a 4-inch 686 will last a lifetime and provide a wide choice of ammunition and activities, including IDPA, hunting, self protection, and endless hours of range fun.

Welcome to the forum! I agree with OKFC05, a medium frame with a 4-inch barrel would be a great place to start. You should start with the .38s and work your way up. I say this partly because you stated you were thinking of a .357. If you are brand new to shooting, you may want to consider a S&W in .22 caliber. Ammo is very inexpensive and you'll have a blast (pun intended).

I'd start with a .22 then move up to a .38/.357

Ammo is 1/10th the price of centerfire, and you can work on your shooting skill without having to deal with heavier recoil and report.

I bring one of my K-22s with me every time I go to the range to warm up and get into my routine.

I'm new here myself (but not to shooting or this addiction ). I think any of the above suggestions would serve you very well. A good medium frame will never "go out of style" and will provide a solid platform to learn on. A good .22 will do the same, with the added bonus of being cheaper to feed. Another plus to the .22 is it is a great starter if you wish to teach others, especially kids, in the future.

I second the Smith K-22 as a suggestion for first gun and perhaps a Model 19 (.357) as the one to keep your eye out for for your next one. If you buy a 90% or better condition used Smith at a good price and take care of it, you will never lose money if you sell or trade. This way you can consider your 'collection' as it grows, a savings plan. When you see a good deal on a weapon, a devil will pop up on one shoulder and say, yeah, I want that! A different devil will pop up on the other shoulder and say: 'You dont NEED that!' ... but the final consideration is: at the price I am getting this ... can I get my money back? If the answer is yes ... then GET IT! Happy collecting.

If you can find a range that offers various guns to try, see which one you like. What are you looking for....something for range, personal protection, hunting, etc? If you're going to use the gun for personal/home protection, I'd take OKFC05's advice. A 686 would be a nice start. I say start, because...betcha can't have just one! Enjoy the forum!

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Misty

I agree with most of what has been said in this thread and a good L frame like a 4 inch 686 or 586 is a great starter gun. The gun absorbs recoil much better then a K frame 357 magnum that I think are hard on new shooters. I'd also press to get a 22 revolver to do lots of serious training work with because it's hard to beat 500 shots for $16 these days. The skills required to shoot any revolver can be practiced with a 22 revolver until perfected and at a much reduced cost.

I wouldn't rule out a Model 28-2 in 4 inch either as a great 357 to own and shoot.

Thank you to all who have replied.
Is there a place(internet) or book that would be good to help me to learn about all the different models? That would let me keep track of all the different suggestions and limit my confusion? I can already feel the addiction coming on....

Don't fight it, it's incurable. Most of us get our info from the Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson by Supica/Nahas. I got mine at Barnes and Noble for about 40 bucks. In addition to the lookup info it's a great read, you'll enjoy it. Now, I don't want to differ from my brethren, but if you're a beginning collector you might as well get a Model 10 .38 spl. They're not too expensive, very useful and almost every S@W collector has at least one. That's just my opinion.

if you want 357 get a 3 or 4 inch 686, if you want only 38 get a model 15 both are amazing guns

I never met a model 19 i didn't like, four or six inch you can't go wrong as a first revolver.

I'll chime in a little differently. As one who has owned a couple of hand guns for many years but just started "collecting". I think it depends on your budget and how "sure" you are you want to get into this. For price/versatility I'd recommend a .38 or .357.

357: I think a 6" 686 can do just about anything you will ever need, except hide in your pocket. You will probably keep it forever, even if it is your only one. A 4" is a better for portability but not as quite good for hunting or long range target. (I'm sure many will disagree.)
However, a 686 is going to most likely run you over $500.
If you want to start out "collecting" and less utilitarian, you cannot go wrong with an M-19 but you may have to wait longer to find the right one.

38: On the other hand, you can start out with a Model 64 for $300 (or less) It can be used to teach you to shoot and be always be used for home defense, even if for some reason it is the last one you buy. A "collectable" step up from there would be a M-14, 15 or 67.
The truth of the matter is, a .38 special shoots paper just as well as a .357 for less money.

Unless carry is a primary need, I'd stay away from j-frames (the 5 shot .38's), and snub-noses at first, as the larger handguns are easier to learn and handle.

A few things to note if budget it a factor:

• 3-inchers are hot right now and will run a premium
• 22's S&Ws are also a bit pricey, but the ammo is real cheap
• the same gun in .38 will cost 60-$100 less than that in .357
• Stainless models are usually more available than the blue and take much less care
• leave the .40+ calibers for later.

A couple final notes:

• .32's are fun to shoot but much harder to find ammo
• .38 S&W is not the same as .38 special.

I have two S&W wheel guns; a no dash 686 with a 6 inch barrel and a no dash 681 with a 4 inch barrel. While both are L frames and can shoot .357's I prefer to shoot target load .38 specials which I reload. Found both on Gunbroker.com at very good prices and in excellent condition.

Agree 110% with OKFC if you need a centerfire to satisfy your goals.

If you decide to 'move up' later, you can always set the starter gun for 70 to 110% of what you paid, and that is a cheap education!

If you can live without the 38/357 clout, consider a quality 22 revolver in a heavy frame, aka the K22 others have referenced. You need some time to get used to the idea of framing sights and squeezing off shots, and a 22 lets you get in a lot of target time without a big concern about ammo budget.

What everyone else has said is good and true. The only thing I'll add is that if you look around a bit ( Firearms, Guns, Rifles. Grain Valley, Missouri. Smith & Wesson Model 64 38Spl 4in Stainless, Round Butt w/ Bobbed Hammer. Very good plus condition Firearms For Sale ) there are some insanely good deals on trade in Model 64's right now.

Fixed sights, .38 Special +P only, but good cheap high quality revolvers that will teach much about shooting straight & give a good introduction to the joys of a good revolver.

Enjoy!

William

Thanks again for all your responses.
What do you all think of the prices below....I will get to see these later this week. Are there any here that look especially attractive, given the -# and all?
Smith and Wesson 357 Mag.
Model 65-3 Stainless Steel $389.99
Model 65-4 Stainless Steel $389.99
Model 686 Stainless Steel $409.99
Model 686-4 Stainless Steel $429.99
Model 686-2 Stainless Steel $429.99
Is there somewhere that I can learn what the -s mean?

If you are refering to the dash numbers, they indicate manufacturing changes. A model number with a -3 would indicate a third production change on that gun since it's introduction.

Ask your self what are you going to do with the gun?
Target?
Hunting?
A. Small Game?
B. Big Game?
Concealed Carry?
Home Protection?
Police Pistol Competition?

Each gun has some trade offs.

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In case of emergency call 1911

This is an excellent grouping, if they any are 3 or 4" barrels even better, I would pick one of the 65's for use with 38 and 38 +P or if I planned on carry. The 686 if I planned on shooting more 357's or as a home defense gun. These - numbers are all good ie before locks and MIM parts, the last one I would pick is the 686 no dash unless it has an M stamp on the frame by the model number. Also I would look for a removeable front site as these are more desireable on the 686's. This would be my "buy" priority, 3" anything, 4" anything, 65 for carry and use with 38's, 686 for range and home use. YMMV.

m.

For a first gun, I'd recommend a M617 4". Cheap ammo for lots of practice, and a very handy size.

Then, if you've liked the M617, think about adding a M686 4" to your collection. My M686+ 4" only weighs an ounce more than my M617 4", but gives all that .357 Magnum/38 Special goodness (and recoil).

Here is an off-the-wall suggestion that will get you into two hobbies at once; handgunning and reloading. If you really get into handgunning, you are going to almost certainly need to be a reloader, or be rich, or limit most of your shooting to .22 rimfire.


S&W Model 10 used---$250-$350
Lee Hand Press Kit---$40
Lee Carbide .38 Dies---$30
Lee Priming Tool---$25
Miscellaneous Shell Holders, etc--$30
Pound of Bullseye Powder $30
1000 small pistol primers $35
1000 lead bullets 148 grain wadcutters $65
Five boxes (250 rounds) standard pressure .38 sp. ammo $125


The five boxes of ammo are for you to familiarize yourself with the revolver, and to provide once-fired brass for reloading. You can load the brass at least a half-dozen times each if you are loading mild to moderate target loads. The S&W Model 10 is a classic handgun, the preferred Police sidearm for most of the last half of the 20th century. You can't go wrong with one. Reloading isn't rocket surgery nor brain science. The processes are not as demanding as what you may have done in a HS or College chemistry lab. Basic safety practices will protect you against double charges or "squib" loads. You are in more danger pumping gas in your car than you are handling the powder.

My list will provide you with a high quality, good shooting, classic S&W revolver and 1000 rounds of ammo for less than what some of the suggested revolvers would cost. There are a bunch of good books on reloading. There are a bunch of videos on youtube describing the process. Don't be intimidated.

A lot of people over the years have gotten into the handgunning/reloading hobbies with just this combination.

My other suggestion would be to buy a good used .22 rimfire revolver and several 500 round "bricks" or bulk packs of ammo. You really need to shoot a handgun a lot to get proficient.

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Georgia On My Mind

The Standard Catalog referenced above is THE BOOK - very informative, lots of great color photos, and relatively current.

I suggest you visit a few gun stores and handle several different revolvers. Tell the salesperson that you are a new shooter and want to look at a variety of S&Ws in J, K, L, and N frame sizes. Maybe they will show you some of the models suggested here, but the main thing is, once you feel the differences of weight and trigger reach, you will have a better idea of what fits your hand and feels good to you.

Also, you will get a quick education on whether you want to do business with that particular shop - some are staffed by knowledgeable, friendly workers that want to help YOU find what you want, while others might be less interested in spending more than five minutes with a "newbie", or are interested in steering you toward what THEY want to sell...

Have fun and check back if you have questions!
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Brian

personally, i would get something with adj. sights. i started on a model 15 when i was 14. reloading will be must with centerfires. get some intelligent instruction and read everything that you can find about it. stay away from any off brands. i would stick with the following, s&w, colt, ruger, sig, german walthers. you can always branch out after you get some hands on experience and realize what you looking at. this forum is one of the best for advice as there are many experienced shooters, collectors, and reloaders here. good luck in your new hobby. it has kept me interested for over 45 years so far.

What are your recommendations for a 22? What kind of prices are reasonable?

It doesn't matter where you start, it's where you end up. I thought I could limit myself by only buying 3" and 5" barrelled revolvers. Yeah, right. That didn't work. It got so bad I decided that my new motto would be(to my wife), "I didn't overpay, I just bought it a few years too soon."

As for a .22LR, I've owned a bunch, but still, the most accurate, and the one my kids learned how to shoot with, is a model 63, 4". It simply outshoots all the rest of my .22's for accuracy, K-22's, 17's, and is the shortest barrelled .22 revolver we own. When we compete (family competition) we all try to claim it.

It's hard to pick one certain .22. Buy a bunch and one will grow on you! Prices? You got me there. Been awhile since I sold or bought a new one.

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-Troy

You can't go wrong with any of the S&W .22 revolvers. There are cheaper double-action .22s, but none of the quality you get with a S&W. I probably shoot my Model 63 more than any other. It dates from the 1970s. My two K-22s date to the 1940s. I found a finish-challenged K-22 Masterpiece, the six inch barrel target model, for $350 during T-giving holidays last year. You can probably find a used Model 63, Model-17, or Model 18 starting around the $400 range and going up from there. I don't know what the new guns sell for. You really need to get a reference, such as the previously mentioned Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson, so all these model designations and descriptions don't confuse you. I can't speak for the newer guns, but you absolutely can't go wrong with any of the older S&W 22 revolvers.

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Georgia On My Mind

If the 686-4 is anywhere between a 2.5" to a 4" barrel, that would be my choice. To me, that is the best version of the 686 that was made and that price is fair, assuming it is in pretty good condition.