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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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  #1  
Old 04-06-2010, 09:54 AM
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Default Very happy with M&P R8

I am a Smith & Wesson shooter and collector. My tastes with revolvers usually runs to the traditional, but when the M&P R8 came out something really grabbed me about it. I know the gun arouses strong emotions and opinions from both ends of the spectrum, and believe me, I'm no "mall ninja", but this was one that I had to have. Back in September I found one locally lightly used for just under $700. I dove on it. Then, on the drive home I noticed that the barrel was just perceptably loose. When I got home and inspected it further I found that the muzzle retention ring was loose. I have a feeling that the previous owner probably dealt the gun rather than deal with the issue. The gunsmith at the shop where I bought the gun offered to try and tighten it, but I decided that the gun should go back to Smith to have the problem resolved. This would assure that it was done correctly, and it would give Smith the opportunity to evaluate what was going on. Despite the fact that I was not the original owner of the gun Smith sent me a label telling me that they would take care of it. I had the gun back within a month. Since it had to go back to the Performance Center I considered the turn-around time to be excellent.

Once back the gun sat in my safe for five months unshot. This past Friday I shot the R8 for the first time. I'm certainly not new to S&W revolvers having shot them for decades, but this one really was something quite special. Considering the frame I expected a bit more recoil than usual with both .38 Special and .357, but it was quite the contrary with the gun shooting extremely smooth with less of the recoil that I would expect with a similar steel framed revolver. Yes, the single action trigger is outstanding, and the double action quite good (possibly just a tiny bit disappointing for a Performance Center gun) but this revolver was making me look so darned good. I find most S&W revolvers to be inherently accurate, but I was shooting to a whole new level with the R8.

My conclusion is that a lot of it had to do with the balance of the gun which I found to be just about perfect. Beyond the R8 itself, three and five inch barrels seem so right to me to begin with. I won't give a range report but suffice it to say that I left the range with a very big smile on my face.

Then just to add icing on the cake, Smith & Wesson customer service stepped up to the plate once again and hit another one out of the park. No, the barrel retention nut wasn't loose again (tight as a drum) but I noticed that I didn't have the four screws to attach the top rail. While I don't shoot pistols with scopes I thought that I might like to try it some time in the future. The CS associate at Smith didn't ask for a serial number, or any payment, and just took my name and address and said that screws would be on the way. That just adds to the whole experience and is another reason why I own many Smith & Wesson firearms.


Last edited by Storm; 04-06-2010 at 10:56 AM.
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Old 04-06-2010, 05:05 PM
Steve_NEPhila Steve_NEPhila is offline
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I have one as well and after 1000+ rounds, a set of JM grips and lots of grins this revolver has performed flawlessly. The action on mine is about 99% of perfect and makes her a gem to shoot. I bought a holster for it as well for the occasional open carry from Leather gun holster, concealed carry holster - Simply Rugged Holsters? - Proudly made in the USA if you were interested.
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Old 04-07-2010, 08:23 AM
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Good to hear that the gun is as good for someone else.

I think my slight dissappointment with the double action trigger is that it could be just a bit lighter and maybe a hair smoother, but I think that my problem might be that I'm comparing it to the DA trigger on some of my older Smiths and my Colts which are downright buttery smooth. I also dry fired an R8 that had a trigger job done by a local smith and it was rather incredible.
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Old 04-07-2010, 12:01 PM
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I felt the way you did when I first saw the R-8, I had to have one. So, I bought one, brand new. Before I ever shot it, I did a basic slick action job on it and put in an extended firing pin from Cylinder and Slide.

The revolver is incredible. I shot MANY a "Thursday Night Thunder" IPSC matches with it right along side of the race gun boys, you shoot what you bring. As long as its IPSC legal, have at it. I always placed in the top 10. Those guys literally HATED to be shown up aganst "A REVOLVER."

I carried it anytime I went to town on busness in a Galco dual position Phoenix and two full moon clip reloads either under a business jacket or my Domke vest. The revolver is incredibly light easy to manage full house 125 grain Federals, and is a joy to carry for an N-frame.

Its a GOOD feeling walking along knowing you have that firepower. I wish I was packing it here in Afghanistan instead of this Beretta.

WC
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Old 04-07-2010, 12:52 PM
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Yup, that is significant firepower! Everytime that cylinder swings open and I look at eight rather than five, six or seven I have to grin.

I may have the smith who I referred to do a little work on the trigger, but I'm doing so well with it I might just leave well enough alone.
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Old 04-08-2010, 02:47 AM
Big_T Big_T is offline
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I wish I was packing it here in Afghanistan instead of this Beretta.

WC
You said it, brother!
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Old 04-08-2010, 12:24 PM
shuter1 shuter1 is offline
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Talking I have one too . . .

and couldn't agree more about all of the good things that have been said. One of the 2 most accurate revolvers I've ever owned (the other is another Smith - a PC 629 "Hunter").

Mine has an Ultradot mounted in alloy rings from TPS. It's a bulky combo set up this way, but very controllable, accurate, easy to shoot, and fun!

I also like the "retaining nut" system on this gun (even though it came loose on the OP). This seems a better way to secure the barrel than engaging the rifling with a tool and cranking the barrel in, as I'm told is done on the other 2-piece barrel Smiths. That just don't seem right.

see ya
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Old 04-08-2010, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuter1 View Post
and couldn't agree more about all of the good things that have been said. One of the 2 most accurate revolvers I've ever owned (the other is another Smith - a PC 629 "Hunter").

Mine has an Ultradot mounted in alloy rings from TPS. It's a bulky combo set up this way, but very controllable, accurate, easy to shoot, and fun!

I also like the "retaining nut" system on this gun (even though it came loose on the OP). This seems a better way to secure the barrel than engaging the rifling with a tool and cranking the barrel in, as I'm told is done on the other 2-piece barrel Smiths. That just don't seem right.

see ya
I consider that loose retaining nut a blessing as I would bet dollars to donuts that had it not been loose I never would have gotten that gun and at that price I could have returned the gun for a full refund, but with Smith CS it was a no-brainer to keep it.
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Old 04-09-2010, 11:16 AM
BillyWayne BillyWayne is offline
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I have one of these R8s. It had been on my short list for a while. I was at the toy store one day getting ready to buy a 327 Night Guard when the store owner asked me if I wanted a R8 because he was getting one in. I told him to put my name on it. I bought the Night Guard as well. One expensive visit. But I do love the R8! I may put some Ahrends on it if I can find a really dark set.
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Old 07-16-2010, 07:18 PM
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I have been reading every piece of information about the R8, and 99% is all fantastic reviews. I am ready for my first revolver, its simply trying to find an R8 in stock under a $1000.00.

I envy you owners, but I too will own an R8 soon.
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Old 07-16-2010, 11:53 PM
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Glad you like yours because I hated mine and got rid of it.
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Old 07-17-2010, 01:12 AM
VermilionSTi VermilionSTi is offline
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Glad you like yours because I hated mine and got rid of it.
Great post. Knock the revolver but, don't offer any information about why you hated it and got rid of it.
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Old 07-17-2010, 09:52 AM
David Sinko David Sinko is offline
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A while back I traded away my 627-4 8x.38 Super (which was the worst S&W revolver I ever owned) so I desperately needed a real 8 shooter, which at this point was going to be a .357 Magnum. I took a long look at an R8 but decided not to get it. It was too expensive and the alloy frame is a turnoff. Judging from the reports of shooters who own N Frames with alloy frames and actually use them, the durability just isn't there. I want mine to be both a match and carry gun and it will definitely see hard use. The barrel is a turnoff too. I did not like the 5" barrel of the Super and I always preferred the 4" barrel for its versatility. I see the two piece barrel as a cost cutting measure and want nothing to do with that. And I think the barrel has polygonal rifling, which is not good for a revolver that must shoot lots of cast bullets. It was easy to walk away from this revolver. I'm glad I did because shortly thereafter I found a nice used 627-5 with 4" normal contour barrel. My -5 is significantly heavier, but I like all that extra steel. I put Miculek grips on mine too, and I'm surprised at comfortable it is to shoot full power ammo. These grips were always painful on my 625s.

Put 5000 rounds through your R8 and let us know how it's holding up. I don't believe what I read in the magazines and I'd like some feedback that has credibility.

Dave Sinko
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Old 07-17-2010, 11:47 AM
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Put 5000 rounds through your R8 and let us know how it's holding up. I don't believe what I read in the magazines and I'd like some feedback that has credibility.
I have close to that many through mine, almost exclusively lead. Still going strong. It's been back to the factory twice:

1. Barrel tensioning nut came loose (or wasn't properly torqued from the factory)--happened after about 100rds. Fixed under warranty.
2. I had a primer failure (on my reloads) that blew out the side of the primer and torched the firing pin bushing. S&W fixed it on their dime.

It still locks up tight and is one of my most accurate revolvers.

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Old 07-17-2010, 11:56 AM
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Great post. Knock the revolver but, don't offer any information about why you hated it and got rid of it.
If you want to know, ask me properly. Otherwise back off.

You be nice to me and I'll do the same.

The members of this forum won't tolerate anything less.

And just so you know, I am entitled to express my opinion without having to explain myself to you or anyone else.

NOW, I will tell you I did not like it.

Light primer strikes with or without full moon clips. Did not matter what ammo I used. Gunsmith looked at it and no change.

Also for such an expensive gun, it had the worst trigger pull when compared to other S&W products that cost much less.

So I got rid of it.
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Old 07-17-2010, 01:01 PM
David Sinko David Sinko is offline
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I see the two piece barrel arrangement isn't all it's cracked up to be, no pun intended. I hope this shortcut was worth it to S&W.

How do you blow out the side of a primer? The only way I can see this happening is with a very high primer and I think at that point you'd realize how high it is when the cylinder doesn't close properly.

Light hits seem to be a problem which afflicts many revolvers with the new "improved" frame mounted firing pin design. It's not limited to the R8 or any other single model.

The trigger pull is also hit or miss. I tend to expect the worst and I always end up adjusting the spring weights at the very least.

Is it possible to buy an R8 and fit a normal one piece barrel?

Dave Sinko
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Old 07-17-2010, 01:45 PM
Steve_NEPhila Steve_NEPhila is offline
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I now have about 3500 rounds through my R8, just about all of them cheap Blazer 158 grain LRN and 148 grain WC's. I still enjoy the revolver and it produces fantastic accuracy.

I did send the R8 back to the factory, my main complaint was that the barrel nut came loose. While it was going back I also complained about the extractor rod coming loose and the trigger pull having just a touch of gritty feeling to it near the release in DA (I only shoot DA, well 99.9% of the time).

The factory fixed the barrel nut, replaced the hand and the extractor rod. I can say the action is significantly smoother and now it is just as accurate as before.

I have had a few problems with this revolver, but it is a machine and they wear and have defects. The positive strengths of my R8 outweigh the negatives in my opinion.
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Old 07-17-2010, 09:08 PM
mr.magnum mr.magnum is offline
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Wink

i think the r8 is a great idea and i've always wanted one.....and i'm glad that nobody on this forum is sensitive. if they were, then their feelings might really get hurt!
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Old 07-18-2010, 12:10 AM
VermilionSTi VermilionSTi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanewpadle View Post
If you want to know, ask me properly. Otherwise back off.

You be nice to me and I'll do the same.

The members of this forum won't tolerate anything less.

And just so you know, I am entitled to express my opinion without having to explain myself to you or anyone else.

NOW, I will tell you I did not like it.

Light primer strikes with or without full moon clips. Did not matter what ammo I used. Gunsmith looked at it and no change.

Also for such an expensive gun, it had the worst trigger pull when compared to other S&W products that cost much less.

So I got rid of it.
I apologize. Shouldn't have jumped on you like that. Friends?
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Old 07-18-2010, 12:14 AM
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Well, if there are anymore dissatisfied owners out there please keep me in mind if you would like to sell or trade.
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Old 07-18-2010, 12:32 AM
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I apologize. Shouldn't have jumped on you like that. Friends?
Yes.

No problem buddy.

I should have been a little more explanatory in my post.
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Old 07-18-2010, 05:33 PM
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How do you blow out the side of a primer? The only way I can see this happening is with a very high primer and I think at that point you'd realize how high it is when the cylinder doesn't close properly.
It blew out on the edge (right where the cup curves), not the side. Just a tiny pinhole, but enough to flame cut the bushing. I posted a thread about (with photos) it in the Gunsmithing forum. Not sure exactly how it happened--it was either just a bad/thin/weak primer cup, worn out brass, or I did something stupid such as crushing the primer when seating it.
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Old 07-18-2010, 09:12 PM
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I wanted to ask if this was a systemic problem with the R8, or was it just yours that had this problem?
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Old 07-19-2010, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
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I wanted to ask if this was a systemic problem with the R8, or was it just yours that had this problem?
Just mine and I'm sure it was due to my reloads and had nothing to do with the gun. S&W still fixed it under warranty.
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Old 07-19-2010, 07:46 PM
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I see, thanks that helps a lot. I am running a pole in another thread about which should be my next purchase between the 3 M&P models R8, 340 and the 342. Surprisingly the R8 has a slight lead over the 342, I thought for sure it would go R8, 340 and then the 342.

Thanks again for your insight.
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Old 07-30-2010, 11:11 AM
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You are very lucky! I have been looking for an R8 for about 2 months now and can't find one!
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Old 12-05-2010, 06:46 AM
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Exclamation R8 light primer strikes

I have had an R8 for about a year. 300+ flawless rounds through it and I would echo all said in the positive that I have seen in this forum.

However, just cracked a new box of Remington 38 ammo and had multiple light primer strikes. Out of 25 rounds, 5 light strikes. An 8 shot attempt would have 6 in a row as advertised then 2 light strikes in a row. Different every time but confusing. There is a significant difference in the dimple on good rounds from the light rounds.

If it is not the ammo- which I am also investigating- has anyone had similar trouble, and what was the course of action that fixed it?

Many thanks.
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Old 12-05-2010, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Sinko View Post
I see the two piece barrel arrangement isn't all it's cracked up to be, no pun intended. I hope this shortcut was worth it to S&W.

Is it possible to buy an R8 and fit a normal one piece barrel?

Dave Sinko
Dave, you won't find a one piece barrel as accurate as the tensioned barrels. If you don't believe that, do some reading up on the accuracy of Dan Wesson revolvers.

As for it being a cost cutting device, I've worked in manufacturing since 1980 and when you factor in the increased inspection and quality procedures required for producing each part, making barrels in a 2 piece configuration will be cost NEGATIVE in comparison to a 1 piece barrel. I suspect that's one reason why the 620 has been dropped, the payoff that S&W expected just wasn't there when they added up all of the additional costs involved in making 2 seperate parts.

Lets be honest, you don't like it because it's different. No problem there, as another Old Fart there are a lot of things I don't like because they are different. One being Airbags. If you wear a seatbelt, Airbags are pretty redundant. Personally, I think that if cars were percieved as being a bit less safe we'd see much more attentive drivers on the streets. My first car was an old air cooled Beetle and that car would NEVER pass today's crash standards. However, I not only survived, I actually enjoyed driving it.

Now one thing I can tell you is that the 2 piece barrels provide a distinct improvement in accuracy. Buried in it's test archives Guns and Ammo has a test report on the M&P R8 in which they tested it at 50 yards from a rest. With a cold barrel that gun produced a 1.08 inch group.

Name me ONE single S&W revolver that accurate that uses a factory one piece barrel. You won't be able to do it or provide any independent test reports that support this. About the best you can do with the current 1 piece barrels on the 686 is around 2 inches at 25 yards. In addition, the one piece barrels are VERY sensitive to having anything in contact with the barrel when the gun is fired, which means you'll degrade the accuracy by using a barrel rest. However, with a 2 piece barrel you can rest that barrel on a sandbag and see a distinct improvement in accuracy because resting the barrel provides a more stable platform.

BTW, I do a bit of bench rest shooting with my revolvers. It's a real challenge and a great way to improve release skills. My preferred distance for bench shooting is 35 yards, an oddball distance because it's the longest distance at which I can see the red bull on an 8 inch shoot-n-c. I'll also note that I am now shooting with J Point reflex sights, my eyes no longer can focus on handgun sights unless I shoot from a "blade" stance. My model 610 has a good reputation for being an accurate gun and at 35 yards my very best effort to date is one single 2 1/2 inch group, generally it ranges between 3 and 4 inches. I've also experimented with resting the barrel on the 610 and doing that just about doubles the group size, IMO resting the barrel interferes with the barrel "ringing" true. With my 620, that uses a 2 piece barrel, I've managed a 1 3/4 inch group at 35 yards by sandbagging the barrel and if I had a scope I have no doubt I could cut that grouping in half.

To be blunt, IMO the now discontinued 620 may prove to be the single most accurate 357 Magnum that S&W has ever produced and the Scadium frame 327's are probably a close second. One of these days I may just mount a scope on the 620 just to see what it can do when set up properly for precision long range shooting. With a bit of load tuning, I think it has the potential for 1/2 inch groups at 50 yards. As much as you dislike the 2 piece barrels, they do provide accuracy that can approach a carbine rifle and they do it without the abomination of mounting a 1 1/2 or 2 inch diameter bull barrel as was once done to achieve this level of accuracy from a revolver.
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Old 04-30-2011, 10:28 PM
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Well, I pulled the trigger and I am in the process of buying a few S&W revolvers. The M&P R8, TRR 325 and a M&P 340 are on layaway, with much anticipation. I really am excited about the R8, simply because of your positive reviews. These are my first revolvers and I am sure I will have questions. Until then and I get these out layaway I appreciate your information.

Thanks again...
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  #30  
Old 04-30-2011, 10:32 PM
stantheman86 stantheman86 is offline
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I'll take an R8 with a 6" barrel
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Old 06-02-2011, 12:06 AM
chrisSW chrisSW is offline
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I got lucky enough to acquire SN CNU2000. Beauty on the first few hundred rounds so far.....

....anyone want to make an offer on such a rare serial number?
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  #32  
Old 12-15-2013, 02:40 AM
gtoppcop gtoppcop is offline
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I just brought one home from my LGS. After I popped the sideplate to take a look see and clean/lube it (it's a Marine thing), I came away impressed.

I also have a 325TRR that I like, so the new-fangled "UnObtainium" framed revolvers are okay. I do like the P&R'd guns most, however (I have a 19-3 and 66 no dash).

One thing that strikes me is the all-business aura of the R8. I mounted a Hogue N-Frame R/B Monogrip with a Hamilton Bowen screw-in lanyard ring (it takes the place of the grip screw) that was Gray Armor-Tuff'd by Wilson Combat. It adds to the all-business look and adds utility.

I like the gun VERY much and am anxious to run some Magnums through her. I did find that when I pulled her apart, that her insides were drier that a popcorn fart. There was NO lubrication on her guts whatsoever.

She will be smoothed up in the coming weeks by my gunsmith. After she comes back, I will send the trigger off to Mag-Na-Port to have their Combat Trigger modification done. After I get the trigger back, the trigger, hammer and rebound slide will be NP3 Plus'd by the good folks at ROBAR in The Valley of the Sun.

Next, her front sight will be sent off to Tool Tech in Michigan to get a Trijicon Tritium vial installed. After that, I think she'll qualify to be a "fighting revolver".

The 5-inch tube is hard to adjust to. I normally go for 3 and 4-inch tubes. I'm confident that she'll be accurate. I thought I read that the barrels (not the shrouds) are made by Walther. I do like the muzzle-heavy feel. It points well.

As for feeding her, I may use the full moons, but most of my shooting will involve the 5-Star speedloaders. The cost is high (@$25-$27/ea), but not nearly as high as the ones that Clint Smith advertises on his website ($65/ea). I've heard some decent reports about the 5-Star loaders. As a lifelong HKS/Safariland user, their reverse release will take some getting used to. I think the speedloader is the easier way to go, rather than fumbling with the wiggly rounds. They don't load as fast as their .45 ACP cousins.

My intent for this revolver is to be a duty gun, should I get back into LE work. As for a duty holster, Shelley Brown at Ted Blocker can make up her excellent SP202 revolver holster for me (with extra welt rivets). They can make up almost any holster for any gun.

For a utility/range holster, I want the steel and leather Ted Blocker Thunder ($125), but 'Mama Bear' would be angry. I opted for the less-expensive Safariland 567 for the 5-inch S&W N-Frame ($45). I use their 568 belt loop for a custom fit on my Mitch Rosen belts. Wilson Combat also sells the same belt loop, albeit in thick cowhide/kydex, vice the Safari-Laminate. The 567 Adjust-A-Fit holster is a cheaper alternative than the Ted Blocker/Alessi/Sidearmor, Blade-Tech or Simply Rugged models.

If there's any misfires (due to it being Kalifornia-Kompliant), I will get the Apex firing pin kit, as I hear they're better than the C&S pins. Not sure, but the 3 C&S pins I've installed in my late-model Smiths have been decent.

Last thing: Not sure if anybody else does it, but any new (or new to me) firearm that I get, now gets a rub-down with FLITZ. I use either the paste (silver tube) or the liquid (black bottle at any auto parts store). FLITZ is AWESOME. It removes corrosion (yes there's some) on blued (and stainless too!) guns. On the Scandium and painted guns (325TRR and R8), FLITZ removes any surface impurities and imbues the surfaces with a nice baby-soft finish. It's safe on firearms finishes.

Last edited by gtoppcop; 12-15-2013 at 02:45 AM. Reason: grammar
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  #33  
Old 12-15-2013, 05:48 AM
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PA Guns & Ammo PA Guns & Ammo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scooter123 View Post
Dave, you won't find a one piece barrel as accurate as the tensioned barrels. If you don't believe that, do some reading up on the accuracy of Dan Wesson revolvers.

As for it being a cost cutting device, I've worked in manufacturing since 1980 and when you factor in the increased inspection and quality procedures required for producing each part, making barrels in a 2 piece configuration will be cost NEGATIVE in comparison to a 1 piece barrel. I suspect that's one reason why the 620 has been dropped, the payoff that S&W expected just wasn't there when they added up all of the additional costs involved in making 2 seperate parts.

Lets be honest, you don't like it because it's different. No problem there, as another Old Fart there are a lot of things I don't like because they are different. One being Airbags. If you wear a seatbelt, Airbags are pretty redundant. Personally, I think that if cars were percieved as being a bit less safe we'd see much more attentive drivers on the streets. My first car was an old air cooled Beetle and that car would NEVER pass today's crash standards. However, I not only survived, I actually enjoyed driving it.

Now one thing I can tell you is that the 2 piece barrels provide a distinct improvement in accuracy. Buried in it's test archives Guns and Ammo has a test report on the M&P R8 in which they tested it at 50 yards from a rest. With a cold barrel that gun produced a 1.08 inch group.

Name me ONE single S&W revolver that accurate that uses a factory one piece barrel. You won't be able to do it or provide any independent test reports that support this. About the best you can do with the current 1 piece barrels on the 686 is around 2 inches at 25 yards. In addition, the one piece barrels are VERY sensitive to having anything in contact with the barrel when the gun is fired, which means you'll degrade the accuracy by using a barrel rest. However, with a 2 piece barrel you can rest that barrel on a sandbag and see a distinct improvement in accuracy because resting the barrel provides a more stable platform.

BTW, I do a bit of bench rest shooting with my revolvers. It's a real challenge and a great way to improve release skills. My preferred distance for bench shooting is 35 yards, an oddball distance because it's the longest distance at which I can see the red bull on an 8 inch shoot-n-c. I'll also note that I am now shooting with J Point reflex sights, my eyes no longer can focus on handgun sights unless I shoot from a "blade" stance. My model 610 has a good reputation for being an accurate gun and at 35 yards my very best effort to date is one single 2 1/2 inch group, generally it ranges between 3 and 4 inches. I've also experimented with resting the barrel on the 610 and doing that just about doubles the group size, IMO resting the barrel interferes with the barrel "ringing" true. With my 620, that uses a 2 piece barrel, I've managed a 1 3/4 inch group at 35 yards by sandbagging the barrel and if I had a scope I have no doubt I could cut that grouping in half.

To be blunt, IMO the now discontinued 620 may prove to be the single most accurate 357 Magnum that S&W has ever produced and the Scadium frame 327's are probably a close second. One of these days I may just mount a scope on the 620 just to see what it can do when set up properly for precision long range shooting. With a bit of load tuning, I think it has the potential for 1/2 inch groups at 50 yards. As much as you dislike the 2 piece barrels, they do provide accuracy that can approach a carbine rifle and they do it without the abomination of mounting a 1 1/2 or 2 inch diameter bull barrel as was once done to achieve this level of accuracy from a revolver.
Maybe the reason why they went with a two piece barrel was that the officer who was using it would probably have the barrel resting on the riot shield. Is that why?

James
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  #34  
Old 12-15-2013, 06:21 AM
shipwreck2 shipwreck2 is offline
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I'm thinking this will be my next revolver. Thanks for brining this post back up. Does anyone know if the current model R8's still have a problem with the light strike?
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Old 12-15-2013, 10:26 AM
mjolnir2 mjolnir2 is offline
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Originally Posted by shipwreck2 View Post
I'm thinking this will be my next revolver. Thanks for brining this post back up. Does anyone know if the current model R8's still have a problem with the light strike?
Check out the link below…
R8/TRR8 Owners - Poll
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Old 12-15-2013, 09:07 PM
S&W357 S&W357 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjolnir2 View Post
Check out the link below…
R8/TRR8 Owners - Poll
I bought mine two months ago and its fine. Yes, the trigger can be better[for a PC gun] The more you use it the better it gets. Dry fire it when you watching TV. I did about 1000 times and it's a lot better. LOVE the gun !!!!!
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Old 12-15-2013, 10:31 PM
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I believe if I were carrying the TRR for duty use, I would consider carrying the first 8 loaded in a full moon clip. It would make for faster extraction, eliminate the possibility of a cartridge slipping under the extractor, and keep all the empties together, making it easier to extract a stuck case. My 627s do not fully extract empties, so a moon clip would make it faster to get all of them out of the chambers together. Just sayin....
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  #38  
Old 12-16-2013, 12:03 AM
gtoppcop gtoppcop is offline
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Rich,

Thanks. I'm finding that the longer Magnums tend to hang up on the grip. I'll work on it. A lot of folks are saying that the stock S&W firing pin is made to shoot with the clips.

I will run her through her paces sometime this coming week. I will have several lots of ammo to test, both with and without the clips.

-Greg
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  #39  
Old 12-20-2013, 10:21 PM
gtoppcop gtoppcop is offline
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Default RANGE VISIT

I was able to get away from the base for lunch and went to nearlby "Oceanslime" (Oceanside) to shoot the R8.

I shot about 90 rounds through it. The 125gr GDHP Magnums shot low, but were grouped in the size of a Quarter. I guess they are calibrated to 158gr bullets. I adjusted the sights to be POA/POI with the lighter bullets. Next, was the Fiocchi 125gr JHPs. Outside of the massive amount of muzzle blast, theygrouped slightly more open than the Speer Gold Dots, but are a great round, especially the price.

Next, I shot about 40 rounds of Black Hills (new) .357 158gr JHP (Barnes XTP). It was on the 2nd cylinder-full of the Black Hills that I experienced my first (and only FTF). I think it was the ammunition, as I've had FTFs with Black Hills previously. A subsequent hit from the stock firing pin lit it off fine.

After about 20 of my .357 reloads (158gr LSWHP with 14.0 grs 2400), I noticed that the cylinder wouldn't close properly. I did all of the 'revolver remedials': Check the fit of the case heads, check under the star for unburnt powder granules, check the face of the cylinder for carbon build-up (my B/C gap is .005") and finally the fit of the yoke into the frame: All GTG.

After re-inserting the rounds, it inexplicably went back into battery and shot/worked fine. Weird.

Although I shot a small number of rounds, the power of the Magnums (full power) loosened the revolver up slightly. I'll still have the gun properly opened-up and addressed with the mods I detailed earlier.

Bottom Line: I really enjoy this revolver. It's light and seems to perk along nicely. When she's "finished" she'll be an exceedingly fine combat revolver. The recoil is almost nil.

Update: I just received my new Safariland 567 Adjust-A-Fit holster for the 5-inch N Frame. Without any adjustment, the gun slide into the holster and was a perfect fit. For those who own the R8, this is your >$100 holster. Hard to argue with its utility and adjustability. It doesn't have the same "pride of ownership" as does a custom holster, however. If you get the 567, I highly recommend their 568 belt loop, or go to Wilson Combat and get the Ladies Holster Belt Loop or their leather version of the 568 belt loop.
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Old 05-26-2017, 01:02 AM
Shaggs Shaggs is offline
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How much play is there supposed to be on the barrel? I have never had a revolver where there was play between the frame and the barrel which is sleeved. Wondering if I should send it in. It is an absolute blast to shoot but do not want any malfunctions. I noticed after only 200 rounds the rail had all but unscrewed itself.
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