Scoping a M17/M617

redbos · #1 07-12-2011, 02:40 PM

Hi,

I love Model 17's, Model 617's( no 10 shot) and K22's, most of what I buy for S&W's. I do have a weakness for Model 27's and 29's of course as well..... I have always wanted a 8 3/8 version with a scope for some bench/porch shooting of crows,etc.....

First, am I stupid to scope such a lovely gun? I dont want to ruin a perfectly good S&W. Anyone out there scope a 6 or a 8 3/8 inch M17/M617? Also, if removed, any lasting damage that would hurt one of my safe queens? I know they are meant to be shot, but just want some expert advice and maybe even a pic!

Any suggestions?
Thanks
Will

tdan · #2 07-12-2011, 04:55 PM

I purchased a scoped 617 no dash with the 8 and 3/8" barrel a few years back. The previous owner had drilled only two holes to secure a weaver scope base, and this set-up is quite secure for this very light recoiling revolver. You would no doubt lose a bit of value if you drill and tap the top strap of a mint 617 no dash, but I got this gun cheap as the original rear sight was not included. This is indeed a rather specialized unit. This has to be the heaviest K-frame ever produced. With the scope, it's rather heavy to shoot off-hand, but off a rest it really shines. Mine is as accurate as a good 22 rifle off a rest. You will certainly be able to terrorize the crows in your neck of the woods with this set-up. If you think you will be doing more of your shooting off-hand, I would look for a model 17 with the same long barrel. That long tapered barrel hangs really nice for off hand shooting. I recently shot a 95-4X with my 17-4 at the 50 yd. slowfire portion of a recent bullseye shoot. Those K-22's pretty much find the black, if you pull the trigger straight back!

scooter123 · #3 07-12-2011, 05:52 PM

You have a variety of options available somewhat dependent on whether the particular fun was produced before or after 1993. In 1993 S&W started drilling and tapping the K and larger frames for a mounting rail. BTW, this standard pattern is rather easy to spot, if you open the cylinder you'll see 3 holes in the underside of the top strap. However, if the gun was made prior to 1993 and appears to be tapped for a mounting rail you'll have to confirm that it was actually tapped for what is now the standard pattern, some gunsmiths would take a blank rail, drill it, and then tap the frame to match.

Second option for an earlier frame that hasn't been tapped is to have it tapped to the new standard pattern. I've done this on a 67-1 and 617 no dash and the new mounting holes will NOT interfere with the existing hole for mounting a target sight. However, for the earlier guns made in the 40's, 50's, and early 60's, you may want to confirm the new mounting pattern won't interfere, I have the impression that S&W has moved the mounting hole for the rear target sight over the years.

Third option is to use a mounting rail adapter that uses the existing holes in the side plate and also clamps to the top strap. Aimtech is one vendor who make this type of adapter. Downside to these mounts is that the WILL mark up the gun. It's why I drilled and tapped my 617 and it took a fair bit of sanding to clean up the marks left on the sideplate and top strap by that mount.

Now in regards to something like a pristine K-22, I would recomend that you forego mounting a scope on it. Drilling and tapping the frame will degrade it's value as a collectable. Marking it up with a sideplate adapter mount will also degrade it's value, probably more than drilling and tapping it. For a later gun like my 617 no dash, the date of production was so close to 1993 that I don't think that drilling and tapping it will have any negative effect on value and may actually enhance it a bit.

redbos · #4 07-12-2011, 08:15 PM

Good stuff so far guys, yeah I would never disrupt a K22. But thinking now on a 617 or perhaps a 17-6 8 3/8 if one exists?
Maybe if I am just shooting within 50 yards at crows and such I should use a dot?

410bore · #5 07-12-2011, 08:43 PM

617-1 guns and newer are drilled and tapped from the factory. the 617-1 still has NON-MIM parts and is a 6 shot. i have one but have not put a scope to it yet

410bore · #6 07-12-2011, 08:55 PM

"17-6 8 3/8 if one exists?"

they exist

TwoPoundPull · #7 07-12-2011, 09:09 PM

For squirrels and such......

onion · #8 07-12-2011, 10:24 PM

leupold steel mount ,tasco 1-4 scope . works well for me but I prefer irons on this revolver .No marks when removed .

mchech · #9 07-12-2011, 11:00 PM

Here is my deer hunting & practice set-up. 6" 617-1 with Leupold 2x & 6 1/2" 629 with same scope. Last 10 years I sort of lost the ability to see them sights like I used to if ya know what I mean. I hunt from a box blind and use a rest so the weight difference doesn't matter much. Recoil is a tad different

but I get in plenty of practice with the 22. If I only had one 22 revolver I don't know if I would scope it but I do love this option.

S&W Practice & Hunting by mchech, on Flickr

H Richard · #10 07-13-2011, 09:31 AM

B Square makes a (pre 93) no drill scope mount for K, L, N Frames. It is held in place by the "T" slot under the rear sight elevation, and a screw into the original front screw for the iron sights. While I would not use this arrangement for any potent calibers, I have used it for a Red Dot on a 17-4, and on K38 for mild .38 WC loads.

If the gun in question is a "safe queen", I would not mount any kind of scope mount on it as there is no way you can without leaving "some" kind of a mark.