I ordered a Wolff Power Rib Shooters Pak which includes a reduced power Power Rib mainspring and 13lb, 14lb and 15lb reduced power rebound springs for my Model 64.

Which rebound spring do you recommend? I want to reduce trigger pull, but do not want to risk light primer strikes. I reload and use mostly Winchester and Wolf small pistol primers.

The rebound spring won't affect your primer strikes so you can use any of them you want.

I usually buy their lighter rebound springs in bulk packs and leave the original mainsprings in the guns.

Go with the 13 lb spring. As long as the trigger reseats itself after the weapon fires you are fine.

I use an 11 lb spring in all my Smiths. Some shooters will find it to be too light. You can outrun the trigger if the spring gets too light unless you practice a lot with it.

I have used both the reduced power and standard power ribbed mainspring without problems. The reduced power model will fiatigue faster than the standard model and you will get light primer strikes and failures to fire. You can re-arch the spring and get a little more life out of them but replacement is the real cure. I keep one of each on hand in my range box for ready replacement. I prefer the feel of Wolff's factory power rebound spring although I have used their 14# spring in the past. Just my personal preference, experiment with the various weights till you find what you like.

I like the 14# in K/L/N/X frames and the 13# in the J frame.

I have tried the 11# in two different guns and the trigger would not reset 100% of the time.

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NRA - All Day

I just started using a 11# spring in my 686P so far so good I haven't had any problems

If you plan to use it for defense, or you do rapid fire double-action shooting, I'd use caution in going too light on the rebound spring.

The faster you work the trigger in double-action shooting, the more you will notice a lazy return. The idea is for your finger to stay in contact with the trigger. Some stick with a slightly reduced return spring, including a famous revolver exhibition shooter, who uses an "asymmetrical setup" with a light mainspring.
MIC-625 - $16.95 : Bang Inc., If it goes bang, we shoot it!
Jerry Miculek's S&W Action Job - DVD [MIC-X0201D] - $34.95 : Bang Inc., If it goes bang, we shoot it!
"shows complete gunsmithing procedures to "tune" the overall action of your revolver; resulting in a smoother, lighter, more predictable trigger pull. You'll learn how to reduce metal to metal friction and why trigger return can be more important than trigger pull. "

I run an 11 pound spring with a coil cut. I can't outrun it. The rebound spring has to match the mainspring and I am using a reduced power mainspring.

I suspect that people who are outrunning the trigger with lighter springs are running full power mainsprings xor riding the trigger.

I did the Jerry Miculek job on my 681 and the result was nothing short of amazing.

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-jwk-
US Army '72-'95

If you get Jerry's DVD, you will find he puts a "Heavier" rebound spring in his guns so he can shoot faster. If you are not concerned about "speed" shooting, then the lighter spring to suit your taste. I believe a 16 lb. is standard.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I agree with OKFC05... if you intend to rapid fire your revolver, especially during a personal protection situation, your don't want your trigger finger to get ahead of the speed in which your trigger returns.

I'd say try all three... starting with the lightest one... and rapid fire your revolver numerous times to see how the trigger feels. Move up in weight if you find you're squeezing the trigger before it completely resets. You'll know when you've arrived at the correct spring weight.

I use a factory mainspring with a 10# rebound spring for range guns or an 11# rebound spring for combat guns. I've never experienced a "lazy return" with either of them and think this may be from another problem then the springs, namely friction. I can outshoot the 10# springs if I'm not careful though, so that is why they aren't on my duty guns.

I don't understand the "matching" comments about the mainspring and rebound springs. They aren't working together when they are returning to position and as long as the hammer gets back faster than the trigger there should be no problem.

I use the Wolf 11 lb.

Hmmm. Looks like I'll give the 11# another try. Maybe polish the rebound slide inside and out while I'm at it.

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NRA - All Day

I run the 14 in anything that I use for personal defense and the 13 for competition. anything less then 13 I can out run the trigger and that will cause it to lock up.

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May God Bless The USA

The rebound spring has to overcome the mainspring. A weak enough rebound spring for a given strength mainspring will reset slowly or not all at all depending on how the internals agree.

You are correct, it does have to move it slightly to overcome the hump on the rebound slide, an often overlooked surface to contend with. But I have never seen a 10# or heavier spring have a problem with a factory mainspring. Unless...someone had cut the rebound spring, which is a big mistake regardless of what some experts tell you.

Thanks for your help on this guys.

I installed the Wolff reduced power hammer spring and 13# trigger return spring and they work great.

One thing to note is that the rebound spring has a significant effect on the SA trigger pull weight. Currently I have a 12 lbs rebound spring in my 617 and the SA trigger is below 2 lbs.. All of my other revolvers have 14 lbs. rebound springs installed and this produces a SA trigger just over 3 lbs. with the factory mainspring. Personally, I won't let anyone except for myself use my 617 in single action, the trigger is just too light. One of these days I'll end up changing it to a 14 lbs. spring but right now it is fun to shoot with and makes getting a really small group pretty easy.