I've got a line on a couple of used Model 617's locally at decent (not great) prices. They're both 6", but one's a 6 shot and the other is a 10 shot. I'm interested in one to use as a practice clone for my Model 14 so a 6 shot is tempting, but are there compelling reasons to go with the 10 shots instead? Would one or the other retain a better resale price? Does the action of a 10 shot feel significantly different than a 6 shot?

Ya know, a six shot revolver is kinda classic plus better chance of getting one without the IL - if you need more rounds, get an auto.

I have 10 shot 617's in 4 and 8-3/8 barrels and a 6" 17 6 shot. They are all nice but I have to say that I like to shoot revolvers in steel plate and bowling pin shoots so the 10 shot is the only way to go. But for target, plinking and hunting the 6 shooters work just fine. So I guess it comes down to what you want to use them for. I personally can't say that I notice any difference in the feel of the actions. As far as resale goes I really haven't got a clue which would hold value better!

10>6 All things being equal, the math seems pretty simple to me.

The 6 shot guns usually have target hammers and target triggers,the 10 shots may not.I would lean toward the six shot version,since you mentioned having a Model 14.

If either gun is a pre lock gun get that one. If they're BOTH pre lock.......get a loan!

I own a 6 shot. The best part is that you only have to clean 60% of the amount of chambers you would have to clean with a 10 shot.

Bill

10 shot-the price per hole is lower.

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I can't come up with any good reason to avoid the internal lock on a recreational revolver, except, perhaps, cosmetic reasons. The ten shot is a lot of fun, more trigger time until empty.

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Bob

Amen! If you despise the clean-up as much as I do, listen to Bill.

Andy

I'd personally prefer the 10 shot.

Because.....it holds 10 rounds, instead of just 6!

I have a 10 shot 6" and 6 shot 4". I like the 4" better because i can shoot it better. Amazing for a guy with old eyes.

John

I have four 617's. Three are pre lock - one 4 inch and two 6 inch - 6 shot. My one 10 shot is a 4 inch drilled and tapped so it sports an Ultradot 30 and it gets a lot of shooting. One of the 6 inch has a better double action trigger and it also gets shot a lot. It is hard to pick a favorite. All are very accurate and I like and shoot them all. Given a choice and for similar dollars, I would buy the 6 shooter. They are hard to find now.

6 spent cases eject easier than 10.

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Just load 6 for practice and maybe shoot one or two cylinders fully loaded at the end.

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I prefer the 6-shot versions, as the cylinder looks better IMO than with a 10-shot version. Same goes for a 8-shot model 63, which is not so good looking as the 6-shot old version. However, 6 or 7 on a 686/686+ have almost no 'visual' impact, but with more a gun looses it's classical look and seem like cheap stuff.

If it would be an unfluted cylinder, I would mind less. But maybe that's only me.

i have a 10 shoots 4 " the only bad thing it's long to clean when i bought it i'm looking for a 34 or 18 ,2 months lather i see a add for a 34 4" like new and at fair price (250 euro)

I called the dealer and they're holding the pre-lock 6" 6 shot for me. I'll check it out later today and if everything looks good I'll put a deposit on it and get a purchase permit on Monday.
Anything in particular I should look for beyond the usual checks? Is there any way to tell if it's been dry fired? From what I read on the S&W site that dry firing a rim fire revolver can damage the firing pin.

On the 617 with the standard firing pin, IMO the only harm that dry firing will do is stress the hammer. The fact is the firing pin doesn't extend far enough to contact the cylinder so the only real harm is the shock that the hammer strike causes. There isn't anything present to cushion the hammer fall when it falls so that it shoots the firing pin forward and then hits the frame, so it's a heck of a shock. I seen reports of hammer spurs breaking off due to excessive dry firing and suspect that it no applies to any S&W with a frame mounted firing pin.

Best way to avoid this problem is by using snap caps to act as a cushion for the firing pin and hammer. However you cannot find snap caps for rimfires, so in this case it's best to save your fired brass and use an undimpled area on the rim for each dry fire strike. It's a big PITA but it will protect the gun. BTW, if you compare the noise with an undimpled area under the pin to one that has been struck, you'll note that it's distinctly different.

BTW, I prefer the 6 shot 617. Not only is there less to clean but it's also less time waiting for smoke to clear. I do most of my shooting at indoor ranges because outdoor rages in my area are a minimum 35 mile drive. One thing about shooting 22LR in a revolver is that it's a very smoky shooting round. So much so that I have to wait for hte smoke to clear after 6 shots so I can see the target. With my 6 shooter, I'm reloading at that point, so the smoke has a chance to clear. With a 10 shooter it would probably mean shooting 5 at a time with a pause as long as a reload takes to wait for the smoke to clear. So, for me, a 6 shooter is a more logical choice. Plus, it's traditional and I like tradition.

From what I'm reading most of you prefer the 6 shot because It "looks" better or more "traditional". That is a poor way to choose a firearm. I'm not trying to be mean or personal, just an observation.

IMO that is very faulty way to make a decision. The choice should be by the one that shoots the best. That is not always possible so the one that locks up good and doesn't have timing issues. One that appears not to have been messed with. Other things to look for would be barrel/cylinder gap. Is there any end shake, etc.

John

I own a 6-shot 617-1 4". I prefer this configuration because it exactly replicates my K-frame Model 66. The trigger pull is virtually identical to that of the 66 and thus, the gun makes a perfect training gun.

Why wouldn't a 10 shot 4" make a good training gun for your 66?

John

The problem is that you'll train yourself out of the need to reload after 6 shots. In an actual gunfight making that mistake could get you killed. It will also have a rather severe effect on your scores in a competition such as IDPA because when you get a click instead of a bang it will take a bit of time for your brain to shift gears.

Exactly. When I shoot, I've trained myself to count to six.

You train yourself to count to 6??????

If you live where you need that kind of mental training then you would better off moving someplace a little more friendly. I live in grizzly bear country and have prepared myself. But not to combat status like you. Living like that is waaaaaayyyyyyy intense way to live.

There has to be a better palce to live.

John

Good one! Reminds me of the guy when ordering a large pizza and asked if he wanted it cut in eight pieces or twelve replied "Better make it eight, I don't think I can eat twelve."

Sorry......couldn't resist.

IMHO there are FEW ''valid'' reasons to favor a 6 shot over a 10 shot. Anyone who can ''train'' themself to count to 6, ought to be able to ''train'' themself to count to 10 also. Hopefully nobody's carrying a 617 for SD, so that ''reloading in a gunfight'' scenario is moot. Being too lazy to clean 4 more cylinders is shameful. The IDPA angle has some credibility, however. In any event, either configuration of the 617 is a fine revolver.

I have a ten shot because they don't make a fifteen shot. The more the merrier.

Right on-- one eye joe. Well said.

Now that is a unique perspective there Loco Weed. ha ha

I have a 6" 10 shot and a 4" 6 shot. I like the 4" better, not because it is a 6 shot but because I can hit with it.

I honestly believe that the 6" is to front heavy "for me". I do have some health problems and the meds gives me tremors and I have to work harder with the 6" to shoot it well. If the 4" was a 10 shot I would probably favor it, even with the dreaded lock!!!

John

Well, that was a disappointing trip. The 6 shot 6" looked like it hadn't been cleaned or maintained in a few years and didn't carry up properly on 5 of the 6 chambers. I pointed it out to the kid who waited on me and his reply was "Yeah, we don't do anything to the used guns we take in." That certainly gave me serious doubts. I pointed out the uneven build up around the forcing cone and showed him the timing problem and asked if they'd knock any off the price because of the issues. He took it over to another guy who rapidly dry fired it a bunch and said there wasn't any problem, but they'd take $25 bucks off.
I was reasonably confident I could fit a new hand and fix the timing for $25, but I didn't know what other problems I might find and didn't like the guy's attitude, so I left with my money still in my wallet. Too bad, I would have liked having a 6 shot 617 to practice with so I'm not shooting up all my target loads in my Model 14. I guess I'll keep looking.
FWIW, the 10 shot 617 had even worse timing issues and didn't reliably lock up on one chamber even in single action!

I ain't seen anyone say anything about a 10 shot 8 3/8. I sure do like it!!!!!!!!!!!

ric426,

Sorry to hear that. That is why a lot of used guns are on the used market. It takes a lot of shopping to find one that is a keeper. There is a 4" model 67 I know of that has been for sale for several months now because of timing issues. As long as the price stays high it won't sell, but if the price drops I will have a project gun. It is a solid gun, just not worth what they are asking for the condition it is in.

One thing to check is if the gun is real dirty. The dirtier it is the looser it will be and sometimes will cause timing issues. I bought a 66 once that was filthy and had timing issues and was loose. It looked real good other than being dirty. I took it home and took it all apart and gave it a good cleaning and WOW, no timing issues, locked up tight and was a great shooter. Not all turn out like that but if one of my smiths starts getting "loose" I take it apart and clean it up and shazam! It is tight again!!

The big thing is the slot the hand goes in. If there is dirt on the hand or in the slot that can cause lots of problems.

John

If y'all need a training gun to be so similar to the actual gun that a 10-shot is too different to replicate a 6-shot then a .22 really isn't close enough at all.

The lack of recoil is far more different a 6 v. 10 timing is.

Buy whichever y'all like most, but I wouldnt let any silly notion that 10 shot isn't close enough to the real gun when neither of them doesn't have any recoil to speak of.

The 617 us an awesome gun and so is the 686. It's great their similar; it's partly why own both. However, they're similarities end long before we get to minute timing differences.

Well, part of that notion of using the 617 as a training gun is to work on basics like trigger control and sight picture, but when you get right down to it, it's a good excuse to get another gun.

Plus, it'd be a good gun to use to introduce my wife to shooting.

See? I can come up with all sorts of justifications.

I haven't totally ruled out the 617 I looked at. I'm just trying to decide if I want a project gun right now. If the guy at the shop had shown a different attitude instead of acting like I was being unreasonably picky, I might have put my money down, but I didn't want it bad enough that I couldn't walk away and think about it.

Some of the 10 shot 617s had aluminum cyliders - that would be a turn off to me.

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that sounds a bit like cutting off your nose to spite your face. If the gun is worth having at the price and it's what you want don't let the guys attitude stop you.

Well, you haven't seen my face!

Like I said, I haven't ruled it out, but I wasn't so anxious to buy it that I couldn't walk away and think about it some more. After reading some more comments in other threads I may roll the dice and go for it. It sounds like a thorough cleaning and some TLC might bring the timing back to where it should be and I wouldn't mind spending the time tinkering with it. I can't do anything until I pick up a purchase permit on Monday anyway.

Be glad you didn't take the one that got dry-fired.
Now, it's possible, if not probable, that there are peen marks on the edge of each chamber.
It's also possible that the firing pin has been damaged or at least had its service life shortened.

For thems what knows not: Rimfire revolvers aren't meant to be dryfired without snap caps or at least spent cases in the chambers.
(Needless to say, please check that the cases ARE spent.:-)

You wouldn't go wrong with either one as they are built like tanks. I have a very early 617 6 shot model with a 6 inch barrel and I love it but I'm sure the 10 shot model shooters love theirs as well.

You sir, are absolutely right. I went back today and gave it another look and took it home with me. It didn't look like it'd been abused, just not maintained very well. They gave me $25 off based on the overall condition and after an hours worth of detailed cleaning I can see that it's really in pretty good shape. Judging by the incredible amount of crud under the extractor alone, it's a testament to S&W that the gun could cycle at all.
It's cleaning up real nice and I'm feeling pretty good about it. Another couple hours of detailing, some action polishing and new springs is going to yield a nice gun. I think it'll be the gun that my wife will like to learn to shoot with. That alone will be worth the price.
Thanks to all for the advice and opinions. It's nice to have folks around to keep my thinking on track.

My opinion is that they are all wonderful guns. I own a 6 shot four inch a 10 shot four inch and two 6 shot six inchers. I like the 10 shot a lot .
As far as condition, all 617's were made after 1989 so they have fully transferable lifetime warranties from the factory.
I bought a 686 2.5 inch gun from a fellow forum member, it had very excessive endplay but looked very nice cosmetically.
I never even told him I did not want to haggle about it, I just called Smith customer service, sent it in and got it back as new . It is now one of my favorites. Isn't Smith & Wesson great !!!

I guess it costs them labor which can be rather expensive, but it's hard to imagine they wouldn't bother cleaning up the gun some.

I just bought a used six shot 617 no dash. I too looked at a brand new 10 shot.

I did a little research online and found there are some problems with the newer 10 shot 617's.

Mine has the wide trigger and hammer. No lock. And it's a pleasure to shoot. Six or ten shots, doesn't matter to me.

IMO, the older revolvers are built better.

My 617 6 shot was a training gun for a community college police academy. I don't know the round count but it has to be a lot. Mine still locks up tight and is much more accurate then I am. I have shot several thousand Wally World federals through it. This would be one of the last guns I ever parted with. Your made a good buy no matter what the condition was.

Is it possible to time a 6 shot to an original 10 shot 617?

Reaming...reaming to a .22WMR, thats why

ITS NICE TO READ SOMETHING POSITIVE ABOUT S&W CUSTOMER SERVICE, FOR A CHANGE......

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