I just bought a model 65 (on the internet) and upon inspection I think it has a problem. It looks like the star is peening the recoil shield when the cylinder is closed (see photos). If you hold the cylinder to the rear the star stops it from being closed unless you force it (which it looks like someone did). Is this a serious problem? I have never seen it on my revolvers before. I have until tomorrow to return the gun so I am debating my options…
Thanks
Yeesh. I'm FAR from an expert (but I did stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night).
Couple very rudimentary things I do when looking at a revolver. I wiggle the cylinder front to back to check for "endshake". If there's any detectable movement (and it's not a S&W I want) I usually end the experiment there. Next thing I do is ask for permission to pull the trigger. If granted, pull the trigger and hold it back. At this point the gun is in "lock-up". I like to see how much the cylinder moves with the gun in this state.
Does the cylinder have a lot of front-to-back play?
I would send that one back.....I am surprised that the seller did not disclose that, but then again, I am not really that surprised any more by internet salesmanship....hope that you come out okay on that deal...
Hello elk23, That doesn't look good at all...How much end play is in the cylinder for and aft...May need the bushing shim treatment...I would call S&W and ship it to them to correct the problem...Good luck...
The last gun I saw doing that was caused from the owner swapping barrels without supporting the frame. Does everything look strait/level, barrel, yoke cylinder? Is there any excess movement anywhere? Does the front sight look true? Does it bind up when dry firing? Either way you should contact the seller ASAP looking at the scratches he should of been aware of the problem. If the frame is not bent and the price was really good you could make it a project gun, but that is up to you.
Beyond the cosmetics, I don't think that you have anything to worry about. I have a model 67-1 that will scrap that area with the extractor if the cylinder is held to the rear and positioned just right. However, I don't nomally close the cylinder in a barrel up position because the rounds would tend to slide out of the cylinder. Point the barrel down slightly and the cylinder shifts forward on the crane and the extractor doesn't touch the frame at all. The fact is that the only thing that keep the cylinder from sliding off the crane is the cylinder stop lug pinned into the frame and there is a moderate amount of "slop" built into these guns in this area.
BTW, this is assuming that mechanically the gun checks out as being in good condition. Meaning, check the endshake, B/C gap, carry up, and timing before getting worked up over cosmetics. I would also suggest you check the Ejector Rod for runout because I suspect that mark may be due to a previous owner flipping the cylinder closed as seen in movies, most likely with it empty and the barrel pointed straight up. Doing that "movie stunt" is pretty hard on the Ejector Rod and can put a bend in them.
BTW, in you first pic, it appears that this stop lug is slightly turned and if it's not an optical trick, that should be corrected. These are normally quite firmly riveted in place and one that has turned is probably on the way to coming completely loose.
As for the question of whether you should return it, that depends on what you paid for the gun. If it was a 250 dollar bargain, I would accept it as is. You really can't expect perfection when you buy at a bargain price. If it was a 500 dollar gun, you should expect and receive a gun that is pretty close to flawless.
I think I see the problem.
In picture Number 2 it appears the cylinder stop lug on the frame is rotated.
If it is or was loose, that would allow the cylinder to move back far enough to impact the frame in that area.
Check the lug and if it's loose, tighten it, or have it replaced.
If you hold the cylinder to the rear the star stops it from being closed unless you force it (which it looks like someone did).
Simple fix, don't hold the cylinder to the rear when closing it, that isn't a normal way to operate the mechanism.
If you look at the breech face you will see that the center area is cut as a ramp, not only for the center-pin, but for the full diameter of the extractor, and further out there is a bevel for the full diameter of the cylinder. These cuts are intended as just that, ramps, to cam the cylinder forward as it is closed. If you hold the gun muzzle down when closing the cylinder and simply let gravity, and the center-pin spring, do their work I think you will find the "Problem" has disappeared.
At some time in the guns life, a shooter may have had the bad habit of ejecting the spent casings with the muzzle pointed down, thus dumping **** in behind the star thus not allowing it to seat in the cylinder properly. make sure that area behind the star is clean.
Could also be the stop as it does appear to be turned a little. I love my 65's.
Peace,
gordon
Thanks for all the replies. I think it was the stop lug but in any case I sent it back to the seller for a refund. Got this one as a replacement and couldn't be happier.
I had a brand new Colt King Cobra years ago that developed a bad peening very soon after I got it, and this was with mainly mild .38 special loads. You could see the imprint of the entire star on the recoil shield. I took it in to the authorized repair gunsmith. He doubted me when I described it. Then I showed it to him, and he agreed. Got a new gun from Colt uner warranty. Too bad the new one did not shoot as well as the older one.
Does the yoke have some slop on it when the cylinder is open? If it does then the yoke is bent to take that out when closed, that would make it rub that way or one of the things.
Frame Peening...
Linear Mode
