Here is a recent new one for me.

36 no dash, 2" RB

It's has a "floating J" serial number from about 1971.

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Back to look again.
These J frames are very useful & I've taken a lot of small game with them. They are just plain handy, stick it in your pocket & go. They will almost fit in a back pocket of blue jeans & a vest pocket makes them dissapear. Just plain handy, wear one in a good holster on your belt & you'll almost forget you have it!
Thanks for sharing everyone.

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This little 642 gets shot a lot. We don't usually consider the "J" a range gun, but I love to shoot a box of plinkers through it every time out

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John

One of three 640s, no dash. This ones mostly pocket carry but in holster today with some snake shot just in case.

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Isaiah 41:10

3482jl

Some target wadcutters really are fun in the Js. They are more accurate than most will believe too.

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This just might be the Prettiest Gun I've ever seen !! Beautiful work of Art !

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This is my go to carry and the 638 that I will take when the mood strikes me. The 642 wears Hogue compact and the 638 has Pacy compact. The PC gun is incredibly smooth.
Be safe, Frank.

I saw several nice older J-frames at a gun show yesterday. I think one of the biggest mistakes S&W ever made was moving to the J-magnum frame. .357 in a J-frame was always more of a marketing gimmick than a customer demand, yet the larger frame affects comfort and concealability.

Prices are rising - there was a very nice M36 ND, no box, for $600 and a badly scratched M60 ND for $750 with box & papers. There was a factory engraved M60 for $1400.

Guess they are getting more & more popular?
The good old S&W Mod. 10s are increasing in price too.
Had to come back for another look, thanks for sharing everyone.

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I don't find that to be true.

First, .357 Magnum in a Model 60, with its steel frame and 2.125" shrouded barrel is not horrible to shoot given a proper grip.

Now, to be fair, I practice with .38 Specials and I carry .38 +P, but that's due to a) my habit of shooting it on a regular basis for proficiency and the resulting wear and tear on the revolver with a steady or even frequent diet of .357 magnum, and b) the adequacy of .38 Special +P loads in a 2.125" Model 60, and improved speed and rapid fire accuracy with +P loads as opposed to .357 loads.

I get velocities around 675 fps with 158 gr .38 Special, 950 fps with 125 gr .38 +P and 1065 fps with 158 gr .357 Magnum. The .357 Mag is just not efficient in a 2" barrel, while the +P load is both a significant improvement over the standard pressure load, and potent enough to do the job and is still pleasant to shoot.

Second, the J-Magnum frame is about 1/8" longer to accommodate a 1/8" longer cylinder. There is more metal around the hammer, but way less than with a hammerless or shrouded hammer style J-Frame.

First, let's compare a Model 36 no dash with a Model 36-10 with the same 1 7/8" tapered barrel on a J-Magnum frame. It has a slightly longer frame to accommodate a lightly longer cylinder (about 1/8") and a slightly longer radius in the frame from the back of the top strap to the top of the grip, resulting in a little more metal around the hammer:



Then let's compare the same Model 36 no dash with a Model 60-14 with J-Magnum frame and 2.125" untapered barrel with shrouded ejector rod. The frame and cylinder differences are identical, with the major difference being the 1/4" longer barrel.



Then, let's see all three side by side.



Even with the longer barrel and larger frame the Model 60-14 fits in the same holster as the Model 36 no dash and is just as comfortable for IWB carry.

It is however much more durable and will handle .38 +P loads without complaint, while the Model 36 no dash is a standard pressure .38 revolver only.

The best gun ever made. The J Frame!

34-1, 2" RB

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Saw another 642 & Benchmade Rift combo so here's mine.

I'll help reserect the thread.

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Two Handguns every day

My model 638. Incredibly lightweight & easy to conceal. Paid $340 at Buds
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Just joined this forum. About to make my first gun purchase and it's going to be a J-Frame


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Welcome. You're in good company, especially with that new J; post a picture when you can!

Welcome to the forum.
The J frames are one of the easiest carrying guns to come along. They are fun to shoot, & way more accurate than most think too!

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This 360J ( scandium frame/carbon steel cylinder) has proven to be a great little gun.

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John

Long time lurker but first time posting in these forums. I've owned quite a few guns over the past few years, most of which have been revolvers (Glock 19, GP100, SP101 and two 686's in 3" and 4" barrels) I have flipped all but this one. It was a wedding gift from my wife so I couldn't sell it even if I wanted to.

Fortunately I don't want to sell it. It's absolutely perfect for me. All of my previous guns have been way more enjoyable to shoot but they were all too heavy or bulky for me to carry comfortably, and there's no point owning a gun if you don't have it when you need it. In my opinion, if it ain't light, it ain't right.

I have grown pretty attached to the 357 as my round of choice and have a surplus of that and 38s stashed away. While it's a handful out of the 360M&P I would take 5 rounds of 357 over 6, 7 or even 8 rounds of 9mm any day. If I'm ever in a situation where I need more than 5 rounds plus a speed loader in the glove box, I'm probably boned anyway.

On to the pictures! These things are with me all day, every day.












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Has the j frame manufacturing process changed at all since the mid 90s?

Would a j frame today be equal, lesser, or better quality than a j frame produced a decade or two decades ago?

Is there any advantage in buying a brand new j frame over an older unused or slightly used j frame?

Thanks


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Look for a Model 60-7 from the early to mid 1990's. It has metallurgy and design advantages over older guns.


Model 60-4 has these advantages, but has a full-lug three-inch barrel and adjustable sights. A very fine small defense and trail gun, with higher velocity over a true snub.


Choose between these, depending on whether you want a true snub or a slightly larger gun that's more versatile.


Avoid Airweight guns: the frames sometimes crack and the guns are not durable.


Avoid the later guns in .357. I don't think the J-magnum handles recoil well enough to be shot much in .357. If you want a small .357, get a Ruger SP-101 with a barrel a fraction over three inches.


Oh: yes, there were changes after about 1995. Someone with more time can tell you what they were. But I don't feel that they were for the better.

I have bucket full of J frames but you win with 39 Js LOL

No such thing as too many J frames. They are fun to shoot too.

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I just found a Blued Steel Chief's Special in As New condition and bought it. It's a sweet gun. I've had it out to the range and it runs like one of the modern Performance center guns. The bluing is so pristine it looks black in most light.

The form and fit on this gun is way better than what I find on my modern 638-3. For instance, the Forcing Cone to Cylinder gap is @ 60% tighter than on my 638. Exceptional workmanship.

It was in the original Blue Box with all the Documentation and an unopened brass cleaning brush with rod and , it looked like it had never been fired.

The Instruction sheet called it a model 36, the dates on the sheet were 1969 and 1970. The instructions said this gun was rated for .38 Special rounds and something called .38 Medium rounds.

Do you, or anyone on this forum, know what a .38 Medium round is/was?

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I love the J-Frames! Beautiful little revolvers.

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686-1 2.5"

I'm not familiar with the term. Perhaps they meant the .38 Long Colt, but were loath to use their competitor's name. The LC was fairly common in an earlier era, and is dimensionally identical to the Spl except for length -- the LC case is just a bit shorter.

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NewburyDave, must be a Plum Island expression! Just kidding. I think your mind converted "MID RANGE" to "MEDIUM". Back in the day ammo got cool names like guns did i.e.: model 15 = Combat Masterpiece. 158 round nose lead = Police Service. The 148 grain lead wad cutter (full wad cutter) was referred to as .38 Mid Range indicating it as a target load.

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Posted these before.
640 no dash and M&P340 no lock

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Newburydave, congratulations the older Js are really nice. When you get a chance we'd probably all like to hear how well it shoots.

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My everyday carry keeps changing, from a J-frame to the 9mm Shield, but the lightweight Js are tough to beat for CARRY. They are light weight and nearly imperceptible on the waist...but when it comes to SHOOTING, the semi-auto wins the day...but then again, we carry all day and shoot very little. If I practice with a steel J, over and over, then my proficiency with the air-weight improves.....otherwise, the pain it provides makes accuracy more challenging.

EVERYDAY::


I love this gun...it hits very hard...easy to carry...very accurate...just a GIANT J.... (kidding)



However, I can say the same about this one....except it IS a J....

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Terry
SWCA, SWHS, IWLA, NRA

It probably states ".38 Special Mid-Range", an older term for the 148 lead wadcutter that was intended for target use at 25 yards. See post #8 here:

What is 38 Special Mid Range?

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

Well, just picked up my first gun, and it's the J frame: 640-1

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I traded some used scuba gear for this gun. I think I did ok. Where can I find the ship date for this gun

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Late as usual. Only have 2 J Frames, but 2 of the best:
Model 60-14 .357 Magnum on the left. (converted to DAO)
Model 642-1 .38 Spl. (no lock) on the right.

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In Omnia Paratus

Over the years I've owned eight J-frames from the odd 5 inch model 60 .357 Magnum to the model 34 .22LR. Three are still with me.

Model 642-1 Performance Center is my alternate EDC, the other being a Sig 938 9mm.


The 2.5 inch showm here was my EDC until this spring when I picked-up the PC 642 above. My wife like the lighter weight of the 642 vs. the 60-4 she had been carrying, so it is now her constant companion.


My dad's first handgun which became my first EDC many years ago. Model 36 circa 1968.

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640-1




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@alexrex20 thats some old school stuff right there (the rubber band not the gun) I had a standby gig for the Detroit Catholic Archdioces and hung out with the security for the Cardinal/ Archbishop which was mostly retired Detroit PD there were a few that still carried snubbies and did the rubber band thing. They mostly used the smaller ones though. I still think the funniest was retired a DPD now firearms instructor for Wayne State University carried a keltec p3AT in an OWB holster.

Here is my 637. Previous owner had a front night sight installed. I had CT laser grips installed but didnt like them so I went back to the originals.

How can you not love J frames? I have some Desantis clip grips for the 649. The M&P 340ct is so light I often forget that it's in my pocket!

I will play... I have a 642-1 nl and love it. It wears S&W Banana grips now.
I would like to get a 640 next.

These beauties just arrived at the office:



Any challenges to the installation?


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Just put on some combats that I purchased from one of our members

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Bigdog357, I like that one.

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I bought the 63 no dash from a grocery store in Laramie, WY while back at college as a "non-traditional" student, aka old, during the late 80's. It's great single action. Accuracy that is.

The 442 is new, and happily mine, after my wife gave it back to me. Bought it for her as a EDC but it was too hot for her little hands. I love it and it's what I now carry most of the time. It's that or a Shield 9.

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Would someone who has ACTUALLY had an airweight frame crack please chime in? I can't seem to damage either of mine(after 20 years) and I'm looking for somethin other than hearsay.

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Halfway and one more step

i had a crack in the frame of a model 637 where the barrel is screwed into the frame. never used any +P ammo in it and no reloads. I only noticed it because the finish was peeling and i wanted to have it refinished. They sent me a 638 as a replacement, which is what i requested.

I've actually heard of more model 19s having a crack in the frame below the forcing cone than a j frame, and the cracked j's I've read about were the stainless bbl models, possibly from overtightening.... I have used quite a bit of buffalo bore +p in my j frame air weights ( mdl 37&38) without indication of damage.
I've Read some second hand stories, but nobody has ever shown me the real McCoy.

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Halfway and one more step

this had to be from an overtorqued barrel because nothing +P was ever used on it. 148 gr wadcutters and 158 gr swchp

I love my 1971 Model 36. I carry it as my EDC either OWB, IWB or pocket depending on season


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