New member -- just signed on .. first post.
Friend got a new 686 revolver 357 and is concerned about the light trigger pull on the single action. It is just less than 2# and wondering if anything can be done to tighten this up?
Thanks.
It's not new but new to him. SN aff4xxx

I can believe that. I picked up a few at a gun show a couple months back and the SA pull to me was dangerous. I didn't have a scale to check the pull but probably as you mentioned. There was more than one like this. I know of no way to make it better unless the strain screw is backed out, but other veterans of this model can I'm sure.

That's the first thing I would check. Next I would pull the sideplate and see if there is crud or a burr in the SA notch.

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Dick

Maybe ask in the gunsmithing section. Many informative experts over there! But while we're here...

I'm no expert but I think a heavier return/rebound spring would greatly change the SA.

I am no expert, but I have had some S&W revolvers for 30 years and have taken some measurements on them. Had a model 14, 17 and 66 from 1980 on before buying my 686 new. The trigger pull on my 686 is 8lb 0oz double action and 2lb 10oz single action. I am the original owner-bought it new in Sept 1985 and it has never been worked on. For comparison my 52-2 has a trigger pull of 2lb 12oz, my Hi Standard Citation has a pull of 2lb 1oz neither of those have ever been worked on. One of my 70 Series Colt 1911's has a pull of 2lb 14oz and it has been worked on. This being my competition gun. My other 1911's are somewhere between 3 1/2 lbs and 4 3/4 lbs. I measure all of mine many times with a Lyman Digital Trigger Pull gage and average them to get my numbers.

I would expect that weight of pull on a tuned up pistol and it is no different than shooting a SA automatic. That said, I almost always shoot my revolvers double action. My 586 and 617 both have SA pulls around 3lb 3oz. I would agree that one should be sure that the main spring screw is screwed in all the way. If it is not, screwing it in all the way will heavy up both the SA and DA trigger pulls. If it has backed out somewhat it will lighten the pulls and, on mine revolvers, it will also cause light enough hits to cause misfires due to light primer hits.

If uncomfortable with light triggers, then the alternative is to shoot it double action for a while until comfortable with the light trigger and stay away from Model 52's, 41's, Hi Standard's and other pistols that were originally designed for target shooting because they will have very light triggers.

Just for background information, has he owned/used S&W revolvers before? Is the trigger pull being measured with a gauge, or just by feel?

Thanks.

Put in a heavier rebound spring.

As mentioned by others the first thing to check is the strain screw, it may have been backed out, or loosened up, that is the screw on the front of the handgrip, tighten that up if it is loose and see what that does for you, if it is tight then the rebound spring should be looked at/replaced with a heavier one.
In self defense situations one should only be concerende with DA pull tho', cases have been made in court over those who have cocked thier weapon into SA mode "if you had time to think about cocking the firearm you should have had time to back away from the threat...", sad world we live in but we're stuck with it.
The SA pull as is, is terrific for target shooting, but a definate liability in other situations.
RD

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Got a Phd from Hard Knocks U

There are 2 ways to lighten the SA trigger pull on a S&W.

One is what I feel is the preffered method, changing the rebound spring to a lighter spring. The downside of this method is that it will result in a somewhat "lazy" trigger return that can result in incomplete trigger resets on guns that don't have completely tuned actions. When the trigger doesn't reset completely, it will totally lock up both hammer and trigger until the user remembers to push the trigger forward. Use of a 12 lbs. rebound spring will result in a SA pull around 1.75 lbs. and requires further tuning of the lockwork and mainspring tension to insure reliable reset but it's not difficult to do this. However, even with perfect tuning, the trigger return will be noticeably "lazy" on return when compared to a standard trigger.

The second method, that I do NOT endorse, is to stone the SA sear surface of the trigger on a slight angle in relation to the sear notch on the hammer. This slight change in angle will act a bit like a ramp and provide a bit of "assistance" for a lighter trigger break. IMO it's not a good approach to take, that ramp effect will put all the force of the cocked lockwork on the "point" of the sear notch in the hammer and I believe it will lead to pushoff issues down the road. When that happens, the only recourse is a new hammer and possibly a new trigger. The upside is that you can get a great reduction in SA pull without the "lazy" trigger return of a lightened rebound spring.

Now, as to how you can determine what is the cause of your light SA trigger, for someone experienced with the S&W revolver it's very easy. The lazy trigger return of a lightened rebound spring is very easy to "feel". If someones installed a 12 lbs. rebound spring, or cut the factory spring to this tension, it's about a 5 minute task to replace the rebound spring for someone with the tools and skills to do this.

If the trigger return is quite firm and not at all lazy, that means the sear on the trigger has been stoned. In this case correcting the SA trigger pull becomes more complex and has the potential to get costly. Worst case it means replacing both hammer and trigger and fitting these parts to the gun. Best case is pretty simple, all that needs to be done is to stone the sear surface on the trigger back to the factory configuration, however this does mean that this hardened surface will have been stoned on twice and may not be fully hardened when finished. In that case, pushoff problems will develop in time and require replacement of the trigger. I also think that ANY reshaping of any sear surface should ONLY be done by a qualified gunsmith.

Since it sounds as if both you and your friend are new to revolvers, I would suggest having a gunsmith experienced with S&W revolvers look at the gun. In most areas a swap to a heavier rebound spring should be under 30 bucks. If the trigger and hammer need replacement, it may be as much as a 300 dollar repair, in which case I would suggest a return to the factory. With shipping included, it will cost about the same and you'll be assured the gun times properly and is completely safe.

I purchased a new model 66 before the lock. It was purchased for use as my night stand weapon. I sent it to S&W to lighten up the DA pull and to install night sights. The DA is very nice (easy)pull. The SA is very sensitive. I can't measure the pull but it is very, very light. I would be worried to sell it because of the SA. That being said, I wanted a good DA and that is what I got.

nod

Quite a number of my factory S&W, after several thousand rounds of breaking in will have about a 2 1/2 lb SA trigger. There is nothing wrong with it.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Thanks friends. This is more helpfull than I ever expected. The trigger pull was checked with a guage and was very consistant. Yes he has other S&W revolvers that is why he was concerned. I'm sure I'll be hanging around here for some time. Thanks again.
Dick

He's lucky, people pay good money to have a gunsmith give their revolver a 2 pound SA pull.

I have handled some dangerous revolvers, the first thing I check on a used revolver is the SA break by thumbing the hammer back, and pulling the trigger and "catching" the spur with my thumb (dealers don't like people dry firing their guns, don't blame them, especially if you expect to make a lower offer on it) and some of the revolvers I have checked seem like the hammer started falling as soon as I touched it with my finger......now THAT is unsafe.....

The only guns I have that I use a light rebound spring in is strictly target guns that I shoot in SA.

I haven't measured it, but my 686's single action trigger pull may be less than 1 pound. It's very accurate, but a little scary.

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Zak2k

I've got a 686 I purchased new back in 1989 and the SA trigger pull is wonderful! I would say it is easily under 3 pounds and breaks clean and crisp.

I would love it if my 629 Mountain Gun had a SA pull anywhere near that.

One check to see if someone has polished things too much is to cock the hammer and see if it stays in the cocked position with a bit of forward pressure from your thumb. If it stays back, you have a nice trigger! If it trips, have a gunsmith (or S&W) take a look at it.

Edmo

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TRUTH: Don't delete my posts!

I have a 686 that I wouldn't get a trigger job on because I'd be afraid it would mess it up!!!
It's just right the way it is.

The SA trigger pull on S&W revolvers is hard to judge without a gauge. They seem very light because there is virtually no creep and little over travel. I have measured several revolvers, and find that the trigger pull is between 5# and 6#. The same for a couple of 1911s. I have an High Standard Citation, which actually measures at 2#, and it is so light it seems you just touch the trigger to set it off.

I think 5# or 6# is about right for a self-defense weapon. 2# might be appropriate for slow fire competition or a target rifle, but little else.

Since the days of Reed holding a suspect at gunpoint with a cocked Model 14 while Malloy cuffs him are long gone, and the only time a revolver should have the hammer back is with the muzzle down range, I am not sure that an early shot should do any worse than cause a "flyer".
I do not understand the danger aspect with a light pull.
Unless its a belt and suspenders thing.

Best,
Rick