A few months ago, i picked up a 2.5" 66-3 in trade with a local fellow. Not super minty, but tight. Never been opened, minimal flame cutting, not a single screw had a mar on it, very solid. I took it home and was familiarizing myself with it when i noticed the trigger pull was a bit heavy. I sprayed a bit of CLP into the gun forward of the hammer, then dry fired it several times to work it in. Before long the hammer and trigger was coated in orange CLP. Oh-no, rust. I resisted the temptation of poping the sideplate, and settled on removing the grips ang giving it a CLP bath. I would hose it inside, dry fire, let it sit a while and repeat. After two days, the CLP started coming out clear so I wiped it down, put the grips back on it and shot the heck out of it. I havn't seen any more rust, but for some reason, I can't let it go.

There isn't a local smith I would trust with a Raven, let alone my Smith. I could get it sonicly cleaned, but that wouldn't address any corrosion issues. I could call S&W, but I dont know receptive they would be to a second hand 30 year old pistol with possible rust issues. Is there an out of state Smith pro willing to take such a mundane task? Is this a non-issue? I'm overthinking things aren't I.

Jakk586,

The internal parts of your 66 are made of high carbon steel and spring steel. I would try to find a competent gunsmith to remove the side plate to clean or replace the corroded parts. You could also call S&W the worst they could say is no they wouldn't work on your gun.

Ummm, remove the sideplate yourself and clean as needed, it's not a difficult thing to do I do it on all of my new Smith revolvers.

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Sie vis pacem parabellum

I agree and I also do the same.

I'm great at taking things apart to see where the problem lies. It's the putting it back together part that always gets me. At the very least I would remove the side plate to inspect and determine the extent of the problem. If the internals have started to rust, you need to get the gun to a competent gunsmith or back to the factory.

I have heard that spraying WD-40 into the internals is not recommended, as it becomes gummy after a while and actually attracts and holds dirt. Once you open the side plate, you may want to spray with a different lubricant. My gunsmith/dealer turned me on to ezee-ox a few years ago, I have been using it with good results ever since.

Brownells sells a screwdriver set that is just for S&W revolvers, replacable tips sized just for the screws you need and ground parallel.

Once rust starts it is difficult to get rid of, I would have to know what the conditions inside are, just send it to S&W for a quote.

Agree on the WD40. It's a solvent that will degrade the petroleum lubricants present and cause them to gum up if not completely cleaned away.

With a little practice and patience AND the proper tools/technique, removing a sideplate, taking out the internals, cleaning and re-assembling are not a big deal. If you are ham-handed and can't change a tire, or chew gum and walk at the same time, you probably should leave it to someone with some experience.

A set of hollow ground screwdrivers is a must, and a rebound spring tool makes life a lot easier. Other than that, it's just technique for not boogering the screws and sideplate flange and losing parts when removing the internals.

But the interior portions do rust and corrode due to condensation and exposure to extreme conditions if not properly maintained. The opposite extreme is wear from a "dry" gun where all the lube has been flushed out by strong solvent and not properly re-administered.

If you are uncertain about working on the gun yourself, the factory should still have internal parts for the 66-3. Barrels and cylinders, probably not. It's probably worth at least a phone call to the factory parts or service department to check.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

This is a clear case of disassemble, clean throughly, lubricate sparingly, and reassemble. I have bought several older S&W's that were pristine on the outside but were starting to rust on the inside from lack of basic maintenance. There are plenty of directions on the forum and Youtube for disassembly and reassembly.

Are you sure it's rust?
A gun that has been stored a long time could have old oil in it that turns dark orange after years of sitting and mixing with powder residue/dirt.
This is what you might be seeing coming out of the gun.

I had an old Detective Special that I purchased. It had orange goo coming out from the yoke area. When I removed the screw and pulled out the yoke, I found it to only be old oil.

1. Hang on to the gun.
2. You might want to pick up a copy of the Smith & Wesson Shop manual.
It's a handy book to have around and will illustrate how to use the correct screwdrivers and open the side plate for a look-see. Step by step instructions and pictures.
It really makes what seems like an intimidating task, actually very easy.

You'll gain confidence and learn quite a lot in the process.
Good luck with your gun.

Removing the sideplate is not a bid deal. The two major concerns are: 1) USE THE CORRECT SCREWDRIVER FOR EACH SCREW! and 2) DON'T EVER TRY TO PRY THE SIDEPLATE OFF!

As others have stated, there are probably plenty of Youtube videos that show sideplate removal and internal disassembly and reassembly. When removing the sideplate, after all of the screws have been removed, turn the gun over and cover the opposite side with a clean rag or piece of clean soft leather. Tap gently holding about 6 inches over a clean towel or rag (to catch the sideplate) with a plastic hammer and the sideplate will generally fall off.

Clean the internals, lubricate and then replace the sideplate and screws. Should be good as new.

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James Redfield
LM #497

If you're hesitant to disassemble your 66, just call SW Customer Service and ask for Kelley. She is an outstanding customer service person and will give you the straight info. I'm fairly certain that SW will work on it, but no idea as to cost.

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... ed ...

Trust me, opening and cleaning a 66 is dead easy.

Tens of millions of soldiers, sailors, airmen, and Marines with no previous technical or mechanical skills have been taught to maintain, disassemble, and clean firearms.

Get a manual or guide, use the proper tools, work on a clean towel on a well lit clean table and you'll be fine.

There are videos on you-tube, books, manuals, this forum... Really there is no reason at all that you can't do this.

Now go to it!

/c

i have popped the sideplate and done a detail strip of quite a few smiths and am familiar with the procedure. and cleaning is less the issue here as thorough inspection by a much more experienced eye than me.

it's just that this particular 66 is just so...good. i fear changing anything or leaving a single mark on it will somehow make it less good. i can assure you, i'm not normally this anal about my guns,. there is just something about this gun that makes me pause. it's just so whole.

$5 for set of the S&W sized screw tips from Brownells that will fit in any of the replaceable hex-socket type screwdrivers you can buy anywhere. If you're careful you can remove the sideplate and it won't even look any different. I have a 10-14 that I've opened up 30 or more times and you would never know by looking at it.

When I buy a new S&W, like my 617, I always remove the sideplate to get that ****** preservative grease out of there, check it out to make sure the assemblers didn't leave any metal shavings in there, and clean it up a little bit.

Most PD revolvers had the plates popped off once a year by the armorer for inspections, sometimes more. 99.9% of my trade in revolvers have been opened up in the past, and usually not carefully.

If it's a PD trade in, I would be shocked if the sideplate had never been off......I buy a lot of used S&W's and it would be a challenge for me to find one that didn't have a little buggering on the screws. It doesn't bother me, my ex-PD revolvers were duty guns, not safe queens and the armorers didn't sweat blood trying to surgically remove the sideplates so as to not mar the screws. I have a 581 that looks like someone took the screws out with a dime....most have that line of peening at the top of the sideplate from being pried off, too.

These are just tools. Unless you have an unfired original NIB revolver what's the problem with working on a tool? You won't affect the value of the gun by removing the side plate and giving it a good cleaning.

Your original post indicated a reluctance to open up the gun. It is not his fault that your reluctance was due to some kind of superstition rather than lack of experience, as indicated by your last post. He gave you the benefit of doubt and attributed it to rational thinking.

If you have reason to believe that your revolver needs cleaning, clean it! If you're not sure, and you know how to open it up, open it up and find out.

P.S. I do not consider your feelings irrational. I have had them at times about certain guns. However, your 66 is NOT whole. It needs cleaning. It is the EXTERIOR that you feel good about. Since you have had Smiths apart before, you know that if you use proper screwdrivers and don't slip, and remove the sideplate properly, the exterior of the gun is not going to change. As far as the interior, I see only improvement in its future. Most likely all it needs is a relube, but if you have to replace a spring or two, it's no big deal. What else would be rusty, if anything? I see your situation as a non-problem. Anyone who knows enough to be worried, and has experience opening up Smiths, is going to be careful enough not to damage anything. Except for screwheads and sideplates, they're not all that fragile.

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Formerly Model520Fan

Removing the side plate is not hard at all if you follow directions witch can be found on this forum. I have done a lot of work on firearms over the years, and also worked on the machinery at work. You do need to have the gun cleaned and re-lubricated or the rust will come back, I have seen large amounts of rust flushed out of parts of machinery with almost no damage at all, so it might not be that bad but you need to check it out to be sure. (good luck) I have a 66-2 they are great guns.

The internal parts of the Model 66-3 are stainless steel, not carbon.
It's very difficult to get these parts to rust due to them being internal and protected from most corrosion.
As above, what you probably saw was dirty old lubricant.

You have options:

1. Buy a S&W specific Brownell's Magna-Tip screwdriver set and a copy of the Jerry Kuhnhausen Shop Manual.
The manual is a real pistolsmiths manual used to train new gunsmiths.
It shows 100% disassembly and check-out the FACTORY way.
You can use the drivers and manual to at least remove the side plate and inspect for internal rust or damage without harming the gun.

2. Send the gun in to S&W. They will be very happy to inspect and clean the gun, and while they have it, they'll replace or repair any worn parts.
The gun will come back in factory new operating condition.
Prices are very reasonable, and turn around is fast.


BROWNELLS : S&W SCREWDRIVER - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools

HERITAGE GUN BOOKS : THE S&W REVOLVER - A SHOP MANUAL - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools

I've bought several old revolvers that appeared as if they had never-ever been apart.

Took em apart and literaly full of dirt..crud.****st..etc.

Really doesn't appear to hurt anything as far as function..and most of the old guns were not all that pretty externaly anyhow.

Worst one is/was an old S&W M&P .38 Special..I scraped a palm-full of crud from it's lockwork...An old Colt 1917 had a stuck firingpin(hammer mounted) I had to free up...An Old Italian M1889(Bodeo) was likewise clean full of ****, this despite it's 'quick remove' sideplate(nobody ever removed it, I guess).

A little Ruger Super Bearcat I bought cheap had some funky 'custom' grips installed that the previous owner had dressed up by covering the grip screw with a glued on brass round cover on each side. This poor gun had some really active rust under the grips. I've got several auto-pistols(milsurps) that likewise had some pretty bad rust going on under the grips.

I've come to the conclusion that it's best to take about any used gun apart and clean the crud out of them. More modern handguns being the only possible exception..and then only if I don't think they are likely to be full of dirt.

Yes, I agree, unless you have a rare gun like an old, NIB 29 or Registered Magnum, no harm will be done from removing the sideplate. The only time you will see screw or peening damage is if someone was careless or didn't have the right tools. Heck, my new 617 came from the factory with some galling on the screw slots from assembly.

I have dozens of S&W's and only two can I say the plates have never been off, because they've been in the family since 1989 and know 100% they have never been dissasembled.

The others, I would be very hard pressed to find one of my S&W's that doesn't have at least a little evidence of dissasembly. I also collect ex-PD guns, so that might explain it.

I feel any S&W that is going to see any use, should have the plate taken off for periodic inspection and cleaning.

simply find someone who has a "heated" ultrasonic cleaner, and when using any of the oil lubes like LPS or whatever, when heated and vibrated overnight, it ALL comes out,you just take off the grips............
sorry I no longer have one, got rid of it when we 'retired'' but they did work...used them at work at GE for cleaning wire dies, same thing.........
I know of folks who have NEVER taken their firearms apart, and they are flawless and clean........................I agree with the above, whatever is in there just needs to be "flushed" out and then re-oiled properly.........it does take time

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dan
NRA Benefactor,PMA

Just like the guys say, get a screwdriver set that fits and open that baby up. The more you open, clean, adjust and admire the insides of Smiths the more you will like them!
I guarantee! Not from Louisiana but have spent enough time there to learn to say that.

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NRA LIFE MEMBER

You guys realize this thread is 3 years old? Think he might have gotten it cleaned up by now?

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183rd FBINA

He hasn't been back.i bet he pried it off...