I have never had a j frame, but I am interested in buying a couple of them for the wife and myself to carry. When I looked at them at the gunshow a few weeks ago I couldn,t believe all the designations which didn't seem to have any rhime or reason at all. Are the designations specific to caliber or did some engineer ay S and W just pick a number to put on the guns.

With regard to finishes, generally, any model number that begins with a "6" is stainless steel or silver-anodized/clear-coated aluminum alloy. Any model number that begins with a "0", "3", "4", or "5" is blued steel or black-anodized/clear-coated aluminum alloy (or scandium alloy). There are exceptions, of course.

With regard to features or caliber...no there isn't really any scheme.

A listing of calibers/models (mostly complete):
.22 Long Rifle caliber: Model 34, 35, 43, 63, 317
.22 Magnum caliber: Model 51, 351, 650, 651
.32 Long caliber: Model 30, 31
.32 H&R Magnum caliber: Model 032, 331, 332, 431, 432, 631, 632
.327 Federal Magnum caliber: Model 632
.38 S&W caliber: Model 32, 33
.38 Special caliber: Model 36, 37, 38, 40, 42, 49, 50, 60, 042, 337, 342, 442, 460 (perf. center), 637, 638, 640, 642, 649
.357 Magnum caliber: Model 60, 340, 360, 640, 649
9x19mm/9mm Luger caliber: Model 940


Hammer Configuration:
Most of the differences have to do with exposed vs. shrouded vs. concealed hammers and the materials the frames (and sometimes cylinders) are made from.

Exposed hammer spur/"Chief's Special":
Models 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 43, 50, 51, 60, 63, 317, 331, 337, 351, 360, 431, 631, 637, 650, 651

Shrouded hammer spur/"Bodyguard" (anti-snag, but can still be cocked for single-action firing):
Models 38, 49, 638, 649

Concealed hammer/"Centennial" (double-action only, internal hammer):
Models 40, 42, 032, 042, 332, 340, 342, 432, 442, 460, 632, 640, 642, 940


Frame/Cylinder Material:
Most 2-digit model numbers are carbon steel-framed, and most 3-digit model numbers are stainless steel or alloy framed (some exceptions, of course).

Carbon Steel frame (blued or nickel-plated):
Models 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 40, 49, 50, 51

Stainless Steel frame:
Models 60, 63, 640, 649, 650, 651, 940

Aluminum Alloy frame w/ steel cylinder/"Airweight" (black anodized, nickel plated, or silver anodized):
Models 37, 38, 42, 43, 032, 042, 431, 432, 442, 460, 631, 632, 637, 638, 642

Aluminum Alloy frame w/ Scandium or Titanium cylinder/"Airlite"
Models 317, 331, 332, 337, 340, 342, 351, 360
(the 317 is a bit of an exception, with its frame, cylinder, and barrel shroud all made from aluminum alloy)


Model Number Lineage:
In many cases, the modern model number (3xx, 4xx, 6xx) is based on the historical model number, for example:
S&W Model 42 (black alloy "Centennial" frame, grip-safety, blued steel cylinder, concealed hammer, .38 Special)
S&W Model 042 (black alloy "Centennial" frame, no grip-safety, blued steel cylinder, concealed hammer, .38 Special)
S&W Model 342 (black alloy "Centennial" frame, no grip-safety, scandium cylinder, concealed hammer, .38 Special)
S&W Model 442 (black alloy "Centennial" frame, no grip-safety, blued steel cylinder, concealed hammer, .38 Special)
S&W Model 642 (silver alloy "Centennial" frame, no grip-safety, stainless steel cylinder, concealed hammer, .38 Special)

Same for the 37 (37, 337, 637) and 40 (40, 340, 640, 940).

Sometimes, the lineage goes from the blued to stainless to alloy models, as in the .38 Chief's Special:
S&W Model 36 -> S&W Model 60 -> S&W Model 360

And to further confuse things, some models were built both as .38 Special-only and .357 Magnum versions, usually with concurrent dash-numbers. For example, the Model 60: S&W Model 60 no-dash through -8 are .38 Special only. S&W Model 60-9, -10, -14, -15, and -18 are .357 Magnum, while S&W Model 60-11, -13, -16, and -17 are .38 Special.


Back when model numbers were first stamped on S&W revolvers (1957), Models 10-19 were K-frame guns, 20-29 were N-frame guns, and 30-38 were J-frame guns. Things changed with the Model 39 (9mm semi-automatic pistol, single-stack, double-action/single-action, slide-mounted safety), and model numbers were assigned as guns were developed:

40 (J-frame revolver, .38 Special)
41 (semi-auto pistol, .22LR)
42 (J-frame revolver, .38 Special)
43 (J-frame revolver, .22LR)
44 (semi-auto pistol, 9mm)
45 (K-frame revolver, .22LR)
46 (semi-auto pistol, .22LR)
47 (semi-auto pistol, 9mm)
48 (K-frame revolver, .22 Magnum)
49 (J-frame revolver, .38 Special)
50 (J-frame revolver, .38 Special)
51 (J-frame revolver, .22 Magnum)
52 (semi-auto pistol, .38 Special)
...you get the idea.

Then the Second Generation semi-auto pistols came along (4xx, 5xx, 6xx) along with the L-frame revolvers (2xx, 5xx, 6xx), stainless N-frame revolvers (6xx), and then the 3rd Gen semi-auto pistols (4xx, 9xx, 1xxx, 3xxx, 4xxx, 5xxx, 6xxx)...and then this explosion of J-frame revolvers (3xx, 4xx, 6xx). As you can tell, it's pretty confusing with the model numbers all running together.

i am just sitting here, perusing the world wide web, and i love j frames, so i will talk to you a little about them. i think the vast array of j frames is the reason they are so much more interesting than other manufacturers.

first are the early j frames, which were based on the very early i frames, but had their cylinder elongated for the 38 special cartridge, among other minor changes. the steel framed gun was the chief's special, and the aluminum framed gun was the chief's special airweight. these had the hammer exposed in the conventional revolver manner. here is a picture of a chief's special with target sights:

the bodyguard had the "humpback" frame shrouding the hammer, and the bodyguard airweight was the same design with the frame made from aluminum. here is a flatlatch bodyguard airweight showing the frame hump.

the third frame design was the centennial. it had the hammer assembly totally enclosed by the frame, and had a rear "squeeze" safety system. the aluminum frame guns were centennial airweights. here is a picture of a flatlatch centennial:

in 1958 s&w started using number designations for the various models. the chief's special became the model 36, and the chief's special airweight became the model 37.
the bodyguard became the model 49, and the bodyguard airweight became the model 38.
the centennial became the model 40, and the centennial airweight became the model 42.
in 1969, s&w produced the first stainless j frame. it is basically a model 36 made from stainless steel, and is named the model 60. s&w uses the "6" prefix for stainless revolvers after this.
here is a pic of a model 60:

after this there is an explosion of new models! a "3" prefix usually denotes "lightweight", such as 340pd. this is a centennial model (40) with titanium and scandium used to produce an insanely light variation. the 360 is basically the 60/chief's special configuration with the ti/scandium features.
a "4" prefix usually denotes a black finish (442), where the "6" prefix denotes silver finish (638-humpback/airweight/silver, 637-conventional chief/airweight/silver).

this is a basic tutorial. i am not an expert by any means of the definition!
there are a multitude of j-frames that i haven't mentioned, from early 32s (6 shot)(model 30, 31, etc), 22s (model 34), 38s&w (model 32), and their "pre" models, to the beforementioned modern stuff. almost every numbered model has several "-" iterations where enough of a change has been made for s&w to decide it needs a new model number (36-1with 3inch barrel, 36-2. 36-3, etc,) but, this ought to give you a rough idea of the lineage of most of the designs.

i think they are fascinating!

You skipped the Model 638.

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VIVERE MILITARE EST

Wait a minute ...S.E. Tennessee location, "Keep Your Stick On The Ice" sig.?!

Gotta be a Preds fan,

CBJ fan here. Hence the "blujax" moniker.

See you in the playoffs - hopefully!

Sorry for the derail, love my J frame.

I knew I missed one or two in there.

Edit: I think the listing is complete now...maybe!

Nope, Redwings all the way!!

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VIVERE MILITARE EST

Very informative...Thanks for the detailed model listing

Excellent post by ‘valkyriek1’ although it reminds me of how old I am as I’ve owned many of those listed. Unfortunately, I was never a collector and sold them in short order for something else. The real confusion has been in the last 2-3 years with the so-called ‘pro-series’ designations.

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Dan Ortego ~

Thanks for your help, makes a little more sense now.

I'd love to own them all, but to me a J-frame has only one use and therefore I only need to own one at a time. Currently that one J-frame for me is a S&W 640 no-dash:



Though I'm considering picking up a S&W 442 or 642 again for lighter belt-carry/pocket-carry. I used to have a 642 but I let it go once I picked up the 640:



The 640 shoots softer (steel frame = more mass to absorb recoil), but the 442/642 carries lighter. I also used to have a Model 60-7 LadySmith with the most wonderful J-frame single-action trigger I've ever felt (and a very nice double-action trigger, too), but alas it, too, found a new home in favor of the 640 (the hammer spur didn't quite jive well with my method of carry, and I didn't have the heart to bob it):



Hmm.

With that, what does the 'pro-series' designation indicate?

In most cases the Pro designation means a sight option such as fibre optic front sight. However, I have a strong hunch that somewhere at the S&W factory they have a room full of labels they just throw into the air. Then whatever is on the small table in the center of the room face up is the name or model of that new gun.

At least the "Airweight" (aluminum alloy frame, steel cylinder) and "AirLite" (aluminum alloy frame, scandium or titanium cylinder) names make sense.

So in terms of the modern J frames, does the "pro series" indicate nothing more than having the cylinder machined for moon clips?

If I could only have one, that would be the one.

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Centennial Every Day

That and I think some of them are ported.

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Centennial Every Day

Hmm...according to the marketspeak on S&W's website:

...it sounds like "Pro Series" is geared toward combat pistol competitors who want to have a "stock gun" and still have an edge. In IPSC and IDPA, there are classes where a shooter may compete with a gun that has had no aftermarket modifications -- no special sights, no cylinder modifications, no nothing. If these mods are done at the factory, then the shooter can use the gun in these 'stock' or 'production' competition classes.

I think I'd like the moon-clip modification on a J-frame, though; it'd be handy to load and unload all in one go without having to fumble with speed-strips or speed loaders.

I've had too many problems with headspacing problems and bent clips. I don't use moon clips any longer. They're also a real pain to carry.

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Centennial Every Day

Well, I've taken the plunge and I had my dealer order a 442 Pro Series for me. We'll see how it goes!

Keep us posted. Sounds like a nice gun.

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Centennial Every Day

I have a 640-1 Centeniel model which is very close to the 640 and I love it. It's stainless and a j-frame which makes it a perfect concealment gun for a small women.

I have an old (early) Mod 36 Chief's Special that I inherited. Once belonged to a local police detective who had a "trigger job" done on it. The gun is a liability for concealed carry. If fired from a cocked hammer it only takes a breath to drop the hammer. I need to know where to purchase a new factory original hammer for the gun. Any suggestions, anyone?

Could also be due to a stretched frame if it was run with a lot of hot ammo/reloads. If it's an issue for you, having a good gunsmith evaluate it would be my advice.

Old School is still the best!. ...

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Free people ought to be armed

All vintage S&W's have "hair triggers" in single-action mode IMHO. Replacing the hammer won't help, heavier springs will increase the pull weight but probably not much in SA. You're better off shooting it i DA mode only. I own several Chief Spoecials, all but one have the hammer spur bobbed off. This prevents the spur from being snagged on clothes or poking flesh, the side benefit is making the gun (pretty much) double-action-only. Single action shooting has only very limited application in self-defense. Research the DAO "NYC" S&W's for more info.

I tried to copy the part with all the data in it, so it could be taken with me when I go "browsing" S&W revolvers. Wordperfect just make jibberish of it. Is there something "special" that is required?

I had the same idea to make a copy for reference. I right clicked to "copy" then opened up Word Office. Then right click to "paste" That worked for me.

Thanks to Valkyrierkl and ar15ed for comprehensive listing of J-frame versions, lots of work there.

I would recommend the 640 or 642 for personal defense carry because both are double-action only. No worry about getting challenged for accidentally shooting the gun in single action. And both conceal better without the hammer spur.

I have both, probably should stick to one or the other but like them both to much. Watch for canted barrels on any new ones you buy.

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"Sacramento" Bruce Conklin

I got it to work this time. After copying, the program (Word) displays a bunch of "squiggly" stuff. Just select it and "clear formatting" and all is well. What a great post!

Some years back, the continuity of the S&W model numbering system went south.

What is this one? I think made in 1954 or 55. There is no model number on it just a serial number in the 50XXX. From what I understand it is a Chief Special. I sure like it for Sunday carry.

Nice old Chiefs Special flat latch .
I have carried the J frame more often than all my other handguns combined.
The only thing better is TWO of them.



Mine is a bit newer for an older one.


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What a great list. Looking back this list would have been and will still be a huge help. I am relatively knew to handguns and this site and still find it difficult when members throw around so many model numbers.
Valkyriekl, I will gratefully accept your gracious help.

Morgan88