I was hoping some of you could help me diagnose a strange "hitch" in the action on my new 386NG. It was my first time out at the range with it today... I first noticed this when I did a quick clean and oil the day I got it... it was brand new I just enjoy cleaning my guns. Anyway the trigger is very heavy (especially compared to my 686+ which is very smooth... love that gun... but I am getting off topic).

I chalked up the heavy trigger on the 386 to a new gun and I thought I would have to "work it in" a bit right? Well at the range when I started out shooting some single action and I began to feel the hammer develop a "hitch" (best way I can describe it). Pull it back to cock it and it gets tight about 2/3 the way back... have to give it a little extra pull to lock it back. Weird? Normal in a new gun? This is my 3rd S&W revolver and I have never experienced it before in my other guns.

I have never had a trigger job done on my others either but this new 386 seems to cry out for something. Anyone experience something like this? Suggestions?

Thanks in advance... I learn a ton from reading here and really appreciate all members who are willing to share their knowledge.

Pax

Sounds like it may be the hand. Does it happen just after carry-up?

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NRA - All Day

Open the cylinder, and push the thumpiece forward to allow the action to be worked. Check to see if you have the "bind". If not, the the hand that rotates the cylinder is binding on the ratchets. its a pretty common condition. If that is the case, the easiest fix, if it works, is to replace the hand with one about .002 smaller in width. If the bind is still there with the cylinder open, the problem is inside the frame.

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Richard Gillespie
FBINA 102

There are several areas that can cause a hitch like this.

One candidate is the hammer dragging on the frame, if so in short order you'll be able to see rub marks that this will produce.

Another possibility may be linked to the very heavy trigger you report, if you have access to a trigger pull gage I would suggest that you determine exactly how heavy it is. If the DA pull is over 12 lbs., I would suggest that you return it to the factory for a bit of a tuneup, too much mainspring tension can increase the wear on the lockwork. Personally I've found 8.5 to 9 lbs. to be 100% reliable in my revolvers but S&W's lately seem to come with 10-12 lbs. triggers, probably to insure reliable function after 20 to 30 years of use.

You should also check to make sure the internal lock is fully rotated to the Unlock position, if it's just slightly out of position it might cause this hitch that you are feeling. One issue concerning your Night Guard is that it is pretty light and the lock might come out of position if your not really firm in controlling the muzzle flip. IMO S&W really should either reverse the direction to engage the lock or drop it altogether. A slightly out of position lock might also contribute to a heavy DA trigger. BTW, if you find the internal lock wont stay in the Unlock position, I would suggest you return the gun to have the lock replaced. It will provide on more example of lock problems to S&W. When it's returned you can then remove the lock if you've lost confidence in it.

Another possibility is a hand/cylinder stop bind, another area that should be addressed by a warranty claim. This isn't something that is easy to spot, it's an area that needs someone well versed in this lockwork to identify. About the only hint of this being an issue is a cylinder that doesn't have any play at all in the rotation when the gun is fully cocked, on a S&W there should be some play at full cock.

Final thought is the cylinder dragging on the barrel due to a tight B/C gap in combination with powder fouling. This is real easy to spot, you'll see the drag marks on the face of the cylinder. If so, it's a another warranty issue.

I would advise that you contact the factory. You've paid a good sum of money for a new gun and it's not quite right. It's why we have warranties, it's to fix the occasional mistakes that happen with any man made item. Good news is the S&W has a great reputation for fixing warranty issues quickly.

Thanks for the replies and helping me figure out this weird hitch...I do not see any visible indications of hammer dragging on the frame nor do I think it is the lock... I engaged it on and off and no problems there.

From what I can tell from my observations it could be the hand as the hammer does "hitch" right after the cylinder carries up. It could also be due to a tight gap between the forcing cone and cylinder... I noticed very slight drag marks on the face of the cylinder but only by a couple of the chambers... not the entire face.

Looking for specific indicators of the problem helped alot. I am contacting the factory and sending it in for a check up. Because of your posts I will be able to let S&W know about the problems in a more accurate manner. Thanks again.

pax