I been wanting to get a new S&W N frame in 357mag while i perfer a nickel finish this one looks good too. So many choices i may end up getting both. Congrats i figured the larger n frame would handle better in 357mag too. It handles the 41mag round awesome too.

Groo here
You might look at Simple Rugged for holsters..
I use their pancake for most of my revolver carry...

I miss mine.

Wow John, that pic is awesome. I know what revolver I am getting next.

Good luck finding one!

All of you chose very , very well. I am trying to find the snub nose 627.

Thanks for all of the input.

I have just read a few postings discussing the 627 Pro, so I hope this helps with some questions.
Here are my questions and the reply from Smith & Wesson:
I plan to purchase a model 627; either the Pro Series or a Performance Center model. (SKU: 178014 or 170210)
Questions:
- what is the cylinder gap for these?
- is the rifling and crown of the same quality on both?
- is there any reason 170210 will be more reliable over the life of the unit more than 178014?
- are there any MIM parts on the Performance Center revolvers and 170210 in particular? (I have no issues with MIM parts and know S&W is a quality product.) Curious due to the Chrome on the trigger, trigger stop, and hammer.
Reply from S&W:
The BC gap is .004 to .010, same quality and reliability, the parts are chromed MIM.
+++++++++++++++
My CNC products have a .002 or .003 cylinder gap, so I expect a 627 to have the same. My 27-2 and 29-2 both have a .003.
Muzzle crown is very important to accuracy. Don’t accept mediocrity. Remember, your revolver is a life saving device!
My research tells me MIM parts are injected (look up Rheology), however they are heat treated (metal conditioning treatments) just like the cast steel, et al., and has seen said to be made to look like case hardened steel, although my MIM triggers and hammers do not – they are a dull grey.
Note: Before I retired one of my many duties was Process Model Expert for software manufacture – (Quality Control, Quality Assurance, Process Management, Efficiency expert, SOP writer, etc.). Manufacturers use MIM because it works when properly done. Smith & Wesson says they do their own metallurgy. Their lifetime guarantee would not be viable if MIM parts did not meet quality standards. I have full faith in S&W and their ISO certification (quality control), because I know firsthand what it takes to get and keep ISO certification.
p.s. Back in the day, my first LEO issue side arm was a Model 19. I consistently hit 5 or 6 of 6 12 ga. casings from the 50 yard line (prone) using full power .357s. S&W revolvers are accurate; I like them, especially .357 Remington Magnum. It has been said a pistol is a machine, however a S&W revolver is a work of art. I like my art in the N frame.

Woodstock7

Few years back I snagged the 5" PC version, 8 shooter a 627-5. I'm ashamed to say I have no idea what the product code may be. Did come in the PC shop aluminum case, though any outer case with the code...long gone.

I am far more accustomed to N frames with the traditional SQUARE frame configuration versus the smallish ROUND butt on this gun, but a set of Herrett Jordan Trooper stocks solved that issue.

The gun was a laser right from the start. Didn't seem to matter if it was a 148 WC or a full boat .357 mag load, it shoots everything very accurately.

The balance with the 5" barrel is about perfect for me.

If you use moon clips, it's best to use RNFP bullets with a roll crimp. Semi-wadcutters tend to hang up entering the cylinder, as to swage type crimps on factory ammo.

Moon clips come in several thicknesses. It's best if they fit the groove above the cartridge base snugly. That way the bullets don't flop around as much when you're trying to load.