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05-26-2018, 12:50 AM
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stoning J frame aluminum frames
Hello Everybody, Yet another of my questions. I've watched several videos on youtube where a gunsmith (supposedly professional) working on an Airweight stoned the rebound channel and the axles (wrong word perhaps?) and their bases on which the hammer and and the trigger pivot (as well as the usual rebound block and sides of the hammer and trigger, etc.). Now, my assumption is that Airweight frames are anodized aluminum. Assuming that 's the case, wouldn't it be just wrong to stone the any of the anodized parts? Have I missed something?
Cheers,
John
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05-26-2018, 01:40 AM
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The only reason I see to stone those areas would be if there was a high spot left from poor factory machining or binding due to excessive tolerances. In those cases, it wouldn't matter what the base material was, you would still correct the problem. If no problem exists, then I see no need to stone.
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Chris
SWCA #2243 SWHF #292
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05-26-2018, 08:19 AM
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I've done quite a bit of Smithin' over the years but I have never stoned the Hammer or Trigger Studs (never had to)! Sounds like a quick way to ruin a perfectly good Revolver. The fit is pretty precise and if stoned will more than likely be loose and out of round in short order. IMHO a recipe for trouble - but just my opinion of course.
As far as the Rebound Slide area of the Frame goes - if there are no burrs - leave well enough alone! If you have a burr (if the gun is used I doubt there will be one any longer), address THAT only! One or two strokes will remove a burr. Do not go any more than absolutely necessary or you will cause more problems than you solve!
PS: Aluminum tends to clog up Stones fast.
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05-27-2018, 07:01 AM
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Sounds like a good way to wear out an aluminum frame quick.........
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Chewy
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05-27-2018, 08:38 AM
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Unless I'm mistaken (it happens from time to time), S&W anodizes their aluminum frames and receivers. Anodizing provides protection from oxidation and gives the the aluminum a very hard surface. Stoning is going to remove that anodized surface, leaving relatively soft aluminum. Sounds like trouble to me.
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05-27-2018, 08:53 AM
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Yea these guys are correct you don't want to start messing with a frame inside especially an air weight J unless you are a sure enough competent gunsmith . If you have a Jframe that is rough or has hard to pull through spots and doesn't get better with some use you would be well ahead to let a pro work on it trust me I have ruined a couple of guns and had to pay a real gunsmith to put a couple back together ( not just expensive but embarrassing also) .Except for reputable companies like the Brownells videos ect I stay away from utube gunsmithing from personal experiance.
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05-27-2018, 03:13 PM
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Anodizing is also a surface hardening treatment for Aluminum, the color is actually die added to the anodizing bath. Don't even think about doing anything that would remove any of the anodizing from the wear surfaces of an Aluminum framed S&W, they wear fast enough as it is!
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06-08-2018, 10:09 PM
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reinforcing my beliefs
Hello Everybody, Thanks to all who contributed their expertise on this question. You've reinforced my belief that one should never touch a stone to an anodized aluminum surface.
Cheers,
John
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