Any disadvantages in loading a revolver conventionally, without the moon clips, if the cylinder is cut to accept them? I was looking at a new S&W 642 and found them, on S&W's website, NO LOCK, but cut for moon clips. S&W product No. 178042. I'm looking for no lock, but not sure how the moon clip thing comes into play.

Factory S&W moon clip enabled revolvers in 38 & 357 are cut in a way that allows moon clips and regular loading. If its been modified by a gunsmith it may only work with moon clips. If you can load the ammo and it extracts with the extractor star you are probably ok.

I just picked up a 442 "Pro Series" (black/blued version of the 642 you're looking at) that has no-lock and has been cut for moonclips. You can use the gun without moonclips - the cylinder has been milled for a moonclip, but the rounds will still headspace properly without the moonclip.

They cylinder is cut like this: YouTube - machine-cylinder-short.mp4 (not sure if the machining is done in-house or if it's contracted out to somewhere like these guys - TK Custom).

I've never actually shot the gun WITH the moonclips (I've only owned it for about three weeks now), but I've played with the clips a bit, practicing loading and unloading. Loading is easy -- the moonclips hold the rounds VERY stiffly, with almost no wiggle (unlike the 10mm clips for my 610 and the .45ACP clips for my 25 and 625s), so once the rounds find the holes the whole thing drops right in with no finagling. Unloading also seems to be pretty easy; there is enough room between my grips (wood S&W J-frame magnas) and the cylinder for clipped empty casings to clear, no problem (clipped unfired rounds will still have most of the bullet nose in the chambers, though).

Thanks, that's exactly what I wanted to hear!

I've also got a 442 Pro Series (one of the first last year). You can you the moonclip, standard speedloaders, speed strips or loose rounds. My last speed strip disergrated on me because of heat (kept in the shed) so haven't tried them yet. TK Custom makes the moonclips for Smith and they do not recommand Starline brass or Winchester.




Welcome to TK Custom.com & Moonclips.com

Consider the moonclip as just another reloading option. You can use it when needed or reloaded with another means.

CD

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De Oppresso Liber

My advice would be to check the brass you have on hand in your clips, and see what fits.
I just did a check of some different brass in a standard 686 Moon Clip. Pre them coming in 3 sizes. What I found out.
Remington was a very good fit in brass that can be purchased new today. If I were buying new brass this would be my first choice. Winchester was a hair snug, but worked ok.

Fit OK:
REM UMC
Remington
Super X
Federal
LC 78
WCC 89
WRA
FC 85
FC+P+
Winchester

Very Tight did not get in by hand:
PMC
S&W

Very Loose, might be a problem to keep loaded:
Starline
3D

Any 38 brass should work just fine loose or fed from Speed Loaders. Most common brass other than Starline worked reasonably well in moon clips. Some of the ones on the fit list were a hair snug, but would work in my moon clips.

Hope this was of some help.

Bob

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ICORE MO2908

Hey, Dueeast; its only a stupid question, if you don't ask. As far as the moon clips...use 'em. They are much faster than speed-loaders. I've seen 6 rounds on target, a reload, and 6 more rounds on target in under 10 sec. Jerry M. @ Team S&W is much faster than that.

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Horacesmiff. 625 Shooter

Jerry could out shoot most of us with his left foot....some people are just gifted....

I have the same 642, Dueeast. S&W sent it to me last month as a warranty replacement for a 1991 vintage 642 that broke.

I plan on carrying the ammo that is in the gun loaded in those moon clips, primarily so they will all eject together with certainty. I have found from past experience that most moon clips are stamped from pretty thin sheet metal and many will bend if pocket-carried, affecting the ability to function when loaded; depending on how bent, you may have to really force the cylinder to close it. If you carry the moon clips in some sort of belt carrier to protect them, that works pretty well.

I carry my spare ammo on my body and in my vehicles in Safariland speed strips and/or HKS speed loaders.

2.99 seconds.

Buck

According to their website, TK sells moonclips in two thickness, which should better accomodate the differences in rounds.

Welcome to TK Custom.com & Moonclips.com

Here are a few pictures of various style cylinders for those who do not know the differences. First picture is a 357 machined for moonclips, second is for a rimless 45ACP and third is a 357 that is not machined for moonclips. Notice the second and third photo in the differences of the height of the extractor. For reference, M&P R8, 25-2 and 28-2.

James

Attached Images

	S&W cyl 1.jpg (74.7 KB, 491 views)
	S&W cyl 3.jpg (77.8 KB, 414 views)
	S&W cyl 4.jpg (65.2 KB, 420 views)

One advantage of loading your first 5 rounds via a moonclip is the positive ejection you get from the moonclip. On occasion you may get a piece of brass that falls under the ejector star and ties up the cylinder, or you may only get 3 or 4 of the 5 empties to drop free when loaded without a moonclip, again causing a problem with reloading the cylinder. A large number of people load the first cylinder full via moonclip, to facilitate positive ejection. Those same people don't care to carry a loaded moonclip or 2 for their spare ammunition since they are somewhat bulky. Instead they prefer to reload from a speed strip, or in some cases, pocket load.

HUGE disadvantage loading single rounds versus en'bloc "clip"!
S&W 642-1 PRO is a NO LOCK revolver.

Groo here
When shooting rimed cartridges , as long as there is a ridge or rim
around the outside of the cylinder to headspace on your ok.
Rimless should headspace on the mouth of the case like an auto[ some
M25/625's use the moonclip]

Sorry to bump this old thread, but I am very curious about a 586 l comp. I would probably use the moon clips for when I carry it. But at the range it would just be loose ammo. With just that small outer ring supporting the case rim, does that cause undo stress on the casings? I mean is the rest of the case have an air gap underneath it? Sorry for he novice question

Other models may be different, but S&W says the M640-1 can shoot .357 Magnum without using the moon clips, with no ill effects.

I have a 586 L comp 7 round cut for moonclips. If I carry the gun for work I load the cylinder with the moonclip. Beyond that, I carry an extra speedstrip or two. I find trying to push seven long rounds of .357 that are moving around into a cylinder with seven holes to be a ht or miss proposition, especially under stress.

I do like the the fact the first cylinder full loaded in a moonclip will eject in one easy motion.

In anybody is unaware, these guns do not need the moonclips to function.

Thanks for the information. I really like the extra features they provide on this model. I am just wondering if it is worth it, or maybe I should just go with the standard 686 Plus 3"

A question that no one has asked: Will Smith & Wesson alter a revolver that does not have OEM cylinder satisfactory for clips and without clips? I have a 640-1 without clip machining on cylinder. If such machining is available for subsequent 640-xx, either OEM or as an OEM option, I would consider it.

Today I started having misfires in a 686+ PC. I didn't have the moon clips with me, and prior to this I have had maybe one in five hundred rounds. I hate misfires, makes me get jerky. Next week I will try with them, these misfires are not acceptable.

The misfires are more likely your strain screw backing out - with or without the clip the rim is still headspacing on the outer rim of the cylinder.

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NRA Benefactor Member

After looking at, the clips don't have any effect on this. Is the strain screw in the handle?

Yep, it was backed out. Tightened and applied blue locktite. I had some screw problems on my Ruger too. Fixed it the same way. Back to the range.

I have and have had several guns that either required the use of moonclips or gave you the option, including a 586 L-Comp. The problem with moonclips and .38spls/.357mags is that the rounds are kinds of long and spindly and it's hard to get them all lined up with the charge holes at once. And, naturally, the more of them, the harder it is, kind of like trying to hold a spider by the body and push all of it's legs into the holes. I had a gunsmith chamfer the charge holes fairly aggresively in my L-Comp and that helped a lot with loading moonclipped rounds. Speedloaders hold the rounds more stable and, in general, it's easier to load .38/.357 revolvers with them.

My 9mm and .45ACP revolvers are the complete opposite, the stubby, rounder profile cartridges are practically sucked in into the cylinders when loading with moonclips.

That said, the L-Comp is a great revolver, however you work out your reloads.

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Don't kiss smiling dogs!

You've discovered half the solution to loading long cartridges with moon clips - chamfered charge holes. Of course that facilitates any type of loading method. In order to optimize loading long cartridges with clips, you have to stick to one head stamp and then find the clips that hold that brand the most rigidly. Hearthco are among the best clips and he makes them for specific brands of brass. Expensive, but worth it.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

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