In a prior post I explained our club instituting a new rule that during matches any brass hitting the ground is the club's property.

Several members opted out but I decided to purchase a revolver and keep shooting. I have a SW 14 (which is my first revolver) and replaced the mainspring to reduce the trigger pull.

We shoot 25 yard Bullseye matches. I have had no problem in slow fire where I can place the trigger in SA and then concentrate.

I am having trouble in rapid fire where the DA comes into play in keeping a tight group (as compared to my SW 952).

Any advice on how to shoot this event with a revolver?

Thanks

Robert

Practice, practice, and practice some more. I have been shooting a DA revolver in one form or another since I was 19 years old and it is all about trigger control. You could put a different set of springs and do a trigger job, but it still comes back to trigger control. Remember there is a very big difference between that single action trigger as far as pull vs the double action trigger. Just keep plugging away. Get a set of snap caps and just keep pulling that trigger. You have an excellent gun for 25 yard shooting.

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Vaya con Dios

LaPell has your answer -- dryfire practice repeated endlessly will get results! I would only add a couple of things. First,although some get best results from "staging" the trigger slightly, even in rapid fire, I find I get best results by concentrating on a smooth, straight-through pull with absolutely no hesitation. I combine this with complete concentration on keeping the front sight locked on to the target. Lightening the action can be beneficial, but I concentrate on smoothness in the action. Given a choice between smooth and light, I go with smooth every time.

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Pisgah

Fully agree with Pisgah. Smooth front to back, same speed. Less muzzle bobble. Also, remember that sighting and trigger pull are one operation, inseparable. Do not sight, then trigger. Throws bullets all over the place.

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Richard Gillespie
FBINA 102

While all of the above answers are correct, there is NO substitute for LOTS of practice and dryfire, I have a technique that might help you at least monitor your progress. I certainly didn't invent this one, been around for a LOOOONG time, especially "back in the day" with LEO shooters.

Place a dime on your barrel, balanced out near the front site. THEN do your dryfire practice. Don't worry about speed initially, that will come. What you are attempting to master is a smooth stroke in DA that will not dislodge the dime (a nickel works just as well ). I've found (and I still run this drill from time to time) that if you don't mix reloading practice with this drill, that means you're not taking the dime on/off constantly, but instead concentrate on getting as many pulls as you can before you tire, works best on developing not only smooth pull, but also a great rhythm. Should work just fine on the 6" er.

Try this, do it LOTS of times, and I'll bet you see your scores/hits improve.

Hope this helps.

How fast is the rapid fire? In NRA Bullseye the "rapid fire" segment is still pretty slow. It doesn't take very long to cock the hammer. As previously noted, very good accuracy can be obtained DA with practice.

if they won't let you keep the brass I would find a new place to shoot.....thats crazy!

Gotta roll with RightWinger on this one. That brass is YOUR property. If they need to keep something, let them have the lead.......

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'Nam 1968-69.DAV,VFW,NRA Inst.

I was debating to post on this as not to throw it off topic.
But really, is the clubs main goal it make it a revolver pistol club only? Cause that rule is ludicrous.
I tracked down your first post and have to agree with NamedFred.

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sw9ve, 24/7 pro Ds, Hs M4

There was certainly a lot of good information from all that replied and I really appreciate the tips. I just submitted an order to purchase a set of snap caps and I like the suggestion for the dime drill.

The biggest difference between the SW 14 and SW 952 to me is the length of pull and I would agree becoming familiar on smoothness would really help. I knew that years ago many shooters shot revolvers in matches and many great scores were obtained.

This a wonderful forum and there is always some great help and information.

Thanks

Robert

One additional point, use Federal primers. They are the most sensitive and allow for the lightest possible trigger pull to get reliable primer ignition.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Yep, we help each other out picking up brass and mags after a run.

You should mark your brass to begin with. Seeing how mostly all serious competitors make use of their own reloads. Its a rule unwritten or not to gather quickly and sort someplace other then the firing line.. This red marked brass is mine.. this one is someone elses and so on.
sorry for OT post
JC

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sw9ve, 24/7 pro Ds, Hs M4

I agree with what's been said especially the dime thing, but wanted to suggest that if you can take home a target and pin it to your wall, then using your prefered stance with the snapcaps! Practice dryfireing Double Action only at it, concentrating on that front blade and a smooth roll of the trigger. Your going for a surprise break here where the shot breaks without you knowing it! Dale

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"Long live the S&W 3rd. Gen.!"

Our club doesn't have that rule except for certain specific "lost brass" matches announced in advance.

The club uses all reclaimed brass to support Jr. league membership. It's paying off as the Jr. program is expanding....which I see as a good thing.

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Dum vivimus Vivamas

Shot the rapid fire stage with a revolver for years, single action even used a Ruger Black Hawk for a while.

It can be done, just get yourself a timer and a target on the wall and dry fire under time daily. Soon you will have to force your self to use all the time allowed.

Watch this video... How to shoot a Revolver with world record shooter, Jerry Miculek! (handgun grip & stance) - YouTube

Grab a glass of tea and enjoy (about 30 min long). Have me some good pointers I hadn't thought of.

Years ago when I shot Bullseye competition I used an overtravel screw behind my trigger. It had a rubber piece to it and allowed me to stage my double action shooting.

Use a smooth trigger pull and then it's like shooting a single action. You can still get them from Brownells. Just have to drill and tap your trigger.

@Merbeau,

I hate to be the one to toss in the monkey wrench, but when I shoot NRA 2700 matches (revolver in rimfire and centerfire stages), I only shoot single action. My K22 and K38 Masterpieces have the 3Ts.

The biggest trick that I have learned to shooting these revolvers single action in both timed and rapid fire, is to develop a consistent cadence. Generally, I can finish an accurate timed fire string in about 16 seconds, while an accurate rapid fire string takes about 9 seconds. Given that the NRA course of fire is 20 seconds for timed fire, and 10 seconds for rapid fire (firing 5 round strings), this is more than enough time.

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Judge control not gun control!

I shot PPC for about a decade and usually placed in the top of my class. for a while, and then the jump to the next class. By the time I was ready to quit I was Governor's 20.

I dry fired, a lot. Never used a dime, never used a target and never used a timer. A simple blank wall and my revolver. Align the sights and squeeze the trigger. Did the sights move? If so, you did it wrong. Get to the point you squeeze through with no sight movement and then take it to the range. Hang your target at 7 yards and load six. Get your sight picture and squeeze your first shot. All you are watching is the sight picture. Keep it consistent through the squeeze and from shot to shot. When the cylinder is empty you should have six in the 10 or X ring whichever you are using. If not, you should know what shots did not fall where they were supposed to because you saw the sights move. Practice each shot as slow as it takes to get an or 10. When you start getting all six in the right spot add in the timer but still go slowly. Anyone get get six shots off in a given amount of time. The idea is to get six properly aimed shots in the time limit. It takes a lot of practice. One of my mentors told me that by the time I accumulated a 5 gallon pail of spent primers I should be getting the hang of it. It did not take that long but it was not overnight. Watch the sight, keep watching them, and squeeze. I can still squeeze through double action and not move the sights. I still practice and I still dryfire. Probably 100 dryfires for every live shot.

When it all comes together, you will be proud of your accomplishment.

Kevin

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Unshared knowledge is wasted.

Me too, many years ago. I also found I had trouble cocking the hammer with my thumb without loosening my grip and changing it, especially in rapid fire. I built up the backstrap with tape until I had the right setback where I could cock the hammer without rolling the fat part of the base of my thumb off the grip. I found a simple Herrett grip that had about 1/4" of wood over the top part of the backstrap near the hammer. Moving the base of my thumb farther back and lots of dry fire to develop a straight back trigger pull, steady the front sight and develop the rhythm did the trick.

I suspect the reason for this is to stop competitors from policing their brass immediately after a stage. Because doing that would probably mean doubling the time for a match and generate a LOT of complaints about "slow players".

As for technique, I agree with all the others about lots and lots of dry fire practice and developing a smooth continuous trigger stroke. I will also note that you will find the rim of your snap caps will "shoot off" after about 700 strikes, so plan on keeping multiple sets of snap caps on hand.