Problem with extraction from one chamber of the cylinder on my Model 36. Purchased new in 1983. Rarely used...really "pristine". Spent case will not eject from one chamber. Used three different manufacturers' ammo (new)...158 gr. semiwadcutters. Case will eject part way and then no farther. Need to remove spent case with a dowel and hammer. Unfired ammo slips in and out with no problem at all. Cleaned all chambers. Hit the "bad" chamber with a .45 wire brush several times. Don't really want to get into any serious "gunsmithing". Oh, the gun hasn't had more than a 100 rounds through it... mostly wadcutters. And that was a long time ago.

Tom

Did you try letting solvent set in it for a while before brushing?

Have you measured the offending cylinder with a good set of calipers and compared it to the other cylinders?

Something that's worked for me, remove cylinder, chuck a brass bore brush in a cordless drill, dip brush in Hoppes, stick brush in chamber, & clean away.

Don't have the calipers or know how. Why would an unfired cartridge move in and out of the cylinder chamber freely, but a fired one will not extract. The spent cartridge will come about 1/4 -1/2 inch out of the chamber before it gets "stuck".

Would a stainless brush be better than a brass one? Will try soaking longer with solvent.

Sure wish I would have shot this gun more when it was new. It probably has not been fired for twenty years and has been in it's box unloaded for that period of time. Was going to use it for my CCW class. Guess I'll have to use my Ruger Speed Six instead.

Right now I'm soaking the offending cylinder chamber with #9.

Need to add. Spent cartridge extraction was OK when last fired. The gun has never had any "hot" loads through it.

Tom

Some .38 SPL loads will blow back some gunk down the side of the cartridge case inside the cylinder. Or, you could have some lead buildup in that hole. Google "Lewis Lead Remover' for the solution to that.

Or, you might not be hitting the extractor rod hard enough. On a combat reload, you smack the bejesus out of it with your shooting hand as your off hand holds the guns with the cylinder open in the frame. (Think "right-handed shooter" here).

Finally, that hole could need some polishing. Felt pad with some jeweler's rouge will take care of that. If this stuff is a bit past where you are, then go see a gunsmith. Solutions to this are NOT expensive, and well worth the effort to make a nice little .38 worth keeping.

Hope this helps. Take the time. The Mod 36 is worth hanging on to. You have a very handy little revolver, there.

Noticed the "blowback you mentioned. May or may not be the problem. I'll see if my "super cleaning" worked.

I can't figure out why the spent cartridge case will come partially out of the chamber.

Like I mentioned earlier. I have not fired the gun for about twenty years. I periodically wiped it down and ran a pad with a bit of oil through the barrel and cylinder chambers.

When I got the gun out today, I checked it over it and it looked OK.

My first five shots were reloads....158 grain semiwadcutters to factory ammo specs. Nothing hot. The cylinder bound on the third shot. I managed to open the cylinder without too much effort. When I tried to extract the cartridges, I noted that one would not budge....at all. I was sort of looking for a split case. When I finally got this spent cartridge out I noted that the case was not split but instead it was noticeably scratched on one side. I brushed out the chambers and switched to new factory ammo. I still had the extraction problem but no scratches that I could find. With the new factory ammo the case in this chamber will not partially extract.

Again, unfired cartridges slip in and out with ease in all chambers

Guess I'll see what tomorrow brings. We have no pistolsmiths in my area so it will be a trip to S&W for repairs if needed.

Tom

Sorry you are having problems,
I'm not sure but doesn't that gun have a lifetime warranty? Could be blowback,but you mentioned a scratch on the case in one cylinder. I use a steel tornado brush after soaking the charge holes with solvent and run the brush in and out. Go around the cylinder soaking the brush before the next hole then turn the cylinder around and do it from the front side.

Thanks for the suggestions. Not sure about the warranty. I'll pick up a chamber brush and continue working with it a little bit longer. Don't like the hassle of shipping a handgun. It used to be easy. Not any more.

Had similar problem with a .44 mag Ruger Redhawk, but it was split cases ..factory fresh ammo.

Tom

Couldn't get an chamber brush locally. Use a 10mm brush instead. Scrubbed the heck out the sticking chamber as well as the other four chambers while I was at it. "Got-r-done". Thanks again.

Tom

Didn't "git-r-done". The "bad" chamber is still sticking. A spent casing will eject about 1/4" inch. Then it is stuck and requires a wood dowel is to finish extraction. This spent casing will not chamber in the other chambers. However, spent casings from other chambers will chamber in all chambers. Now what????? I haven't shot any "hot loads" in this gun. Any idea of the cost of a new cylinder and will the factory smiths be able to match the blue? This little gun is "family".

Tom