I bought a holster for my 442, and saw a pretty nice .22. No one at the store knows too much about it except that is has a tag that the store put on that says 22/32. It does look like a model 22, but when I look at the yoke there is no model number (i.e. 442-2). There are just some numbers there that say 2486 2. The serial number is 246XX. I know the newer guns are alphabetical, but this just had a number serial number. Anyone have any idea what model this is? Someone at the store said it might be a kit gun, but don't know.

The gun looks really good. A few small scratches on the barrel, but other then that the gun doesn't look used at all. Maybe fired a few times, but that is it. It has wooden S&W grips, and the cylinder release looks like it was changed since it looks pretty big. The store has no box or papers on it, and is selling it for $400.

Does anyone know how old, and what model this gun is? Is it worth $400 in very good to excellent condition?

I might be in the wrong forum since I suspect this .22 might be before 1980, but don't know. I never bought a used gun before, but this does look like a nice piece (except for that cylinder release).

Thank you all.

With no model number the gun was made prior to 1957. Since the store called it a .22/32 it could be a Model of 1953 .22/32 kit gun that later became the Model 34. If it is a 53 Kit Gun, run don't walk back to that store and buy it, 400 is a good price and you will fall in love with it. If you can get them down to 350 or less consider it theft. The one pictured is a 4 digit serial number made in 1954, a rough guess on DOB of the one you saw with a 24000 serial # would be 1955 or 56.

__________________
Regards,
Guy-Harold Smith II

That is the exact gun, thank you. I just called the store, and they will hold it for me to pick it up tomorrow. Too bad it doesn't have any papers or a box it came in, but I will take your word for it. Someone said it was a J frame, and the gun holds six rounds.

The gun is owned by the store, and not on consignment so I should be able to get the price down a bit. I do have to pay $25 for the background check (even with CCW in NV, got to pay that). Might want to look into another gun as well. Might as well get the group rate!

A 1953 Kit gun is an improved I frame and not a J frame. Though it can use J frame grips the cylinder on the I frame was too short for .38 specials. The frame and cylinder were lengthened for .38s and the I became the J. The flat latch was very common on the older I and J frame guns with 2-3 slightly different styles of them during their run. I find the Kit Gun the perfect training tool for new shooters especially ones with smaller hands. They are also very nice for having on a day hike or just for plinking.

Make sure you check all the numbers on the gun, on the barrel under the ejection rod, under the yoke, on the rear of the cylinder, the butt of the gun, and the underside of the grips, they should all match.

Do a search on completed GB auctions and you will see you can't touch an old kit gun for under $500 and most of them are J frame Model 34s not the I frame 53s. Even rarer than the 53s are the pre war Kit Guns, they are highly sought after and are well over $1500 for a beater.

__________________
Regards,
Guy-Harold Smith II

Thanks for the information. I do recall seeing the serial number on the cylinder, yoke, and beneath the grips all match. I will double check tomorrow morning. Anything else I should check?

I am not that familiar with the old guns otherwise I would have snapped that model up. The staff member, myself, and the other customer thought someone put an aftermarket latch on, but that didn't seem right since the gun doesn't look like it was fired that much.

With the price of .38 special ammo pretty high, I think the .22 will be a great range gun.

Thank you very much.

Just your basic revolver checkout stuff for a 50+ year old gun.

Check the rear of the cylinder for errant firing pin strikes between the chambers, if you see dents where the firing has struck the cylinder and not the cartridge then the gun may have timing issues. Sometimes those can just be from rapid dry firing.

Check lockup, end shake, and such.

Check the screws make sure they are not buggered up.

Make sure it's not a refinish, and has crisp nomenclature and the screw holes are not dished.

The action may be stiff from 50 years worth of dried up gunk but it should not be gritty, your just going to have to make that call.

Just all the basic stuff.

__________________
Regards,
Guy-Harold Smith II

Thanks. I have never seen an old gun like this before as I have only bought two new guns. I can't dry fire the gun since I recall that S&W says not to do so (at least for their newer models).

I will double check everything, but the cylinder barely looks used. However, when I look at the part of the gun where the cylinder comes into contact when closed it appears scuffed up a bit like my 442. That is the only way we can tell that the gun was actually fired since the rest of the gun does look really clean.

If there is a problem with the revolver, will Smith still work on it? I know the newer guns have a good warranty, and their customer service is usually pretty good, but how are they with an old gun?

Thank you for all the great information. Once I figure out how to post a picture, I will do so assuming the gun checks out tomorrow.

I did a google search on the model 53 kit gun, and it looks like it fires a .22 Jet (don't know what that is). From what I recall the barrel said .22LR. Would that gun be a model 53 or a blued model 34?

The Model 53 is not a Kit Gun, it is a larger K Frame generally a 6" barrel sometimes an 8" that has 2 cylinders one for .22 Jet and one for .22lr. They also have a selector on the hammer to change the firing pin from center fire to rimfire. They never really caught on due to extraction problems with the bottleneck cases of the .22 Jet. If you search the forum you will find a lot of our members have Model 53s. And they go into detail about the greatness of them and the quirks.



The Model of 1953 .22/32 Kit gun is small framed .22lr that later became the Model 34. Generally with a 4" barrel and sometimes with a 2" tube. Also if you search the forum for kit guns and you will find a plethora of information on them.

__________________
Regards,
Guy-Harold Smith II

So this is a pre-Model 34. It is blued with a 4" barrel. How much should it go for? Biggest issues I have found are some scratches in the barrel.

Yes, Pre 34 is a good descriptor, as for pricing, I have yet to see a pre 34 in good condition for under $600, Model 34s sell for around $500 more for the shorter barrels. I happily paid $425 for my pre 34 about a year ago, I just about sprained my wrist getting to my wallet, no box and the wrong grips, it only has about %70 finish left on it. No dings or dents not abused just well used. What blue it has left is turning into brown patina. I put on a set of J frame diamonds and found a nice tooled holster. So I have $525 in the whole package.

__________________
Regards,
Guy-Harold Smith II

So $400 sounds reasonable for one with some scratches in the barrel, and nothing else I noticed. Then again, if it is pretty low price maybe something else is wrong with it. I have a good relationship with this gun shop, and everyone I know has had good experiences so hopefully there isn't anything really wrong with this gun.

The finish looks pretty good so I don't know if it has been reblued. Don't know if I would be able to tell. Is this an improved I frame or a J frame? I believe you said it was an I frame, but J frame grips will fit on it?

Count the screws on the side plate J frames don't have the 4th screw, the extra one up top near the rear sight.

Here is a good thread on .22/32 Kit Gun features and production changes.
Survey: Mod of 1953 Kit Guns

__________________
Regards,
Guy-Harold Smith II

I saw that post during my search last night. Thank you for all the information.

I picked up the gun today. It looks pretty good. Just a few scratches around the barrel, and a little less blue around one side of the firing end of the barrel.

I also have one other concern. The serial number on the butt is the same as what is on the cylinder, and that which is below the barrel. There is another number that looks like a serial number (246NN) on the yoke as well as the location where the model number usually goes. I thought that was just a part number, but not too sure. Is that just the part number or did I spend money on a gun that had some parts switched with another model? My money is on the part number, but then again I am probably just trying to be optimistic.

Thanks for all the great help. I think I am going to enjoy this gun.

As long as the serial numbers on the butt, cylinder, and barrel flat match, you are good to go. It may also be stamped inside one of the grip panels if the grips are original. The other numbers you mentioned are just assembly numbers. Sounds like you made a really good deal on a fine gun, enjoy it.

Those serial numbers do match so everything looks good. Thanks for the information. This gun looks better and better each time I look at it. I am really glad I picked it up.

I warned you about falling in love with these fine little revolvers, Welcome to the club. Now all you have to do is accessorize it with vintage gear. I eagerly await your photo thread.

__________________
Regards,
Guy-Harold Smith II

Don't know about adding vintage gear. According to the store where I have bought this revolver, the former owner has been selling his collection over the past few months. According to the staff, he keeps all his revolvers in excellent condition. This person only owned revolvers. I might have to stop by in each week to see if there is anything I like. I can see that this is going to cost me a lot of money.

Posted the pics in another forum, but will post a link here.