New user here

I am looking at a S&W 17-6 4 incher in Blue. I want to shoot a lot and not break the bank. My dealer wants 589.00. I looked at it and its in very good condition maybe a 9. I forgot if it was a full lug or not. I am NEW to S&W and I am learning the models.
What do you think? 589.99 or talk him down.

Thanks for your input
PS--I have always been partial to Stainless but Blue is ok.

Are there other S&W 22's worth taking a look-see instead of the 17-6 or is the 17-6 a classic and must have?

Stashu

That price is within line of current market value,imo. However,I wouldn't exactly call a 17-6 a classic.
f.t.

p.s. Welcome to the forum.
p.p.s. ALWAYS try to talk 'em down!

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Thanks for the reply.
What would you consider in S&W 22lr a classic?
Model 18?

Thanks!!

Stash

The classic S&W .22LR would be the K-22 Masterpiece (6 inch barrel) or the K-22 Combat Masterpiece (4 inch barrel). When S&W started assigning model numbers in 1957, the K22 Masterpiece became the Model 17, and the K22 Combat Masterpiece became the Model 18. You can't go wrong with either of these. This K-22 from 1948 is a good example.

Attached Images

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He is correct but if you just want a pinned barrel with recessed chambers they ended with the 17-4 and the 18-3. All the S&W 22LR have recessed chambers but the pinned barrel was dropped in 1982.

The full under lugged barrel started with the 17-6 but a small number were reported shipping with not having the full barrel under lug so the one you looked at is probbably a full under lugged model.

The pricing on S&W 22's has been fairly hot for the past couple of years because of ammo availability and cost. If you hold the 17-6 with full under lug and you like the balance then buy it as the others will cost the same or more. If the 17-6 doesn't have the full barrel under lug buy it for that price because it's a rare bird.

All that said I have a K22 with 6 inch barrel, (2) Model 18's with 4 inch barrels, a Model 17-4 with 8 3/8 barrel and a 617 no dash in 6 inch barrel. To me all the non under lugged models balance better even the 8 3/8 S&W Model 17-4. But thats just me and what you like in in balance may be different and you should buy what you like.

Ok--Thanks to all.

IF there is a must-have current S&W in production 22lr in Stainless which??

I mean everyone has to have a 22 revolver to complete their collection don't they?...My dealer just quoted me 729.00 on a 22lr masterpiece in SS. 4 incher

Thanks!!

Stashu

IMO, you really can't go wrong with any S&W in 22 caliber, they may not be considered "classics" by some but they are all superb shooters.

Personally, the only version I would avoid is a model 617 with an aluminum cylinder, there were some issues with that particular version having "sticky" chambers. Fortunately it's an isolated dash number and the current 617 has gone back to steel cylinders.

Model numbers of recent vintage common models, note I'm not an expert and there is a larger array of models that could feature the 22LR chambering with an accessory cylinder, so I'll miss a few models that aren't common.

Model 18. Once known as the K-22 Combat Masterpiece it features a 4 inch barrel on the K frame in blued steel and perhaps nickel in some rare cases. Basically, it can be viewed as a training gun for the classic 4 inch service revolver with adjustable sights.

Model 17. Once known as the K-22 Target Masterpiece today it features a 6 inch barrel in a semi lugged profile. However, it's also been produced with full lugged barrels and with longer barrels such as an 8 3/8 inch barrel. Also typically blued steel but it's likely it's also come out in nickel at times, the model 17 has had more variations than any other S&W 22LR revolver.

Model 617. The stainless steel version of the K-22 Masterpiece. Avalaible in 4 and 6 inch barrels currently but in the past also available in an 8 3/8 inch barrel. Normally the barrel is fully lugged, however there have been special runs with semi lugged barrels. The 617 has also been produced in 6 and 10 shot versions. The original 617 no dash and the 617-1 were 6 shooters. The 617-2 introduced the 10 shot cylinder in aluminum alloy and was only produced for 2 years, in 1998 the 617-3 went back to stainless steel cylinders, as is the case with all subsequent versions. BTW, the 6 shooters stayed in production later than I realized, apparently they were made alongside the 10 shooters up to 2003.

One item that is of note concerning the 617 is that in 1993 S&W started drilling the top strap on all the medium and large frame revolvers to permit the use of a mounting rail for a scope or red dot sight. An easy way to spot this provision is to open the cylinder and look for 3 holes in the underside of the top strap. If you ever want to add Optics, having this feature present will save the cost of having a gunsmith tap the frame.

Model 63. This is a stainless steel J frame in stainless steel that currently is an 8 shooter but was previously a 6 shooter. Originally offered with a 2 inch barrel but it's also been offered with 4 inch barrels, an isolated 5 inch barrel, and currently a 3 inch barrel with, I believe, a fibre optic front sight.

Model 317. An aluminum framed J frame in 22LR currently in production. As with the alloy cylinder in the 617, there have been reports of difficulties with extraction on some of the 317. However, if you want a featherwieght 22LR revolver it's the gun to have.

Models 34, 35, and 43. Earlier blued steel versions of the J frame in 22LR and IMO rather rare, if you see any of these for sale used at a good price buy it immediately.

With any of these revolvers triggers and hammers are all over the map, they can be found with service triggers and hammers alongside guns with either serated target or smooth target triggers and target hammers. Some due to special orders and some due to owners modifying guns to fit their tastes. I suspect that the 22LR revolvers are the most heavily modified guns out there, because they got used so frequently it's to be expected that the owner would add features he preferred.

On an older used gun the only owner modification to be wary of is a lightened trigger pull in Single Action. This is best tested for by suffing an eraser in the frame recess and pulling the trigger with the gun cocked, you do NOT dry fire a 22. If the trigger feels way light in single action, it's going to need addressing by a gunsmith because at some point it could lead to "Pushoff". BTW, DO NOT EVER try to push off the hammer on a gun you do not own, applying too much pressure to the hammer in a gun with a SA trigger tuned for a light SA pull can permanently damage the hammer and replacement hammers aren't that easy to find. If the SA trigger feels way light and "Pushoff" hasn't developed it's about a 15 minute task for a gunsmith to sharpen the SA sear on the trigger to make the trigger pull correct. BTW, I have a 617 with this condition and one day soon plan to correct it, currently the trigger break at 2 lbs, 4 ounces with a 14 lbs rebound spring and it was under 2 lbs. with a 12 lbs rebound spring, much too light to be considered safe for a new shooter. Personally, I find a 3 lbs. SA trigger to be perfect, which can be easily achieved by installing a 14 lbs. rebound spring. BTW, with the factory rebound spring the SA pull should be 4 - 4.5 lbs.

Now about the 22LR and ammunition. Keep in mind that most of the ammunition on the market has been designed for use in a RIFLE. This means that it will be much dirtier shooting in a revolver than you would expect. This can cause problems with fouling in the cylinder and the symptom of this is difficulty inserting and seating fresh rounds in the cylinder. When this happens you will start to see problems with misfires. What happens is that you didn't get that misfire fully seated in the chamber and all the hammer did on the first strike was shift the cartrige forward, in almost every case it'll fire on the second strike. The solution is to clean the chambers in the cylinder, just a few stroke with a dry bore brush is usually enough to allow you to resume shooting. Another solution is to find an ammunition that is cleaner shooting, personally I've found the copper washed Federal 550 round bulk packs are clean enough to allow well over 100 rounds downrange without any issues from fouling. However, some ammo's can cause fouling issues in as few as 50 rounds downrange. Unfortunately for me, the really dirty ammo seems to produce the best accuracy, so I have to decide if I want superb accuracy or an easy time cleaning before going shooting.

Finally, in regards to cost. Keep in mind that the ammo can cost as little as 3 cents per round. That low ammo cost has driven the demand and the prices fore these guns way up. The good news is that at only 3 or 4 cents a round it only takes a few thousand rounds of ammo to save you the price of the gun. Currently, the best price I've found for 38 spl. range ammo is 35 cents per round, so that means a difference of a bit more than 300 bucks for every 1000 rounds fired.

A four inch full lug Model 17 is one of the more difficult models to find.
Yes,everyone needs a K frame .22 in their collection....some of us need more than one. ;-P

Here's my 17-6 which needed at lot of work for $460. So your dealer may not far off with his price. The combat grips are going for more than $200.

If you like the 17-6, by all means purchase it! The asking price is in-line since S&W .22's are hot as a branding iron now. As for the heavy barrel- I have the queen mother of heavy .22's-the 617 with full lug 8 3/8ths inch barrel and love it as a range gun. Even my wife likes to shoot it. The front heavy balance allows the gun to "hang" quite steady. I also own an 8 3/8ths 17-4 with the normal barrel profile and love it too.

You can't have too many S&W .22's!!

By the way- the least favorite S&W in my safe is my model 63-4. The eight shot cylinder is a huge pain in the buttocks to clean!

Thanks to all for your replies.

I have decided to go with a 617 Masterpiece in SS 10shot with 4 inch barrel, my dealer wants 729.00. I hope my dealer still can get it?????? he had a hard time finding one. I have entertained a 6 inch but not sure? My uses--target. max of 50yds, mostly 25yds.

Does anybody have a suggestion for a holster? It is just for carry to the range nothing special. Lefty hand.

Thanks!!

I do worry about cleaning the 10 shot cyl. maybe I'll clean it with Mil-tec or Steel Shield before for easier cleaning.


So--for the price "NEW" a S&W 617 K-22 Masterpiece 10 shot in SS
for 729.00--OK??????????--maybe a shy high but my dealer accepts trades--
Thanks

Stash

Davidson's (Gun Genie) list is $829 and they show zero stock for the 4 inch. Hopefully your dealer still has that one for $729.

The largest stocking S&W dealer in west-central PA, Grice, had a 4 inch 10 shot 617 new for $789 when I was there two weeks ago. Also had a shot much, cared for little scoped 10 shot 6 incher in the used case for $529. Glad I bought my 617 back in 1991 for the huge sum of $279 brand new. Things have changed.

Question--here I am already changing the grips :-)

Anyway I like wood----Any K & L Frame Grips will fit the 617???
Square butt?

Thanks!!

Stashu

mallet

Don't get me wrong, I love them dearly but they are not in my experience reliable trail packing guns if you shoot and don't carry cleaning equipment and a rubber mallet with you.

I'm not sure if I'll ever buy another 22 handgun.

Automatic 22's are trouble waiting to happen. If you can afford postage back and forth to the manufacture go ahead. Most will tell you when you buy one, get every brand of 22's off the shelf to test before buying a quantity of any given brand of ammo. That goes for revolvers as well, no matter the make or cost of the weapon.

Buy a nice 22 carbine

Sorry,

I'll try again.

I've owned many K22's throughout my many years and I sold the last one a few days ago. I'll not have another unfortunately.

All had the same problem of difficulty in extracting empties after shooting 30 or more rounds. S&W advised me on one I sent back that it was due to powder flakes and residue getting beneath the ejector 'star' and due to tight tolerances freezing up the ejection process. I had to always have a rubber mallet and cleaning kit with me when I went out shooting. The high velocity ammo off the shelf seemed to be the worse.

Don't get me wrong, I love them dearly but they are not in my experience reliable trail packing guns if you shoot and don't carry cleaning equipment and a rubber mallet with you.

I'm not sure if I'll ever buy another 22 handgun. I believe Ruger MKIII Hunters are the worse as I experienced recently out of the box.

Automatic 22's are trouble waiting to happen. If you can afford postage back and forth to the manufacture go ahead. Most will tell you when you buy one, get every brand of 22's off the shelf to test before buying a quantity of any given brand of ammo. That goes for revolvers as well, no matter the make or cost of the weapon. I know many shooters who ended up with cases of ammo and a gun that wouldn't shoot them.

Buy a nice 22 carbine

I have recently acquired a Stainless model 17-6 ...22 wth 6" bbl and grooved combat grips, however the right side of the frame has an engraved scene of an old "goldminer"?? holding a revolver with a horse in the background--under the cylinder are the engraved numbers 208 of 500, and on the right side of the barrel engraved in caps "THE REVOLVER".

Assume this is a commorative series of some kind but have not been able to locate any info or value

It was a part of the "Ellett Brother's 12 Revolver Set". Here is a forum post: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...WebPoYAQRHTf-w

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Forget the 'classic'.
It's hard to go wrong with any Smith 22.
Get one you like and can afford, take it and shoot it!

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If you decide against it I'd appreciate you passing on the info. It's at the top of my want list. I have been wanting one very badly.

05-04-2011, 05:30 PM

Hey, Jim dug it up (Go get that gun). That "search" button is the "S&W Swami." For the thread drift; #355 of 500, .22X2. Joe

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