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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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Old 06-01-2011, 12:04 AM
Bud11 Bud11 is offline
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Cleaning my new 67. Cleaning my new 67. Cleaning my new 67. Cleaning my new 67. Cleaning my new 67.  
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Default Cleaning my new 67.

Got it last week and shot it on Sunday. Went to clean it after only 100 rounds and no real problems. I am wondering if I did the front of the cylinder right though. While the rest was pretty easy, this part was tough. I used some solvent and a wire type gun brush. Am I missing something, or is that typically the tough area and I just need more time and elbow grease there? Thoughts? Tips? Bud
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Old 06-01-2011, 02:11 AM
shooter7 shooter7 is offline
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Cleaning my new 67.  
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Since it's a stainless gun, you can use the lead removing cloths available at gun stores. I use the stuff in the bore, before using solvent also. You shouldn't need a wire brush if you use these cloths. You can put the cloth under the brush, and get into the nooks and crannies, but you don't need to. Yes, it takes some effort to get the stuff off.
For me, I've given up on cleaning off the burn marks, lead, on the front of the cylinder each time. I just get the most off. If I were to sell the gun, then I might consider a more thorough cleaning.
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Old 06-01-2011, 04:40 AM
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murphydog murphydog is offline
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Cleaning my new 67. Cleaning my new 67. Cleaning my new 67. Cleaning my new 67. Cleaning my new 67.  
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As shooter7 recommended, the lead remover cloth works fine on the cylinder face of a stainless gun. For this purpose, I cut a small piece of the cloth (about a square inch) because it doesn't look reusable after the cleaning is done. Also, try putting Break Free or another cleaner on the cylinder first and let it sit for a minute or two before using the cloth, it makes the crud come off easier.
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Old 06-01-2011, 09:35 AM
flycaster flycaster is offline
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I don't see any reason to clean that area. Too much work for little or no gain. Doesn't hurt the gun, or impair its function. I clean the rest of my 67, but leave the front of the cylinder alone. Just my opinion, of course!

Chuck
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Old 06-01-2011, 10:09 AM
Broker50 Broker50 is offline
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On stainless cylinders, I use a small (1" square) piece of red Scotchbrite pad wet with solvent. Brings it off in a jiffy. I agree, the powder burns do no harm, but it looks better without them. I shoot my 67 more than most of mine, it doesn't get cleaned very often beyond wiping it down with a paper towel after shooting, surprising how clean just a paper towell will get it. I like wheelguns, but I don't like to clean 'em, autos are much easier to clean!
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Old 06-01-2011, 11:15 AM
Joe in SC Joe in SC is offline
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Cleaning my new 67. Cleaning my new 67.  
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Get a tube of Iosso bore cleaner, smear a dab on a 1 or 11/2 inch cloth patch and work each chamber face with a finger tip. Iosso works very fast, you'll love it. It is great in the bore also. A wire brush should be replaced with an old toothbrush. The toothbrush in conjunction with a good bore solvent like Hoppe's will sufficently clean inside the cylinder window cutout in the frame, around and under the forcing cone and anywhere else you want to use it. I keep all our old toothbrushes for gun cleaning. The only place I ever use wire is in the barrel bore.

I have found Iosso to be effective in the chambers after shooting 38 spec. in 357 mags, 44 spec. in 44 mags.. JB bore cleaner works well in conjunction with a nylon chamber brush also.

Hope this helps.

Tip: I use the Iosso smeared between the narrow opening between the top strap and barrel stub. Then I take a length of the heavier dental floss and work the area over. This is useful for detailed cleaning.
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