I read that the 586 has an adjustable trigger. Does anyone know how to adjust the trigger? It seems very light in single action mode.

Thanks.

Glad you asked here.

What you read was... not true.

No adjustability, at least not like a rifle trigger group.

You can get an action job which makes the DA much lighter and the SA more crisp, but it takes spring changes or the knowledge of just how much to hone and more importantly, where to hone.

Count on others jumping in with further info.

Possibly referring to the adjustable trigger "stop" ?

I knew it was too good to be true. No problem with DA so I will either shoot it DA or get used to the way it feels with SA. The action job will have to wait a while.

Thanks.

What is that? Maybe I did get it mixed up. Wouldn't be the first time.

It's my understanding that the 6" 586 came standard with the adjustable trigger stop. What I do is adjust mine all the way forward and see that the hammer drops every time. If it does, I leave it there. I have only found one where max adjustment would not let the hammer fall. A little filing can take care of that. I have read on this forum that many police departments disabled the stop because of fear they would come loose and prevent the gun from firing. If it fires with max adjustment there should be no fear, even if it does come loose. There are probably millions of 1911s that have adjustable trigger stops installed. I happen to like it when the triggers rearward travel stops as soon as the hammer falls. It's all about fast follow up shots, IMHO, but how long does it take the trigger to go forward an extra 1/8"? I guess it comes down to personal preference.

I owned a 6" 586 no dash back in 1983 and I can tell you that it did not have a trigger stop.

Perhaps things changed after the introduction of the IL/MIM.

I think you are talking about the 19-4 and older models.

It shouldn't be that much to learn how to pop the side plate, clean, and lube the internals. That made some of my guns better with just that. A dab of moly grease to rotating parts (not the hammer and sear where they touch) and some light oil where parts slide together. My 629 feels like a PC gun now. And yes I have pulled the trigger on a PC gun to know the difference.

In addition to the adjustable trigger stop that used to be on many S&W revolvers, I have seen posts from uneducated shooters that refer to the main spring strain screw as a trigger adjustment. It is not.

Perhaps that is what the post that you read was referring to.

I was referring to a statement in the SCSW on the 586 6", "... with the 6" version having an adjustable trigger stop." Perhaps I should not have said came standard with but it seems that is what they were inferring. Maybe they should have said could be ordered with. Then again there are a few mistakes in that book. My 586 6" no-, with stocks dated 30 Jan 1986, does have the stop.

To answer the original question, there are several posts on this forum describing how to make the adjustment.

>Perhaps I should not have said came standard with but it seems that is what they were inferring.

Perhaps they were implying -- but it was you who was inferring.

__________________
Pisgah

Trigger stops were unreliable. Sometimes they would get loose, not allowing the trigger to go back far enough to allow the trigger to fully cycle the action. They were removed from LE guns for that reason. I had a K22 and K38 that both had them, worked fine if you took the sideplate off and made sure they stayed tight. More of a target shooting thing. Wouldn't want one on an SD gun.

Like I said before, if the stop is adjusted all the way forward, or if it came loose and went all the way forward, and the trigger trips the hammer, where is the problem? It only becomes a problem when the stop can prevent the trigger from doing its job. There are other things in a revolver that can come loose and render the gun inoperable. I would not worry about a properly designed and manufactured trigger stop for self defense. If you are worried about a gun that has a trigger stop installed, do as I suggested and adjust it all the way forward and see what happens. If the hammer fails to drop, file it down or remove it. If the hammer goes forward every time then there is no problem, loose or not.