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Old 07-26-2011, 09:59 PM
Mphstiger1981 Mphstiger1981 is offline
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Default Thoughts on How to Properly Grip a Snub Nose Revolver

I saw something mentioned about proper grip of the snubby in another thread that caught my attention. I learned to shoot handguns on a full size .357 revolver. My first gun many years ago was a Model 28 with 6" barrel, and during my training to become a deputy, they taught the cup and saucer.

Fast forward to today, and most of my experience has been carrying the bottom feeders. I was talking to someone in a local gun shop who mentioned he places his strong hand high up on the backstrap of his J frame. I tried this at the range and thought this guy must have lost his marbles, I felt like I'd just slammed the car door on my hand. It was bruised for almost a week after trying to shoot like this.

All of this to say, is there a preferred, suggested or proper method to hold the J frame revolver which gives you control of the weapon, the ability to shoot accurately and yet not feel like you're setting off M-80s in your hand?

Thanks in advance for sharing your tips and insights.
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Old 07-26-2011, 10:06 PM
Dragon88 Dragon88 is offline
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The cup and saucer is pretty outdated... Personally I shoot J frames with my strong (right) hand as high up on the backstrap as possible, right thumb curled down to keep it away from the cylinder release. Support (left) hand curls around the fingers of the strong hand with the left index finger in positive contact with the bottom of the trigger guard. Left thumb is kind of dangling off in space, I call that my aiming thumb.
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Old 07-26-2011, 10:10 PM
Mphstiger1981 Mphstiger1981 is offline
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Default One other question...

Meant to also ask what about the tightness of the grip? Holding a small bird in your hands, death grip or something in between?
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Old 07-26-2011, 10:23 PM
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I am sure not any kind of expert but with my 340 as high as possible works well even with magnum loads. It recoils more backwards than flipping the barrel upwards. Now I really do not enjoy the magnum loads is this light gun so I don't shoot very many at a time. I use a very tight grip. I think that Dragon88 spells out the details well.
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Old 07-26-2011, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Mphstiger1981 View Post
Meant to also ask what about the tightness of the grip? Holding a small bird in your hands, death grip or something in between?
I like a tight grip, especially if I'm trying to shoot fast(er). I can't tell you how many times the knuckle on my right thumb has been whacked by a revolver's cylinder release, mostly due to relaxing my grip too much. Try gripping so tight that you feel like you are trying too hard and your hand might start shaking, then back off a bit until it is comfortable enough to maintain.
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Old 07-26-2011, 11:16 PM
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There was a Jerry Miculek video series which include his technique for two hand hold for snubbies where the offhand thumb crosses over the backstrap at or on the knuckle. I couldn't find the video. Maybe there's link to be found.
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Old 07-26-2011, 11:22 PM
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The type of grip on the gun is more important that the way you grip the gun. A good three finger, rubber grip will go a long way toward helping you shoot a J frame better.
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Old 07-27-2011, 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Photoman44 View Post
...A good three finger, rubber grip will go a long way toward helping you shoot a J frame better.
I'm not sure what you mean about three finger. I presume you're not counting the trigger finger in the "three finger" grip you recommend.

I have both a 642 with the Uncle Mike's boot grips that have two finger grooves



and a Bodyguard 38 with a similar size grip.



I use my middle and ring fingers on the grip. I try to keep the web of my thumb and trigger finger high, on or near the knuckle. My thumb is cocked downward. I close my pinky and keep it under the butt like a little platform to resist the torquing of muzzle flip. So, three fingers and a thumb.

Grips large enough to have three finger grooves would seem to me to be too big and possibly contrary to some kinds of concealed carry. Maybe I misunderstood.
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Old 07-27-2011, 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Dragon88 View Post
Personally I shoot J frames with my strong (right) hand as high up on the backstrap as possible, right thumb curled down to keep it away from the cylinder release. Support (left) hand curls around the fingers of the strong hand with the left index finger in positive contact with the bottom of the trigger guard. Left thumb is kind of dangling off in space, I call that my aiming thumb.
This is very similar to how I grip my 642. I don't grip all the way up, though; I tend to leave about 1/8" of the backstrap exposed above the web of my shooting hand. I also lock my left hand thumb down so that the pad of the thumb presses down on the joint of my right thumb. I basically create a "circle" of pressure around the gun.

I also make sure the barrel is lined up with my forearm. Not only does it help direct recoil forces straight back into the arm for improved control it helps align the gun when point shooting with one hand at close range.

I tend to use a near death grip on my gun when shooting. One thing I do is apply pressure front-to-back with my shooting hand and side-to-side with my support hand. I use an equal amount of pressure with both hands. I find this makes the gun fairly stable when shooting quickly at close range. I loosen up a little at longer ranges to help with steadying the sights, but it's still a very firm grip.

As for the stocks, I really like Spegel boot grips. Here they are on my 642.



One feature I like about these is the high "ears" that extend up to the top of the recoil shoulder. It helps distribute the recoil force when using a high grip. The other thing I like about them is a palm swell that fills the hand without being too bulky. This also helps spread out the recoil force.
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Old 07-27-2011, 01:14 AM
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There was a Jerry Miculek video series which include his technique for two hand hold for snubbies where the offhand thumb crosses over the backstrap at or on the knuckle. I couldn't find the video. Maybe there's link to be found.
I've seen the technique. As great a shooter as Jerry Miculek is I cannot agree with using this method. If the only handgun you shoot or will ever shoot is a Centennial snub, then it might be OK. However, the left thumb could get in the way of the hammer spur on some revolvers. At best this would be annoying and at worst it could prevent the hammer from moving as far back as it needs to in order to fire. This is beside the fact that if you ever shoot a semi-auto you risk injury to your left thumb from the slide cycling.
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Old 07-27-2011, 01:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Photoman44 View Post
The type of grip on the gun is more important that the way you grip the gun. A good three finger, rubber grip will go a long way toward helping you shoot a J frame better.
A larger, more hand-filling grip will probably improve your shooting, but depending on your method of concealment it can make it more difficult to hide your gun. If you carry your gun you should give this some consideration.
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Old 07-27-2011, 09:19 AM
David Sinko David Sinko is offline
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I shoot my J Frames the exact opposite way I shoot my larger frame revolvers. I start with the Uncle Mike's boot grip. This boot grip has an open backstrap and fits flush with the bottom of the grip frame, which is more important for concealment. The checkered rubber makes for a better gripping surface on such a small grip frame. I grab the grip frame as low as possible and curl my pinky around the bottom. I use a very tight death grip, with the thumb of the shooting hand curled down as tightly as possible. This prevents the thumb from being battered by the cylinder latch, which incidentally is beveled. Support hand is used the same way as when shooting the large frame guns.

I have learned that the J Frame comes back hard in recoil but a light 2" barrel will have very little muzzle flip. If you hold on tight, the gun will not want to twist out of your hands. Most important is preventing your thumb from getting battered. You will never shoot the gun well if it makes you bleed.

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Old 07-27-2011, 11:22 AM
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I've seen the technique. As great a shooter as Jerry Miculek is I cannot agree with using this method. If the only handgun you shoot or will ever shoot is a Centennial snub, then it might be OK. However, the left thumb could get in the way of the hammer spur on some revolvers. At best this would be annoying and at worst it could prevent the hammer from moving as far back as it needs to in order to fire. This is beside the fact that if you ever shoot a semi-auto you risk injury to your left thumb from the slide cycling.
The Miculek videos used to be on Smith & Wesson's site. Then they were on the link below, but are no longer there.
Video Not Found

There are still shots from the video on the below link, including one of Jerry's snubby grip.
MICULEK2
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Old 07-27-2011, 11:30 AM
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Miculek's J frame grip makes more sense to me after seeing the picture on that site. I'm sure it's a great grip for consistency and speed in competition, or when performing trick shooting. But it would never work for me in my practice and potential self-defense shooting. My hands naturally go to a thumbs-in-line grip when I pick up a two-handed hold on a handgun, even with revolvers my grip is basically a modification of that. Curling my left thumb over the back like that would feel completely unnatural and I wouldn't do it in practice or "for real".
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Old 07-27-2011, 11:51 AM
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I think Jerry does that b/c of the size of his fingers. He can't curl them down (thumb pad over thumb pad) and still be able to engage the trigger. He won't stick them straight forward b/c of the cylinder gap blast.
I guess I'm lucky in that I have skinny fingers. I shoot thumb bent and locked down with weak thumb bent and locked over it. This grip works with all my handguns so it makes practice and competition much easier.
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Old 07-27-2011, 01:04 PM
Mphstiger1981 Mphstiger1981 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon88 View Post
Miculek's J frame grip makes more sense to me after seeing the picture on that site. I'm sure it's a great grip for consistency and speed in competition, or when performing trick shooting. But it would never work for me in my practice and potential self-defense shooting. My hands naturally go to a thumbs-in-line grip when I pick up a two-handed hold on a handgun, even with revolvers my grip is basically a modification of that. Curling my left thumb over the back like that would feel completely unnatural and I wouldn't do it in practice or "for real".
+1. I agree totally.
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Old 07-27-2011, 01:20 PM
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I'm not sure what you mean about three finger. I presume you're not counting the trigger finger in the "three finger" grip you recommend.

I have both a 642 with the Uncle Mike's boot grips that have two finger grooves



You picture is the classic two finger grip (a copy of Craig Spegel's boot grip). See the pic below for the three finger version.

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Old 07-27-2011, 01:22 PM
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Grips large enough to have three finger grooves would seem to me to be too big and possibly contrary to some kinds of concealed carry. Maybe I misunderstood.

True enough. It depends on how you carry. I carry a 642 with the three finger grips every day in my pocket (cargo shorts during the summer and standard blue jeans or cargo pants in the winter).
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Old 07-27-2011, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5Wire View Post
There was a Jerry Miculek video series which include his technique for two hand hold for snubbies where the offhand thumb crosses over the backstrap at or on the knuckle. I couldn't find the video. Maybe there's link to be found.
I've seen this grip in a couple of older books also and thought it was a good idea, especially with a "hammerless" 442 or 642. When one of the range instructors at my place of shooting enjoyment saw it, he asked if I ever shot any other gun. When I told him I had a regular SA/DA revolver and a couple automatics, he told me to go back to the standard grip where my thumb won't get bitten off by the slide on an automatic. He also said 60% of your grip strength should come from the left (weak) hand.
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Old 07-27-2011, 02:09 PM
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Similar to several methods mentioned already, here's one from the Box O' Truth website.
Educational Zone #12 - Teaching a Lady to Shoot - Page 1
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Old 07-27-2011, 02:21 PM
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Here's the Miculek method
'

I try to use this grip when shooting my airweight but I really have to make a conscious effort to wrap the thumb over with the snub. 20+ years of shooting my other revolvers without the support thumb wrapped over is a hard thing to break.

I personally give the snub a death grip and let the rest of my arm absorb the recoil....The more it's allowed to "slap" into the web of my hand the more it hurts.
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Old 07-27-2011, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Photoman44 View Post
You picture is the classic two finger grip (a copy of Craig Spegel's boot grip). See the pic below for the three finger version...
Yup, I've seen 'em and I don't care for them, they add too much length for carry in my non-cargo pocket.

I've also tried the Miculek grip using J-Frames with external hammers, not a problem as far as I'm concerned. What I also practice is one hand shooting, so the pinky-platform method helps control the muzzle flip.
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Old 07-27-2011, 04:48 PM
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One thing he said makes sense:
Quote:
Originally Posted by russp1 View Post
When one of the range instructors at my place of shooting enjoyment saw it, he asked if I ever shot any other gun. When I told him I had a regular SA/DA revolver and a couple automatics, he told me to go back to the standard grip where my thumb won't get bitten off by the slide on an automatic.
I think that if you can keep everything as much the same as possible it will be good for you in the long run. If someone carries a J frame the most but shoots the most with a different kind of gun that requires a different grip, then what happens if you ever need to use the J frame? Will you remember?

And this is competition-driven pucky:

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He also said 60% of your grip strength should come from the left (weak) hand.
Really? Is someone going to do that under stress or are they going to grip both hands as hard as possible? If you train to only use 40% of your strong hand strength in your grip, how strong will your grip be if you have to fire one handed?
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Old 07-28-2011, 11:30 AM
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And this is competition-driven pucky:



Really? Is someone going to do that under stress or are they going to grip both hands as hard as possible? If you train to only use 40% of your strong hand strength in your grip, how strong will your grip be if you have to fire one handed?
I'm pretty sure he was just talking about standing at the range shooting at a target for practice or qualification. When I'm actually trying to stay good and accurate firing my 442, I'm usually grabbing with all I got with both hands to control that little puppy!
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Old 07-28-2011, 05:45 PM
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I do not own snubs anymore but I would strongly recommend NOT practicing any grip that puts your 'other' thumb behind the hammer.

I'm a (sometime) instructor and I have spent many long hours teaching people to shoot (mostly rifles, .22 SAs and plastic brass shuckers) and I spend most of THAT time watching to make sure their left or 'free' thumb is to the side - never, ever, behind the slide. Oh, and I actually met a guy once that had lost the end of his thumb from making that mistake.

Edit: This would be more relevant if you switch between gun types. If you're a total wheelgunner - then get with it!
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Old 07-28-2011, 11:02 PM
Mphstiger1981 Mphstiger1981 is offline
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Thumbs up All of your input paid off!

I finally got to the range tonight with my 642 for the first time since my initial post on this subject. Using the recommendations from all the various posters, but especially the contributions from Dragon88 and ContinentalOP, I spent some time working on the placement of my grip. In the roughly 30 minutes or less I was there, I shot 50 rounds of 125 grain reloads.

While I was shooting fast to be sure to finish before the range closed, I was not really shooting for speed. I was working on technique. I found, for me personally, that placing my hand too high up on the backstrap seemed to cause more perceived recoil. Once I lowered the grip a little, and pressed the weak hand thumb over the strong hand thumb, the recoil seemed much less noticeable. I experimented with death grip and finally reduced my tension to somewhere around 7 or 8 on a scale of 1-10, with 1 being a dead fish handshake, and 10 being crushing rocks like saltine crackers.

I have recently replaced the the factory stocks with a set of Hogue Bantam grips. I'm not in love with them but I do think they are a slight improvement. I think my next stocks may be something similar to the three finger stocks in the post from Photoman44.

All in all, my trip to the range tonight was a great success in my humble opinion. I left encouraged that I can shoot the 642 and not have to go home and soak my hand in an ice bucket!

My thanks to all who have contributed to this thread. It has already paid dividends to my enjoyment of my 642. I look forward to getting back out there with it again soon.

Thanks again,

Tiger.
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Old 07-28-2011, 11:14 PM
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Glad to hear your technique is improving. Holding high on the backstrap does transmit more of the recoil into the web of your hand, but that's kind of the point. You have to manage the recoil so that you can control the gun and get back on target. That said, ultimately you need a grip that you are comfortable with. When the pistol comes out of the holster it needs to feel natural in your hand as you line up to take the shot. Shooting DAO is very humbling for me, because I often strive for accuracy at the range using a single action technique. Having confidence in your ability to shoot your carry piece is very important though, and it's good that you are making such an effort to improve.
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Old 07-28-2011, 11:29 PM
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I'm also glad you're seeing improvements. Sometimes it takes a little tweaking to find what works best for you. Keep up the good work!
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Old 07-28-2011, 11:35 PM
Mphstiger1981 Mphstiger1981 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon88 View Post
Glad to hear your technique is improving. Holding high on the backstrap does transmit more of the recoil into the web of your hand, but that's kind of the point. You have to manage the recoil so that you can control the gun and get back on target..
I have to say, if I had shot an entire box of shells with my hand high up on the backstrap, I would not be able to type this right now. Not sure if that means I need to consider turning in my Man Card or not.

I do appreciate the encouragement. I've always been a relatively average shooter and I've gotten many hours of pleasure from the shooting and hunting sports. I know some people view the little J frames as shoot a little-- carry a lot type of guns. I'm just sort of funny about what I carry. I want to carry something I have shot a lot, or at least to be comfortable with and know without a doubt that I have the ability to hit close to what I'm aiming at. This is the fundamental thought that drives me to improve with the 642 right now.
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Old 07-28-2011, 11:43 PM
Dragon88 Dragon88 is offline
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Haha no need to turn in the man card. Most intense recoil I've ever felt in a carry piece was my 3" lightweight 1911 with Winchester Ranger 230gr +P. I fired five rounds for velocity measurement, five rounds to get it out of my system, and I was DONE. One of the few times my hand hurt after firing a gun. Different grips might help you, though usually the bigger and easier to shoot they are, the harder they are to conceal.
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Old 07-29-2011, 08:44 AM
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Regarding the Miculek grip:

I've used it ever since seeing it and it's without question the best technique available for controlling small revolvers and auto pistols. Yes, I said auto pistols as well. There simply isn't much real-estate on these smaller handguns that would allow you to effectively use the standard grip. Further, for a lot of folks a traditional thumbs-forward grip places their weak thumb perilously close to the gap between the cylinder and forcing cone. This can be cured, of course, by installing larger grips but that has a price in terms of concealment and leaves out the two best laser options for the J frame. (I consider a laser to be required equipment for a J frame because of the enormous boost to performance the laser offers in low light)

A key part of the technique is locking the left thumb somewhere under the first joint of the right thumb, using that as a reference point. This allows the use of that grip without worry about getting the left thumb in the way of the slide. If more room is desired you can angle the left thumb all the way down to touching the wrist and still get the same benefit. In the picture on the previous page, Jerry's left thumb is very high...which you can do with a J frame revolver and the enormous grip strength a professional shooter brings to the table. Modifying the thumb placement impacts the effectiveness a bit, but only a little bit in my experience.

The second key is to grip very hard with the left hand...think of your left hand as a hydraulic press with the goal of crushing the grip. This helps resist the torque applied to the trigger (12-15 pound trigger, 1.x pound handgun...the math isn't in your favor) which improves the ability to keep the sights aligned. It also helps manage recoil better than any other technique I've ever tried, seen, or heard of. Obviously the more grip strength you have the more effective the grip is, but I've taught it successfully to even small females. When used in conjunction with other fundamentals of controlling a handgun (chin forward of the belt line, use of the pectorals, etc) it allows even small females with relatively little grip strength to manage guns like the J frame or the LCP effectively. That means they tend to shoot more since they no longer get punished by the recoil...which is always a good thing.

The grip does take a bit of time to learn/teach and does require some practice, but the benefits it offers in terms of control and accuracy are more than worth it. As for using it under stress, just as with any other skill if you train properly you'll probably be able to use it under stress. I have absolutely no problem switching between a standard grip on a semi-automatic pistol I carry every day and the Miculek grip (although I'm sure he didn't invent it) on the 442 I carry as a BUG every day.

When properly understood, properly trained, and properly put into practice it's a very effective technique...vastly moreso than anything else available. For those motivated enough to seek out training or to seek to improve their skill with a weapon like the J frame it's a good option. It would not be a good technique for the poorly motivated who are largely a danger to themselves. In other words, it isn't a technique I would teach to the sort of person who wouldn't be willing to spend an hour or two doing dryfire runs of learning to acquire the grip properly so they don't injure themselves.

Last edited by carrya1911; 07-29-2011 at 08:55 AM.
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  #32  
Old 07-29-2011, 11:50 AM
ol' geeser ol' geeser is offline
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Over the last thirty five or so years, one thing I have learned is that you WILL "fight like you train"...

I have also come to realize that in order to become proficient with a handgun, a certian amount of "zen" will come into play...

I have learned to use basically the same grip on my revolvers as well as the semis...in essence, strong hand web as high on grip as possible and strong thumb down the left side of the weapon. Strong hand is pushed into the weak hand with middle, ring, and pinkie fingers on top of each other. Weak index finger then placed firmly on the front of the trigger guard and weak thumb is routed next to the strong thumb.
Both elbows are flexed to a greater or lesser degree depending on the task at hand. Recoil is absorbed by the flex and transfered into the shoulder and back and the hands will control muzzle flip. Very slight modification allows this to be used with a zeroing rest as well.

I found it to be more than suitable for all my handguns regardless of the range involved out to a hundred yards or so. In my youth, I was fascinated with Keith and his long range shooting exploits. Shooting at paper plates at a hundred yards with my 2inch mdl 34, a mdl 60, and a 2.5 inch 19 has been one of my favorite pastimes. Rainbowing in on cowpatties with a 4in. 25-5 or mdl. 29 at long range is an absolute gas.

Over the years, I have agency qualified as "expert" with the mdl. 34, mdl. 60., mdl. 19, the 25-5, and a couple of 1911's. My agency's quailification involves lots of "running and gunning" and the use of cover and concealment.

This grip works - for me - on any handgun I might pick up.....
for what it's worth.............
A.
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  #33  
Old 07-29-2011, 12:43 PM
cjw3 cjw3 is offline
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Might as well start with a high grip, because that's what you'll have after the first shot.
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  #34  
Old 07-29-2011, 12:50 PM
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Thanks for all the suggestions!

I need to work on grip and find the 'JM' approach interesting.

I have to push forward on the backstrap to offset the recoil. But when I do that with the strong hand - my whole hand tenses up, and I shoot low -left, or just left. I can recreate the problem with random empty cylinders.

The 'JM' method, I think, puts the forward pressure, or at least some of it, on the backstrap with the weak hand. This might allow me not to tense up my strong hand so much.

I'll try it out this weekend.
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Old 07-29-2011, 10:09 PM
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In all honesty, 95% of our J frame practice should be with ONE hand. It's highly likely that's how you'll end up shooting it when the time comes. Up close, personal, one hand and no sights.
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  #36  
Old 12-02-2012, 08:59 PM
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Hello all. I'm a newbie with handguns. I have both a 642 for my wife and a 442 for myself. I've got very large hands and the only way I can comfortably hold either revolver is with the web of my hand 3/4" below the top of the backstop. I am constantly being corrected by my experienced wife and shooting friends, but when my web is high, my hand is contorted and my trigger finger gets pinched between the trigger and trigger guard when firing. Realistically I should have purchased a larger gun for myself, but the ability to conceal was a high priority for me. I am open to any feedback from this awesome, experienced group. Thanks in advance for any input. Oh, by the way, I still have the stock grips.
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  #37  
Old 12-02-2012, 10:00 PM
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I've got big hands and the first thing I did was to replace the grip with a Pachmayr compact grip. I get a high grip with my right hand, my left hand goes over my right hand with my thumbs crossed.
The grips are still small enough to conceal with an owb holster under a cover garment
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  #38  
Old 12-02-2012, 10:37 PM
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pegasus416, the name of the game with revolvers, and especially little J-frames, is to find a grip that works for you. There are literally hundreds of different grips available, which is a great thing about revolvers- there's a grip out there for everyone (unlike semi-autos where in many, if not most, cases, you're pretty much stuck with the way the gun came from the factory).

You might want to try something like the 3 finger groove Uncle Mike's/Spegel grip Photoman44 pictured above or the Pachmayr Compac snubbyfan just mentioned, both of which are larger than the small factory rubber boot grip. If neither of those do the trick, there are other larger ones you can try, as well. You'll find something eventually that fits like it was made for you (and that's an option, too- there are a number of custom grip-makers out there who will make a grip to your specifications).
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  #39  
Old 12-03-2012, 01:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markush View Post
Here's the Miculek method
'

I try to use this grip when shooting my airweight but I really have to make a conscious effort to wrap the thumb over with the snub. 20+ years of shooting my other revolvers without the support thumb wrapped over is a hard thing to break.

I personally give the snub a death grip and let the rest of my arm absorb the recoil....The more it's allowed to "slap" into the web of my hand the more it hurts.
I tried this grip and it seemed to work well for me. I haven't had any formal training or picked up on any bad habits yet, so maybe I could do this.

I do agree with the other member though who said we should focus on practicing one-handed, as that may be the only way we may be able to use the snubbie in a real SD scenario.
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Old 12-03-2012, 11:12 AM
Triggernosis Triggernosis is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mphstiger1981 View Post
Meant to also ask what about the tightness of the grip? Holding a small bird in your hands, death grip or something in between?
Squeeze the snot out of it.
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:06 PM
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I tried a "high grip", seems very awkward esp when shooting DA. I like to have the curve of the backstrap fit into the palm of my shooting hand. I hang on tight, using the aptly named "crush grip". My off hand is farther forward than shown in the photo of the Miculek grip, the tip of my left thumb is on top of the first segment of my right thumb. My right hand holding the gun is cupped in my left hand.
LH thumb behind the web of the right hand doesn't look like a good idea to me-- too much chance of being bit by the hammer shooting DA or by the slide of a semi-auto. Been there, done that-- not fun. It might work for Miculek but for me-- no thanks.
FWIW I like a two-finger "boot" grip for a j-frame-- in my experience I lose concealability with longer grips.
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:21 PM
riverrat38 riverrat38 is online now
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"FWIW I like a two-finger "boot" grip for a j-frame-- in my experience I lose concealability with longer grips."

Especially for an alloy pocket gun. I think these guns, like my M442, loose a lot of their function if anything is added to increase the weight or size. In my case, I also prefer a boot grip on my no dash M60. I have not found that a larger grip makes them any easier for me to shoot.

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  #43  
Old 12-03-2012, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5Wire View Post
There was a Jerry Miculek video series which include his technique for two hand hold for snubbies where the offhand thumb crosses over the backstrap at or on the knuckle. I couldn't find the video. Maybe there's link to be found.
I try to shoot my snubbies this way also. But I have to be careful when shooting my Colt New Agent not to cross over the thumb. Forgot once and had a nice channel carved out across the left thumb knuckle.
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Old 12-03-2012, 11:01 PM
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Hmm. My offhand thumb is below the reach of any S&W revolvers I have without or with hammers just as Miculek's appears to be in the posted pic. On my 642 or BG38 or Model 38 when I had one, I keep my pinky folded firmly like a shelf under the butt with maybe a little downward cock to the strong wrist, both of which help resist muzzle flip. Nothing gets dinged. I hit the backstop every time.

On the K, L, and N I usually us a more conventional grip. Same with semis.
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  #45  
Old 12-04-2012, 06:03 PM
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That "Miculek" grip for the J-frame was the grip we were taught in the mid-70s at a Firearms Instructors class. All the students started using it, and I have used it for years. I've never had a problem with the hammer biting my left thumb when using a J-frame (I don't use .357 J-frames). We used it for our revolvers in the class, of which, none were J-frames. All students in the class were firing mostly K-frames with a few firing Colts. It worked then, and I guess Miculek says it works now. And no, it doesn't work with autos without turning your left thumb into hamburger. It's a revolver only grip.
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Old 12-04-2012, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ContinentalOp View Post
I've seen the technique. As great a shooter as Jerry Miculek is I cannot agree with using this method. If the only handgun you shoot or will ever shoot is a Centennial snub, then it might be OK. However, the left thumb could get in the way of the hammer spur on some revolvers. At best this would be annoying and at worst it could prevent the hammer from moving as far back as it needs to in order to fire. This is beside the fact that if you ever shoot a semi-auto you risk injury to your left thumb from the slide cycling.

I do use this grip technique, and it works great for me. I grip high up on the backstrap of all of my revolvers, from J frames to N frames. I've tried several different placements of the weak hand thumb and I do find that for me, wrapping it over the back of the strong hand helps me lock into the gun better for better control. At least with the J frames. It also helps me lock my strong hand thumb down to avoid it being bitten by the cylinder latch.

Admittedly, I only have three J frames; 1 centennial 640, and 2 bodyguards, a 638 and model 49. I've never tried it with an exposed hammer J frame but my hands aren't very "fleshy" so just looking at my grip I don't believe it would present an issue for me with any of them. Although I generally don't use that grip with them, I know that it doesn't cause hammer issues on any of my larger guns that have exposed hammers .
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1911, 340, 442, 642, airweight, bodyguard, centennial, concealed, hammerless, hogue, j frame, lock, model 28, snubby, snubnose, spegel, winchester

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