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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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  #1  
Old 12-09-2011, 05:47 PM
corgiS&W corgiS&W is offline
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Default Seeking opinions on a 686 for concealed carry

Used 686s seem as rare as hen's teeth so I'm considering a new one. I've narrowed it down to 4 choices and would appreciate some feedback to help me decide on one. First, barrel length: 2.5" or 3" and why do you hold this opinion? Second, 686 or 686+? The plus with 7 rounds is about $30 more, but is it really worth it in a cc gun? TIA
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Old 12-09-2011, 05:59 PM
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If the 686 is what you want to carry go for it, that is one darn fine pistol. Just my own preference as to barrel length is I don't like shooting mag. loads in anything shorter than a 3 inch. 6 or 7 rounds depends, You want 1 more before reload or a little slimmer for C.C. me I go six and practice a lot with the speed loaders.
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Old 12-09-2011, 06:13 PM
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Default 686

I got a pretty good deal on a 3" + and i like it alot. If i were buying new for cc i would probably go for a 6 shot. 2.5 or 3" wouldn't make much difference. Skip
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Old 12-09-2011, 06:19 PM
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I too am interested in a 686 for CC. My question is do you shoot 357 or 38 P+. What about some wood grip options?
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Old 12-09-2011, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgms View Post
6 or 7 rounds depends, You want 1 more before reload or a little slimmer for C.C. .
The 686 and the 686+ have the same diameter cylinder, so the 686 is not any slimmer than the 686+. The walls between each chamber are thinner to accommodate the additional round.

If I were buying a new 686 to carry, I'd get a 3" 686+. The 686 is already somewhat hefty, so why not go ahead and get the 3" barrel which gives you a full length ejector rod and the "plus" gives you an extra round. Now personally, I'd rather carry a more concealable (and lighter) K-Frame than the larger L-framed 686, but either will serve you well.

Last edited by 47D; 12-09-2011 at 06:38 PM.
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Old 12-09-2011, 06:34 PM
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I've carried both the 2.5" regular 686 & the 3" 686+ and I preffered the 2.5-incher. The L-Frame is already considered large by some people so the 0.5" extra bbl length between the two may make a noticable difference when added to the overall weight & size of the 686, generally speaking.

I no longer carry either on a regular basis and have since switched to a 2.5" K-Frame Model 66-2, which, to me, is just the right size.......

For what it's worth I carry cross-draw and my favorite 686 between the two mentioned above is the 3" 686+, just not for carry purposes.

Your mileage may vary......
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Old 12-09-2011, 06:43 PM
corgiS&W corgiS&W is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDay View Post
I too am interested in a 686 for CC. My question is do you shoot 357 or 38 P+. What about some wood grip options?
Most certainly practice with +P, and probably carry 357 (which will require some practice with that round. It's also possible that +P may be sufficient for carry with the option for 357.
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Old 12-09-2011, 06:46 PM
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If I was making a buy on a new gun I would go for a 686+ with a 3"bbl, Gold bead front site and a 10-8 U-knotch rear sight. Granted you may not need an extra round, but later down the road how many 686's will you find in that configuration?
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Old 12-09-2011, 06:50 PM
corgiS&W corgiS&W is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogilvyspecial View Post
I've carried both the 2.5" regular 686 & the 3" 686+ and I preffered the 2.5-incher. The L-Frame is already considered large by some people so the 0.5" extra bbl length between the two may make a noticable difference when added to the overall weight & size of the 686, generally speaking.

I no longer carry either on a regular basis and have since switched to a 2.5" K-Frame Model 66-2, which, to me, is just the right size.......

For what it's worth I carry cross-draw and my favorite 686 between the two mentioned above is the 3" 686+, just not for carry purposes.

Your mileage may vary......
I already have a 66 no dash with 4", so the 3" would be too similar that I hesitate to spend the $$ for what is almost a duplicate. In fact I have a 4" 67 no dash too.

I was planning on getting a cross draw from Lobo, but recently had GI surgery that eliminates the possibility of a belt, so I had Ray Cory make me a shoulder rig. I like it so much I may not go back to a holster on a belt. The increased weight of the 3" over the 2.5 will probably not be noticeable in that holster. I'm still not convinced the 7th chamber is worth extra $$.
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Old 12-09-2011, 07:01 PM
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The 686 is a great revolver, and my 4" is probably my favorite range gun now, but it is really to large for me to use CC. It's not the weight, just the size. Anyhow, I would go with the 7 shot and 3" barrel.
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Old 12-09-2011, 07:09 PM
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I support whatever one chooses to carry, but to me that is a lot of iron to carry on a regular basis, But then I am not a very large person, I carried my 686 deer hunting this year, which with a good holster worked out OK, but for everyday it is a 442 for me. msn
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Old 12-09-2011, 07:22 PM
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I would go for the 2.5" seven shot and a back brace.
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  #13  
Old 12-09-2011, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 47D View Post
The 686 and the 686+ have the same diameter cylinder, so the 686 is not any slimmer than the 686+. The walls between each chamber are thinner to accommodate the additional round.

If I were buying a new 686 to carry, I'd get a 3" 686+. The 686 is already somewhat hefty, so why not go ahead and get the 3" barrel which gives you a full length ejector rod and the "plus" gives you an extra round. Now personally, I'd rather carry a more concealable (and lighter) K-Frame than the larger L-framed 686, but either will serve you well.
I too prefer a K frame versus the larger and heavier L frame. I pack a 2.5" model 66 in a Lobo IWB and don't know it's there. With a quality IWB (Lobo) holster, a (Beltman) belt and a set of Ahrend FG Boot Grips it dissapears, never to be seen by anyone with the right outergarmet on. Recently drove 570 miles with it on and had no discomfort at all. I packed a 4" 586 OWB for a few months, years ago and much prefer my 66 to it. Much lighter, easier to conceal and will shoot .357's but they will recoil a bit more in the K frame. Been packing my model 66 here recently as a replacement to my Colt Commander and absolutely love it! Packed 1911's for over 20 years but due to rheumatoid arthritis in my right elbow and the pain from the recoil of a 230 gr. Speer GD had to go with something lighter. Glad I made the switch as the snub 66 is just as accurate at 25 yards and reloads are quick with a pair of speed loaders, but I put in alot of practice to speed my time up. If you treat the cylinders with Militec-1 lube/conditioner as directed, hold the revolver vertical and put a good whack to the ejector rod the cases will drop out from my experience with my 3 K frame snubs. Never have one not drop, including hot .357's. You can get a very good used one cheaper then a new 686. I load mine with Speer 135 gr. short barrel .38+P's and feel very, very well armed. It's an accurate round that will get the job done without all of the recoil, muzzle blast and flash of a .357. Accuracy is what really counts with a handgun and the recoil of these rounds is very controllable for fast follow up shots. Thanks 18DAI for the ammo tip!

If you do buy the 686 I recomend you immediately remove the IL and plug it up. I saw one activate itself at a shooting match a few years ago and would never carry one with it for SD. Chances of it happening are very slim, but IF it did happen would not want to be in that situation! JMO
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  #14  
Old 12-09-2011, 07:33 PM
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corgiS&W,
I am pondering a similar question also, and I am ranging from a 15 or 67 right on up to an N frame. (just missed a good deal on a 15)
Can you post some pics of that shoulder rig?

Due to my build I either carry owb or in pocket and that would be with a J frame or a small KAHR. Years ago I carried a model 10 OWB but then I did not have to worry about concealed but I was also alot younger and smaller in width.
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Old 12-09-2011, 08:36 PM
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The 686 for concealed carry?

100% reliable.

Powerful with 357 magnum ammunition.

HEAVY , your pants will fall down .


Allen Frame








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Old 12-09-2011, 08:59 PM
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Suspenders?
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  #17  
Old 12-09-2011, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sportsterguy View Post
I too prefer a K frame versus the larger and heavier L frame. I pack a 2.5" model 66 in a Lobo IWB and don't know it's there. With a quality IWB (Lobo) holster, a (Beltman) belt and a set of Ahrend FG Boot Grips it dissapears, never to be seen by anyone with the right outergarmet on.
I have this exact combo and couldn't agree more.
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Old 12-09-2011, 09:12 PM
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A 2 1/2 inch 7 shooter W/O a lock in a crossdraw is how I roll........
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Old 12-09-2011, 09:19 PM
corgiS&W corgiS&W is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C.S.63 View Post
corgiS&W,
I am pondering a similar question also, and I am ranging from a 15 or 67 right on up to an N frame. (just missed a good deal on a 15)
Can you post some pics of that shoulder rig?

Due to my build I either carry owb or in pocket and that would be with a J frame or a small KAHR. Years ago I carried a model 10 OWB but then I did not have to worry about concealed but I was also alot younger and smaller in width.
Here's a link to Lobo; it's the 9th one down: Lobo Gun Leather - Other styles and accessories
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Old 12-09-2011, 09:20 PM
corgiS&W corgiS&W is offline
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Suspenders?
Yep... The suspenders hold up the pants.
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Old 12-09-2011, 09:22 PM
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Not 100% positive on this, but I believe the 3" has a full length Ejector Rod. That is a plus if you need to speed reload it. The 2.5" normally has a short ejector rod.

I would also look at a 386 Night Guard. L Frame Air Weight 7 shooter. Losing a bunch of weight makes more difference carrying to me than the size.

The question might be how much do you plan to shoot it, VS Concealed Carrying it? If the main plan is for CC I would look at the 386 pretty hard. If you plan to try and wear it out shooting it 357 Magnum ammo through it, I might go with the steel 686 that will be more pleasant to shoot with carry ammo.

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Old 12-09-2011, 09:47 PM
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I have a 3" 686 and love it; however, it is quite heavy for me to carry. The 66 is lighter; but, I really like my 642 for carry (Note: the 686 and 66 are my range guns.)
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Old 12-09-2011, 09:51 PM
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It would cost a lot to find out the difference in a 4" 66 vs. a 3" as the 3's are spendy. The 2 1/2" 66 on the other hand is more plentiful and doesn't carry anything like the 4". The 686 in 2 1/2" is noticeably heavier than the 66 in the same barrel. I have all these and choose the 66 for daily carry...that's what it was made for.
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Old 12-09-2011, 11:43 PM
corgiS&W corgiS&W is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Photoman44 View Post
I would go for the 2.5" seven shot and a back brace.
My 4" 66 is only about 4oz heavier than the Colt Magnum Carry that I am currently carrying in the shoulder rig. A 2.5" 686 ought not to be significantly heavier than the 4" 66.
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Old 12-10-2011, 12:26 AM
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Default What is the TALO edition

I just found some fair priced 686s on GunsAmerica, and a number are labeled as TALO and carry a price premium. The only thing I saw was the unfluted cylinder. Are these worth the extra $$?
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Old 12-10-2011, 09:20 AM
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Default Carry with S&W 4"

I have been shoulder holstering 4" magnums for many years now. It seems big at first but after a while you realize the length of the barrel is not what you feel its where the cylinder rides. So, adjusting the holster is key. I started with a Model 19-3 but carrry my primary shooter now which is a 686-6 6rnd 4"bbl. I would consider a 3" but I wouldnt want to spend a day at the range with anything less than 4" so I prefer to just carry it as well.
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Old 12-10-2011, 09:58 AM
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I have both a 4" 686 and a 6" 586 but for carry, I'd opt for a 386 Night Guard and consider .38+P in a good SD round. To me, it's weight, not so much barrel length that matters for CCW.
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Old 12-10-2011, 10:02 AM
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I would get a 4 inch--I would also not discount a 586 (I like blue) and I would get a shoulder holster or a rig as shown in the pics below. It is a smacked up, old school duty rig- Can also be used with suspenders.
It rides high and easy on the hips without pulling the pants down.
Lot of ways to skin this cat but I would do the 4 incher.
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Old 12-10-2011, 10:31 AM
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If the gun is for concealed carry only, I would recommend a different one due to the weight. S&W has lighter options.
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Old 12-11-2011, 12:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarkSlayer View Post
I have both a 4" 686 and a 6" 586 but for carry, I'd opt for a 386 Night Guard and consider .38+P in a good SD round. To me, it's weight, not so much barrel length that matters for CCW.
I have a 642 and sometimes carry it in an S&W shoulder holster. Admittedly it's much lighter than a 686 will be, but in a shoulder rig the increased weight is not that bothersome for me.
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Old 12-11-2011, 12:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisj357 View Post
I have been shoulder holstering 4" magnums for many years now. It seems big at first but after a while you realize the length of the barrel is not what you feel its where the cylinder rides. So, adjusting the holster is key. I started with a Model 19-3 but carrry my primary shooter now which is a 686-6 6rnd 4"bbl. I would consider a 3" but I wouldnt want to spend a day at the range with anything less than 4" so I prefer to just carry it as well.
Right now I'm leaning toward the 3" with 7 rounds since it's just a tad lighter than the 6 round version. Now the uestion is to search used or just buy new; even most used ones have the IL.
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Old 12-11-2011, 12:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sportsterguy View Post
If you do buy the 686 I recomend you immediately remove the IL and plug it up. I saw one activate itself at a shooting match a few years ago and would never carry one with it for SD. Chances of it happening are very slim, but IF it did happen would not want to be in that situation! JMO
I have generally disregarded/ignored any posts about the IL because none of my revolvers are that new. So, if I get a new 686 how to I go about removing the IL and plugging the hole? What is the procedure involved? Does it reuire a ualified smith?
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Old 12-11-2011, 12:25 AM
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Originally Posted by corgiS&W View Post
Right now I'm leaning toward the 3" with 7 rounds since it's just a tad lighter than the 6 round version. Now the uestion is to search used or just buy new; even most used ones have the IL.
It's probably not any lighter once it is loaded with that 7th round.

The 686-4 can be found in a 3" barrel "plus" version without the lock, but they are pretty rare. If you were looking for a 4" or a 6" 686, I'd say "buy a pre-lock one." They are numerous. But since you are looking for a 3" 686 with the "plus" cylinder, I would advise you to just order the new one and disable the lock (unless you are a very patient man with extra money to spend).
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Old 12-11-2011, 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by corgiS&W View Post
I have generally disregarded/ignored any posts about the IL because none of my revolvers are that new. So, if I get a new 686 how to I go about removing the IL and plugging the hole? What is the procedure involved? Does it reuire a ualified smith?
It's pretty easy. I removed the lock on my 627 and installed "The Plug" with absolutely no difficulty. There are videos on youtube to walk you through it.
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Old 12-11-2011, 12:57 AM
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There is one advantage to the 6-shot version of the 686 that no one has mentioned: you can shoot it in SSR class in IDPA with easy to obtain speedloaders. (I don't know if they make speedloaders for the 7-shot version, but it would be a pain to use even if they do, as you can't load more than six rounds at a time.)

I say this because I just traded into a 2.5 inch 686-4, which works much better than I would think in IDPA. (I usually shoot a 4-inch 686-4). With its short barrel, it is very fast out the holster. That would work for a self-defense scenario too.

That said, I'd spend the extra money for a three-inch 686, just for the full-length ejector rod. Of course, I've never seen one for sale in the flesh.
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Old 12-11-2011, 09:29 AM
corgiS&W corgiS&W is offline
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Originally Posted by 47D View Post
It's probably not any lighter once it is loaded with that 7th round.

(unless you are a very patient man with extra money to spend).
Hadn't thought about that. (I fit neither category.)
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Old 12-11-2011, 09:34 AM
corgiS&W corgiS&W is offline
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There is one advantage to the 6-shot version of the 686 that no one has mentioned: you can shoot it in SSR class in IDPA with easy to obtain speedloaders.

I say this because I just traded into a 2.5 inch 686-4, which works much better than I would think in IDPA. (I usually shoot a 4-inch 686-4). With its short barrel, it is very fast out the holster. That would work for a self-defense scenario too.

That said, I'd spend the extra money for a three-inch 686, just for the full-length ejector rod. Of course, I've never seen one for sale in the flesh.
That is an excellent point. But I think all the 3" versions I've seen listed are 7 rounds. Another decision.
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Old 12-11-2011, 09:55 AM
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Six shot or seven shot, 2.5" or three inch barrel = if you going to CCW via shoulder rig it really doesn't matter.
If you already have a Model 19, why not carry it loaded with .38 Plus P such as 158gr. LSWC-HP?
When I was much younger I CCW a Model 29 6" or a Model 28 4". As I grew older the size and weight of the weapon became smaller and lighter.
At present the CCW is a Glock M-27 with a five shot 2" as secondary (BUG)
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Old 12-11-2011, 09:56 PM
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I bought a 686 today with the 3" barrel. Any suggestions on a good defense load for this model?
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Old 12-14-2011, 12:40 AM
Infidel Infidel is offline
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I use a 3" 686+ as my primary carry. I keep it loaded with Remington 158gr LSWCHP+P, though I mostly shoot 158gr FMJ ammo at the range.

I carry it in a nice OWB holster made by Luke Adams of Adams Holsters.
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Old 12-14-2011, 11:10 AM
586DCM 586DCM is offline
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I sometimes carry a 4"bbl 586 in a high ride DeSantis Speed Scabbard or a shoulder holster. But I am looking to pick up a 2 1/2" L frame with the round butt for easier carry. As for 7 shot vs. 6 shot, I prefer the 6 because that is what I am familiar with and my Comp II speed loaders are all 6 shot. I don't think Safariland makes the Comp II for the plus, but HKS might make one. But I like the Comp II push release over the HKS twistys.
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Old 12-14-2011, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff45 View Post
The 686 is a great revolver, and my 4" is probably my favorite range gun now, but it is really to large for me to use CC. It's not the weight, just the size. Anyhow, I would go with the 7 shot and 3" barrel.
What he said.

My 686-4, plus, 4", RB is my FA-VO-RITE range gun. A friend has a new 686+ 3" and I've shot it a lot. It would make a great cc if you can deal with the weight. Likewise with the 2.5".

Personally, I don't carry .357 because, in the short barrel lengths (2.5" in my case) the thing is as much a flame-thrower as it is a gun. The noise would deafen me and the flash (at night) would blind me. I tested it, it was not pleasant. So I stick to .38+P for cc. YMMV, IMHO, etc, etc, etc.

Edit: my ccw's include a 66-4 in 2.5".
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Old 12-14-2011, 11:50 PM
remat457 remat457 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 47D View Post
The 686 and the 686+ have the same diameter cylinder, so the 686 is not any slimmer than the 686+. The walls between each chamber are thinner to accommodate the additional round.
Noteworthy that they also did move the cylinder notches.

Quote:
If I were buying a new 686 to carry, I'd get a 3" 686+. The 686 is already somewhat hefty, so why not go ahead and get the 3" barrel which gives you a full length ejector rod and the "plus" gives you an extra round. Now personally, I'd rather carry a more concealable (and lighter) K-Frame than the larger L-framed 686, but either will serve you well.
This is exactly what I was going to post!
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  #44  
Old 12-15-2011, 11:44 AM
MikeChandler MikeChandler is offline
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You can also look for the 681+ (7 shot) 3". It's got the fixed sight, which IMHO is more appropriate for concealed carry. You can find the PC ones made for camfour on the used market; they have no interlock.

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Old 12-16-2011, 12:07 AM
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Sorry to sort of hijack but my questions fit pretty well into this thread.
Im looking into a new 686/varient and it will be used to CC IWB most likely in a MS VMII. I would much prefer a regular 686 3in but alas S&W does not make one. I do not want the Plus model one as I dont like HKS speedloaders and as of right now Safariland doesnt make one for the Plus model. Does the 686 2.5in model SKU: 164231 have a full length ejector rod or no, and does anyone know if/when S&W will becoming back out with a regular 686 3in? As for weight im sorry to say man up lol, according to S&W website stats a 686 4in weighs 3ozs less unloaded then my TRP unloaded and the 686+3in is 6ozs less and the 686 2.5in is 8ozs less and I have a very bad back+leg injury from Iraq and have no problem IWBing my TRP in MS VMII w/ 1 1/2in horsehide from the beltman all day w/ 642-1 in Alessi ankle holster, its all in what gear you use and how its set up. So is the 2.5in model equipped with a standard length ejector rod or no and if not is it really a hindrence enough to wait for S&W to come out with a 686 3in and does anyone know if/when S&W is planing on coming out with the 686 3in again?

P.S. I hate plastic and love all steel 1911's so thats why the weight is not a factor for me. Again sorry for the sort of hijack.
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  #46  
Old 12-16-2011, 12:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrobertson View Post
Does the 686 2.5in model SKU: 164231 have a full length ejector rod or no ... ?
No. It takes a 3" barrel in a L-frame or K-frame .357 to accomodate a full length ejector rod.
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  #47  
Old 01-30-2012, 07:23 AM
ShinySix ShinySix is offline
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Every now and then I'll strap on the 686 6" six round in a Simply Rugged sourdough pancake held up with a 1.75" strap from Beltman. I throw two Safariland comp-2's in the pocket and I'm good to go. And then I sit down and that grip extends about four inches out of my back like some freakish birth defect under my shirt. I have some retro combat square butt grips from Ahrends on order, but I'm starting to doubt the whole concept.

I can deal with the weight, the bulge of the speedloaders, and the barrel length. But I cant overcome that massive grip. That's what you have to look out for.
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Old 01-30-2012, 03:52 PM
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Default I am able to CC a 686 2.5"

I do it IWB with a Side Guard holster and a good belt. Yes, it's heavy to tote all day, but it's doable, and I actually enjoy it. The lines of a revolver hide nicely against the human body. I practice with "full house" loads and carry the Speer Gold Dot Short Barrel .357 load. It's a really mild .357 load IMO.

I have Hogue Bantam grips installed by the way. Those are pretty compact.

Last edited by xopher88x; 01-30-2012 at 03:55 PM.
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Old 01-30-2012, 04:16 PM
riverrat38 riverrat38 is offline
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"Noteworthy that they also did move the cylinder notches."

That is a function of having an odd number of chambers in the cylinder. With an even number, the notches fall at the center of the chambers. With an odd number, they are between the chambers, the same as the flutes.

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Old 01-30-2012, 04:27 PM
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For what it might be worth, here's a photo taken after my first post in this thread for use in another 686 thread.

It should give someone an idea of the size difference between the 2.5" & 3" 686's

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