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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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Old 02-11-2012, 11:40 PM
duster78 duster78 is offline
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Default Best way to clean burn marks on bead finish revolver?

I recently picked up a new S&W 627PC "Bloodwork"



....anyways I took my new toy to the range and got some burn marks on the sides of the non-fluted cylinder. The gun has a bead blast finish and the stainless brush I used left some small marks/scratches. What is the best way to clean a bead blast finish revolver burn marks? I'm not so worried anout the burn rings on the front of the cylinder face but the ones on the side. Any advice would help. Thanks
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Old 02-12-2012, 01:32 AM
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Permatex gasket and carbon remover at you local auto supply store. Soak the spots you want to remove and let them sit 10-15 min. then wipe off with a soft rag. There is another product I use called GM upper engine cleaner and the same procedure but it seems to take more applications to remove the carbon than the Permatex. Don't try any polish as it may remove the carbon marks but eventually it will shine the bead finish in those spots. Don't use these on anything painted or let it get on your grips. I use it on my 629 to remove the burn marks on the front of the cylinder. I have used Hoppe's #9 with a nylon brush ( or tooth brush )but it didn't seem to work as well the other methods.
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Last edited by team sidewinder; 02-12-2012 at 01:38 AM.
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Old 02-12-2012, 01:44 AM
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DONT use a stainless brush!!!
birchwood casey (and others)makes a leadaway cloth...will takes the carbon right off...do not use this cloth on a blued surface
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:45 AM
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Lead Away cleaning cloths are slightly abrasive so I would avoid using them on a bead blasted finish. What I've been using on my 625 JM is M-Pro7 cleaning solution and it's worked very well. So well that I'm a bit shocked at how easy the 625 is to clean up, compared to the full polish on my 610 the 625 cleans up like it was coated with Teflon. However, the face of the cylinder does show signs that it's been used because the carbon in this area defies anything except the lead away cloths, which I won't use on the 625.
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Old 02-12-2012, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scooter123 View Post
Lead Away cleaning cloths are slightly abrasive so I would avoid using them on a bead blasted finish. What I've been using on my 625 JM is M-Pro7 cleaning solution and it's worked very well. So well that I'm a bit shocked at how easy the 625 is to clean up, compared to the full polish on my 610 the 625 cleans up like it was coated with Teflon. However, the face of the cylinder does show signs that it's been used because the carbon in this area defies anything except the lead away cloths, which I won't use on the 625.
This is the method I use. I have found that M-Pro7 Is the best product out there. On the cylinder face I have found a 5 or 10 minutes soak with M-Pro7, and then a quick scrub with a nylon brush soaked in hoppes #9 is just the trick for cleaning the cylinder face. Takes a little elbow grease but it comes off.
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Old 02-12-2012, 01:35 PM
jack the toad jack the toad is offline
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Best way to clean burn marks on bead finish revolver? Best way to clean burn marks on bead finish revolver? Best way to clean burn marks on bead finish revolver? Best way to clean burn marks on bead finish revolver? Best way to clean burn marks on bead finish revolver?  
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I know it's not what you're wanting to know but I'd just wipe off to avoid any buildup and not be bothered by the stain unless I was storing or selling.
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610, 627pc, 629, bloodwork, fluted, model 625, sig arms

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