All, looking to see if anyone can help out with this request.
I'm looking at SW Model 66 with 4 inch barrel. Looks to be in good shape.
Questions:
1) Is $ 500 a fair price ? I've seen prices all over place on the gunbroker websites.
2) What is date of Mfg ? Serial # is ADK 1595
3) What else should I look at to determine if it's been shot extensively ? Bore, Timing on Cylinders

Thanks,

Made in 1983.

Here's my gun store examination (when you have no tools and just have to use what you have with you). To check the timing, make sure the gun is empty (then make sure again), then pull the hammer back slowly -- the cylinder latch at the bottom of the frame window should click into each cylinder notch before (even just slightly before) the hammer locks back. Check each chamber.

To check tightness of lock-up, pull the trigger and keep holding it back after the hammer drops. With the trigger still held back, try to wiggle the cylinder side to side. A tiny bit of wiggle is fine. What's too much? Once you have tested a few guns that you know are OK you can easily tell what's too much (too much and you will be shaving lead and spitting it). Test each chamber. The cylinder should never allow you to wiggle it right out of the notch!

The cylinder gap between the cylinder and the forcing cone should not allow the corner of a standard business card to slide in between -- still you should get a bit of daylight on each chamber. Test each.

Make sure the cylinder opens and closes smoothly. Make sure the trigger pull is smooth (once again if you have pulled triggers on several "good" S&Ws, you will know the feel).

Then, look down the sights and see if the barrel is screwed in to straight-up 12 o'clock (occasionaly the factory over or under screws the barrel). If they shoot to point of aim a lot of guys don't mind a slight cant -- but in buying a used gun -- I'd prefer a 12 o'clock barrel.

To check the bore, use a white business card to reflect light up the barrel. If it lacks pitting and the rifling is fairly sharp (albeit sometimes a bit dirty) it's good.

Oh, if it's good, $500 is ballpark.

$450-550 is about what they go for here. If yours was made in '82, it is a 66-2. To put it in perspective, I bought a 66-2 4" at a gun show in February for $375 that was in good shape, didnt have the original grips, but had a nice set of Pachmayr Grippers which are great to shoot. The 2 1/2" barrel ones seem to go for a little more.

$500 sounds about average. To me, it's a little high but I'd pay it in a flash if I was looking for that gun.

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But then, what do I know?

I just recently bought 2 of them.

The first one was a 66-2, 2 1/2" barrel made in 1985 or 86.
The second one was a 66 no dash 4" barrel made in 1976.

I bought the first one from a co-worker for $400 and he wouldn't budge one bit lower. The second one I found at a gun show for $390.

Both had nice Pachmayr grips on them , but I wanted stock originals and spent another $85 for grips for both.

I'm happy with that. $500 seems a tad high, but I would have paid that each for the way mine are now.

All thanks for the reply. Sounds like it a normal price but not a great deal. I know the LGS has inspected and will offer a warranty on it. Decision Time.....

Buy it, shoot it, love it. You will be glad you did. There won't be any more as nice as the pre lock 66. Regards 18DAI

I'd second that....

I'll add to this as I just sold a 66-2/2 1/2" barrel with original wood stocks, Pachmayer grips and a holster for $570. I see the same pistol came up a couple days later for $800, now down to $760. I owned it for 7 years, this guy can't wait 7 days!

I know what you mean, I've seen guns sold here show up on GB almost before the UPS truck leaves their residence.

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Sure you did

I paid $400 for a nice 4" 66-2 yesterday. Came w/ no box or original grips. Has some Hogue monogrips on it.


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Quick thread bump here...

I picked up a 66-5, 4" bbl for $320. The Uncle Mike's are the one thing on it I want to swap out. Any recommendations for wooden stocks? I figure the round butt might work nicely with some combat grips, but I'd like to hear other opinions. Just an FYI, I don't have huge hands... target grips on a square butt K are uncomfortably large.

Interesting, I have a model 66-1 S.S. 2 1/2" Ibought new I think middle to late 70's. Probrably has not fired 50 rounds if that. still in original box from factory. Anybody know what it is worth?

In my area a good 66 goes right at your price. I have had one and prefer the 19 in 2.5. Made the change and love the gun. I also loved the 66, but must be moderate in these days. It was a 3 inch 66, hard to find. If you like the gun, it is in good condition, then get it. Concur with previous post, there will not be more.

At one time, the 4" M19/66 was the primo service handgun in law enforcement. It still is a primo piece to own IMO. Buy it, love it, follow the advice in buying a revolver offered by Ashlander above. He knows his stuff!

My cousin has a model 66-2 fully dressed with a 6" barrel, and I am going to buy it from him but we are not sure what a fair price for both of us would be. He has taken very good care of it so it is in excellent condition. Any input would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

Whatever you pay for something that was a great and popular product but is no longer made will seem cheap in a short time. Each day, there are fewer really nice examples of those items left to buy.

Two years ago, I bought a like-new 2-1/2" Model 66-4 for $416. How cheap does that sound today? Four years ago, I paid $540 for a like-new 4" 66-2 with its box, paper and tools plus target trigger, hammer and trigger stop. About the same time, I paid $436 for a near-new 6" 66-2. All three were auction buys so I paid what the market demanded then. One thing I knew for sure - none of them will ever be worth less.

Ed

Here's my track on the original model 66 snubbie:

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Bob

I have read several posts on the potential damage to both the 66 and 19 by using steady loads of 357. My question is what do you look for in inspecting one of these guns for damage caused by 357 loads. What should I look for? Also, what about buying online? Without a physical inspection how can you comfortably buy one of these models online?

Check the usual things and take a close look at the bottom of the forcing cone for a crack.

I have a medium sized hand. I've always liked Hogue grips. I usually have fitted my K frames with nylon and rubber Hogues. These are beautiful and durable for wood grips: