I have just recently heard of this practice and was wondering if any of you do it and what kind of wax you use? Car wax?

Of course.
Johnson Paste floor wax (cheap) or
Renaissance wax (what museums use)

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NRA/ OK CHL Instructor

I've done it for years. I use it on my knives as well.

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Noblesse Oblige

Just started using Renaissance wax. Expensive but good and it only takes a little.

Oh yeah, I use wax on the blued guns. Ren wax is great. The small surface scratches are just not as visable now as they once were. OK, maybe it is just me, but I can say they look better than they did before I started using Ren Wax. Easier to clean after a trip to the range as well.

As a very young deputy sheriff, I was taught to take the grips off my blued revolver, put the unloaded revolver in the oven on it's lowest setting, wait until it was fairly warm, then put on the turtle wax. I was told that the heat opened the pores in the steel and the wax filled the pores, and when the gun cooled, it would protect against rust. For those who doubt the effectiveness of this method, my Dan Wesson that I carried in a regular border patrol holster and then later the "judge" holster, showed no rust, even after being caught directing traffic in a rainstorm that drowned my Motorola belt radio.
The Officer that taught me this has passed on, and to honor him and thank him, I just wanted to pass this on.

good tips
I use hoppes on my blued revolvers. Do i go directly to the renaissance wax after the Hoppes or do I use something else in between.

You would need the gun clean, not oily.
I prep mine with alcohol and a microfiber cloth before waxing.
Polish thereafter with another cloth.

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-jwk- US Army '72-'95

I use a home brew bee's wax grease I made for my BP guns. It's about the constancy of a chap stick it's not for looks but as long term storage. It smells good and leave my hands silky smooth plus it works well on all my blue steel and walnut.

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Regards,
Guy-Harold Smith II

What is wrong with using Rem oil? I spray a light coating on mine and wipe it down with a soft rag. I have **** loads of wax in my garage for my cars. Also. most car waxes are silicone based so I do not know if that hurts the bluing or not.

James

Renasance wax is the way to go. They use it in meuseums to protect everything from paintings to rare coins as well as firearms. Expensive yes, but so are your firearms. Alittle goes a long way.

No fingerprints after coating with Renwax - here is a photo of my M10-7 after a coat of Renwax - great stuff and a little bit really does go a long way.

Attachment 75252

Pete

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"Right Side" WA State

+1 for Ren Wax

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Romans 5:1 US Army '76-'84

i use renissance wax...best product on the market...think about it...do you use rem oil to protect the finish on your car?

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SWCA#2208
KK4EMO

I have been using Renaissance Wax on my "blued" fire arms for years and I am still on my first jar. A little does go a long way.

My Dan Wessons, Luger P-08s and Walther P-38s get a coat of Renaissance Wax twice a year. The wax is good for anything you want to protect, be it steel, leather or something in between.

Vv

Paint and bluing is totally two different things. I was wondering if you could use car wax on your guns, can you?

James

You could use car wax as long as it doesn't have a polish in it - you don't want to "polish" out the blue finish. Don't know why you would want to though - Renwax is $15 for a jar that will last you many years and you can use it on a number of things - including your holsters and fine furniture. I've used it on glass, wood, leather, my stainless steel guns as well as blued.

Pete

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"Right Side" WA State

I use Renaissance Wax on all my revolvers, rifles, and shotguns.

Good point. Any other household waxes work?

James

I use ren wax on my blue, nickel and stainless revolvers. It is easy to use and a jar will last me years.

ren wax is good stuff! i have used it for years on my nickel guns. then i started using it on blue guns that i don't really shoot. then i started using it on blue guns i DO shoot. now, i use it on everything. i even use it on my old heavily worn double barrel 20 ga bird gun. i don't guess i use it on matte finish stuff, but basically everything else. no oil film, no finger prints, looks better, sheds water, just FEELS clean!

try some. you will like it!

What areas do you guys usually cover your guns with the wax?

Do you reapply a thin coat after every cleaning?

Renaissance Wax. Great stuff. Just take the grips off and put a *light* coat on all the metal. Blued, stainless, nickel, don't matter. Let dry for a few minutes, use a soft clean tee shirt and polish the wax off and watch it shine. A little goes a long way.

Renwax is good, and safe. Do not use car wax. Flitz also makes a gun wax. Here's a link to the American Historical Foundation that talks about do's and dont's of waxing fine firearms, and how it should be applied:

The American Historical Foundation - Museum-Quality Firearms

i love to hunt in the rain, a lite rain. the deer move in this condition, for years i have coated my rifles with Johnson Paste wax. i learned this from ken waters, i have went for as much as a year without taking it off my gun after it got wet many times that year. no rust, the water runs off.

I used Turtle Wax in the old days. It sure helped preventing rust from forming on the blue guns. Nowadays, I don't carry a blued gun. I carry something like a stainless, melonite, or tenifer finished gun. They're a lot easier to keep up now. Just wipe down with a lightly oiled cloth, and they're good to go.

I degrease the gun after removing the grip then I apply 7 coats of carnauba wax polishing each individual coat with a chamois - IF YOU BELIVE THAT THEN I ALSO HAVE BRIDGES FPOR SALE - YOUR CHOICE OF LOCATIONS.

In over 50 years of shooting and having some guns which are almost 100 years old I have only used a good gun oil as aprotective- currently I use Rem-Oil since it forms a protecdtive surface without any oily residue.

Bought some vintage stereo speakers and I clean the cabinets with "Howards feed & wax", the rag I use to apply the stuff says in a box that has my other furniture oils & etc, my 29 and 19 after cleaning get finished with a quick wipe down with the left overs of that rag and then a clean rag wipe and the blued guns have a nice even streak free sparkle. My stainless guns are finished after their cleanings with a clean rag that wipes evenly any residual oil over the entire surface. Seems as though the SS doesn't need a real detailing to look good.

Another one here for ren wax best stuff ever. I wish I had discovered it 25 years ago.

Where can I get some of this stuff?

I get rem wax at the Rockler woodworking store in Salem, NH. They tell me that all Rockler stores carry it.

Thanks, there's a Rockler store not far from me.

+100 for Renaissance Wax (Ren Wax). In my opinion, it's the very best "non-abrasive" wax money can buy. I attempt to maintain all my firearms in mint to near mint condition, and Ren Wax is one of the best investments any firearm owner can make. The company also makes a "mildly-abrasive" product called Pre-Lim which is a cream paste designed for non scratch cleaning, which is perfect for removing lighter scratches from any blued, nickel, stainless or chrome finished guns.

Renaissance products are great for preservation and restoration of many valuable products besides firearms.

To research and purchase this product, go to restorationproduct.com.......... I'm pretty darn certain you'll be satisfied with the results.

the Shadow

I use Renwax on the metal. Applied with the plain side of the velour, and polish with the soft side. First, remove the stocks and cylinder release, and wax them separately. This is the results.
David

Attached Thumbnails

       

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Be Kind! John 3:16,14:27

WOW! Those are some beautiful Revolvers!

I use Johnson's Paste Wax just because thats what I have.

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C & L

I don't have many blue guns pretty enough to be worth the effort No point in waxing a 70% blue Model 28 lol

The ones I do have don't get used enough to warrant a coat of wax, and also, I have gone full stainless for all my carry guns.

I began using Turtle Wax to the outside surfaces on my blued S&W mod. 19, while attending the San Diego Sheriff's Academy (1971.) Through the years in all kinds of weather, in California and NW Oregon, the wax has prevented any kind of corrosion. Interior surfaces were well lubricated with gun oils. I carried the Mod. 19 as my duty weapon from 1971 until 1987, when we were allowed to begin carrying semi-autos. Aside from a little holster wear that rubbed off some bluing, the finish is in excellent shape. Not just this one, but all of my blued firearms, handguns, rifles and shotguns, are protected with car wax.

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Retired Police, Life NRA

Can it been used on these?

Mostly the Johnsons paste wax, works great.

I'm curious, maybe one of the chemist-types can answer this?

I was under the assumption that a blued finish, at least as pertains to firearms, requires a continual application of oil to prevent red oxide aka rust from forming on the surface. Obviously based upon some of these posts this is not the case.

So what's up re. the wax? Does it supplant the need for oiling, or is that also still required as well?

thanks,
Dave

Interesting thread...I already spend enough time cleaning guns that my wife will likely divorce me when I start waxing them.

Question - anyone have any problems with powder or lead residue sticking to gun when it is waxed and then fired? Or is this just for display non-firing guns?

Nope...not just for display guns. I wax my blued hunting rifles as well. Keeps rust away from hunting in the rain.

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C & L

differant in what way?you are still protecting a finish...i dont use car wax..as i mentioned i use renaissance wax

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SWCA#2208
KK4EMO

Ren wax is the way to go. I think the revolver cleans up faster after a day at the range when it has been waxed. Also you get to play with the revolvers a little more when you wax.

Took my M60 and used the Renwax on it to see what it does on Stainless Steel.

Before:
Attachment 75665

After:
Attachment 75664

Attachment 75663

Makes a difference I think.


Pete

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"Right Side" WA State

Very Nice!

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C & L

I always use G96 cover metal and wood never had a problem

Pete, I think you are correct. It does make a difference. Looking good.

Thanks - looks like it gave it some depth and a little extra sheen/shine. Also up close it appears to have filled in some of the lite scratches. Worked nice on the stocks too.

Pete

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"Right Side" WA State