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05-16-2012, 12:00 AM
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OK Tell Me How This Happens.......
I have read hundreds of times not to dry fire a rimfire S&W because it could hit the chamber edge and ding it.
This doesn't make sense to me. There is more than enough clearence between the firing pin and the chamber edge, I have measured it.
Can anyone tell me why this statement continually comes up?
Now I can understand on a non recessed barrel and a unlimited firing pin travel. I have seen several 22 rifles this way. But a S&W has limited firing pin travel.
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05-16-2012, 12:10 AM
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I have a Ruger Single Six with a frame mounted firing pin. I dry fired it extensively not realizing that the firing pin had broken. The broken piece was retained by the frame and was driven forward (as if it were an inertia pin and hammered the edge of each chamber).
The same thing can happen to a Smith.
Dale53
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05-16-2012, 12:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jspick
I have read hundreds of times not to dry fire a rimfire S&W because it could hit the chamber edge and ding it.
This doesn't make sense to me. There is more than enough clearence between the firing pin and the chamber edge, I have measured it.
Can anyone tell me why this statement continually comes up?
Now I can understand on a non recessed barrel and a unlimited firing pin travel. I have seen several 22 rifles this way. But a S&W has limited firing pin travel.
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I do not know how you measured it but S&W advises not to dry fire their rimfire revolvers, because the firing pin can hit the chamber edge and damage both, the firing pin and chamber edge. If it is your gun and you are convinced that there is enough clearance, go ahead and do it. Just be prepared to repair it. Yours may be an exception.
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05-16-2012, 12:59 AM
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It not only "could" happen, it will. I've seen quite a few K-22 cylinders (and firing pins) destroyed by dry-firing. Remember, the firing pin travels farther forward (by inertia) when struck by the hammer than its apparent forward resting position with the hammer down, so the clearance you have measured is not there when the hammer strikes the firing pin. Best practice - never dry-fire a rimfire gun. Hope this helps.
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05-16-2012, 01:40 AM
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I have a 29-6 with a broken firing pin because I dryfired it. S&W says on their website that it is perfectly fine to dry fire any centerfire handgun, be it revolver or auto. This is the first S&W revolver I've had since the early 1990's. I was trying to get used to the light single action pull, and the very different double action pull. I've been shooting Glocks since they first came out with a 45, and the two systems are very different.
My point here is, if my firing pin broke on a handgun which is OK to dryfire, what do you think will happen to the firing pin of one that is not supposed to be dryfired?
Use snap caps if you have to dry fire it.
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05-16-2012, 02:37 AM
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I use fired cases when dry fireing my M17.
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05-16-2012, 09:58 AM
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By definition in any 'rimfire' the pin is going to hit the rim. It will break eventually. Guaranteed.
Just stick some fired cases in there and 'voila' - discount snap caps!
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But then, what do I know?
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05-16-2012, 12:24 PM
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There's even a special tool - the chamber iron - that gunsmiths use to partially correct dry firing damage on rimfires.
As all the others have advised - just don't do it!
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05-16-2012, 12:49 PM
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Snap caps or fired cases will ensure that you won't damage the revolver.
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05-16-2012, 12:58 PM
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I had a Uberti Stallion that I dry fired and it certainly left dents in the side of the cylinder chambers. I had to file them just enough to repair them. I now have a S&W 18-0 that has recessed chambers. It appears that the firing pin does not touch the cylinder when fired. BUT! I don't dry fire this gun unless I have used cases or snap caps in it. Just in case. The gun is to valuable to take a chance. Why not take an extra moment with yours and assure that it will not be damaged. Good shooting.
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05-16-2012, 01:51 PM
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Every gun has different tolerances. Some will absolutely reach the chamber edge and some will not quite hit it. Best policy is to never dry fire one.
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05-16-2012, 02:02 PM
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Some rimfire firearms are designed so the firing pin stops short of the chamber, others are not and will cause serious damage to the chamber and/or firing pin in short order. My SIG Mosquito is OK, as is my Ruger 10/22. My S&W 34-1 and 1960'ish High Standard Citation are NOT!
In any case, dry firing puts a lot of stress on the firing pin or its stop. It's best to use a snap cap to keep the stress within acceptible limits. A fired cartridge is quickly peened out until it provides no further support.
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05-16-2012, 04:31 PM
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Well, even with a firing pin stop in place the pin it is still "stopping" on that stop, not on the snap cap. A rimfire snap cap will be beat to death shortly if the pin is hitting it every time. In my experience the only snap cap to use on a rimfire is an empty case turned so that it will be struck on a virgin part of the rim. After 2 or 3 hits it's trashed and isn't really helping.
Last edited by Drail; 05-16-2012 at 04:34 PM.
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