I have a 625JM. I've had 3 trips to the range with 100 rounds during two sessions and 150 during another. I cleaned it after each session and I am experiencing a cleaning problem. The only way I can remove the powder/blast marks from the cylinder is by using Hopps #9 and a nylon bore brush. I don't have that problem with my 686. My question, are the heavier blast marks on the 625 due mainly because of the. 45 load or is it because of the matte finish on the JM Model? Is there something better than Hopps?

Tough question but any good gun sovent used with a medium scotch brite pad should remove the stuff you want and leave the finish a matt finish instead of polished.

If you absolutely insist on removing the non-harmful staining from the cylinder, use a "lead-away" cloth or buy some Slip 2000 Carbon Killer.

Either will remove the staining without damaging the finish like an abrasive Scotchbrite pad will.

The birchwood casey lead remover cloth is very good. It will remove those burn rings in a couple of minutes with relatively very little effort.


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There actually are many among us who couldn't care less about the burn rings, make enough effort with a cloth patch to get what comes off easily, and then get on with life.

As D says, they harm nothing, on top of which they'll always return when you shoot the gun.

If you're talking about carbon & lead deposition on the outside chamber walls between flutes, those I do remove. I do it on a stainless gun with a brass brush, the leadaway cloths work well too.
Denis

Thanks guys for the suggestions. I'm going by the LGS today and pick up one of the lead away cloths. I am mainly talking about the deposits between the flutes. I thought about using a small brass bore brush but didn't know if lt would damage the matte finish. Thanks again!

For general removal of gunk on my stainless N frames I've found the G96 product to be far and away the best. For the front of the cylinder a brass bristle brush is fastest.

A tiny bit of metal polish, like Brasso or something similar,on a rag, will wipe away the burn rings in a second. Gentle and quick.

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Pisgah

Birchwood Casey Lead Remover and Polishing Cloth!!! I have a 460 XVR which REALLY dirties up the cylinder face... 30 seconds with these cloths and it looks brand new...

I have tried solvents and brushes... Save your time and give the cloths a go. You won't be dissapointed

For heavy discoloration, I use a little bit of JB Bore Paste on a cue-tip... but it is an abrasive so you have to be careful with it...However my new favorite cylinder face cleaner is Mother's Powermetal Polish I picked up a Wal-Mart. A forum member recommended it to me and it works phenomenal! Also really good for removing light feather scratches

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I tried one today and it works great. Very little effort needed and it polished like new. Thanks!_

For that between-the-flutes deposition, I've seen no damage to the satin finish on any of my stainless cylinders from the bronze brushes I've used for quite a while.
It'd eventually polish it some, I suppose, but I don't care.
Denis