I have new, old and really old K frame .22s. They all shoot very well. There is however a different feel to a 10 shooter’s DA pull versus 6 shooter’s. The 10 shot cylinder completes rotation about 2/3s of the way through its DA pull so you can’t use the cylinder stop popping up just before let off to warn you it’s time to hesitate or “stage the pull”. Both 6 shooters and 10 shooters can be honed so smooth that it is hard to feel cylinder lock up at all, and of course this all doesn’t matter if you habitually pull straight through in DA or only shoot SA. Nevertheless, I prefer 6 shot K22s so I’m practicing with .22s that feel the same as my center fires.
Despite that, it sounds like you are getting a deal that makes it worth buying a revolver you otherwise wouldn’t. However, I can't imagine how the lock can adversely affect a .22's function unless you get to the range with it locked and the key left at home. I’ve even been known to lock my 617 while it’s left unattended in my car. Remove your new lock if you must, but the revolver will still look to new to appear traditional, so I don’t see the point. I generally avoid removing parts from guns without good reason because over the decades utility guns that appeared to have no collector value acquire some, the parts get lost and the manufacturers discontinue them. Guess how I know this.