I have a 6" 686-2 revolver that I bought new in 1988. I really like the gun, and would like to add a scope or red dot sight for hunting. The 686-2 is not factory drilled and tapped. I plan to have that work done either by S&W, or by a gunsmith/machinist friend of mine.

My question is somewhat academic, because I have no intention of selling this revolver. However, I would like to hear from folks regarding exactly how much they believe the value of the gun might change. I plan to make the drill and tap identical to current production guns.

Thanks,
Lou

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NRA Certified Instructor & RSO

Based on asking prices of non-factory drilled/tapped guns (admittedly some of these were not nice-looking), expect a 10-20% drop in value.

Have you considered one of the "no-gunsmithing" mounts?

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

b-squar makes a mount that uses the rear sight screw holes and a clamp on the barrel, it works very well, have one on my 686 for over 20yrs. never had any problem with it.

If you do go that route, one of these options sounds *much* better than the other.
;-)

If the person buying even notices. Just match the factory. Keep in mind most aren't as aware as you are.

IMO if you use the factory pattern it won't have any effect on the value at all. Most dealers and nearly all purchasers won't know that the earlier revolvers were tapped and won't care. In addition those who are aware of the difference might consider having an older revolver drilled and tapped as a positive.

BTW, I have a 1988 vintage 67-1 and 1992 vintage 617 that are both now drilled at tapped to the new pattern. Did it myself in a Bridgeport mill at work and the DRO on the mill made it a very easy task. However, I will warn you to purchase a reamer to insure that the drilled hole is EXACTLY to size prior to tapping and be VERY VERY careful to not break that tap off in the hole. It took me a full 2 hours to do both revolvers because I knew that a broken tap would result in some rather expensive EDM machining to remove the tap.

PS; attached is a dimensioned layout for the standard factory pattern. I would suggest shifting this pattern 0.03 inch towards the rear of the revolver because the front hole is positioned so that the tap can cut into the rear of the barrel if you run it in that far. That extra 0.03 inch will also give you a bit of additional spacing from the existing hole for mounting the rear sight assembly.

Attached Files

s&W STANDARD MOUNTING PATTERN.pdf (2.9 KB, 94 views)

Been pondering the same.
My 625-3 would rock with a red dot sight.
If I do it, It will be sent to S&W performance center.
I have reached the point where anything I cannot do goes to Springfield.

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-jwk-
US Army '72-'95

For goodness sake....either have S&W do it, or a very competent gunsmith. I like kenjen's idea. You can always go back and make the gun regular. I have seen guns completely ruined if this is not done correctly. As in my neighbor that took-on the job and drilled the front hole just over the BTCG. It did not take long for it to flame-cut the hole screw-n-all right up through the front of the top strap. Gun ruined.

Scooter,
Thanks for the reply and for the detailed drawing and suggestions for moving the holes 30 thousandths rearward. I had always noticed that the factory holes were oddly located close to the barrel on my N-frame 625 in .45ACP, but had plenty of clearance on my K-frame 617. Since this is a 686 with a fairly short "barrel extension", we may get away without having to move the pattern back. I'll be sure to check that carefully.

FYI, my good friend the machinist/gunsmith also has a Bridgeport mill and DRO setup.......in his home workshop! I'll ask him if he has a reamer and if not I'll buy him one.

I appreciate the input from everyone, thanks!

Lou

__________________
NRA Certified Instructor & RSO