I have this "pretty nice" M15-3 that I picked up a few years ago (from a forum member, AAMOF). Decent for the money, but it always had an annoying, inconsistent hitch in the trigger. I'd tried everything but nothing worked. Tonight, after reading a thread about cylinder rub, I tried a Ron Power endshake bearing and voila!, the hitch is GONE. It's like a whole new gun! I backed the mainspring tension screw out a turn and the trigger is very light and returns great. I'll take it to the range this weekend and dial in the tension, then trim the screw, and I think I'll have a winner!

I do happy dance!!!!

There is lots to be learned here. Congrats on repairing your revolver and now you can say, "I did it myself". Bob

just so you know, the tension screw was never designed to be ajustable. all the way in and tight is the proper setting.

Thanks, but the logic behind the warning against unscrewing the tension screw is to avoid a loose screw backing out under recoil and making the gun unreliable. If you shorten the screw so it will tighten you can safely use it to adjust the spring tension.

+ a little blue loctite of course!

If you like, I guess, but it's not necessary. The screw will be held in by its own tension, just like it is from the factory.

I had a hell of a time getting the strain screw out of a 686 I just bought, sure enough when I got it out, it was all "locktite'ed" up. They also did the cylinder release screw/nut too.

Just beware to not over-do it, or you may not get it out, and never use RED locktite

not true, the logic is to provide reliable ignition. If you want to mess with springs to lighten
trigger pull work on the spring inside the rebound slide, not the hammer.

Just went right past you, didn't it?