This is my first revolver and I am having a hard time determining what this is. I've been browsing the internet for answers, but haven't seen any related post. Could it be rust or copper fouling from the factory? Thanks

It looks like a bit of copper from the test firing at the S&W factory...
Nothing to worry about.
You should always clean a new gun anyway.

RonJon

__________________
Stand behind our troops!

I have attempted to clean it and got no results.

If you are concerned, I'd suggest calling S&W and email them the photo. Their CS is usually top notch.

Unless you are using a good copper solvent and following directions for it, you might as well be trying to clean it with water. Ordinary powder solvents won't touch it.

__________________
Science plus Art

use butch bore shine.

+1 on the Butch's Bore Shine. Sweet's 7.62 Solvent might even work a little better on copper fouling. Many custom barrel makers recommend it for breaking in new barrels. Here's a link to the break-in procedure recommended by the company that has made two barrels for me.

http://www.mcgowenbarrel.com/BarrelBreakIn.pdf

Ed

Stainless steel is rust resistent, not rust proof. So it is possible that it is some sort of rust or corrosion, depending upon age and storage condition. But that is doubtful. I have actually seen rust inside the side plate of older model 60's and 66 no dash guns when doing routine maintenance.

I think the suggestion to try Sweets is a good one. One thing you should know is that Sweets is high corrosive in it's own chemical make up. You'll smell the ammonia as soon as you open the bottle and beware what you get that on. Also don't leave it on the bore. Swab it off completely and then oil. I think one of the best ways to clean and polish your barrel is to use JB Bore cleaner. I might try coating the barrel and polishing it a bit with the JB. Then take the JB and some cleaning supplies with you to the range and shoot some lead rounds to warm the barrel up and clean it again. First get the excess lead out with a Lewis Lead remover and then use the JB again. If that material is ever going to come out that will be the time. JB was developed to remove old cooper fouling and material from barrels that had lost their gilt edge of accuracy and bring them back to useful. It does work well but is not something that should be used every time you use a firearm as is it an extremely fine abrasive paste material.

I'm more concerned about the quality of the cut in the forcing cone. It looks like the cutter is passed due to be swapped out.

It does look like the cutter was past it's useful life. I just took a look at my new 686+ and it looks much better than the picture. I wouldn't panick though, it will likely shoot just fine.

I'd send it to Smith for a fix.

300-grade stainless is pure stainless and is not magnetic. 400-grade stainless contains some carbon to make it harder and is magnetic. 400 is what is used in the manufacture of firearms and having some carbon in its make-up, can rust.

Ed

Just shoot it.

__________________
Memory of Randy Freas-Rimfired

If it's rust, it's superficial. Like the man said, "just shoot it."

I am a perfectionist on my new firearms so I would see what S&W says with the rough cut and potential corrosion.

I have had great luck removing copper fouling with Hoppe's 9 Elite Copper Terminator. Tough to find, but works without ammonia.

The best solution for new S&W revolvers is old S&W revolvers. The one I bought brand new was in 1993. Good luck.

Another prime example of why I would not buy a new smith and wesson revolver, besides I am sure for the same price you paid or even less you could have bought a prelock 686 or nice 686-4 Like New in the box .

Eric

My vote is that it is a touch of copper. I just looked at some of my 686's, and a model 60 and a model 640. I shoot copper jacketed bullets in all of these, and some have a smidge of coloration similar to yours.

I just clean them with hoppe's and leave it at that. I don't try to remove the carbon rings, etc. They just get dirty again.

I would not worry about the forcing cone not being a pretty cut until after you shoot it. If the gun groups nicely (provided the shooter does his part), and it functions fine, then I would keep it. Last think you need is to send it away for a cosmetic fix, and it come back with a canted barrel or marring. I only send guns back if there is a serious defect. But that's just me.

Forcing cone is a bit rough but not a problen unless it spits.

Try some Breakfree Foaming Bore Cleaner.

I've cleaned some unholy copper fouling with that stuff.

On the worst fouling I've let it sit in the bore overnight. It works.

Shoot cast lead bullets. The powder/bullet lube residue mixture will quickly cover up the copper with a black smut. By the time you get all that guck scrubbed off, your revolver will be stainless steel pristine.

Whats the problem, are you going to shoot it or impress people with how shiny it is? It will get dirty, it won't affect the accuracy, and the bad person won't care if they were shot with a dirty gun.

__________________
S&WHF 366

I'm not sure I'd worry all that much about it. Many years ago when I was shooting in service rifle and highpower rifle matches we never really worried about whether all the copper fouling was out of the bore. I would clean my rifles after a match, but just a few passes with a Hoppes soaked brush and then cloth patches until the powder fouling was cleaned out.

It is common practice to shoot a couple of "fouling" shots to get your rifle to settle in from a clean bore. There was a marked difference in the point of impact between a clean bore and one that was fouled.

I agree with the poster that said to just shoot it. I think you are worrying about a non issue.

The powder fouling at 4 o'clock on the frame below the barrel shows the gun has been test fired at the factory and not cleaned afterwards. There may be powder fouling on the top of the barrel and bottom of the top strap but I can't be sure as it may be from your picture being too dark.

Point is quit nickpicking and go shoot it.

Maybe it's my eyes, my monitor, this pic, or a combination thereof, but I see hues of orange not only inside the bore/cone area, but also on the barrel face & outside surface, as well as the frame (look at the frame edge at 7:00 and 1:00 by the top strap junction. If that's the case, that's some hella factory copper fouling.

Can you confirm that and maybe post another pic w/ different lighting and/or angle?

How does the muzzle end of the bore look?

As already mentioned, that forcing cone cut is terrible IMO too..

Dave

Easy to tell. Use a bore cleaner that says it removes copper. Rust will come out on a patch as reddish. Copper will come out on a patch as a bluish green tint when used with a cleaner containing ammonia. I think it's copper as the barrel is unlikely to be the ONLY place rust appears if the gun was handled that poorly.

I'll try to get some better ones uploaded. Trying to get good lighting is becoming a pain in the butt.

^ that right there.
There is no such thing as perfection, just variations of 'good'.
Hammer the livin' daylights out of that thing and don't give it another thought. You will love it.

Looks good to me, shoot it

Hey all I finally got out to shoot it and the discoloration went away. This is my first revolver and I am so satisfied with this purchase. Just turned 21 this month so now im looking at the 442 for ccw. Thanks for all the input. I'm looking to do some upgrades to the pistol. Can anyone suggest a good set of sights? preferably a green fiber optic front with a all black U notch rear. Also should I maybe upgrade springs for a lighter DA pull? Thanks

25 rounds 7 yards

Good news, what ammo where you using?

PMC .357 158gr JSP

Hogwash. I have old and new and the newer ones shoot as good, or in most cases better than the older design.