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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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  #1  
Old 09-14-2013, 10:46 AM
Sonders Sonders is offline
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Default Model 49 disassemble

I recently bought a model 49 and would like to disassemble it to have it cerakoated. Having trouble finding a detailed diagram for breakdown. I see the obvious remove the side panel from the frame, but not sure on actually taking out the hammer and trigger assemblies and so on. Any help in pointing me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 09-14-2013, 12:58 PM
Double-O-Dave Double-O-Dave is offline
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Sonders:

Welcome to the Forum. Are you Cerakoting/painting the piece yourself? It seems that you are not sure of how to fully disassemble your Model 49. While it is a pretty straightforward process, there are some subtle things that can make disassembly and reassembly tricky. It may make more sense for you to take it to a qualified gunsmith and tell him/her what you are planning, and ask them for assistance. Rather than Cerakote, have you thought about having a satin chrome or nickel finish instead?

Regards,

Dave
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Old 09-14-2013, 01:28 PM
Sonders Sonders is offline
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Dave, thanks for the response and the welcome. The gun is going to my uncle who is a certified Cerakote applicator; definitely not doing it myself. Went to good ole youtube as recommended by another member and found a pretty good detailed strip video.
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Old 09-14-2013, 02:40 PM
shawn mccarver shawn mccarver is offline
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Just remember not to pry up the sideplate. You will cause irreparable damage. Use properly fitting "hollow ground" screwdrivers so you do not destroy the screws. Be careful not to over-extend the hand backwards to clear the frame or you will cause the stud on the hand to slip past the spring and your hand will not properly engage the cylinder ratchet on reassembly. Do not over tighten any screw on reassembly. Do not use loctite of any variety when reassembling. Do not pry off the grips, lest you damage the frame or the grips. Do not lose the hammer block when removing the sideplate. Do not let the rebound spring fly off into parts unknown and use a proper tool to replace the rebound and spring into the space in the frame. The sideplate screws are fitted, and are not interchangeable, so make sure each one goes back in the correct hole. Do not attempt to disassemble the cylinder without either a proper cylinder disassembly tool or acceptable substitute, and remember not to shear the locator pins by loosening or tightening the center pin without supporting the extractor properly with the specific tool or at least empty cartridges in the charge holes.
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Old 09-14-2013, 03:54 PM
Double-O-Dave Double-O-Dave is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn mccarver View Post
Just remember not to pry up the sideplate. You will cause irreparable damage. Use properly fitting "hollow ground" screwdrivers so you do not destroy the screws. Be careful not to over-extend the hand backwards to clear the frame or you will cause the stud on the hand to slip past the spring and your hand will not properly engage the cylinder ratchet on reassembly. Do not over tighten any screw on reassembly. Do not use loctite of any variety when reassembling. Do not pry off the grips, lest you damage the frame or the grips. Do not lose the hammer block when removing the sideplate. Do not let the rebound spring fly off into parts unknown and use a proper tool to replace the rebound and spring into the space in the frame. The sideplate screws are fitted, and are not interchangeable, so make sure each one goes back in the correct hole. Do not attempt to disassemble the cylinder without either a proper cylinder disassembly tool or acceptable substitute, and remember not to shear the locator pins by loosening or tightening the center pin without supporting the extractor properly with the specific tool or at least empty cartridges in the charge holes.
Excellent, what Shawn McCarver said. Also, a lot of people do their disassemblies inside of a large, plastic bag to help catch any springs or other parts from flying to places unknown. I've known people who took a piece of cardboard and drew an outline of the pistol on top of it. Whenever they removed a part or screw, they taped it down in the appropriate place on the cardboard drawing - this is especially important with the three screws which really seem to confound a lot of people.

Best of luck,

Dave
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Old 09-14-2013, 11:10 PM
Sonders Sonders is offline
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Shawn, awesome info. Thanks man. Also great tips As well Dave, thanks. Hopefully get some free time later next week to actually get it apart so I can drop it off to get coated. Great little gun, shoots awesome just didn't have the greatest of finish on it when I picked it up so going with a simple Armor black color.
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Old 09-15-2013, 11:59 AM
Double-O-Dave Double-O-Dave is offline
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Sonders:

Sorry, I wasn't thinking...where are you located? If you are in the Austin, TX area, maybe we can get together, and I'll be happy to help you. If you provide your location, I'm sure other Forum members would be glad to help you if possible.

Regards,

Dave
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Old 09-15-2013, 06:42 PM
Sonders Sonders is offline
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Sorry about that Dave, guess I need to go in and edit my profile. I'm in Southern Indiana; so don't think we'll be getting together for you to assist me haha. The offer is greatly appreciated though.
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