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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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Old 08-27-2014, 10:04 AM
Hfrog355 Hfrog355 is offline
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Default Revolver work options

Came into some good luck and have withdrawn my M29 from sale and am going to keep it for a bit, including putting some money into it. Would love some opinions on getting different work done - and whether or not S&W Performance Center is my best option.

First off, I'm going to get the cylinder replaced. There's a nick in one of the locking detents that keeps it from locking solidly in place. It has functioned fine as is, but in the interest of safety (and the behest of someone who knows better than me), I'm going to have it fixed.

I'm also interested in having the action smoothed and trigger lightened somewhat. Can anyone give me a quick and easy breakdown of the pros/cons and differences between the PC's Master Revolver Action Package and the Outdoor Package? I'm not shooting this gun in competition or anything (yet), but do feel the trigger/action is a bit heavy.

Finally, I have been scanning quite a few threads looking for info on gunsmiths. Given that I need to have the cylinder replaced and possibly do the action work, would it just be easier to have S&W do the work or turn it over to a random smith I find around here? Would love recommendations if you've "got a guy".

Thanks and I'm glad I'll be around the wheelgun section a bit longer.
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Old 08-27-2014, 10:23 AM
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My choice would be S&W, but be prepared for quite a wait for custom work.
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Old 08-27-2014, 12:28 PM
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Oof. Quoted 4-5 months turnaround time and close to $400 for the cylinder replacement and master action package from PC.

Very interested in independent gunsmith recommendations now...
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Old 08-27-2014, 12:40 PM
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If you can show us a photo of that nick in the cylinder we might be able to offer some advise on a fix. It sounds like something that might just need a little careful stoning.

As far as the action work- the Miculek video is good, if you feel you're up to getting into the guts of your gun. If not, there are quite a few good gunsmiths to go to, but that 4-5 month wait S&W quoted might end up being the quickest turnaround. But, Cylinder & Slide, Sokol, Clark, TK Custom, and Pinnacle (Mark Hartshorne) are just a few names that come to mind. A quick websearch will get you there on contact info.

Unless you have a real problem with the action, just a good clean and lube, a spring change, and maybe a little stoning or polishing on the rebound slide can make a lot of difference, and is pretty easy if you have any mechanical skill at all. HTH
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Old 08-27-2014, 12:55 PM
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$400 and 4-5 months turnaround is actually pretty decent for the work that you want done. Check with Cylinder and Slide to see if they can do any better.

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Old 08-27-2014, 01:08 PM
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If you can show us a photo of that nick in the cylinder we might be able to offer some advise on a fix. It sounds like something that might just need a little careful stoning.


The barrel doesn't freely rotate when that detent is engaged, but it doesn't take much torque to get it to spin when it is supposed to be locked. All 6 positions operate as expected and I've never had an incident because of it, but I can see how it could become an unsafe situation. I'm picky enough that since I'm going to keep the gun, I want to get it fixed.

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As far as the action work- the Miculek video is good, if you feel you're up to getting into the guts of your gun. If not, there are quite a few good gunsmiths to go to, but that 4-5 month wait S&W quoted might end up being the quickest turnaround. But, Cylinder & Slide, Sokol, Clark, TK Custom, and Pinnacle (Mark Hartshorne) are just a few names that come to mind. A quick websearch will get you there on contact info.

Unless you have a real problem with the action, just a good clean and lube, a spring change, and maybe a little stoning or polishing on the rebound slide can make a lot of difference, and is pretty easy if you have any mechanical skill at all. HTH
I'll check out the list you've got there. I didn't realize the market for revolver work was so backed up across the board. I just figured if I'm sending it in for work already, I might as well have them give it a little TLC. Probably wouldn't be modding the action if I didn't already have to send it off.

Thanks
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Old 08-27-2014, 01:16 PM
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Tom at TK Custom is doing revo work again including trigger jobs.



Welcome to TK Custom.com & Moonclips.com
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Old 08-27-2014, 03:31 PM
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I notice the gun has a lock, so it is new enough to be covered by their lifetime warranty. Send it back to Smith, I would expect them to replace the cylinder under warranty and pay freight both ways. Warranty work is usually pretty quick, other, optional work takes forever.
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Old 08-27-2014, 04:32 PM
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I don't think this would be covered under warranty - it's not a defect in materials or workmanship.
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Old 08-27-2014, 05:11 PM
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You might try Gene Williams in Princeton, Tx.
I, among others here, will vouch for him.
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Old 08-27-2014, 09:08 PM
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Mag-Na-Port in Michigan.

Excellent work!
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Old 08-27-2014, 10:01 PM
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I don't think this would be covered under warranty - it's not a defect in materials or workmanship.
Then I am curious as to what caused it and how deep it is. If it has not been causing any problems, it might be ok as is.
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Old 08-27-2014, 10:14 PM
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The barrel doesn't freely rotate when that detent is engaged, but it doesn't take much torque to get it to spin when it is supposed to be locked. ...

Thanks
I know you meant cylinder.... If the problem is that the cylinder stop is not dropping (or raising, if you prefer) into the slot, just get rid of the metal that's preventing proper operation. I have a diamond file meant for carbide saw blade touch up that I have used in skinny spots like that with good success, but a small stone or good jewelers file would probably work fine.

At least, that's what I would do if I didn't want to spend a bunch of money and wait months for my gun to get back.

And, if you call S&W and describe the problem, and ask for a shipping tag, you might be surprised at how accommodating they can be. It's a roll of the dice, but they have treated me well in the past. Not sure how it is now, however. :-/

Good luck, and let us know what happens.
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Old 08-27-2014, 10:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2hawk View Post
I know you meant cylinder.... If the problem is that the cylinder stop is not dropping (or raising, if you prefer) into the slot, just get rid of the metal that's preventing proper operation. I have a diamond file meant for carbide saw blade touch up that I have used in skinny spots like that with good success, but a small stone or good jewelers file would probably work fine.

At least, that's what I would do if I didn't want to spend a bunch of money and wait months for my gun to get back.

And, if you call S&W and describe the problem, and ask for a shipping tag, you might be surprised at how accommodating they can be. It's a roll of the dice, but they have treated me well in the past. Not sure how it is now, however. :-/

Good luck, and let us know what happens.
Can you post a pic of the metal working stone that you describe? Who sells those?

Thanks!
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Old 08-27-2014, 10:53 PM
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M3, can't find a good link to what I have, except for this:

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...t-prod797.aspx

What I have is a small triangle Arkansas stone, 1/4" x 3". I don't know if that's the same as the Brownells.

However, I would be looking for something like this if I had the OP's problem, and I didn't already have some tools:

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...-prod6099.aspx

HTH!
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Old 08-28-2014, 12:29 AM
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Nah, the problem is that material is missing, not misplaced into the detent.

It was chipped when I had a squib round. The thoughtless gunsmith just took a mallet to the cylinder and sheared the bullet in two by forcing it open. This is my first revolver to own, so I didn't think too much of it when the gun continued to operate as expected. Only later did I see the chip and much later did it start to bother me and only now am I looking to replace it.

I'm going to call a couple of places in the morning to see what fixing it looks like. Will decide then if I'm even going to proceed with a fix at this time. As I said, it shoots and turns just fine and lockup is mostly solid except you can twist the cylinder out of that locked position without moving the hammer or trigger.
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Old 08-28-2014, 01:36 PM
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Looks like I'll be doing some business with Tom up at TK Custom. Extremely nice and professional guy. Anxious to see the quality of work (getting the cylinder replaced and some extra action massaging...) that gets returned to me. I'll keep the thread posted.
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Old 08-28-2014, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
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Nah, the problem is that material is missing, not misplaced into the detent.

It was chipped when I had a squib round. The thoughtless gunsmith just took a mallet to the cylinder and sheared the bullet in two by forcing it open.


"Gunsmith" is a polite term for the hack who did this. I'd be paying this "gunsmith" a visit with a bill for the damage he did. That is completely unacceptable. Imagine if you took your car in for a flat tire and the mechanic gave it back with the tire fixed but now it had a broken axle.
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Old 08-28-2014, 01:50 PM
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Yeah, I know. Unfortunately I don't think there's anyway for me to recoup that money as it happened months ago and there's no record of it. It's my mistake for not being more critical of what was done to my firearm. Like I said, the gun operates perfectly fine, even if there this safety risk has existed all this time. FWIW, I didn't pay anything for that "work".
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Old 08-28-2014, 01:55 PM
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Ouch, just catching up. TK will do right by you, I'm sure. I would pay the gunhack a visit and show him the bill after the work's done, although it's probably like trying to get blood out of a turnip, etc. Sometimes the least expensive option turns out to be the most costly.

But, sounds like you are getting this squared away. Post photos after you get your gun back!
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Old 08-28-2014, 04:24 PM
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Years ago, I had squib loads like that when loaded on the dept's old Star loading machine. Just used a cleaning rod and pounded the bullet back into the case, and opened the cylinder. Wonder why that was so difficult??

I see why you want to replace the cylinder. Let us know how it works out.
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Old 09-11-2014, 10:06 PM
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Gun got home from TK Custom very quickly from what I can tell, they did an excellent job. Trigger feels very smooth and the new cylinder looks good as new.

I took it to the range for a bit today. I'm still experiencing some light strikes. The gun will do this with reloads and with Blazer factory ammo. Any ideas?

I'm going to call TK Custom in the morning to see if they have suggestions. I'm looking at ordering the Cylinder and Slide extended firing pin as I am guessing that is my issue. Anyone have experience with this part?

Cylinder & Slide Extra Length Firing Pin New-Style S&W J K L N-Frame
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Old 10-01-2014, 05:31 PM
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Wanted to close the loop on this.

Installed an Apex Tactical firing pin and the gun is right as rain. Shot about 100 rounds with no issues. Crossing my fingers that the issues are now behind me and I can just enjoy the gun.
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Old 10-01-2014, 05:53 PM
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Another comment, if I can Hfrog. It does me good to know there are people out there who would not just try to pawn it off on some poor sucker who did not know how to inspect a revolver. You sir have the proper ethics.
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Old 10-02-2014, 04:32 PM
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Heh, thanks. People who deal in bad faith are hurting the macro market for whatever they are dealing in. I try to be as forthcoming with things as I can be.
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