I saw a 642 no lock at the local store, went back to buy it and it was sold!! The sales person said let me check in back and came out with a box I was excited... Opened the box and it was the lock model. I probably shouldn't care but I dont want to have regrets down the road.

Bummer! You showed remarkable self restraint, sir.

By the way, if you search for 642-1 on GunBroker, there is at least one listing for this no lock version, "factory new" and priced with a buy-it-now of $469 plus $50 for overnight shipping.

That price seems a little high to me. But, sometimes the auction prices with transfer fees and shipping are not very different from the local purchase price with sales tax. YMMV

Good call on waiting for the no-lock model.

I figure that this will be the gun I will always keep. I do have a shield in 9mm but that wont work as a pocket gun. Also, down the road I may not be interested in maintaining an auto. I guess I should have started with the J frame but the shield is fun at the range.

Question does one of the finishes hold up better than the other? I dont have a preference and most likely jump at the next available, but if I have a choice.

I just don't understand the lock thing. If you don't like it take it out. Just don't understand it. This is the way of the future, people have to learn to deal with it. If not, keep driving up prices, the future is in your hands.

Can't speak for anyone but myself but.....
Because the lock is Ugly, and we don't want a gun with a hole
in the sideplate where the lock used to be. It usually means
MIM internal parts as well. Why "settle" for completely unnessecary.
Good call on waiting for a no-lock model.

Chuck

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They hold no Quarter

I think S&W is now starting to "get it".

These are my two "post lock" 642-1 snubbies. Current production, but the old style no lock version.

Hopefully they will add more models without the lock in 2014.

Edmo

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TRUTH: Don't delete my posts!

Just have patience - there are plenty out there for those who look and are selective about their purchases. There are many reasons that I would not buy a I/L that I won't go into for the "millionth time", but IMHO you are FAR better off with a vintage J. You are NOT looking for a needle in a haystack!

I have to agree, bought a Model 37, Nickle, what more could you want . Its all up to how much you will put out for.

After checking all the local shops and nothing, all of them telling me no clue and check back every week. A found a local dealer who sells out of his house who said he would look around for me. The next day he called and told me he has one on the way for me, a 642 without the lock. I told him I was surprised because of what the other shops told me. He said when he ordered it the guy asked him "how many do you want?" Seems like the local shops dont want my money.

My questions are, remember I am new to handguns so any extra advice would be great.

What would be good ammo for me to practice with?
I would like to get a pocket holster, would a desantis nemesis be a bad one to start with?
Is there anything else I should consider getting?
Are there any other questions I should be asking?

Thanks

Good news, sir! Congratulations!

In my experience, a Nemesis is a great way to pocket carry. Uncle Mike's has a similar product. Both last a long time, work well, and are available at a reasonable cost.

You will probably find 125 grain and/or 130 grain, normal pressure, .38 Special ammo available at reasonable prices. That would be a good choice for your practice purchases.

My wife and I seem to experience better accuracy with offerings from Federal and Remington than the cheapest Winchester. But, all of the US manufacturer products seem to be more accurate than the imported stuff.

Even though it is +P, if you can find it, this stuff works really well and the recoil is not much greater than normal pressure rounds. YMMV

I have he lock model. It works just fine.
If you are scared of the lock I say "***?"
The lock model will shoot as well as a no lock model.

Wait for the no-lock.

Down the road, no matter what transpires regards legislation etc, which do you think would be viewed as the most desirable? Lots of folks have no issues w/ locked guns, but there are many who do. On the other hand I have never heard anybody complain that a gun they were considering DIDN'T have a lock.

All things being equal I'd get no-locks when I could.

Thanks guys, and keep any small revolver info and experience coming.

It is a no-lock coming and didnt cost any extra. If no-locks were not available I would have I would eventually gotten one with the lock. I am not in a big hurry and when having a choice I always try to be patient and get my first choice. I guess I was lucky because I only waited a week and it was $10 less. The only hold-up is the guy is heading to the shoot show and I have to wait for him to get back.

I dont plan on carrying right away because I want to practice and get comfortable with it first. I dont see wanting to carry a HKS style re-loader but have herd that extra ammo with a 5 shot is important, is this true. What are the thoughts on the strips?

I believe they are the most commonly used method for carrying a reload. Although I have a couple of JetLoaders, usually the only thing in my pocket is a speed strip with 5 rounds.

At least in my neck of the woods, the chances that a reload would be needed are vanishingly small. The JetLoaders are great toys. We have a cold range, so I take one along to reload before driving out the gate. But, it really is mostly for entertainment value in my case. Yeah, there are plenty of guys who would feel poorly equipped without them. They are probably in more serious situations than I will ever be. So, a speed strip is more than enough.

You will have to make your own decision. If you can borrow a speed loader to experiment, so much the better. Speed strips are inexpensive enough to just buy one and not feel guilty if you don't ever use.

I like your unhurried approach, sir.

I know mine looks like yours but It lighter than the advertised 15 oz or the scale is off. Cant wait to shoot!!

It's 15 if you round up.

I'm a dinosaur, and prefer the standard velocity, roughly 158 grain lead SWC or 148 grain WC for .38 snubbies. No worry about whether there will be enough velocity to expand, cuts a full caliber hole, not unpleasant to shoot. If you are dead set on a HP design for carry, the winner there is the .38 +P gold dot short barrel 135 grain. I find it unpleasant compared to my .44 special snubby, but experiences and opinions on that issue vary and yours may not match mine.

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NHI, 10-8.

Very cool! I hope you enjoy yours as much as I do mine.

Hey guys with new production 642s, just curious how is the fit and finish? I went to pick one up at my LGS but the only one they had looked like it was machined and assembled by a drunk monkey so I passed on it. The side plate fit was horrible, rough with a big gap and the barrel was canted.

They also had a 638 that was excellent in fit and finish. I will try again when they get another 642 in.

These days you have really have to look, apparently. While I don't see any bad ones around here...there's lots mentioned on the internets.

My 442 no-lock was flawless.

I can try to take some up close photos it that helps. It looks well build, but its my first revolver so I have nothing to compare it to.

-Look down the barrel with a flashlight and look for scratches or pitting.

-Make sure the gun is unloaded, pull the trigger and keep it pulled. While the trigger is back, see how much the cylinder moves. None is ideal, but the less the better.

-Dragging your finger along the ejection rod to slow the pace, slowly pull the trigger repeatedly, listening to make sure the timing of the gun is in place.

If it passes these three, chances are you have a winner.

You know your guns, sir. Don't think anyone could pass off a bad one on you!

I understand the timing check, have done it more times than Carter's has little pills (remember that?). But I don't understand the dragging of the finger on the cylinder or ejector rod. Seems to me you're putting an additional stress on the mechanism that isn't there when the gun is fired...

Best wishes and good shooting!

71velle,
In answer to your earlier question, yes, a Desantis Nemesis is a good pocket holster for a 642. That's what I use when a pocket holster is needed.

I normally carry OWB in an American Pride Leather holster for j-frame snubs, in the 4:00 position on my belt. Disappears under whatever shirt I wear. It's good quality, has excellent retention and only costs $24.95 at Amazon.com.

Not sure if I understand this one. Is it to make sure the cylinder is locked before the hammer strikes?

Also their is a little movement in the cylinder after the trigger is pulled. Is this something that will worsen with time?

Back to Ammo I just saw lead round nose made by Magnatec (not sure on the name) it was cheaper than the FMJ by about $5 per box. Should I care if its FML or LRN?

Thanks for all the help!!

Interestingly, one day the "lock" models will be the ones worth extra money...it always happens that way with firearms!

Don't let the internal lock dissuade you from owning a very good firearm.

A lot of hooey is made of the possibility that the lock can somehow engage during a defensive shooting situation...that hyperbole ignores the salient fact that ALL revolvers including ALL that came before the internal lock model S&W's are capable of OPERATOR INDUCED malfunction that is far more likely to happen in a real-life, stress-fire, shootin situation than the IL deciding to deploy itself.
ALL DA revolvers can be short-stroked causing the cylinder to advance without the hammer being cocked - NO FIRE!
ALL DA revolvers can be short-stroked causing the hammer's DA lever to jam against the trigger sear resulting in LOCK-UP with the cylinder, hammer, and trigger "locked" until the operator releases pressure.
ALL DA revolvers can and WILL fail to return the cylinder to full lock if improperly handled during ejection of spent cases and powder debris gets between the crane and frame.
ALL DA revolvers can and WILL BIND UP once heat build-up causes the forcing cone to expand and contact the cylinder face! This will happen FASTER on a Ruger than a S&W due to Ruger's generally smaller BC gap, and will also tend to happen faster on magnum calibers, especially the .357 magnum when firing "real" .357 loads.
ALL DA revolvers can and WILL become inoperable during the ejection of spent cases if improperly handled and any single case rim drops in behind the ejector star.

When ALL humans are confronted with danger they undergo a stress transformation known colloquially as "Fight or Flight" during which fine motor coordination evaporates to be replaced by increased gross motor strength. Vision and hearing tend to "narrow" and the person becomes highly focused on the threat. All of these NORMAL and CANNOT BE MODIFIED human responses work AGAINST the mechanical "deficiencies" of the the double-action revolver.

This is WHY semiautomatic pistols long ago became the military standard...they have FEWER inherent mechanical weaknesses.

Many who choose to carry a DA revolver for self defense will claim, "none of this applies to ME," yet of course ALL of it applies because it is ALL beyond the control of anyone...the gun is made the way it is made and functions the way it functions...the shooter cannot "train" to overcome this BECAUSE the shooter him(her)self becomes the WEAK LINK during the stress of a lethal encounter.

Now, do DA revolvers fail every time? Nope, just as INTERNAL LOCKS do not fail...anywhere near as often as human frailty induces a malfunction. So if you're going to own and/or carry a revolver for self-defense there is no reason not to choose one with an internal lock other than popularity or supposition.

Statistically, the MOST RELIABLE repeating handgun one can choose is the SINGLE ACTION! It CANNOT suffer any of the operator induced failures mentioned above, and it can't shoot fast enough to get hot enough to cause BC-cylinder binding. A single-action is a guaranteed six shots, whereas a double-action is only guaranteed ONE shot - same as the autoloader.

This just slows down the timing so you can really hear it. Great tip for beginners until they know what they are listening/looking for.

+1 on Speer 135 gr +p short barrel Gold dots. Speed strips are nice because they are flat, I am used to speed loaders. Be Safe,

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I BACK OUR BLUE

If you read post # 15 you will see that I would have gotten a lock model it the no lock was not available. Both were so I chose the no lock. The lock setting it self was a smaller concern for me. I was more concerned about 1. counting on a lock to keep it "safe" and 2. if used if forgeting to unlock it prior to use.

Your list of failures is quite long but I would rather take my chances with a revolver than an auto. All day, every day and twice on Sunday.lol I haven't shot too many revolver or autos but have had stoppages with a few autos (quality ones) and none with a revolver.

The guns that I buy with the idea I might carry the back end value means nothing to me. But, the initial price really doesn't either.