|
|
01-13-2014, 02:07 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Santa Fe, New Mexico
Posts: 340
Likes: 85
Liked 25 Times in 16 Posts
|
|
Any reason not to rebarrel a 4-inch 686 with a 3-inch barrel?
I've been looking for a 3-inch 686-4 or -5 for some time with no luck. I guess I could find one on the auction sites, but I'd rather have the chance to handle what I buy before I buy it. And 686s have gotten kind of expensive.
That said, it only recently occurred to me that I could just rebarrel my 686-4 4-inch. I got the 3-inch barrel from S&W for just over $100 and was about to take it down to a local gunsmith when it occurred to me to inquire of the assembled forum wisdom if I am missing anything and should not mess with this gun.
Why do it? I find that a 4-inch L frame is muzzle heavy and unbalanced in my hands. i have no issues with 4-inch K frames and N frames, just L frames. My 2-½ inch 686 balances just fine, but I'd like the full-length ejector rod for IDPA reloads.
In any case, my -4 is not pristine; for some unknown reason, a prior owner sanded off the top strap bead blasting (but just on the barrel) and the area around the muzzle. The gun would look a lot nicer with the new barrel.
|
01-13-2014, 07:16 AM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Coastal Missouri
Posts: 1,898
Likes: 899
Liked 977 Times in 467 Posts
|
|
I think the 3" 686 is about as good as it gets, the balance is perfect and mine shoots like a dream. My first 686 was four inch and I loved it, but when it came time to replace it I was happy to find out a 3-incher was about to be offered. I think the 3" has a certain mystique to it.
So to answer your question - no. None at all.
|
01-13-2014, 07:49 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 6,183
Likes: 11,067
Liked 18,499 Times in 4,231 Posts
|
|
I say if you prefer the 3" barrel, go for it and enjoy your "new" gun.
I did the same thing with my 586. I had if re-barreled and then re-blued so the new barrel would match.
This link tells the story:
My 586 project is finally done! **WARNING - S&W Purists may want to skip this**
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
01-13-2014, 08:40 AM
|
|
US Veteran
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Posts: 4,482
Likes: 228
Liked 2,397 Times in 1,081 Posts
|
|
No reason not to, but there are a lot of potential fitting issues. I'd take it to a good revolver smith with the necessary equipment or send it to S&W to get it done.
|
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
|
|
01-13-2014, 11:11 AM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 2,000
Likes: 2,515
Liked 1,682 Times in 703 Posts
|
|
There is a lot of fitting unless you are incredibly lucky... If so play the lottery! If you have a smith with the correct fixtures to hold the frame, adjust the barrel shoulder & cylinder clearance then go for it.
__________________
NRA LIFE
Reserve Officer 9yrs
|
01-13-2014, 01:09 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Santa Fe, New Mexico
Posts: 340
Likes: 85
Liked 25 Times in 16 Posts
|
|
Thanks to everyone for your responses. I had not thought about fitting issues. When I talk to the gunsmith (who I don't know -- he's recommended by my "regular" gunsmith, who says he cannot do the work), do you have any specific questions I should ask him to make sure that he knows how to do it? (Aside from the standard, have you done this before?)
|
01-13-2014, 08:35 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 447
Likes: 15
Liked 660 Times in 188 Posts
|
|
I wanted the same from a 681. I feel the full lug makes it way to front heavy. I ended up chopping and crowning the barrel, reprofiling the shroud, and having a dovetail cut for the front sight. I like it so much that I'm doing a similar 581 project right now.
The 681 was cut to 3" and roundbutted. The 581 is going to be 3.5" and I think I'll retain the square butt on this one.
A plus to this is that I will now have tritium sights on both revolvers, and costs were kept low by doing most of the work myself.
|
01-13-2014, 08:41 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: metro Phoenix
Posts: 3,196
Likes: 16,406
Liked 3,964 Times in 1,605 Posts
|
|
Go for it, Jeff! I had a 3 put on a 4-inch Model 64 with factory round butt, and haven't regretted it once. TJ's Gunsmithing up here in CO did it for a very reasonable price.
Is your 686 round-butt or square? If it's square, do you intend to mod the grip as well?
Looking forward to pictures....
|
01-13-2014, 09:22 PM
|
US Veteran
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: God's country, GA
Posts: 1,605
Likes: 427
Liked 990 Times in 445 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by 80sgyrene
The 581 is going to be 3.5" and I think I'll retain the square butt on this one.
|
Hey... I like the sound of that. Please post some pics once it is complete.
__________________
Proud anachronism
|
01-13-2014, 09:40 PM
|
SWCA Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 7,913
Likes: 3,516
Liked 6,738 Times in 2,623 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffrey
I've been looking for a 3-inch 686-4 or -5 for some time with no luck. I guess I could find one on the auction sites, but I'd rather have the chance to handle what I buy before I buy it. And 686s have gotten kind of expensive.
That said, it only recently occurred to me that I could just rebarrel my 686-4 4-inch. I got the 3-inch barrel from S&W for just over $100 and was about to take it down to a local gunsmith when it occurred to me to inquire of the assembled forum wisdom if I am missing anything and should not mess with this gun.
Why do it? I find that a 4-inch L frame is muzzle heavy and unbalanced in my hands. i have no issues with 4-inch K frames and N frames, just L frames. My 2-½ inch 686 balances just fine, but I'd like the full-length ejector rod for IDPA reloads.
In any case, my -4 is not pristine; for some unknown reason, a prior owner sanded off the top strap bead blasting (but just on the barrel) and the area around the muzzle. The gun would look a lot nicer with the new barrel.
|
The 3 inch K or L is a great choice IF the revolver has a round butt. If not, I would say leave it be. I cannot recall if your subject revolver, the 686-4, is standard with a round butt, but if it is, then IF DONE PROPERLY, it makes a nice package.
Installing a new barrel is NOT, however, a simple matter, and before you turn it over to the local guy, best make sure he is up to the task. There are threads on here describing the whole unpleasant process. I trust no one to rebarrel an S&W other than the factory.
|
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
|
|
01-13-2014, 10:46 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: MA
Posts: 287
Likes: 87
Liked 173 Times in 79 Posts
|
|
Do it, I bought a mint 686-4 (which is supposed to be the most desirable revision) 6" that had been Mag-na-ported for dirt cheap. Dropped it off at my gunsmith with a 4" barrel and he swapped the barrel, cut the cylinder for moon clips and tuned the action. It is now my favorite revolver, and shoots like a laser.
I don't think there is any meaningful collectors value in the near future in modern S&W revolvers, so why not build what you want.
Chris
|
01-13-2014, 11:49 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Demon-class planet
Posts: 7,403
Likes: 29,169
Liked 8,461 Times in 3,772 Posts
|
|
Since you already bought a 3" bbl, I guess you're committed. You said the original 4" had some cosmetic issues... I might have traded the 4" gun in for a 3". My 3" bbl TALO is a treat!
|
01-14-2014, 07:01 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 4,131
Likes: 126
Liked 535 Times in 431 Posts
|
|
Go for it and let us know it comes out, with pics please.
|
01-14-2014, 08:53 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 447
Likes: 15
Liked 660 Times in 188 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by nawilson
Hey... I like the sound of that. Please post some pics once it is complete.
|
Still have to get the dovetail cut. Haven't decided on shoes yet either.....
and here's the 681 all done...
|
The Following 4 Users Like Post:
|
|
|
Posting Rules
|
|
|
|
|